I got some attention on the port on the last post so I took it out and did some research. This should sound awesome!!!

was sold this amp by a crackhead. it was cheap because unbeknownst to me he had dropped it on the terminal blocks and cracked the board. previously, I reflowed the traces and it worked for a while but still is very fragile. it broke again months later so now he's my permanent fix. this works perfectly!

Doing all new runs of speaker wire and RCAs. Definitely needed to address the road noise coming into the cabin. It’s bad. Doing a deep clean obviously, CDL sheets as needed. I have a bunch of CCF 1/8” thick to go on top of that and a 100sqin roll of 1 l/b MLV . Really hoping to notice a difference !!

I'm tackling my first REAL project with my Creality k2 Plus and would like some insight on printing enclosures.

What are the better filaments to use for this? Need something that won't warp from sun exposure, heat, and something that isn't gonna crack under the pressure. What about wall thicknesses and infill? Any tips/tricks you can share?

I also have questions regarding speaker number, type, and size differences in the same enclosure. Will having a Sundown Audio Neo Pro 6.5" midrange alongside a Sundown Audio U Series 6.5" in the same enclosure cause any issues? Obviously the U series is a subwoofer, so I'm wondering if I should wall them off so that they're in their own separate spaces.

Would also throwing a super tweeter or 3" high range speaker in that enclosure require being separated? I'm assuming I can run that and the Neo Pro in the same space so long as I wall off the U series.

Plan is to run....

a single Neo Pro 6.5", a single U Series 6.5", and a SA-3M 3" in each front door.

A single U Series 6.5" and a SA-3M 3" in each rear door.

I'm open to suggestions and criticism. I may swap out the Neo Pro 6.5" for the SA-6.5M 6.5" for the fronts and run a single SA-8M 8" in each rear door.

I recently got my first sub, a Sundown sa-8 v.3 d2, and I don't wanna blow it.

Was wondering if these settings are okay for this type of music (corridos with drums and a bass guitar). I currently have these settings on my EQ, it was previously higher with the guy at the audioshop putting the loudness at max and the sub level at +10. I lowered it to +1 and turned loudness off. I left the Crossover how he left it since its okay i guess. I got a new Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX, after two previous units have fucked up. I had a cheap audioplanet, then upgraded to a JVC which was supposed to be better. Turns out according to the audio shop that it had Chinese wiring and was a defective model. Any suggestions or tuning recommendations? (on my Sub amp i have a Phoenix Gold and a Audiobahn Sub).

So im got my new 10 in and i noticed somewhere right away, my new sub is like really stiff. My old stub is pretty loose, at least compared to the new one.

Is this gonna cause a problem when i get them paired together in the same box (the box is per spec)? My old ev4 10 is at least a couple years old i can imagine.

Even on this one the surround is nice and sparkly while the older one doesn't even have sparkle (doesn't matter just found that interesting).

Had this thought the other day. We could be sending all these channels down a single fiber optic cable, with 0 interference. Yet all aftermarket stereos and amps continue to use arguably the worst standard for the electrically noisy environment in a car: RCA.

Anyway, this idea is now in the public domain, so nobody can patent it.

real subs from the database, you build the ported box and hold the burp, let go before the coil cooks or the cone slaps itself apart.

Hola buenas tardes !! Tengo esta pantalla instalada en mi auto !! Pero no reconoce el CarPlay .. ni el puerto 1 ni el rojo de frente, abra algún tipo de actualización ? O de plano vuelvo al estéreo original , lo conecto a un iPhone 17 .. algo tiene que ver ?
Saludos

First of all im sorry for this long post but thought id include as much info as possible to get best results.

Ok I will admit I got the car about 6 month ago and almost immediately got an aftermarket subwoofer placed in the boot of the car. The make and model if relevant is a golf r line tdi 2019 (mk 7.5). Ive had zero audio issues until a few days ago….

When driving to my partners house I had a prompt on dash stating ‘checked dip headlight beam’ both were on so thought nothing of it, however it only took me a few mins driving to notice I had zero sound coming from the back rear speakers (set fader to the front speakers and was able to hear some audio but very quiet. After the engine was turned off over night i hopped in, started engine and walla heard what i thought was sound from every speaker again.

It was only when i started driving home after a weekend I noticed theres still a massive audio decrease, all speakers including tweeters play sound no problem however sound is very subdued as if something had blown, the deep sound from low end mid and top end audio has massively deteriorated. For example the audio at around 20/25% was the perfect level and very loud previously, i can now turn it right up to 80+ volume and while fairly loud has no clarity and when my ears pressed against each door speaker i hear a less punchy clear sound.

For the subwoofer install I used a vibe LOC converter and spliced signal from rear speakers where they connect to behind the glovebox wiring loom/plug. This has all been fine for 5 month untl now.

Things ive done are hard reset the infortainment, ensured all connections are still connected where quick connects and splices are. The subwoofer did have a light on and played sound but now doesnt after I went into the glovebox to check wiring so ive possibly made matters worse now. So plan on checking the ground tomorrow and also changing the fuse located near battery and on the sub itself to rule this out.

In terms of troubleshooting, where would I go next, get a voltmeter and physically test each speaker? Purchase a new LOC converter and do the full re wire again to rule the LOC being an issue? Would a poor ground on sub or a break in connection cause a subdued sound on the surrounding factory fitted speakers due to being spliced. If all fails ill see a car audio specialist to help me through but i genuinely have a passion for audio though my car audio knowledge is limited (followed youtube guide on taking subwoofer from rear speakers to LOC converter. My next point ill do on my own is getting sub back on which may be ground etc havent checked that as it was dark and is grounded to under seat bolt to chassis of car, paint sanded off…

So started off wth rear speakers with zero audio, now all speakers have audio but lack lustre sound to a couple weeks back. And now the sub doesnt even have a power light thought this is only since i went back into the glovebox audio compartment behind cd player. If anyone can just give me steps or request more info on what you need to help matters feel free and thank you in advance

I havent been in an accident or took a knock to cause this, just happened over night.

My amp does 800 into 4, 1.5kw into 2, 2.2kw into 1.

Swapped my 4 ohm sub to a D4 so 2 ohm on the amp. Problem starts here. When I've set the gain on the previous sub using a -3db tone at 400w rms then music was regularly RMS in the 700s. But now even if i set the gain to 750w rms at a -5db tone the same songs get only around 600w worth of voltage output..... even worse when i set it to 750w rms on -3db tone. Then i get approx 400w worth of voltage in music. Monitored with oscope

This fuse is labeled RR PWR Socket. There is no such socket so will it be possible to power a small sub from this circuit? I know it is not recommended but in this case there will be nothing else on the same circuit and the subs also have 15A fuses.

The car is a J10 Qashqai and possible subs are JBL Bass Pro Nano and the Ground Zero GZCS SW-800A.

i need help i have a Kenwood amp that is lit up red no matter what i’ve done and isn’t sending anything to the subs i had checked the voltages and they where standard but i got nothing on the rca cables but im not sure if its the amp or the wiring

I have to reconnect a butt splice for my steering wheel controller, but the original installer left almost no wire length, and it’s tight reach into the cavity. Ideas?

Hey all!

I have a 2014 Honda CR-Z (my13, Aussie ZF1 Luxury) - as title, I'm looking at replacing the factory Nav (pioneer) headunit with something that has Carplay, though most importantly (which I know might be a hassle) I want to keep the factory camera, and the steering wheel controls.

Currently I've seen some suggestions for the iDatalink Maestro (ADS) SR, but resources and documents are pretty lean around the CR-Z, if anyone has experience with the Maestro SR, or has any other recommendations that’d be grand!
(Also any head unit suggestions would be greatly appreciated 🙂‍↕️)

TLDR: Carplay Head unit update, want steering wheel and factory camera to be compatible, seen iDatalink Maestro SR? Help?

Recently, I upgraded the speakers in my 22 F350 because the factory ones were just meh. I didn't put any super high end speakers in but all doors and tweeters were replaced. The difference in sound is night and day. But, there is still something missing. I went to my local audio shop, where i bought the speakers, and he suggested a DSP. He showed me one that he had in stock which is the Alpine PXE-0850X. I've never considered myself an audiophile but I feel like I'm trending that way after watching some videos on DSPs in general. Is the Alpine that I mentioned a good model? The price he gave me was approx 40% off of what I have seen them being sold for online. I may or may not continue down this rabbit hole in the future in the form of adding subs and possibly upgrading speakers again if I feel it's necessary. Will this particular model be beneficial if I decide to add more down the road? I have the basic Ford audio system with the now upgraded speakers. I know the speakers can handle more power than what my factory head unit is putting out. Would I benefit from an amp in addition to the DSP?

Thanks.

my friend bought this very cheap k2 copy and he wanted me to test and measure it. very bright from 5khz-16khz with THD less than 1%. (measured nearfield with jbox iii, umik1 and REW) basically no distortion 5khz and above.

note: I did not add any crossover on the measurement, only 1khz-20khz sweep on REW.

tweeter price around 25usd

I bought 4 6.5” speakers from ds18 in June and now they are blown, I tuned them and then after I figured out even after I set the amplifier on hpf, and had xover on 125hz at -24db on my alpine radio, my speakers were still playing significant bass, and wanted to know if there was an error on my part or what, I played them pretty loud as that’s what I bought them for, but I didn’t know if there was still supposed to be significant bass coming from the speakers even after the 2 filters, and if my problem was I just have to turn them down?

I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan with a navigation system unit which I plan to replace with a more modern CarPlay system/unit. Do y’all know where I can start looking? PS: this is a reference photo.

I've heard Bose (mazda 3 turbo hatch, Kia k5 GT) "premium," the HK in BMW (x3 and m850i gran coupe), both are not too bad imo, sounds ok to me. But the Bang & Olufsen in Audi (tried both Q5 and rs etron GT) just sounds "harsh" in comparison especially in alto and treble....

is it just me?