Picked up the Form Lighting Smoked LED taillights, rear reflectors, and reverse light/ brake light the other day and installed them. Big difference.

Is this mustang a good deal and they are giving a 3k off on this mustang, how much should I pay for this mustang realistically?

How do I fix my Speedo? I only got up to the speed limit.

Hello everyone. My 2006 S197 Mustang has severe rust damage in one area behind the driver’s seat underneath the vehicle. The rest of the underbody only has light surface rust.

I am assuming this was caused by water leaking and pooling in the interior carpet insulation over time. Windshield drain plugs inside the engine bay are known for clogging up in these models.

Has anyone else with an S197 dealt with this specific spot? What is the best way to address this, and where should I look first to find and stop the interior water leak so it doesn't happen again? Any advice is appreciated, thank you for your help.

Helping my buddy with his build on a ‘17 GT S550, he’s getting the 700hp ESS supercharger kit installed and tuned. The only issue we are having is choosing a catch can system and what components are needed.

He really doesn’t want a VTA can but is worried that a closed loop system won’t alleviate enough crankcase pressure. The top of the list pick is the UPR dual kit. Since it’s still routing back into the intake it should be good right? Or is VTA required for this power level?

I have a decent understanding of the whole PCV system but I don’t understand how different areas of the engine change to/from vacuum and what needs to happen to the PCV system to make it safe and reliable.

TIA

Hey everyone,

I own a 2017 Ford Mustang GT with the 5.0L Gen 2 Coyote V8, and I've been trying to figure out a strange ticking noise coming from the engine.

Here's exactly what I've noticed:

- The engine makes a consistent, rhythmic ticking or light rattling noise at idle.

- The ticking is evenly spaced, not random or intermittent.

- As soon as I slightly press the accelerator and raise the RPM to around 900–1,000, the ticking completely disappears.

- The moment the RPM drops back to idle, the ticking immediately returns.

- It sounds almost identical whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.

- The idle RPM remains stable, with no noticeable fluctuations.

- I can hear the noise from both sides of the engine.

- In the attached video, I revved the engine to approximately 3,000 RPM.

I've looked into the common Coyote "typewriter tick," but from what I've seen, that noise often seems more irregular than mine.

I've also come across discussions about timing chain tensioners, cam phasers, injectors, and even rod bearings, but I don't want to jump to conclusions.

My main question is: Has anyone experienced this exact behavior, where a consistent ticking noise completely disappears with just a slight increase in RPM and immediately returns at idle?

Does this sound like normal Coyote engine noise, or could it indicate something that needs attention?

I'd especially appreciate input from Coyote owners or Ford technicians who have encountered something similar.

Thanks in advance!

Just took these 4 mustang wheels off my crown vic. The front two tires are bald but the back are good. Mustang brand rims. Some off brand tires. What would the value be for these? Gonna power wash and polish them to make them look better

So a bit of context…

About a few months ago I got some really cheap coilovers that worked for a while…until yesterday when they broke on me. So now I’m looking into struts and lowering springs. I don’t have a huge budget, maybe SR performance? Or touring tech? Just need something to keep me afloat

Edit: 2005 Mustang GT

It was wrapped around it like a continuation of the thread, but it was loose.

Long story short: I am having to get a lawyer involved due to needing a 2nd reman (3rd engine) in this car due to some issues with the original repair facility. It has taken corporate 3 months to make a decision to finally replace under their parts/labor warranty, but I’m not satisfied with their responses.

I need to hire an independent, 3rd party inspection company to take a look at the engine they’ve just removed & torn-down to verify failures of their own volition so I can have evidence outside of solely their internal technicians. I live in the San Marcos TX area. I’ve found a few online, but I’m really looking for someone who has expertise specifically with these coyotes. Any help anyone can lend is greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone! I'm conducting a High School research engineering project investigating wind buffeting when driving two-door coupes with the side windows open. I'm looking for current or recent owners of vehicles such as the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, Camaro, Dodge Challenger, and other two-door coupes to share their experiences. The survey takes less than 3 minutes and asks about your vehicle, interest, and experience with wind buffeting. Your participation is optional, but your feedback will help me better figure out how different coupe designs and driving conditions affect wind buffeting.

Survey link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdEIxSHNbodjJVZ-AD_L9DPKE3ALZ5iHlod5gZQX7eMADdgRw/viewform?usp=header

Thank you for helping with my research! Feel free to share this post with other coupe owners, if permitted by the group.

Just gone done installing the APR GTC 200 wing on the GT350. Lemme know what you think!

I have a FBO ‘12 Roush Stage 2 Premium Pkg. It’s not the fastest thing,it’s heavy,wheels weigh 20ibs over stock and it’s got its little bugs/cosmetic issues.
I want to get a drag pack,weight reduction,Holley or CJ manifold,k member etc,but won’t that defeat the purpose of getting a Prem Pack Roush car?
Sure if it was a plain Jane base model I would’ve done all that already in a heart beat but clapping out a premium/high trim vehicle doesn’t sit right with me.
Ive been getting beat recently by FBO/BO 10spd cars and that doesn’t get to me but it’s the posting that does.

Figured yall might like this one too!

I recently traded-in my 2007 GT. I got it back in 2022 from a dealership with 60k miles for $16,000.

I checked this morning to see if they had listed it yet. My goodness, they’re asking $18,000 for it with 107,000 miles.

About a year ago I sold this 2011 gtcs with 75k miles 6 speed manual 3.73 package

0 damage to body except rock chips on front like all do

It had very worn tires

It had a newer transmission put in and new clutch

0 codes

Everything was OEM and factory besides very conservative mufflers

Well I wanted 19 then 18k but got desperate and sold for 14k after 3 guys bullshitted me

14 fucking K! After 3 months of having it listed and boosted on marketplace

Sold in September..

Nashville area.

Now I look for them on Facebook and never quite see this same one, usually modded to hell or over 100k

Was this a mistake?

After eight years of owning a Honda Accord, someone unfortunately ran a red light and totaled my car. Thankfully, nobody was hurt, and insurance paid me out…

I’ve never been a huge car guy, but ever since I was a kid, Mustangs have always caught my attention. So I figured, why not finally get one?
Today, I officially became the owner of a brand-new 2026 Mustang GT!

Coming from a Honda Accord, this thing is a whole different animal. 😂 It’s only day one, but I’m already having a blast!

Here’s to many years and great memories with this beauty! 😎💪

Brought the Mach 1 to Tail of the Dragon and had an absolute blast! The handling, the grip, the way it takes corners, and how planted and confident it feels through the twists and turns are just incredible. The Handling Package really shines on a road like this. And of course, hearing that 5.0 V8 echo through the mountains made the whole experience even better!

So I went into the shop because of rattling. This is what it sounds like. I first noticed it today when it was prettty cold, it's like when it warms up it goes away or a lot less noticeable after driving a bit.

Anyways the shop I took it to said they believe this is the catalytic converter. I got the car in january, and the carfax said last year the cat converter was replaced. So i called the shop today to ask them what they did last year, and they said they added in part number 54959 which is a universal magma flow Catalytic converter. The shop I went to today said if I order it, they'll put it in for me and said it should by all means remove the rattle.

They did use a boroscope and saw nothing wrong in there like the honeycomb or anything, but they would show me when they'd punch it you could hear a rattle, so their recommendation is just replacing the whole cat. They said if i order the same part for $90 from magma flow, they can put on for just $100. But has anyone used magma flow? If so how would it break down after just a year and 3000 miles, if that's truly what is causing the rattling?

Help a newbie out! 🏎️

Hey everyone!

I’m currently torn between RTR and MP Concepts for my Race Red Mustang S650.

I’m specifically looking at upgrading the front chin spoiler and side skirts, but I can’t quite decide which brand to go with.

For those who have installed either brand, I’d love to hear your thoughts on fitment, quality, durability, and overall aesthetics.

I’m aiming for a clean, aggressive look without going too overboard.

Would also appreciate some photos of your setups for inspiration!

Thanks in advance! 🙏🏻

Hi guys! I just got a 2010 Mustang Convertible and I’m wondering if anyone has any tips for maintenance as it is going to be my daily driver. I live in a townhouse complex, so it will not be garaged and the weather here can be all over the place- snowy winters, some rain, hot summers, etc. I’m trying to research and read on what to get to best protect the vinyl and exterior and there are mixed recommendations on using a cover when not in use during the day and night and just leaving it uncovered and using protectant. Let me know if you have any experience or advice, I really want to maintain it well and keep it in good condition.