Was sick of having a crowded lift so I made this conduit rack. Paid by the hour btw

This is just the tip of the iceberg of the cluster f*ck this house has become. We're going to lose the home next month and our entire $157,000 we've invested into this home. If you have any advice let me know.

we've been having severe lightning these past few days and my ceiling fan was on during a heavy lightning shover. There was a lightning strike, the fuse went off and once it came back my ceiling fan was not working. does anyone know of a way to get it fixed without having an electrician called? TIA.

I don’t know much about electronics. I have this rear light from an LMP2 car but I have no idea how to power it

Long time lurker and first time poster!

I want to seal the exposed area around an exterior electrical outlet to prevent outside moisture and air from leaking into my crawlspace.

How would I go around doing this? Duct sealing putty, foam, or something else? I want to be make sure the sealant does not cause an electrical hazard.

Any advice welcome. Thank you :)

Hey all,

Im hoping I don’t have to call an electrician for this simple ceiling light. A friend said there was a pop sound coming from the dimmer light switch when I turned on the circuit breaker (he wasn’t sure if there was a flash of light or not) and then the light would not turn on. It could have been a small short. After I inspected there seems to be no burn smell or black signs of burn.

I’ve attached photos of my 3 way light switch box, and the wiring in my ceiling light canopy.

In the canopy, there’s a bundle of black wires, a bundle of neutral wires, and a bundle of ground. Then there’s the hot wire bundled with the light wire, and the neutral wire bundles with the light wire. The light ground wire is connected to the ground bundle and ground screw.

Photo of the light switch box wiring is attached with the switches. Does anything look wrong? Thank you!

The heated towel rail in our bathroom was only heating two thirds of the way up, plus there was a smell of oil/petrol coming from it. My Mum bled it and the air that came out was the source of the smell. We thought we'd fixed it but today the smell is back and is coming from under the shower where the towel rail pipes go. Could there be trapped air in the pipes and if so what is the best way to fix this?

I had internet connectivity issue went to turn off the switch and had an exposed modem socket which I touched accidentally and experienced a sharp sting on my thumb, within a minute two tiny white dots appeared on my thumb probably burn marks . What do I do now ?

Curious how the following could happen unless it was intentional trolling? And yes, it could be entirely random chance and they didn't bother to check circuits when connecting the switches... This is mostly a "wtf" frustration than a deep dive into exactly how this functionally happens so many times within the same wiring job.

• Bathroom 1 -> 3 gang box, 3 switches. Light + Exhaust and Heat fans
  • Light is the first one nearest to the door when you enter
  • 2nd switch (middle) is the heat
  • 3rd switch (furthest) is the exhaust fan
• Bathroom 2 -> 4 gang box, 4 switches. Two separate lights and Exhaust + Heat fans
  • First two switches are lights
  • 3rd switch is exhaust fan
  • 4th switch (furthest) is heat
• Bathroom 3 -> 3 gang box, 3 switches. Same as Bathroom 1, but reversed.
  • First is light
  • 2nd is exhaust
  • 3rd is heat

Downstairs recessed lighting:

• First set of switches at bottom of stairs
  • Left switch towards laundry and garage is the ROOM light to the right
  • Right switch towards the room is the stairway lighting
• Another set of switches in middle of the room
  • Left switch turns on the RIGHT half of the lights
  • Right switch turns on the LEFT half of the lights

Kitchen switches:

• Garbage disposal and sink light, stacked switches (vertical alighment)
  • Top switch is garbage disposal
  • Bottom switch is light...

I could go on... It almost seems like it was done on purpose vs random chance which switch was connected to what circuit. Considering how many things are "wrong" or different.

I can, and will eventually fix all of this. I feel like this had to have been done to troll someone? So many switches are completely "wrong" compared to what a normal human would expect each of them to do.

Not sure just lost power to furnace and wires feeding the switch found a few more nlt live also shut off 2 breakers and nothing appears to be off. Appears to be wires with no Cobbwebbs on but I been here long time and didn't pull any new wires.

Pic 1 Elinated left three wire line, the red wire was bonded to the box. Right wire is is two wire, no ground
Pic 2 Supply from box is two wire no ground
Pic 3 Line eventually goes to grounded Romex supplying my water pump

Did I eliminate some sort of ground by disconnecting the red wire from the box? I keep the circuit off for the time being. Thanks!

60 gallon air compressor. New 5hp 25amp single phase 220v motor.

Ran my old compressor off the same outlet, don't remember motor HP or amp draw but it was a 60gal and likely a 3-5hp. No issues.

Disconnected belt on compressor and motor still trips 30amp breaker. Dims the lights in my shop as well. Checked for a short in shop wiring. Nothing found.

EDIT Figure a 30amp breaker would suffice as it's a 25amp motor. However, I missed the label that says to use a 60amp breaker. Likely for start up. Will install and report back. Wiring is not undersized.

EDIT 2 ** Motor runs for about 1 sec before popping the motors thermal reset now**

Installed 60amp breaker, 50amp outlet. Tried two different compressor switches. Tried running motor cw and ccw. 8 or 10ga wiring from sub panel to outlet. 6-8 for motor cord.

Motor is a Vevor 5hp model #257202

vevor motor label pic

A lil backstory, its an old house i mean built by the older standards but the heater WAS NEVER USED BEFORE, or anything in the house, the house is new but stuck in the old standards lets put it that way, does it have a thermal switch or something like that so it doesnt overheat? Its really good at heating the bathroom so i use it sometimes, not while showeing tho, cuz it sounds scary

EDIT: not a wuartz heater quartz heaters use glass, this looks like a tubular radiant heater

Recently I and a few hundred other power customers experienced a "sustained undervoltage" event. After about 30 seconds of flickering, incoming 120VAC went to 40VAC ±0.5V, and then remained stable at that level for about 40 minutes. I measured that at outlets on both phases, anywhere in the house, except for a few circuits that I had manually turned off to protect appliances. The outage map showed about 500 customers affected.
After 40 minutes, power went out completely, presumably when a work crew started repairs at the substation, and after 20 minutes, it was fixed.

I don't know if this is worth trying to escalate with the power company, or if this is in the category of "yeah stuff goes wrong sometimes, oh well."

Going by what I've read online, that wasn't a "sag," defined as substantially-reduced voltage that lasts between 1/2-cycle and 1 minute, and should be corrected by something automatically switching around at a substation. If the equipment can't correct it, then it should cut power entirely in order to prevent overheat damage to things like motors and some power supplies. The stuff I saw made it sound like sustained undervoltage should never happen, due to that potential for downstream damage.

I called the power company the next day, and after looking into it for a few minutes, all they could say was that their records show that a work crew was dispatched, and that the problem was fixed. So the rep either didn't have, or wasn't permitted to share, any details on what the cause was, or what was done.

Where I work is a business-to-business type place, and this sort of thing would result in a demand for a Corrective Action Report, wanting root cause and a plan on what would be done to fix it. But I'm just one customer among millions here, so my options for escalation are limited anyway.

Dad was trying to charge a non-rechargable battery. Now the terminals are all corroded entirely... Didn't know when it happened. Is this no big deal?

(Scraped some to see if the wire inside got melted or not)

Hi everyone, I ask this because I am going to be buying a new desk. My monitor (48”TV) is taking up too much space on my current desk and I want a cleaner station.

If this is something safe, I would be plugging in my PC(1000W PSU)containing a 9800x3d and 5070ti. Also my LG C6 48”, my Apple TV, and occasionally my 4K Blu-ray player.

According to the pictures, the desk has 4 12A outlets. You’d think that’s enough, but my concern is would these be safe for continuous use. Multi hour TV/gaming sessions.

I don’t know if the strip has surge protection. I can’t see it on the description so I will assume it doesn’t.

I would be plugging directly to the wall, as I hear that daisy changing outlets/strips is a fire hazard.

Any insight and previous experience is welcome.

Thank you.

X-posting here to increase the chances folks might see it and that it may help others in the future.

So lost power to furnace and found other dead wires. Also shut off 2 breakers and nothing in house appears to be off. Panel not labeled stickers fell off looks like from age it was half assisted labeled years ago.