Alright so before I whisk my PC away to MicroCenter again I figured I'd consult Reddit first this time. Also, so sorry this is about to be a novel but I want to include all the necessary details! I have pretty minor knowledge of PCs and this is my first gaming PC so bear with me lol.

Background info - June:
I kept encountering an issue with my PC suddenly freezing and then restarting itself. No BSOD, it would just freeze or go to a black screen and then restart. Usually when this happened, I wasn't doing any more than some light browsing or watching a Youtube video. I figured out how to check error logs in Event Viewer and kept finding "Kernel Power Event ID 125 (Cat 86)" at the time of the crash - didn't know what that meant exactly but figured it was a good thing to note when I took it to MC. I also found a log with this info right before the "Critical" event:

ACPI thermal zone _TZ.TZ00 has been enumerated.            
_PSV = 0K            
_TC1 = 0            
_TC2 = 0            
_TSP = 0ms            
_AC0 = 353K            
_AC1 = 328K            
_AC2 = 323K            
_AC3 = 318K            
_AC4 = 313K            
_AC5 = 0K            
_AC6 = 0K            
_AC7 = 0K            
_AC8 = 0K            
_AC9 = 0K            
_CRT = 378K            
_HOT = 0K            
minimum throttle = 0            
_CR3 = 0K

I took it to MicroCenter twice during this time, and both times they could not find ANY hardware or software issues. I'm not sure what all the diagnostic testing consisted of, but I do know they were using the FFXIV benchmark test and had zero issues whatsoever. The 2nd time I brought my PC back to them I said the issue was specifically occurring while I was watching Youtube. They had some random YT video playing on it for hours with zero issue, while using Microsoft Edge as the browser. I then assumed that the issue was that I was using OperaGX as my main browser and that was somehow overheating my PC, so I stopped using that and switched to Edge. For a couple of months everything then seemed to be okay.

September 16:

Encountered a minor error again with freezing and restarting, but only happened a couple times. Ran sfc /scannow which repaired a corrupt file, then updated my NVIDIA drivers and everything seemed fine again for a while.

Now:

A couple days ago I had another random freeze, but I wasn’t even actively doing anything at the time. Just had my browser open with Discord and Pinterest tabs open. I was on my phone for a few minutes, went back to my PC and it was frozen. Figured it was a fluke, shrugged it off. I’ve been playing the Witcher 3 lately for a few hours at a time and haven’t encountered any issues during the game until today. Just tried to hop on and it froze my PC twice. The difference in the last few times the crash has happened is that my PC isn’t restarting itself, just freezing/totally unresponsive so I have to hold down the power button to reboot. Looked at Event Viewer and I’m finding the same “ACPI thermal zone _TZ.TZ00 has been enumerated” code each time before the Critical error line. Ran sfc /scannow and results came back with no issues. Tried the FFXIV benchmark again and that also froze this time so if I do end up taking it back to MC maybe they'll actually be able to do something this time..

Not sure what other diagnostics I can do on my own.

What the actual heck is going on with my computer lol???

System Info:

• Processor: 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-11400F @ 2.60GHz (2.59 GHz)
• Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti (6 GB)

System

Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M DS3H WIFI (Rev 1.3)

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600G, GPU: RTX 5060

RAM: 4x 8GB XPG Gammix D30 DDR4-3200 (same model and brand, all four)

BIOS: updated to F70c (latest)

Problem

I had 2x8GB working and added 2 more identical sticks. With all 4 installed, only 2 sticks were detected. Each stick works alone, in pairs, and in any 3-stick setup. All four slots work on their own.

What I tried

Reseated the sticks and cleared CMOS (battery removed)

Checked slot layout: Channel A is DDR4_2/4, Channel B is DDR4_1/3

Updated BIOS to F70c with Q-Flash

XMP off and memory on Auto (2667 MHz, 1.20V): still only 2 sticks

Set the multiplier manually to 21.33 (2133 MHz) and DRAM voltage to 1.35V

Current situation

CPU-Z shows 32GB with 8GB in all 4 slots. Task Manager still says "Slots used: 2 of 4", which seems inconsistent. I'm at 2133 MHz / 1.35V now.

Title might be wrong, but..

I want to share a folder from a computer. I have shared the folder, but when trying to access the folder from another computer it asks for credentials. I have tried every credential i can think of:
My name, the 5 letter user, my microsoft account, guest, admin. You name it.

File sharing is on for both private and public networks, CIF/Samba is installed/on, network discovery is on. I have tried EVERYTHING.

I cant get past the credentials log on. What to do? What ARE the credentials?

I have a Samsung Galaxy S20 5G that's worked fine for years even in spite of many cracks and wear. However, since yesterday night the screen display has been constantly shaking and overlaying on top of itself, as well as constantly flashing. All the phone's functions appear to still be working, including the touchscreen, but it's just impossible to see what I'm doing. Is this fixable, or do I need to get a new phone?

I have hp victus ,rtx 4050 Intel i7, windows 11 , when I open search bar , the whole thing goes blank, theres nothing completely blank

So I recently bought a Gigabyte Gaming A16 Laptop - Intel/ Gtx 5050. First day it drove me crazy because the Gimate AI controls everything and keeps switching the graphic card from Intel to Nvidia. So after that i kept working and there was an issue with the Adobe After Effects playback. I searched everywhere for solutions, but nothing was found and even the AI couldn’t fix it. But after all that suddenly the wifi 🛜 icon started to keep disappearing, and in Device Manager, it always shows Error (CODE 10 / CODE 43). Updated the drivers, updated bios and done a full reset. Still the same problem.
Does anyone know how to fix this ?

so I was playing a game and randomly the panel to switch between hdmi 1 2 3 and display port and so I accidentally hit display port and now it says cable won't connect I have a benq zowie monitor and I tried unplugging the cables and still dont work it says its on hdmi 2 any fixes?

Hi, I bought a "SATA to 4/5 port NGFF 3.5 inch JBOD" card (brand TISHRIC, AliExpress). The manual says a Support CD with JBOD_Repair_Tools.exe should be included, but mine came without it and the seller doesn't respond.

Without the tool, the card only shows a 596 GB placeholder disk (even with no SSDs inserted), and initializing it fails with an I/O error / "fatal hardware error". All 5 SSDs (M.2 SATA, B+M key) are tested and working.

Device details:

- Shows as: LT DISK JBOD_5 BAY, firmware SCEMJ2.1 (via smartctl)

- Board: ENCNF5S-H01 VER006 (ITHOO)

- Controller: Initio/Sage INIC6611

- System: Windows 11, card connected via SATA-to-USB 3.0 adapter with 12V power supply

Does anyone have this tool or a download link from their seller? Thanks!

I spilled some soda on my keyboard this morning and it immediately started typing. I unplugged it and started to dry it off. After seeing how bad it was I took it completely apart and gave it a full wipe down inside and out. I set it aside to make sure it dried and grabbed a spare I had lying around. As soon as I plugged this one in it keeps typing and hitting buttons. Its hitting every key, taking screenshots, Windows key, typing randomly. I unplug this keyboard and it stops.

I restart the PC and as soon as I plug any keyboard in it starts typing again. I tried the keyboard on my old laptop and it works just fine.

I tried uninstalling the keyboards from device manager and that didn't fix it. It only types when any keyboards plugged in, regardless of what keyboard and no matter which USB.

(apologies for any confusing stuff, computers are not my thing and I really don't know what I'm doing 😭) I have a mac book air on Sequoia 15.6.1. I am trying to clean up my desktop but one of my apps won't delete or move. If I try to move it to the trash, it tells me it can't complete the action because the app "isn't downloaded" even though I can open and use the app just fine. It also won't let me move it elsewhere from the desktop or just hide it in my applications folder. When I click "show contents" the contents folder says "error" and if I click into it all of the sub-folders say "waiting to update." I tried re-downloading the app from the app store to update it, but I don't think that did anything. How do I delete the app? Or at least hide it so it's not on my main screen?

Hi guys, so for the past 2 days I've been getting random screen blackouts and crashes while playing a game on my PC. The PC restarts itself and I get the display on. Things I've done so far:

1. Ran OCCT Stability Test - No GPU errors
2. DDU Reinstall of Driver 617.14

There is no explanation for the blackscreen crash and it happens at random times. The GPU Temps and everything is normal. Can anyone pls help out?

Hey, I’ve been dealing with random PC crashes/restarts for months. Sometimes they happen frequently, other times the PC runs fine for days or weeks.
WinDbg shows DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION (0x133), pointing to nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA driver).
I’ve already tried DDU, clean driver installations, different driver versions, and multiple software fixes, but the issue keeps coming back.
I’m starting to suspect my Gigabyte GPU might be faulty, but RMA would require expensive international shipping to Germany.
How can I reliably pinpoint whether it’s the GPU itself, PSU, motherboard/PCIe, or a driver conflict before spending money on an RMA?
I haven’t tested the GPU in another PC yet. Any suggestions for narrowing this down would be appreciated!

I've had this device for around 3 years and I've been having quite some problems for a while (I am also unsure whether the post flair is correct, this could either be a software or hardware issue). For the wider context, the problem I've been facing for a while is that on each startup, the computer would get into an auto-repair loop and eventually it would prompt me with BitLocker key input and afterwards it would show that the problem couldn't be repaired - the problem being with the SrtTrail.txt file at D:\Windows\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt and afterwards showing me advanced start-up options. The glaring issue is that I don't have system files at the drive D but of course drive C, so it was weird that it was looking for them there. From what I've found this is a relatively common issue, but none of the suggested solutions I've found seemed to helped.

Before the eventual factory reset, I've tried:

- uninstalling Windows updates; at one point it wouldn't even let me as it ran into a problem during the process each time

- solving it through command prompt window through advanced start-up; I can't say what exactly I was doing, as I didn't get far anyways, but I was following this video; I couldn't proceed through the second line of code as it could not find the path at all

Now for a while I ignored this issue, foolishly, as after the whole loop when it put me into advanced start-up options it allowed me to then boot up the computer as normal without any other issues afterwards. But, surprise surprise, last week the problem got worse. I was using the computer in-class (on battery) and it suddenly rebooted - everything went black, the usual start-up screens appeared and then it normally turned on. I didn't think much of it at first, because this type of reboot while on battery power was relatively normal basically since day one (another problem I foolishly ignored). But then it happened twice more and I knew something was up. I turned the computer off completely and waited until I get home. When I got home and plugged the computer in, the problem persisted. Whenever the computer booted, within like 5 minutes it would automatically reboot. It did this whenever I was on chrome, browsed computer files or just left it idle. The only time it didn't reboot was when playing games, I could have a 2 hour (or longer) session of Total Warhammer 3 with no issues at all, but within 5 minute of opening a web browser or closing the game, the computer would reboot.

So this weekend I finally decided to do a factory reset. However, the reset itself did not go smoothly:

- first time around I only did a reset which leaves the files intact and only uninstalls apps; this didn't do anything at all and when it booted after the reset, everything was the same (with the problem persisting)

- then I did a full reset including apps as well. The first time it did not work out fine, when windows was installing, the computer started a reset loop which made the installation impossible, so I had to hard reboot it into advanced start-up and initiate a second factory reset

- the second reset concluded without an issues

The reset fixed the problem of frequent reboots, however many are still left:

- the computer still starts into a brief auto-repair loop, however it seems to work this issue out and doesn't prompt me with BitLocker key afterwards, nor does it show advanced start-up options

- while the computer now doesn't reboot every 5-ish minutes while on chrome, it still reboots while idle for like 30 minutes (which is the same time I have for putting the device to sleep while idle); when it reboots, it shows the screen saying something along the lines of "the device wasn't able to boot properly" and prompts me with advanced start-up options

- it doesn't turn off, instead it instantly reboots into the sign-in screen, with the only way to turn it off being through the power button

- the taskbar doesn't show things on the right, i.e. the time and date, badges, apps running on the background etc.

- when I cycle the modes for my fans (i.e. quiet, performance, turbo) it doesn't show what mode it is on

I am at my wits end. I don't know what else to do outside of another factory reset and I can't afford a new computer right now. Could it be an SSD issue? Or perhaps a motherboard problem? I do clean the computer myself using compressed air and it took like two cleanings before I found out you shouldn't let the fans spin. But that was a while ago and I figure the problems would have arisen earlier.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions.

Here are my specs:

OS Name Microsoft: Windows 11 Home

Version: 10.0.26100 Build 26100.1

System Model: ASUS TUF Gaming A15 FA506NC_FA506NC

Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 7535HS with Radeon Graphics, 3301 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s)

Installed RAM: 32 GB

i’ve noticed this problem with my pc for the last few months. I have a two monitor setup (main: Samsung Odyssey G8 3840x2160, 240hz. secondary: ROG XG27VQ 1920x1080, 120hz) and use displayport and hdmi. i’ll either be idling or mid game and my main monitor will suddenly flash off and turn back on by itself, with an occasional glitch before switching off. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. When i set the hz to something lower like 120 the flashing rarely (but still) happens.

Another thing i’ve noticed which bothers me the most are these random white lines that will appear on my main screen, it was way worse before to the point where 240hz was practically unusable. My secondary monitor doesn’t suffer from randomly turning off or any white lines that i’ve noticed, sometimes when i open an application the screen “bugs out” (best way i can put it) but that’s all i’ve noticed.

I don’t know much at all about gpu artifacting or what the real issue could even be, my gpu doesn’t overheat and stays in normal ranges consistently, my cpu doesn’t overheat or use up 99% all the time, my apps actually run perfectly fine and there’s no real visual disturbances other than my monitor literally turning off on me

i’ve done my best with my homework into finding a fix but so far all the solutions i’ve worked on so far are:

Changing the displayport cable to a recommended one and making sure it’s functional

Updated all the graphics drivers

plugged my monitor into an appropriate power supply with surge protection

messed with the refresh rate

idk what else to do really! i’ve heard about fresh installing windows as a fix but should i think of this as a gpu issue or monitor issue?? any help would be greatly appreciated!

CPU: Ryzen7 9800X3D
GPU: 5070ti
RAM:32gb
SSD:4tb

Whenever I go idle (for around 5-10 minutes) on my lenovo legion 5i laptop, the polling rate of my 1000hz mouse drops drastically to around 60hz. I’ve tried turning off a bunch of power saving options and checked cpu usage but nothing seems to work.

I have a Precision 5550, when i first got it the audio was cutting in and out and the audio logo would display an x beside it like it was muted before going back to normal every second. I've tried updating everything to fix this and I found that stoping Waves Audio sevices in services.msc fixes it but i"m looing for a reason why this would happen and a permanent fix.

Does anyone know whythis would happen

Hey! It's my first time using Reddit, but since I know people sometimes find solutions here, I'm giving it a try!

I have a Samsung A05s and it works great, except yesterday my audio suddenly stopped working! (I couldn't hear videos, audio messages, calls, alarms, basically nothing unless I used my headphones).

This had happened to me before so I waited, and today it's kinda solved....

When I call someone on Snapchat I get the ringing tone, during calls I have sound until I turn on the speakerphone, then nothing! I don't have notification sounds, alarms, and still no video sound!

In short, I hear the person calling me and when I call on Snapchat, but otherwise nothing at all! Unless I use my headphones.

It's pretty frustrating because my phone works great! A bit old maybe, and this is the only real annoying problem, especially for alarms and notifications! Does anyone have a solution !

So recently I was on a popular message site on desktop, and while attempting to make a post I was rejected and temporarily blocked from posting due to suspicious activity from my IP area, which I thought was weird.

Today on mobile, I had Reddit open and was scrolling when it suddenly stopped loading, and it's now giving me a message saying "your request has been blocked by network security".

Now I'm thinking I should do something about this as it's happened twice now. Should I do something about it? What are my options?

A few years ago my iphone broke, pretty sure it was smth with the battery. I remember for the last few days it worked it would take hours to charge to 1% and then stay at 0% for like 40 minutes before turning off. I have some stuff in there I'd rather not lose, is there any way to bring it back just for long enough to transfer the data from it? I didn't touch it since getting a new phone and now I have tried charging it for 40+ hours and it just doesn't do anything anymore...

I am trying to upgrade my memory from 32 >96 gb for local AI tinkering but the dimm's won't train.

Current memory trains and runs fine. I have now tried installing 2 separate sets of 48 x memory, but while they pass memtest 86, neither will train fully, the orange memory light just sits on forever/overnight without turning off or booting all the way into windows.

At the suggestion of Google I have tried all of the following, individually and in combination:

1. turning off expo

2. installing one dimm at at a time (still doesn't finish training after >45 minutes)

3. installing one dimm at a time in secondary rather than primary memory slot

4. clearing cmos

5. updating bios to most recent release, updating bios to older more "stable" releases (currently running bios 1654 released in April)

6. turning off memory context restore

7. manually setting ram speed to 4800 mhz

My whole system is only about 1 year old and thus far used rarely for dad gaming:

Asus ROG Strix B-850i gaming wifi mobo

AMD 9800x3d

Asus Prime 5070ti

Samsung 9100 pro 2tb ssd

G.SKILL Flare X5 Series 32GB (2x16GB) Up to 6000MT/s* CL36-36-36-96 1.35V (F5-6000J3636F16GX2-FX5)

Corsair SF 1000 PSU

Coolermaster Atmos II 240mm AIO

COOJ SF5 case

Windows 11

I have tried both of the memory kits, purchased new from Newegg:

G.SKILL Flare X5 96GB (2 x 48GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6000 (PC5 48000) Desktop Memory Model F5-6000J3036F48GX2-FX5

G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 96GB (2 x 48GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5200 (PC5 41600) Desktop Memory Model F5-5200J4040A48GX2-RS5K

Neither will finish training but after popping the old memory back in the system boots right back up with no issues. What am I doing wrong?

Reddit please help!

So I’m getting a new phone. The problem is my dad doesn’t want me to transfer like a normal person onto my new phone. He wants me to reset my phone. Yes the iCloud backup does back stuff up but it logs me out of everything and I gotta manually log into everything. My cousin told me that I can do a computer backup and it will save everything. But he refuses to help me. What do I do? How can I back up everything?

Going from an iPhone 12 to iPhone 13

Hi there,

So recently I've noticed that my cursor gets stuck in place, I move the mouse around but it seems like there's a wall in the way where the cursor can't get past, unless I keep moving the mouse and the cursor then jumps in place. But then it can randomly go back to normal for a bit.

I've looked around and people say to update drivers, BIOs etc. but nothing seems to work.

Hope this is the right place for it. I am using a SM7B and running it through a Cloudlifter that’s connected to a Scarlett 2i2. I am recording for YT through OBS and when I go back to watch the video there is fuzziness when I speak. I’ve done a few test recordings but this is the first time it’s done this.

On an additional note, if anyone knows the best setting configurations between the 2i2 gain and OBS to ensure my game and voice aren’t too loud (and the game isn’t overpowering my voice) that would be extremely helpful as well (as I’ve noticed it’s much louder in the recording.

Thanks in advance.

This is a bit silly, but my mother was helping me move out and she placed a tub of vaseline in a box which held some electronic equipment, namely an Apollo Twin interface. Some time in the move the tub came open and now the interface is covered in vaseline. How can I go about cleaning it and mitigating damage?

My second monitor on my work desktop stopped working all of a sudden. Desktop is Dell optiplex 9020. First working monitor is dell p2414hb monitor. Second monitor that stopped working is dell 1908fpb monitor. I press the power button on the second monitor and it comes on and shows my desktop and everything for a second then goes black. The computer still detects the second monitor and I can move tabs and my mouse over to that monitor but it’s just black. The whole set up is old as hell (thank you academia) and I can’t even update windows anymore cause it’s too old. Did it just die and it’s a lost cause or is there something I can try? I have tried restarting the computer, restarting the graphics driver, and unplugging all the cords on the second monitor and holding down the power button then waiting then plugging it all back in to no avail.