I printed and painted a bust for each Cenobite and to start with the main man.

I'll preface this by saying I'm a professional painter who owns maybe 700+ paints from about 12 different manufacturers!

My thoughts so far:

- The consistency is really nice and feels quite novel to use, the opacity even when thinned further is whacky and kind of feels like learning to glaze again because normal glaze consistency paint has too much opacity and can just completely eradicate any tonal work you've just done rather than tint/filter it.

- I would advise caution with your brush care, I noticed a lot of leeching into the base of the head because youre spending longer amounts of time with very thin workable paint on your brush - I noticed a lot more debris needing removed after prolonged use with my brain dialled into how my paint normally behaves.

- Painting details like eyes/freehanding/tattoos is really nice when the paint wants to get off your brush as much as this paint does - I didnt feel the same time pressure to get the brush on to the model before my thinner small amount of paint dried.

- For me the biggest selling point is simply expediting basecoats on things like display level flesh etc. Perhaps gone are the days of 9 layers of glaze consistency fleshtone to get to the point of adding tonal variance etc when you can achieve the same opacity with two thin layers of this.

I feel like OSL with fluorescents mattes out the surrounding areas. However, a thin contrast of a darker colour on surrounding metallics looks more realistic (though more tedious)

So, can contrasts be drybrushed? So, drybrushing the contrast away from the light source on to the metallics?

Or would thinning down an ink be more ideal? As they are more glossy

Ive been atempting to paint these plagupack Skaven with a limited pallete, just one brush, only layers and glazeing. And I can literally feel my painting skills levelling up with each one! I can honestly say that they are the first minis I can look at and say 'wow I actually painted that!'.

It's definitely not gonna win anything, but at least I can say I painted something for golden demon!

After I started to paint these guys, I decided they needed a proper display and not just a base each, so this is what I ended up with.

The gnomes were a blast to paint, even though they're tiny. The glowing smoke was quite challenging, but I feel like I got a decent result.

The base is 15x15 cm XPS foam. I rough cut the tracks and puddles and covered everything in various terrain pastes.

Gnomes from Warp Miniatures.

Hello everyone, as I said this is my first time painting minis ever.

(The mimic and skeleton piles are FDM printed)

The result doesn’t look that bad but it is far from perfect, and I don’t know what could be off.
I was wondering what I should focus on to improve my next minis.

No need to pull punches, I’m here to improve and would appreciate any feedbacks !

Thanks.

Ps: thanks to the guy that pointed out I hadn’t attached any pictures the first time…

Sculpted by Raffa Pica some years ago as part of a bust, I converted him slightly by adding a tiny branch to his head.

I am more of a fantasy guy but this was quite fun.

The first one is the latest, and the latter was my first attempt. I think I over did it with the tones but a bit proud nonetheless.

I really enjoyed replicating this stunning piece of artwork in miniture form. I enjoyed the moonlit style if the piece and the idea of the black outline on the bat wing motifs.

Next project is to convert Aethon Shann into the 8th legion.

Had to add my signature purple lightning instead though.

And yes I found my lazy Susan.

This fellow brought a gun to a sword fight. Thoughts are always welcome and appreciated. Next up in this hit series is te sergeant..

Hi everyone

I've been painting armies for the last year - but I think I've been stuck at tabletop/tabletop plus.

I think I'm ready to make the leap from army painting and try to push myself to display level.

I've attached some pictures of my w.i.p Norn (just got the carapace, claws and base left to do).

I've spent hours on the red skin, trying to subtly glaze highlights volumetrically, going up to adding an icy yellow into the red on the tips.

Is it just me, or does it still look flat/mid tone?

Do I just keep pushing the highlights higher? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Thanks so much for any feedback.

Hey everyone! I started painting minis a few months ago and I'm really enjoying the hobby. Just finished this Shrine Anchorite and tried focusing on the metallic textures, grimdark weathering, and blood effects.

Would really appreciate any feedback or tips on how to improve contrast, highlights, or overall technique. Thanks in advance!

So I am still fairly new to painting miniatures, mostly DnD type fantasy miniatures. Some buddies of mine have recommended I start using a medium when painting. The main purpose of this post is really to ask how and why.

How do use a medium? What’s their actual purpose? Do I need different mediums? Are the certain Citadel ones better or Army Painter?

And I guess the why is kinda wrapped up in the above questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

One bonus question: Army Painter Speed Paints good for contrast painting, yay or nay? Again, something else ive been told to look into

Hi everyone! How are you doing?

On April 3, 2026, I bought a 70mm metal miniature of Vlad Tepes (Vlad III Draculea). I did some research on this piece and discovered that it was produced by a German company called Poste Militaire, which specialized in metal miniatures of historical figures.

The company released its own Vlad III kit titled “Vlad the Impaler Dracula, Warlord of Wallachia 1460” (reference KD-4, sculpted by Keith Durham).

The kit included the miniature, a battlefield-style base, and three impalement stakes, all made of white metal. The miniature came unassembled and unpainted, ready for assembly and painting.

In my case, when I found it, the miniature was already assembled and glued to its base, but it was missing the small feather that originally adorned its hat.

I haven't been able to find the exact release date of this miniature. However, I've come across several photos online showing painted examples, as well as others showing the miniature fresh out of its packaging. These photos were apparently posted over the years, with some seemingly dating from 2008, 2010, and 2011.

From what I've gathered, Poste Militaire was founded by sculptor Ray Lamb in the 1980s, so I suspect the Vlad Tepes miniature was produced and released in the late 1990s and/or sometime during the 2000s, although I can't say for certain.

I bought this miniature at a small shop inside a shopping arcade, and I was very lucky to find it, since getting one here in Argentina is extremely difficult — I'd even say almost impossible! Nowadays, it seems that the only way to find one is through online marketplaces or online stores.

Over time, I've made a few touch-ups and restored or added some missing details, while keeping the original paint scheme as much as possible.

I'm really happy to have found this piece, especially considering how difficult it is to find one nowadays. What do you think?

This one feels like an improvement pretty proud of this one 😅😅. First time trying the power sword without metallic paints

Seems a little too slap choppy. Gonna dry brush some metal and rust up the chains. Then washes on the plates

I'm using acrylic paints on a 32mm tin miniature. I'm trying to convey the effect that the figure is emanating his own light and/or ghost phasing through the surrounding terrain.

Maulerfiend WIP. This is approaching my favorite model I've painted besides Angron.

I am going to attempt gore effects on the meaty part of the head between its mouth and the stump. Any tips? I know what to use but I've never done it before.

Edit:: Yall are great. I played around with it some more and it was definitely too wet. Putting the lid on it just made it worse. I found that if there is any excess water in the tray it is too wet. In the first picture, there was a small bead of water around the bottom. I had wet the paper on top then patted dry with paper towel. That was still too much water. I tried another paper on a wet-but-not-dripping sponge, and was careful not to get any water on the top. Worked like a charm this time. I’m still going to buy parchment paper. Moral of the story is THANK YOU 😊🫡

I have the regular Army Painter palette and use the provided paper. I haven’t been to the store to buy parchment paper yet. I’ve been having issues where the paint is sucking up too much water. The paint thins out and spreads, then the water is sucked back up by the sponge and the thinned out areas dry out.

This is a fresh brand new sponge and brand new paper. I dried any standing drops off the paper before putting paint down. I thinned the darker green a bit and painted for a bit. The lighter green I only put a drop of stabilizer in, and it was too thick. I decided to take a break, put the lid on, and this is how much it spread in 2 hours. All the areas it spread to are semi dry, but could be mixed back with extra moisture.

Is it the paper doing this? I see YouTube videos where the water beads up on the paper but mine has never ever done that. It always spreads out flat like this.

Before I spend any more money, someone please tell me what is going wrong here 😭

Finally finished Urak Tarr riding his faithful bull Toby.
Hope you like them.

Hi everyone!

I’m new to miniature painting and have recently started painting Warhammer 40K minis. I’m looking for recommendations for good quality sable brushes. I’ve heard that sable brushes are some of the best options for miniature painting.

I’d like to start with either a single size 1 brush or an affordable set of 2–3 brushes to try out before investing too much.

I’d love to hear which brands you recommend, and what brushes you’ve had the best experiences with.