Bought single family house with detached garage and 200A service, nat gas service disconnected. Replaced electric furnace with nat gas in 2018. Noticed that Nicor gas bill is a minimum of about $24 each month even though no gas is used during summer.

Recently bought an EV and considering adding another electrical drop with another meter just for the garage. The garage has a single 120Vac feed on a 20A breaker that also feeds some parts of the house. The car charges at a max 48A at 240Vac.

The thi g was working fine it only had a busted pull chain on the light. When i tookoff the cover to expose the wires there was a blue wire that i assume i pulled out of its home because it was not capped and exposed. Both have seperate pull cords and the fan has a forward and reverse switch. I have 7 wires comi g out of the fan one black one white and one blue that are thick and the 4 smaller guage wires that are beige black brown and red...i have a capacitor that is already connected to the fan pull string leaving a black wire coming out of position 3 and a purple coming out of position L the other two like i said are connected to the capaciztor and those are blue and red. Then i havethe 6 pin forward and reverse switch which has 6 wires coming off of it they are brown and red beige and purple..it is wored ro one light switch on the wall that works both the light and the fan. I have to flip that light to get power to the fan and i can use the pull strings from there its impossible to find a video for this fan with the exact wires i have. PleSe only real advice on how to wire and no call ele trician jokes i cannot afford that right now.

Have 1 live old Bx box with Hot and Neutral. Would like to Splice into a new J box > Switchboard > Wall Sconce + Ceiling Fixture.

Any advice on what to do? What to avoid? When you splice the old wires into the Romex, where will the final ground terminate at ?

Hi all, I have an outdoor light fixture that won’t turn on. It’s in a box with 3 other switches - that all control the lights in the entry way.

My house was built in the 1920s in upstate NY, so it’s got lots of interesting stuff going on and a good mix of old wiring and new wiring. I know - cloth wiring should be replaced but just not in the cards right now to do a full gut.

Anyways, I attached my diagram of what’s going on in the box. S3 and S4 (one not working) are daisy chained off of S2, with S2 having the stacked wire under the screw (a big no-no I understand). S3 takes the S2 hot via backstab, then the wire from the terminal screw goes to the S4 screw.
Voltage readings go down as the line goes down - S2 (~120V), S3 (~110V), S4 (~95V).

I’m thinking I should fix the wiring with actual pigtails because I’m wondering if that voltage drop is causing the light to not work + safety. My question though is:
1. Is this the first thing you’d fix?
2. If this doesn’t work, what would be the next step? Check the outdoor light wiring? It’s a PAR20 LED.
3. Can you pigtail on a cloth wire safely? Right now it’s spliced with one newer wire in a red nut (last picture).

Thanks in advance!

Do I need additional

so hello, i have this psu it is ajustable and originaly it wasnt just a psu i modified it a litle bit, i want as you guys, maybe some one know 1. some low price ajustable psu maybe more powerfoul 2. maybe some power counting screen, so i can know the exact power it is emminting for the momment, and maybe some one know how to maybe add some power to it in easy and safe way, the internals are in the fotos, AND PLS EVERY THINK SOME ONE FIND NEED TO BE ON Amazon.it ot better ebay.it, even aliexpress or temu tha IMPORTANT think it is in italy, and with the limits of 25-30 euro, thanks for atention

Hello electricians. I have a question. I’m wondering, for those of you who run businesses. What are some problems/obstacles you find? What are the reasons you dont expand? Please let me know

Just moved into a house and the ceiling fan was super loose and actually fell down as soon as I started messing with it. I went to put it back up and don’t know what to make of this. Sorry in advance I don’t know much about electrical work other than hot neutral and ground. I’m thrown off by why the ground wire is split in the middle and it’s an older fan, don’t know where to put the ground wire in there. Thanks in advance.

Please help me understand how to wire the fan based on these pics.

House built in 1939. Need to move this cloth electrical wire (it runs to an ancient outlet box - see first and fourth image) to do some duct work. I’ve heard the inner rubber insulation on these wires can crack easily when moving them and cause arcing if they’re live.

Not sure how to test if it’s live or if it’s safe to just move. I’ve used a non-contact voltage tester on the cloth but I believe the insulation is too thick to pick up voltage.

Thank you so much for any insight!

Hey guys recently the airconditioner in my lounge room started tripping the circuit breaker when turned on.

Upon investigation by an electrician they found that someone had wired the airconditioner to the normal 4mm power cable for this section of the house and not on its own breaker either.

The aircon was rewired and put on to its own breaker, but the breaker trips instantly when the unit is turned on.

A quick visual inspection shows nothing obvious wrong with it and the electrician has advised me it's easier just to replace the whole unit.

The unit is still rather new but seeing as I purchased this house at the start of the year I don't have the warranty for it.

Any advice?

Ok men of the trades who are more handsome and smarter than I am. I only know how to be okay with wood and this is above my pay grade.

Skip to bottom if the story and background doesn’t matter. Any advice is so helpful. My family is going to be financially hurting when my wife gives birth in December if we’re stuck with this.

We bought a home in may of last year, in which I had the panel reworked and the off hours meter removed. This caused a years worth of hell.

Peco (our energy provider) began “not billing” us for the correct amount. We contacted them, it was fixed, and then 3 months later (during winter with gas heat not electric) the bill dropped again. We assumed this was due to not running ac units in windows or our 2 head mini split. Paid bill every month, was low, but apparently they were reading the wrong meter somehow.

Fast forward to last month we received a $6500 bill in the mail. This is going to end us financially. It’s been back and forth with Pennsylvania utility commission, state representatives, and Peco.

They were double billing, then not billing, then correcting, they shut off our power one day randomly with no warning. They have constantly said “this is our fault” but yet somehow we’re the ones getting no answers to an actual bill

TLDR:

I need to figure out what is drawing so much power in our home. It’s a century home, we don’t have central air, all new appliances minus the hot water heater, and our bill is $450 in 14 days and we’re using an ungodly kw/h. I will do and try anything I can to correct this where I can. Please help us.

Any idea how to undo the black capsule? Seems to be stuck. My sister put in new bulbs and it never came on. She put 18w bulbs when the ceiling fan says “13 Watts Max”.

I tested with NCV and there is power there but the light and fan won’t come on.

Looking for any suggestions to get this up and running again. Thanks

When I got the outlet inspected, the electrician said that there was nothing wrong with the outlet and that my power cord was faulty. I've been using this power cord for the past 3 years now and it was perfectly fine, with no sign of wear, up until this morning when I noticed the burn.

I'm facing a dilemma right now. Should I just replace the power cord and plug it into the same outlet?

I want to know if this cord is okay to use safely or if it is a fire risk. The discoloration on the second picture is because of the flash on my phone. Thanks!

Edit: it is a cord to a fridge. The fridge sat on top of it when we moved and the bottom prong was bent. I manually fixed it with pliers.

I have to run my GEC for my transformer to the a GEC ground bar as there is no building steel or anything of that sorts near my transformer, closet ground bar or any steel is about 250ft away. Come today I found a telecom room behind the space where my transformer is and there is a copper ground bar there. Only grounds hooked up in that ground bar are some small grounds for data. I believe that ground bar is jumped with a bar ground jumper from there to the nearest ground bar which is about 250 ft away. I have to run a 1/0 ground wire per plans and I think the jumper is about the same size or a little bigger or even smaller can’t remember. Question is can I tap into that ground bar with my ground? Whah if that ground wire jumpers does end up being smaller than my GEC per plans, is that fine?. Couldn’t find any codes in the code book looking for an answer or advice thanks!

he first photo is the original wiring and hardware. The switch & outlet combo is on its own breaker by its self’s.
It powers two outdoor lights only. The newer outlet & switch combination I purchased requires there to be two white wires, when I only have one. The only way I have been able to get the lights to work (as shown in the last photos) was by wiring up a basic light switch but the switch itself doesn’t turn off the lights stay on regardless of the switch being on the off/on position.
To make the last rig work I twisted both hot wires together.

Any suggestions or ideas would extremely helpful.
So far I have not found an older combination switch to replace the original, as that would be the easiest option.

Hello!
I’ve changed about half the receptacles in my current home moved into two years ago going a few at a time. I’m a bit stumped on this one. It’s got three neutrals two are backstabbed and the third is on a j hook on the screw. The other side has one red wire and one black and the tab is broken on that side.

This is in a master bedroom. Both outlets are on all the time and there is no switch (currently) in the room that controls an outlet. There is one switch for four recessed lights. There’s a cover plate in the middle of the ceiling, I assume the previous owners removed a central fixture or ceiling fan when they added recessed lights or a mini split. Also the outlet is on the same circuit as the recessed lights and half the rooms outlets are on that circuit, the other half are on a different one. Oh and it’s a 15A breaker and 14 gauge wire.

I would like to change this, using a pigtail or wago, but I guess what are the possibilities for why there is an extra neutral.
Thanks!