I’m on my third G.Skill kit in this PC, and before I file another RMA I want to make sure the computer isn't killing the RAM.

1. Has anyone had their PC kill RAM? Any idea what caused it?
2. Is there anything else I should be testing? The PSU is budget and 6 years old so I wonder about that.
3. Has anyone else had repeated failures with this or a similar kit?

Specs (everything bought in 2020 except the RAM)

• Ryzen 5 3600
• Gigabyte B450 AORUS PRO WIFI
• Sapphire Pulse RX 5700 XT
• Thermaltake Smart BX1 550W Bronze
• Windows 11 Home
• RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V F4-3600C16D-32GVKC (2x16GB 3600 CL16, 1.35V), upgraded in 2025

Kit 1 (bought 2025): Memory crashes started early this year. In July, memtest86 found one bad stick, failing at stock 2133 with XMP off. RMA’d.

Kit 2 (label date July 2026): Crashing within about two weeks (0x1A MEMORY_MANAGEMENT). One stick failed memtest on the same bits in two different slots, and the other stick had a few errors too. RMA’d.

Kit 3 (label date Aug 2026): Passed 4 full memtest passes when it arrived. About a week later it started failing (note: I was using the computer more heavily than normal during this period). It kept getting worse until Chrome tabs were crashing constantly and I was getting crash screens about memory.

In memtest, the failing bits are different between kits.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

USB License Key (security dongle) to unlock the software is failing and it is an old program the company no longer supports. I'm worried the flash drive will fail and that will stop my access to the program. It must ve plugged in to run and simply copying the files to a new drive doesn't work. Not sure what to do, any advice? I'd be willing to send it to a reputable copying to get a copy that runs the software.

This is in fact a pc issue I believe, so I just found a random second monitor I could use, tried finding a second hdmi port on my motherboard and then I randomly found an unused hdmi port that still have the cover inside and that port is not working. I know in fact both of the hdmi cables work because I’ve tested them and I believe the problem is the pc’s second hdmi port just doesn’t work because both cables I tried plugging in there said the display has no signal or whatever. And when I go to Display, detect there’s absolutely nothing also, I have a I5-9400F cpu btw but it should still work with that I believe.
What is the fix to this, is there a certain cable I can buy that I can plug to a regular plug in pc that is a hdmi cable at the other end, would that work? Because I tried everything and the second port just won’t and doesn’t work!

Title might be wrong, but..

I want to share a folder from a computer. I have shared the folder, but when trying to access the folder from another computer it asks for credentials. I have tried every credential i can think of:
My name, the 5 letter user, my microsoft account, guest, admin. You name it.

File sharing is on for both private and public networks, CIF/Samba is installed/on, network discovery is on. I have tried EVERYTHING.

I cant get past the credentials log on. What to do? What ARE the credentials?

Hi guys, so for the past 2 days I've been getting random screen blackouts and crashes while playing a game on my PC. The PC restarts itself and I get the display on. Things I've done so far:

1. Ran OCCT Stability Test - No GPU errors
2. DDU Reinstall of Driver 617.14

There is no explanation for the blackscreen crash and it happens at random times. The GPU Temps and everything is normal. Can anyone pls help out?

Bought a desktop PC last year or so, to which it has not moved from that spot in my house since then. I went digging around through some settings tonight and found the Known Networks list, which contained a variety of networks; My home network, my old home network, a network from a friends house who I haven't been to in years, and a seemingly random one which I've chalked up to most likely be a school internet connection.

Are the Known Networks saved to my Microsoft account and brought from PC to PC? I'm not sure how else these networks could've ended up on there otherwise, but I can't find anything from Microsoft themselves that may indicate this is the case.

My specs are:

• Motherboard: ASRock B550M
• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D
• GPU: 9070 XT Taichi (driver 26.9.2)
• Memory: 48GB DDR4 @ 3200MHz
• Disk: 2TB 980 Pro

I’ve had everything except my motherboard and GPU for a few years now. The constant issue I’m facing is stuttering while gaming. Games like Marvel Rivals, CS2, and War Dogs are the main ones, along with a few others. I play Marvel Rivals on the lowest settings with FSR 4 enabled (I know the game isn’t well optimized), while the other two are maxed out graphically.

My biggest issue is a random stutter that appears in almost every multiplayer game. Single-player games like Kingdom Hearts, Stellar Blade, and Wukong run perfectly without any issues, but as soon as I switch to a multiplayer game, my system stutters its not a constant issue that makes it unplayable but it will happen every few min and in competitive games it blows.

I’ve wiped Windows and reinstalled the OS twice. I also switched to Linux Mint for a while because I heard AMD cards perform better there, but I’m still experiencing the same issue. I’ve also swapped out my ram and tried different allocations (8GB, 16GB, and 32GB setups) thinking because I'm using all 4 slots it could be a slight issue but still the same problem no matter what i change.

The issue didn’t seem to start until I got my 9070 XT. I was previously using a 3070. I bought the 9070 XT brand new from microcenter a few months back, but the stuttering only started recently, about a month ago.

Does anyone have any tips or knowledge on why this could be happening? Thanks in advance.

I appreciate any guidance. So basically my sister is a special needs adult and lives with my mom. She loves typing things and watching YouTube. My mom also watches my sister’s kids every day. Those kids broke my sister’s old computer and they have a tendency to bully my sister and run off with things like her iPad. I got my sister a new laptop, a refurbished thinkpad that has the fingerprint scanner.

Right now my ideas for security are to set up the fingerprint scanner and have it auto log out if inactive for one minute. I might also get her a desk lock so the laptop can’t be run off with.

Does anyone have any other ideas? I’m not very tech savvy. Is there something like a program that can lock the computer if the webcam sees a face that isn’t my sister? Maybe outlandish. Or just anything I’m not thinking of that could address this? Because what will happen is they get her to put her finger on the scanner and then just take control to play whatever game they want to. My mom has little control over the kids, I mean she has control but it gets exhausting for her and she kind of gives up.

Appreciate any guidance!

Hi all,

our MSP has recently onboarded a new client who has Avast Business Security installed on a number of devices.

We are looking to remove this however it seems that each instance will require a safe mode cleanup to remove this.

Unfortunately all of these devices are with remote workers and it will take a large amount of time to remote onto these and run the users through this. We would ideally like to try and remove this without safe mode.

If anyone has had a similar issue or any ideas that would be greatly appreciated.

All devices are Windows workstations.

I bought a new laptop of Dell and in it's specifications it said that I'll get MS office home 2024+ microsoft 365 for 1 year but now when I opening my excel or word it's not letting me create any document and the product says unlicensed product.

Can anyone please help me.

Hello! So, I was playing a game with my friends when suddenly i hear a click, and everything went silent. The game, discord, I couldn’t hear anything.

I contacted microsoft support, and they updated all my drivers and yet.. still no audio. They said what I could do is contact the manufacturer of my pc and ask them to update the drivers on the website lmfao.

I don’t know what to do. I’ve updated what I can, I’ve restarted my PC. I’m at a loss of what I can do to fix the issue.

I have a prebuilt Omen Obelisk, if that helps at all. Feel free to ask me questions, feel free to help me out. I could really use my pc rn.

I was trying to reinstall Windows, deleted all partitions, let setup complete, and now when I try to boot any device, nothing happens at the bios screen.

For example, here's a video: https://youtu.be/U7Zruhw7cY4

I have disabled secure boot, but no idea how to proceed since I can't even boot from a USB anymore.

not sure where to ask so i'm gonna crosspost a little bit. anyway essentially title. i'm using an iphone SE running iOS 26.1 with a t-mobile plan. two days ago, my phone died and when i charged it again it wouldn't connect to my cellular data. i did all the troubleshooting i could find (powercycle, cycling airplane mode, switching sources) but nothing let me connect. i went to t-mobile today and (to my best understanding) the associate tried to set up an eSIM and then replaced my physical SIM. they told me i could leave and that the eSIM would cancel and the new SIM card would kick in. as of writing, i left the store around 3-4 hours ago, and my settings show i have two SIMs: one reading "on" but providing no signal, and one reading "activating..." and also providing no signal. the top-left signal display shows two bands with no connection and SOS only.

can i do something to restore my signal/activate my sim?

I've recently had my wifi router upgraded (Xfinity) and am no longer able to use certain games (like online MMORPG games and also some of my online schooling) or apps without it eventually kicking me off and saying I'm no longer online. I've tried to forget my password and re enter, I reset and power washed my Chromebook and router.. I've factory reset the Chromebook as well. Went into the settings and also tried to change the DNS or whatever it was called and also didn't work. I feel like I've tried everything. Went on Xfinitys app and tried changing the advanced security.. nothing. My YouTube wouldn't even work there for a hot minute. I just recently bought this Chromebook no more than 6 months ago. Anyone think they can help me out? 🥹

I hate having to completely change my phone every few years. How much longer will it be safe to use Android 15 before you need to upgrade?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a new Acer Predator Triton Neo 16, and after updating Windows (Windows 11 Pro) I noticed a blue line along the very bottom of the screen that won’t go away.

I’ve tried restarting the laptop, but the line is still there. It appeared after the Windows update, so I’m not sure whether it’s a software issue, a graphics driver problem, or something related to the display itself.

Has anyone experienced something similar with this laptop or after a Windows update? Does anyone know how I can fix it?

Since the laptop is brand new, I’m concerned that it might be a hardware issue.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

My laptop is currently having what I believe to be a software problem. It boots up no problem and goes all the way to my desktop as it should. But once I get to the desktop everything freezes.

The laptop then crashes showing a black screen saying “your device ran into an issue and needs to restart” with the stop code “INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE (0x7B)”

When it first started crashing I was able to get in and work for a few minutes but now it freezes as soon as I sign in.

I’m assuming it has to do with a corrupt windows file or a communication error between windows and my laptop but I’m unsure.

What is the best way to solve this issue as a broke college student who can’t afford a new laptop or an expensive fix but relies heavily on laptops.

I am not a big tech guy either so please I need help!

My HP Pavilion laptop (had since 2022) has recently been disconnecting from my bluetooth keyboard quite a lot. It usually works again if I wait for a while or restart the PC.

Similar to an issue I sometimes have with it disconnecting from Wi-Fi, the button for bluetooth has completely disappeared, and from looking at the 'Device Manager' page, it doesn't even seem to have a bluetooth driver anymore.

Anyone know how to fix this?

I had a pair of QCY-T13 earbuds but recently lost the case it came in along with the right earbud, leaving me with only the left earbud, but i also have laying around another pair of QCY-T13 missing the left earbud, the only difference is that it is white, so im left with a white case with a black left earbud and a white right earbud, any chance i could pair these together? They currently have 2 distinct bluetooth signals despite the two of them having the same name

System

Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H WIFI (Rev 1.3)

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600G, GPU: RTX 5060

RAM: 4x 8GB XPG Gammix D30 DDR4-3200 (same model and brand, all four)

BIOS: updated to F70c (latest)

Problem

I had 2x8GB working and added 2 more identical sticks. With all 4 installed, only 2 sticks were detected. Each stick works alone, in pairs, and in any 3-stick setup. All four slots work on their own.

What I tried

Reseated the sticks and cleared CMOS (battery removed)

Checked slot layout: Channel A is DDR4_2/4, Channel B is DDR4_1/3

Updated BIOS to F70c with Q-Flash

XMP off and memory on Auto (2667 MHz, 1.20V): still only 2 sticks

Set the multiplier manually to 21.33 (2133 MHz) and DRAM voltage to 1.35V

Current situation

CPU-Z shows 32GB with 8GB in all 4 slots. Task Manager still says "Slots used: 2 of 4", which seems inconsistent. I'm at 2133 MHz / 1.35V now.

I have a Samsung Galaxy S20 5G that's worked fine for years even in spite of many cracks and wear. However, since yesterday night the screen display has been constantly shaking and overlaying on top of itself, as well as constantly flashing. All the phone's functions appear to still be working, including the touchscreen, but it's just impossible to see what I'm doing. Is this fixable, or do I need to get a new phone?

I have hp victus ,rtx 4050 Intel i7, windows 11 , when I open search bar , the whole thing goes blank, theres nothing completely blank

so I was playing a game and randomly the panel to switch between hdmi 1 2 3 and display port and so I accidentally hit display port and now it says cable won't connect I have a benq zowie monitor and I tried unplugging the cables and still dont work it says its on hdmi 2 any fixes?

(apologies for any confusing stuff, computers are not my thing and I really don't know what I'm doing 😭) I have a mac book air on Sequoia 15.6.1. I am trying to clean up my desktop but one of my apps won't delete or move. If I try to move it to the trash, it tells me it can't complete the action because the app "isn't downloaded" even though I can open and use the app just fine. It also won't let me move it elsewhere from the desktop or just hide it in my applications folder. When I click "show contents" the contents folder says "error" and if I click into it all of the sub-folders say "waiting to update." I tried re-downloading the app from the app store to update it, but I don't think that did anything. How do I delete the app? Or at least hide it so it's not on my main screen?

I've had this device for around 3 years and I've been having quite some problems for a while (I am also unsure whether the post flair is correct, this could either be a software or hardware issue). For the wider context, the problem I've been facing for a while is that on each startup, the computer would get into an auto-repair loop and eventually it would prompt me with BitLocker key input and afterwards it would show that the problem couldn't be repaired - the problem being with the SrtTrail.txt file at D:\Windows\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt and afterwards showing me advanced start-up options. The glaring issue is that I don't have system files at the drive D but of course drive C, so it was weird that it was looking for them there. From what I've found this is a relatively common issue, but none of the suggested solutions I've found seemed to helped.

Before the eventual factory reset, I've tried:

- uninstalling Windows updates; at one point it wouldn't even let me as it ran into a problem during the process each time

- solving it through command prompt window through advanced start-up; I can't say what exactly I was doing, as I didn't get far anyways, but I was following this video; I couldn't proceed through the second line of code as it could not find the path at all

Now for a while I ignored this issue, foolishly, as after the whole loop when it put me into advanced start-up options it allowed me to then boot up the computer as normal without any other issues afterwards. But, surprise surprise, last week the problem got worse. I was using the computer in-class (on battery) and it suddenly rebooted - everything went black, the usual start-up screens appeared and then it normally turned on. I didn't think much of it at first, because this type of reboot while on battery power was relatively normal basically since day one (another problem I foolishly ignored). But then it happened twice more and I knew something was up. I turned the computer off completely and waited until I get home. When I got home and plugged the computer in, the problem persisted. Whenever the computer booted, within like 5 minutes it would automatically reboot. It did this whenever I was on chrome, browsed computer files or just left it idle. The only time it didn't reboot was when playing games, I could have a 2 hour (or longer) session of Total Warhammer 3 with no issues at all, but within 5 minute of opening a web browser or closing the game, the computer would reboot.

So this weekend I finally decided to do a factory reset. However, the reset itself did not go smoothly:

- first time around I only did a reset which leaves the files intact and only uninstalls apps; this didn't do anything at all and when it booted after the reset, everything was the same (with the problem persisting)

- then I did a full reset including apps as well. The first time it did not work out fine, when windows was installing, the computer started a reset loop which made the installation impossible, so I had to hard reboot it into advanced start-up and initiate a second factory reset

- the second reset concluded without an issues

The reset fixed the problem of frequent reboots, however many are still left:

- the computer still starts into a brief auto-repair loop, however it seems to work this issue out and doesn't prompt me with BitLocker key afterwards, nor does it show advanced start-up options

- while the computer now doesn't reboot every 5-ish minutes while on chrome, it still reboots while idle for like 30 minutes (which is the same time I have for putting the device to sleep while idle); when it reboots, it shows the screen saying something along the lines of "the device wasn't able to boot properly" and prompts me with advanced start-up options

- it doesn't turn off, instead it instantly reboots into the sign-in screen, with the only way to turn it off being through the power button

- the taskbar doesn't show things on the right, i.e. the time and date, badges, apps running on the background etc.

- when I cycle the modes for my fans (i.e. quiet, performance, turbo) it doesn't show what mode it is on

I am at my wits end. I don't know what else to do outside of another factory reset and I can't afford a new computer right now. Could it be an SSD issue? Or perhaps a motherboard problem? I do clean the computer myself using compressed air and it took like two cleanings before I found out you shouldn't let the fans spin. But that was a while ago and I figure the problems would have arisen earlier.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions.

Here are my specs:

OS Name Microsoft: Windows 11 Home

Version: 10.0.26100 Build 26100.1

System Model: ASUS TUF Gaming A15 FA506NC_FA506NC

Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 7535HS with Radeon Graphics, 3301 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s)

Installed RAM: 32 GB