Just gone done installing the APR GTC 200 wing on the GT350. Lemme know what you think!

Brought the Mach 1 to Tail of the Dragon and had an absolute blast! The handling, the grip, the way it takes corners, and how planted and confident it feels through the twists and turns are just incredible. The Handling Package really shines on a road like this. And of course, hearing that 5.0 V8 echo through the mountains made the whole experience even better!

Went and ran 52 from the Chatsworth side on wednesday afternoon. No ragurts, no one was on the road. Downshifts to 2nd are just too fun.

Hi guys! I just got a 2010 Mustang Convertible and I’m wondering if anyone has any tips for maintenance as it is going to be my daily driver. I live in a townhouse complex, so it will not be garaged and the weather here can be all over the place- snowy winters, some rain, hot summers, etc. I’m trying to research and read on what to get to best protect the vinyl and exterior and there are mixed recommendations on using a cover when not in use during the day and night and just leaving it uncovered and using protectant. Let me know if you have any experience or advice, I really want to maintain it well and keep it in good condition.

About a year ago I sold this 2011 gtcs with 75k miles 6 speed manual 3.73 package

0 damage to body except rock chips on front like all do

It had very worn tires

It had a newer transmission put in and new clutch

0 codes

Everything was OEM and factory besides very conservative mufflers

Well I wanted 19 then 18k but got desperate and sold for 14k after 3 guys bullshitted me

14 fucking K! After 3 months of having it listed and boosted on marketplace

Sold in September..

Nashville area.

Now I look for them on Facebook and never quite see this same one, usually modded to hell or over 100k

Was this a mistake?

Long story short: I am having to get a lawyer involved due to needing a 2nd reman (3rd engine) in this car due to some issues with the original repair facility. It has taken corporate 3 months to make a decision to finally replace under their parts/labor warranty, but I’m not satisfied with their responses.

I need to hire an independent, 3rd party inspection company to take a look at the engine they’ve just removed & torn-down to verify failures of their own volition so I can have evidence outside of solely their internal technicians. I live in the San Marcos TX area. I’ve found a few online, but I’m really looking for someone who has expertise specifically with these coyotes. Any help anyone can lend is greatly appreciated!

I have a 2022 Mustang GT with the 6 speed manual, with a 3.55 rear end. Any of you who own a 6 speed probably know what I mean when I say that the gearing is way to tall for the car. Maybe a performance pack would have been the better choice bc of the 3.73 rear end?

Im looking for advice on how to make the car feel more peppy and shove you in your seat better without having to rev it out like crazy. I have considered rebuilding the rear end and going to a 3.73 or a 4.10 rear gear, but I feel like maybe that is a bit extreme? Has anyone had good luck resolving this issue with getting a tune on their car, or perhaps a bigger throttle body?

Wife wont let me spend 10k to supercharge it right now so thats off the table.. for now lol

Got myself a new camera recently after my previous one died (RIP A7IV) so I upgraded and tested it out on my friend's GT500. Equipment I used was a Sony A7V, Sigma 28-105 F2.8 ART and a CPL filter for anyone curious!

I recently traded-in my 2007 GT. I got it back in 2022 from a dealership with 60k miles for $16,000.

I checked this morning to see if they had listed it yet. My goodness, they’re asking $18,000 for it with 107,000 miles.

Just took these 4 mustang wheels off my crown vic. The front two tires are bald but the back are good. Mustang brand rims. Some off brand tires. What would the value be for these? Gonna power wash and polish them to make them look better

Finally decided to save up and get the best 24 mustang after driving the worst 24 mustang haha. All jokes but I loved the Ecoboost but it was time to graduate and get back into a nice manual v8. The biggest difference is the handling, even on the same wheel and tire set up, it’s amazing how much difference the upgraded parts make. Plus I’m happy to have found handling pack in the color and appearance package.

Sometimes it says it is from 1969, sometimes from 1970, sometimes that it’s a Fastback, a Mach 1, sometime’s both.

What the hell do I need to search in order to correctly find it, what’s its exact name?

Also, for those who have it, what’s the monthly cost of the car? (Based on 10k km per year)

I have a 2019 Gt and I love this car but every time I’m parked or at a stoplight my car starts idling rough. It first was only with the AC on but as it continued it started to do it when the AC is off and my car gets warmed up after a few minutes drive. Sometimes it gets to the point where it’s a violent shake and other times it’s a light shake. I’ve heard it could be a vacuum leak and I hear a hissing noise from the engine when I pop my hood and I can’t pin point tell a general area of where the hissing is but I can’t pin point it, and I’ve tried messing with the hoses and nothing was loose. I cleaned the throttle body (wasn’t very dirty) and I’ve seen that it can be a VCT solenoid but I don’t want to just throw a couple hundred bucks at it and be wrong. It’s my first mustang and I bought it cause genuinely I fell in love with it from the first drive. The kid that owned it before me did some stuff to the car and idk what all he did but as well Idk if it’s even tuned right either for the stuff he did. There’s no check engine light or anything to indicate that the engine is failing on me but I just want to get this issue fixed. I feel embarrassed when it feels like it’s going to stall out at a light or in a drive thru and I can hear my RPMs fluctuating

Helping my buddy with his build on a ‘17 GT S550, he’s getting the 700hp ESS supercharger kit installed and tuned. The only issue we are having is choosing a catch can system and what components are needed.

He really doesn’t want a VTA can but is worried that a closed loop system won’t alleviate enough crankcase pressure. The top of the list pick is the UPR dual kit. Since it’s still routing back into the intake it should be good right? Or is VTA required for this power level?

I have a decent understanding of the whole PCV system but I don’t understand how different areas of the engine change to/from vacuum and what needs to happen to the PCV system to make it safe and reliable.

TIA

I have a FBO ‘12 Roush Stage 2 Premium Pkg. It’s not the fastest thing,it’s heavy,wheels weigh 20ibs over stock and it’s got its little bugs/cosmetic issues.
I want to get a drag pack,weight reduction,Holley or CJ manifold,k member etc,but won’t that defeat the purpose of getting a Prem Pack Roush car?
Sure if it was a plain Jane base model I would’ve done all that already in a heart beat but clapping out a premium/high trim vehicle doesn’t sit right with me.
Ive been getting beat recently by FBO/BO 10spd cars and that doesn’t get to me but it’s the posting that does.

Hey everyone,

I own a 2017 Ford Mustang GT with the 5.0L Gen 2 Coyote V8, and I've been trying to figure out a strange ticking noise coming from the engine.

Here's exactly what I've noticed:

- The engine makes a consistent, rhythmic ticking or light rattling noise at idle.

- The ticking is evenly spaced, not random or intermittent.

- As soon as I slightly press the accelerator and raise the RPM to around 900–1,000, the ticking completely disappears.

- The moment the RPM drops back to idle, the ticking immediately returns.

- It sounds almost identical whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.

- The idle RPM remains stable, with no noticeable fluctuations.

- I can hear the noise from both sides of the engine.

- In the attached video, I revved the engine to approximately 3,000 RPM.

I've looked into the common Coyote "typewriter tick," but from what I've seen, that noise often seems more irregular than mine.

I've also come across discussions about timing chain tensioners, cam phasers, injectors, and even rod bearings, but I don't want to jump to conclusions.

My main question is: Has anyone experienced this exact behavior, where a consistent ticking noise completely disappears with just a slight increase in RPM and immediately returns at idle?

Does this sound like normal Coyote engine noise, or could it indicate something that needs attention?

I'd especially appreciate input from Coyote owners or Ford technicians who have encountered something similar.

Thanks in advance!

Figured yall might like this one too!

It’s late and I am tired from doing dynamat on my door and installing new speakers. I cannot figure out what this is for. 🥴 My new mid range and 6 1/2” are working so it can’t be the speakers and I can’t see anywhere on the door that this fits into. How did I end up with this extra cable? I don’t wanna put the panel back on and then realize something isn’t working.

All I can say is well done ford!!! The SC checks all of my boxes. I added my old GT500 for reference.

The 2020 felt wild in a good way. Pulled extremely well. But the Darkhorse feels like a rocket. It’s balanced and more comfortable and noticeably faster and you can’t forget the creature comforts. Can’t wait to start mods😎😎

please help

I have a 1996 manual mustang gt 4.6 v8, a little over 3 months ago a mechanic did my oil change and didn’t screw on the filter right, and as I was driving the oil filter came off or loose, and all the oil fell out, I drove it for maybe a couple minutes like that, when I parked it I heard knocking, the mechanic came over and fixed it and added oil, it been driving good since, I was honestly just worried if the engines gonna go out soon? This is my daily so I can’t have it blowing up on me

Picked up the Form Lighting Smoked LED taillights, rear reflectors, and reverse light/ brake light the other day and installed them. Big difference.