Do I need to Change the break pads? I’m thinking it got thinned out and slipped off the rotar causing the caliber to scrape my rim

Anyone know if this is normal? Sounds very weird and it wasn’t doing this until recently. Sent it to the shop and they said they weren’t able to find anything causing besides the “lifters” not being your normal lifters. What does that even mean ?!

The entire piece that control air movement in my 2025 honda accord SE has detached. I have tried to find individual part but the internet, as usual, is being useless. I'm not trying to replace the entire vent if I can just buy piece itself. Hoping you guys can try to help me find out what its called. Not trying to pay a bloodthirsty mechanic hundreds for a repair that should cost no more than 5 bucks.

Lowkey, Hyundai has been cooking with these designs lately. What do you guys think? 👀

Hi

Just looking for some advice on what to do in this situation.

Today I took my car in for its MOT, it failed its first one due to the track rod end ball dust cover and the anti roll bar ball dust cover needing replacing both on the front left side. This work was carried out by the same garage who then passed the MOT and I collect the car this evening.

I left the garage and started to drive home, upon merging on to a parkway I break slightly and the whole car shock violently for around 30 seconds at around 60mph. Fair to say both me and my 4 year old who was in the back were a little spooked!!

Around another 800 meters later I came to a stop at a traffic lights, same shaking when I breaked. Then I could not move! The front left wheel had become completely detached from the steering rod. The RAC came out, reattached the steering rod to get me home and advise I get it looked at again tomorrow.

What should I do about the garage? It seems like a mistake but one that could have ended up very seriously?

Long story short, we just got a good deal from a mechanic on a 2010 Hyundai Sonata (80k miles). We've noticed that to make a turn though we have to turn the steering wheel like...360 degrees. The mechanic who is gonna do the inspection once we drive it around a bit (he says it won't pass emissions standards till we drive a bit) said the wheel is fine and some cars are just like that, but.... Is it? Is that weird?

Many thanks in advance!

Car make and model: Honda CRV 2011

So, for some backstory I JUST got this checked by a mechanic before it really started messing up and was told I just had no radiator fluid, cool. Filled that up and still was having cooling issues and a nagging sound in the car when driving. Sounds of hissing, gurgling, car jolting and acting sluggish when accelerating, and anything like it.

Realized while driving today I lost all of my cold air and heard this horrible squeaking, popped the hood open and this hose is almost popping like there’s major issue (could be an easy fix but it’s really causing some weird issues with my car).

If anyone could let me know what this is and maybe the extend of the issue it would be helpful. I don’t want to have another mechanic brush me off saying I just didn’t fill up the radiator and charging me an arm and a leg 🫩

***apologies for the language in the video I’m a little frustrated from the issue not being resolved before.

So I need to replace the tire in my 2024 Grand Cherokee Altitude. The tire that it comes with has been discontinued (Bridgestone dueler H/L 400) and Discount Tire gave me two options:

Bridgestone duller LX
Bridgestone encopia 422+

Encopia is cheaper.

Any thoughts here? I have no knowledge of tires…I live in Wichita but full time in Minnesota.

Per the pictures, have this small chip just next to the passenger door knob. Wondering what your recommendations are to best fix this. Obviously a major concern is the rust.

Thanks!

Kia Forte5 GT Limited, 2023

What is this sticky gunk under my egr? I’ve never seen this before and my car has been having problems, probably related to my egr.

For starters, I drive a 2012 Kia soul 2.0 with 137,400 miles on it. In the last two days sometimes when I come to a complete stop and then try and move/accelerate the car revs, RPM shoots to 3rd, and then it jerks to take off. I had my transmission fluid drained and filled about a month ago so I’m curious if possibly they put in the wrong fluid or possibly the fluid is low or dirty.
My biggest concern is that the transmission is slipping and I may have to get it replaced :(
Does anyone know what other possibilities could be the issue with the car?

2015 Subaru WRX, trying to figure out what to do with my car

Looking for advice on what should be repaired and what should be left for later, I love this car but this is a decent chunk of change on top of already 3k for a couple other repair items recently. I'm really not sure how much of this would be considered urgent/critical and what all is optional/leave for later. Would like to know more about avoiding potential future work, e.g. "radiator breaking is unlikely but could cause major damage" (this is a hypothetical example). I'd love to get perspectives from people who actually know stuff about automotive maintenance and repairs. Difficult for me to trust the opinion of a shop when they are in the position of both advising me and trying to sell me on service at the same time. Happy to provide any other details if I am able.

Hi everyone. I have a honda accord sport 2016. This piece cracked and i am hearing this noise sometimes when i am driving. I believe it's scraping the road at times. Does anyone know what this piece is called. Located by left rear wheel

The only issue I had in my truck prior to cleaning this was when I got to a stop sign. Sometimes my car would rev up at RPMs and then drop almost like it wanted to stall. But it did not stall. It’s Been a few weeks since that happened although, when you stop at a stop sign, it still wants to jump forward a little bit. It just doesn’t feel like it wanted to stall though ..
Now, yesterday after cleaning this and putting k&n filter oil on it. My truck was about to stall at a red light after the RPMs jumped. I got to a parking space put it in park. Car stalled. Turned it off. Back on left it for two minutes and then stalled again after RPM jumped. Any ideas what it could be? .

I have a UK-spec Lexus LS430 (2004) which is comes as standard with a factory-fitted rear aircon evaporator. It had the common issue with this model that the the rear refrigerant lines corrode. I finally found an a/c guy who knows these cars, and he wasn't able to fix the rear lines without dropping the fuel tank and a whole bunch of other work at the back, so he capped off the rear, as many people do. It's working great now (in the front only, obvs). It was a pretty slow leak - the car was losing around 500g of charge every 6 months or so.

However, since I bought the car around a year ago, there's been an unpleasant smell, mainly in the boot (trunk), but also partially in the rear of the passenger compartment. It's a pungent chemical smell, almost fishy. Since I've had the a/c fixed, the smell has reduced noticeably.

I'm wondering if it was connected with the leak. Does PAG oil have an unpleasant smell?

Note: I've interpreted the tag "weird noise" to include "weirdly noisome".

My older SUV sometimes sits for several weeks, so I keep a wolfbox available instead of assuming another driver will be nearby when the battery is weak. The part I am unsure about is storage: leaving it in the vehicle means it is available away from home, but bringing it inside makes regular charge checks easier and avoids long periods in extreme temperatures. How do you store and check a lithium jump pack for a vehicle that is not driven often?

I want to make the interior of my Nissan Qashqai quieter, currently I have some kind of rattling, other noises when drive over uneven road patch, pothole etc. Would appreciate an advice from someone who deal with this issues. Thanks.

My grandpa passed recently and left me his old car which was incrediblly helpful because i needed a daily driver but now im stresing about ruining it. I live in the Rust Belt and the roads are covered in brine and slush. The original tan carpet is already getting that white salt crustt in the fibers and i feel awful watching it happen just from driving to work every day. I want to deal with it before moisture starts sitting against the floorboards and causing rust. I’ve been looking at heavyduty winter liners that can hold slush and road salt but a lot of what I see online looks like generic plastic.

Should i buy thick universal rubber mats from an auto parts store and trim them ?? I’m not much of a car guy. I just want to keep this car going for him.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to add an underseat sub to my 2014 Hyundai i30. Budget is roughly £300. Keeping my boot space clear is a non-negotiable, so it absolutely has to be an underseat unit.

I've upgraded my head unit so I have dedicated RCA subwoofer outputs, so I'll be running a low-level RCA signal to this Sub.

I'm not expecting chest-rattling bass from a underseat subwoofer but I just want the absolute closest I can possibly get to this.

Between the SL2 and the Nano, which one would be best?

Are there any other options under or around £300 that outperform the JBLs?

Thanks in advance!

I keep a small emergency bag in the car, and the wolfbox caught my eye because it combines a jump starter and an air pump in one unit. The space-saving part is nice, but I am not sure if combo tools are a bad idea when you really need them. If the pump drains the battery or one function fails, you are kind of stuck. Has anyone used a combined unit long enough to trust it, or do you still prefer a separate jump pack and separate inflator?

For my 2001 subaru forester when I turn off my car and take they keys out my lights won't turn off. Does anyone know what could fix this??

This is an image and build plan for different car and different builds each while be difficult to make about $1,355,000 and sadly im broke i only got like $20k to my name if you got their money but i really bloody want this cars to be seen because their so unique and cool i just need their to be made i know it not gonna get made because it's gonna be too expensive and yes their images are ai i do have like hand draw image or blue print of their ideas for their car but don't look nice so i will for now let ai do their drawing part but their build and their planning of how it should look all me but their Porsche look comes from this guy TheSketchMonkey good car design their only design that come from him is their Porsche design i also tested this car by making them in BeamNG. drive as well so their stats are proven kinda i know it blur/ kinda fucking hard to read but it ai what you gonna do about it i could lay out all their blueprint and planning for all 6 cars if you want to actually make it

So I've always worked on beaters and just tightened till I can't anymore, I started working on cars when I was young so I would def not bend metal but still knew when it'd be tight enough, silly ol me forgot that once I get older and naturally stronger sometimes u can't do that, was on what I told myself would be the last turn to tighten my sway bar link and felt a slip, told myself it was probably nothing and took it one a test drive and heard a snap and clunk followed by ABS light.. atleast the new struts and spring transfers are working fine ig 🥹

So I've always worked on beaters and just tightened till I can't anymore, I started working on cars when I was young so I would def not bend metal but still knew when it'd be tight enough, silly ol me forgot that once I get older and naturally stronger sometimes u can't do that, was on what I told myself would be the last turn to tighten my sway bar link and felt a slip, told myself it was probably nothing and took it one a test drive and heard a snap and clunk followed by ABS light.. atleast the new struts and spring transfers are working fine ig 🥹

Dubai’s heat can put extra demands on a vehicle, especially its cooling system, battery and air conditioning. I think these three areas are worth paying attention to before a small symptom becomes a bigger problem.

1. Cooling system
Watch for repeated coolant loss, visible leaks or a temperature gauge rising above its normal range. If the engine overheats, stop safely and switch it off. Never open a hot, pressurised cooling system.

2. Battery and starting
High temperatures can accelerate battery deterioration. Slow cranking or inconsistent starting can be a reason to test the battery and charging system rather than replacing parts based on guesswork.

3. Air conditioning
If the cabin takes longer to cool or airflow feels weaker than usual, the cause should be investigated. Weak cooling does not automatically mean the vehicle needs more refrigerant.

One important point: Symptoms are clues, not confirmed diagnoses. A proper inspection helps identify the cause before deciding what needs repair.

For Dubai drivers, what has been the most common heat-related issue you have experienced: battery trouble, weak A/C or engine-temperature problems? What helped you identify the actual cause?