There’s no compartment to take something out and dump it, just a bunch of water at the bottom of it and a little thing that water comes out of but it’s very slow, It’s an insignia portable ac.

He is old school. But happens to be dealing with this issue. He lives in Miami FL. Bought this beautiful home but for in his Master bedroom he has this issue of condensation in his vent in his room. Would love some insight from any of you here that can help troubleshoot this. Thx in advanced

Title: AC cooling entire house except my bedroom — no air coming from vent
My AC was working perfectly fine all last week. My bedroom was getting as cold as 62°F, but starting yesterday, it suddenly stopped cooling properly.
The living room and kitchen are still cooling normally, and the thermostat reads 69°F, but my bedroom feels closer to 75°F.
I checked my bedroom’s ceiling vent while the AC was running, and I can’t feel any air coming out. I even tried holding a piece of paper near the vent to check the airflow.
Could this be a disconnected duct, a damper issue, or something else? I’m trying to figure out what might be wrong and approximately how much it would cost to repair before calling an HVAC technician.
Any advice would be appreciated!

Just had to put my LG AC back in the window due to a late warm spell, and it’s making this weird intermittent rattle when the compressor is on. It’s relatively quiet, but in the dead of night, it’s driving me nuts. Any idea what this might be? I’ve tried pressing on various parts of the unit, checked the filter, checked the window sashes…nothing changes it, so I can only assume it’s coming from inside the unit. Help?

There is water dripping from underneath the unit(multiple spots) into the emergency drain pan. Im guessing the coils need to be cleaned inside the unit? If not, what is causing this? Any link to a youtube DIY video would be greatly appreciated.

This is a replacement 80,000 btu Mr. Heater, with 4 inch metal pipe coming off the back. Previous heater had 8 inch pipe coming off it. Is it okay to run the new 4 inch straight into a cap on the 8 inch? The total length of the 8 inch pipe is about 4 feet from the roof to the end below the ceiling

Tech came out today for the furnace check and mine is 10 years old and he said the heat exchange has just started to crack. It's a Trane xv80 series. My house is 1700 square feet and it has worked great so far. I know i have to replace or fix it immediately. He quoted $4400 to fix or $7700 for a Daikin unit or $5600 for a Goodman. I live in Atlanta which has mild winters so I think i only need a 80% AFUE. I'm going to get a 2nd opinion but are those prices way high or average now? I think it would most likely be best just to replace the unit since it's 10 years old? What would y'all recommend for a new unit? If it helps my unit is in the attic which is pretty much just a crawl space where I can store a few things.

Currently building a new house, and the floors on the first floor are extremely squeaky. The floors on the second floor are quiet. I think our metal ducts in the basement are hung tight and are rubbing against the wood when we walk…anyone have any thoughts?

Hi, I’ve received a quote of £8,950 for four Daikin Perfera 2.0 kW units across four bedrooms, connected to a single multi-split outdoor unit. I’m based in Berkshire and just wanted to get your opinion on whether the price seems reasonable for this setup?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice regarding my gas furnace and would appreciate a second opinion from experienced HVAC technicians.

During my annual maintenance, the technician used a borescope and showed me what he said was a crack in the heat exchanger. Based on his findings, he shut the furnace off, stating that it was unsafe to operate.

I have attached the photos he shared with me. Could anyone experienced with furnace inspections please take a look and let me know whether the images clearly show a crack in the heat exchanger, or whether it could be a seam, discoloration, corrosion, or something else?

I also had another technician inspect the furnace, but he did not have a borescope available that day. He mentioned observing draft/air-pressure readings but was unable to visually confirm the suspected crack.

The heat exchanger is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, but I’ve been quoted approximately $3,000–$4,000 in labor alone to replace it. I’m also being quoted for a complete furnace replacement.

Before making such an expensive decision, I would like to understand:

1. Do these photos provide convincing evidence of an actual crack?
2. Is there a reliable way for another qualified technician to confirm the diagnosis?
3. Is replacing the heat exchanger alone worth considering at that labor cost, or would a complete replacement generally make more sense?

I understand that photos alone may not be enough to make a definitive determination, and I’m not looking to operate an unsafe furnace. I would simply appreciate professional opinions on what is visible in the images and what additional inspection might be appropriate.

Thank you for your help!

I have a branch that is 12x8 sq duct, now I want to supply it from underneath with an 20x8 duct that runs perpendicular. My thoughts were to just stack them on top of each other with a hole cut out.

Is that too much turbulence? How would you ordinarily connect them?

It's for a ducted heat pump.

It’s a 3-year-old unit with no issues, but I was thinking about pouring some vinegar down the line. First, is what I’m seeing normal? Second, where exactly should I pour the vinegar?

I have an American Standard 2 ton inverter system controlled by an acculink 1050 thermostat. Currently set at 410 CFM / ton. I have an in-line dehumidifier (dead, getting replaced) that is controlled by a separate humidistat.

I know the 1050 can control the dehu, but I would like advice on whether this is the best way to go. The dehu (Trane 90 pint) has decent CFM (320 CFM at 0 static pressure) so it doesn't absolutely need the main fan to disperse air. Also the acculink won't run the dehu at all unless the last call was for cooling. The house is unoccupied a lot so humidity can build up on cool, wet winter days.

Any thoughts?

If your business had the perfect year, what would be different from today? More jobs, better jobs, less stress, bigger team? Curious what owners are aiming for.

I’m working on a Payne 80 that’s not making any sense. The igniter lights, gas valve clicks and opens. The burners light then fizzle out. However, as you can see in the video, it’s not any sensor as it’s consistently sending 24+ volts to the gas valve as the pressure drops. I changed the gas valve thinking that was it but it’s still having issues. Inlet pressure is high (12.9) and outlet (3.27) is a bit low but both are within the tolerance. It seems like a gas pressure issue but it just doesn’t make any sense. Any advice is appreciated.

It's time for our seasonal maintenance on our HVAC and the company we have been using recently got bought out. They sent out this kid who looks like he should be in home room right now but at first I'm not too concerned.

Then he opens the HVAC closet and yells "Ain't no frickin way dude!". We ask if everything's okay and he doesn't answer but a few minutes later it sounds like he's decided to deconstruct my home and says "what the heck is that?!". Uhh... You'd hopefully know better than I would... I am absolutely petrified and glad it's supposed to be cool tomorrow in case this child can't figure out how to put this thing back together. No questions, just amused/ terrified.

I had an hvac guy come out and check out my system. I took a picture of the readings. He was saying I was under a lb low of refrigerant and that it would be 300 dollars to top it off. I didn’t have him top it off because it seemed like he was trying to sell me the top off. Was the guy being honest or just trying to make a few extra bucks?

I have a steam radiator system, powered by oil. My oil tank is rusting on the bottom and it is definitely time to replace the tank. My Smith cast iron boiler is about 14 years old, and my Bock 50 gal hot water heater is about 11 years old.

I already have gas lines running into my home for stove, fireplace, and dryer - since the tank needs to be replaced anyway, is it worth just switching to gas at this point rather than replacing the tank? The cost to replace the whole system (with permits, new Burnham IN6 steam boiler, Bradford 50 gal hot water heater, chimney flue, etc) is $19k.

By the way, I do have 4 Fujitsu mini splits in my house, which offer both AC and heat. However, I don't know how efficient they are when the temperature gets really cold and there's not enough of them to use them as primary heat source.

Good afternoon!

I’ve bought a used home, and the ac does not appear to engage the blower motor. I’ve been looking for a low voltage fuse, but been unable to locate.

Any advice as to why it’s giving me a error of “no power”

My hvac guy says my heat exchanger is cracked, I don’t believe him. Is he trying to scam me

I wanted to have a spare capacitor ready for a Trane air conditioner. The label shows 45+5 uF +10/-5%. I see a lot of capacitors online with +/-5% or +/-6%.

How important is the +10% and can can I get by with +5%?

We have a gas pack unit that is about 20 years old. Our regular HVAC company came by for the routine fall maintenance and the tech said this rusting meant the gas flame could no longer be contained, so he turned the gas off and recommended we replace the unit. As far as I know he didn't test the flame.

We have a home warranty (scam, I know) that I contact to see if they would cover any of the cost. The tech that came out said they don't service those kinds of units (always the case), but in his opinion the unit is fine. That the coils are all intact and that's what matters. That's such a different story than what I was expecting that I am questioning things now.

We'll end up getting a third opinion in a few days by default as the warranty company theoretically sends out a qualified tech to look at it seriously.

And so I turn to the internet for random opinions.

My AC died this year: the evaporator coil inside and the compressor outside.

My question is if it makes sense to just replace the compressor/coil or if I should also replace the furnace.

The furnace is 14 years old and according to my hvac guy in very good shape. But it's still older.

Obviously theres a higher cost to replacing the entire system (though with potential bundled savings) but if I just replace the AC/coil will I run into any issues when the furnace dies down the road?

Probably a long shot, but does anyone have a clear picture of the top of the Reme HALO LED driver PCB? After 2 years of service, stopped working. When I opened it up, saw two blown IC's (U3 and U4). Unfortunately due to the damage I can't tell what they are and was hoping someone might have a clear image or know the part/model #'s for the ICs if my warranty attempt doesn't come through.

Hi everyone,
I have a Modine Hot Dawg 45,000 BTU heater that’s making a rattling noise on start up that wasn’t there last year.
There were some issues with the initial installation, so I’m following up with the installer to have it inspected and make sure everything was done correctly. Based on the sound, I’m wondering whether there’s an issue with the inducer fan or its blade, but I’m not sure.
Has anyone had a similar rattling noise with their Hot Dawg? What ended up causing it, and is there anything specific I should ask the technician to check?
Thanks for any help!