So I've always worked on beaters and just tightened till I can't anymore, I started working on cars when I was young so I would def not bend metal but still knew when it'd be tight enough, silly ol me forgot that once I get older and naturally stronger sometimes u can't do that, was on what I told myself would be the last turn to tighten my sway bar link and felt a slip, told myself it was probably nothing and took it one a test drive and heard a snap and clunk followed by ABS light.. atleast the new struts and spring transfers are working fine ig 🥹

Lowkey, Hyundai has been cooking with these designs lately. What do you guys think? 👀

Do I need to Change the break pads? I’m thinking it got thinned out and slipped off the rotar causing the caliber to scrape my rim

Dubai’s heat can put extra demands on a vehicle, especially its cooling system, battery and air conditioning. I think these three areas are worth paying attention to before a small symptom becomes a bigger problem.

1. Cooling system
Watch for repeated coolant loss, visible leaks or a temperature gauge rising above its normal range. If the engine overheats, stop safely and switch it off. Never open a hot, pressurised cooling system.

2. Battery and starting
High temperatures can accelerate battery deterioration. Slow cranking or inconsistent starting can be a reason to test the battery and charging system rather than replacing parts based on guesswork.

3. Air conditioning
If the cabin takes longer to cool or airflow feels weaker than usual, the cause should be investigated. Weak cooling does not automatically mean the vehicle needs more refrigerant.

One important point: Symptoms are clues, not confirmed diagnoses. A proper inspection helps identify the cause before deciding what needs repair.

For Dubai drivers, what has been the most common heat-related issue you have experienced: battery trouble, weak A/C or engine-temperature problems? What helped you identify the actual cause?

My second car sometimes sits for three or four weeks, so I have been rethinking what to keep in its small trunk. A wolfbox jump starter and inflator combo caught my attention because it covers both a weak battery and a low tire, but I am wondering whether combining the two creates more maintenance than it saves. So, a vehicle that is not driven often, would you keep a combo unit or separate tools?

For context I’ve started a project on my car to make it safer to drive at night. I do very long road trips to visit my girlfriend and since seasons exist, doing a 21 hour drive in the winter requires 60% of my drive to be in the Dark.

My question is, for my 2012 Nissan Sentra Spec-V (yes I’m modifying my Sentra, don’t judge me) will the alternator be able to handle the extra electrical load? The sticker on the alternator says it’s rated for 14V 110A which is roughly a maximum of 1500W (though I heard you should never exceed a continuous 80% power draw as that can strain it) so closer to 1200W continuous.

The lights I have installed, combined, draw a total of 210W. I have no idea how much the vehicle itself draws or how much the accessories draw, but will my alternator be able to keep up? Or should I consider upgrading?

Is this shit real?

I keep a small emergency bag in the car, and the wolfbox caught my eye because it combines a jump starter and an air pump in one unit. The space-saving part is nice, but I am not sure if combo tools are a bad idea when you really need them. If the pump drains the battery or one function fails, you are kind of stuck. Has anyone used a combined unit long enough to trust it, or do you still prefer a separate jump pack and separate inflator?

Car make and model: Honda CRV 2011

So, for some backstory I JUST got this checked by a mechanic before it really started messing up and was told I just had no radiator fluid, cool. Filled that up and still was having cooling issues and a nagging sound in the car when driving. Sounds of hissing, gurgling, car jolting and acting sluggish when accelerating, and anything like it.

Realized while driving today I lost all of my cold air and heard this horrible squeaking, popped the hood open and this hose is almost popping like there’s major issue (could be an easy fix but it’s really causing some weird issues with my car).

If anyone could let me know what this is and maybe the extend of the issue it would be helpful. I don’t want to have another mechanic brush me off saying I just didn’t fill up the radiator and charging me an arm and a leg 🫩

***apologies for the language in the video I’m a little frustrated from the issue not being resolved before.

I want to know whether the system detects resistance or keeps driving the motor when deployment is blocked. Have owners seen reliable obstruction protection, and what should be inspected after a jam?

I recorded this video of my dashboard while pulling away from a complete stop, and I'm wondering if my RPM and speed look normal and if they're correlating the way they should.

I've noticed that when I'm stopped at a red light or stop sign and start accelerating, my car feels sluggish and doesn't seem to pick up speed as quickly as the other cars around me. It almost feels like the car is heavy when I'm trying to get moving. I'm not sure if I'm just not accelerating hard enough or if something could be wrong.

My car only has around 28,000 miles, so I'm wondering if this is normal or if there could be an issue with the engine or transmission. I don't know much about cars, so I'd really appreciate any insight from people who know what they're looking at. Does anything in the video seem unusual?

Yesterday, my 2012 VW Golf suddenly stalled while I was driving. The car was shaking, the steering became extremely difficult to turn, and the EPC and battery warning lights came on. I turned the engine off and on again and I got it run just enough to get it on the side of the road to get towed.

Tow guy came, started it and it ran normally. He got to drive it up the towing truck and down and park it to the car shop just fine.

Today, the car shop diagnostic scan showed no fault codes so they suggested I bring it to a European car specializing car shop. Anybody else had this happen to their car??

Hi

Just looking for some advice on what to do in this situation.

Today I took my car in for its MOT, it failed its first one due to the track rod end ball dust cover and the anti roll bar ball dust cover needing replacing both on the front left side. This work was carried out by the same garage who then passed the MOT and I collect the car this evening.

I left the garage and started to drive home, upon merging on to a parkway I break slightly and the whole car shock violently for around 30 seconds at around 60mph. Fair to say both me and my 4 year old who was in the back were a little spooked!!

Around another 800 meters later I came to a stop at a traffic lights, same shaking when I breaked. Then I could not move! The front left wheel had become completely detached from the steering rod. The RAC came out, reattached the steering rod to get me home and advise I get it looked at again tomorrow.

What should I do about the garage? It seems like a mistake but one that could have ended up very seriously?

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to add an underseat sub to my 2014 Hyundai i30. Budget is roughly £300. Keeping my boot space clear is a non-negotiable, so it absolutely has to be an underseat unit.

I've upgraded my head unit so I have dedicated RCA subwoofer outputs, so I'll be running a low-level RCA signal to this Sub.

I'm not expecting chest-rattling bass from a underseat subwoofer but I just want the absolute closest I can possibly get to this.

Between the SL2 and the Nano, which one would be best?

Are there any other options under or around £300 that outperform the JBLs?

Thanks in advance!

Per the pictures, have this small chip just next to the passenger door knob. Wondering what your recommendations are to best fix this. Obviously a major concern is the rust.

Thanks!

Kia Forte5 GT Limited, 2023

For my 2001 subaru forester when I turn off my car and take they keys out my lights won't turn off. Does anyone know what could fix this??

I want to make the interior of my Nissan Qashqai quieter, currently I have some kind of rattling, other noises when drive over uneven road patch, pothole etc. Would appreciate an advice from someone who deal with this issues. Thanks.

So I've always worked on beaters and just tightened till I can't anymore, I started working on cars when I was young so I would def not bend metal but still knew when it'd be tight enough, silly ol me forgot that once I get older and naturally stronger sometimes u can't do that, was on what I told myself would be the last turn to tighten my sway bar link and felt a slip, told myself it was probably nothing and took it one a test drive and heard a snap and clunk followed by ABS light.. atleast the new struts and spring transfers are working fine ig 🥹

The only issue I had in my truck prior to cleaning this was when I got to a stop sign. Sometimes my car would rev up at RPMs and then drop almost like it wanted to stall. But it did not stall. It’s Been a few weeks since that happened although, when you stop at a stop sign, it still wants to jump forward a little bit. It just doesn’t feel like it wanted to stall though ..
Now, yesterday after cleaning this and putting k&n filter oil on it. My truck was about to stall at a red light after the RPMs jumped. I got to a parking space put it in park. Car stalled. Turned it off. Back on left it for two minutes and then stalled again after RPM jumped. Any ideas what it could be? .

My car (2009 Honda Civic) has gotten both professional and garage work done on it quite a few times since I got it.

Most recently, my compressor bracket snapped off so the serpentine belt came off.

I had a new air compressor and the works done last year professionally.

I had a trusted garage mechanic look at my car this time. During the repairs he found a few other issues I.e. a snapped wire, control arm bushings popped, and a head gasket failure/leaking coolant into the oil/possibly cracked engine chassis all due to the bracket snapping while driving on the freeway.

He said it would be best to get a professional diagnosis.

I already invested in our current repairs. I fear I'm going to spend a lot on towing, diagnostics, and repairs for a barely drivable car that'll break down again a year.

Idk what the best option financially.

The car dealership I bought it from is near the garage it's currently at, so if I can sell it to them for parts and get a difference owed situation with them for a new car I rather tow it to them but idk if they'll rip me off for that.

Hi everyone. I have a honda accord sport 2016. This piece cracked and i am hearing this noise sometimes when i am driving. I believe it's scraping the road at times. Does anyone know what this piece is called. Located by left rear wheel

My older SUV sometimes sits for several weeks, so I keep a wolfbox available instead of assuming another driver will be nearby when the battery is weak. The part I am unsure about is storage: leaving it in the vehicle means it is available away from home, but bringing it inside makes regular charge checks easier and avoids long periods in extreme temperatures. How do you store and check a lithium jump pack for a vehicle that is not driven often?

My grandpa passed recently and left me his old car which was incrediblly helpful because i needed a daily driver but now im stresing about ruining it. I live in the Rust Belt and the roads are covered in brine and slush. The original tan carpet is already getting that white salt crustt in the fibers and i feel awful watching it happen just from driving to work every day. I want to deal with it before moisture starts sitting against the floorboards and causing rust. I’ve been looking at heavyduty winter liners that can hold slush and road salt but a lot of what I see online looks like generic plastic.

Should i buy thick universal rubber mats from an auto parts store and trim them ?? I’m not much of a car guy. I just want to keep this car going for him.