Super pumped, tried it last night and it feels awesome. Takes some fine tuning but man it is fun once the software is locked in.

Chair is going soon, but keyboard tray blocks stick in front of chair so maybe one on each side? On top of desk is uncomfortable after a few hours of DCS. Any ideas?

Retro

I saw a few for sale in my country. And I don't know if it's worth buying one.

Hey everyone!

I recently bought the Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS One Microsoft Flight Simulator Edition, but I find it way too light. Whenever I apply a bit of force to the joystick, the base lifts off or moves around.

I'm also not a big fan of the all-plastic build. It feels a bit cheap.

Do you have any suggestions for keeping it stable, or would you recommend a different model or brand with better build quality?

I mainly play MSFS 2024, but I'm also planning to use it for DCS, War Thunder, Star Citizen, etc.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

I’m curious how other HOTAS pilots are handling map navigation while flying, particularly when flying our boys to CZ/HZ and planning drop-offs.

My setup:
VKB Gladiator NXT EVO
VKB T-Rudder Mk V pedals
VelocityOne Flightdeck throttle

The problem:
Opening the map isn’t an issue. I’ve already got that bound to my stick. The problem is actually navigating it while keeping control of the helicopter.

When I open the map, it initially centers on my helicopter and shows the occupants. But as I continue flying, eventually the list of folks box drops off.

To check control zones, squad markers, requested drop-off locations, or potential landing zones, I need to zoom out, pan around, and zoom back in. Currently, that means taking my hand off the flight controls to use my mouse and scroll wheel.

Not exactly ideal with my setup..

What I’m trying to figure out:
Has anyone successfully mapped mouse movement to an analog stick or hat switch on their equipment to use while in the map?
Can you pan/drag the map and zoom in/out entirely using your stick or throttle?

Are you using software to accomplish this, if so - which?

What configurations have worked best for you?

Ultimately, I’d like to navigate the map without ever taking my hands off the flight controls.

I’m probably going to remove the VKB THQ from the EVO and move the EVO to the right side of the mouse - but, question still stands - I’d like to keep the ability to navigate the map onto either the throttle/stick or both.

I was thinking of doing a bet with my brother where we have to complete challenges on regular games, but using a hotas instead of a controller.

What are some games that would be really stupid to play with a hotas setup?

Title. I finally added Logitech G Pro Flight Rudder Pedals, after dusting off my X24 professional HOTAS (yes for wardogs but I used it for elite dangerous and arma years ago)

The stick and throttle are acceptable (though there are likely better options?) But there is a pronounced 'bump' to move the Pedals away from, and through, neutral making fine adjustments from side to side difficult.

Do other pedals have this.. feature?

been checking every morning and was just able to order

cant wait

is there an easy way for me to mod my X56 toggle switches on the throttle so they hold position instead of resetting to center? i want to flip them, it sends the signal as normal and then hold it's position, then when flipping them off/centering them, it sends the previous signal again.

i.e
Flip up (pulse) > Hold position
Flip Center (Pulse last position)
Flip Down (pulse) > Hold Position

Barely used, ad with seller profile here:

https://tweakers.net/aanbod/4237382/winwing-f15-ex-hotas.html

Can ship mainland EU. Offers welcome

Hey guys, I will be hosting a training seminar on my Discord this Saturday, Oct 17th at 11am EST. I'll be going over setup procedures for the IRCam XTR as well as going through Opentrack and explaining all of its features and what they do. If you've purchased an IRCam and it hasn't arrived yet, you can still attend or wait until it arrives and attend a training at a later date. I won't be hosting training on a regular schedule, but if you need help just drop a message on my discord or message me directly and I'll get one scheduled with you. My username on discord is Hollywood83.

Try to arrive a few minutes early so we can get started at 11. The training will take place in the tech support channel on my discord.

Also, even if you don't own a IRCam XTR, you are still welcome to attend. The setup portion for the cam will be fairly short, so this will mostly be Opentrack training, and is open to anyone who wants to attend. I'll be sharing my screen and bouncing back and forth between Opentrack and DCS to show the effects of settings changes and how to optimize them, so those principles will still apply if you're using a PSEye cam or your own DIY camera setup.

Here is an invite link to my discord: https://discord.gg/huaVgxvNGy

My early Christmas sale is still running through Sunday the 18th and my etsy shop is located here: rjsimtech.etsy.com. This will be the last sale of 2026, so if you've been wanting to pick up an IRTrackStar or IRCam, now is the time to do it. Lead times will begin extending into 27' fairly soon.

I played Ace Combat 8 on a controller, and it was so much fun, and it made me want to get a HOTAS.

As I will be getting my very 1st HOTAS this 1 seems pretty low cost of entry and from what I see on youtube, most people like it.

I'm aware of some other brands like the Gladiator NXT, which seems like the best stick I have researched so far, and I am considering getting that over the Thrustmaster.

My question is: Would it be better to skip the Thrustmaster in the picture and go straight for the Gladiator or get the Thrustmaster as a start?

I usually do Sim racing and have a full sim rig, but I may go into flight sim as well. I wanna start off with games where you fly and shoot stuff, not just purely fly planes, etc.

Any advice would be appreciated, but please feel free to over-explain because flight gear is completely new to me, like, 2 weeks ago new.

Turtle Beach VelocityOne Flightdeck Throttle Teardown – Removing the Excessive Resistance

I finally opened up my Turtle Beach VelocityOne Flightdeck throttle to investigate why it was so stiff. I wanted to share what I found because this might help other owners who are struggling with the same problem.

The main culprit: the friction half-moon and its grease

The biggest source of resistance is a half-moon-shaped friction component inside the throttle mechanism. It is heavily coated with a thick, damping-type grease that creates a huge amount of friction.

This component acts as a brake on the throttle movement. Underneath it, there are also two very strong springs that push it against the plate, increasing the pressure and friction even further.

I removed the half-moon component completely, including the springs associated with its friction mechanism. The difference is incredible: the throttle now moves so smoothly that I can operate it with a single finger. Before the modification, it required far too much force.

With the friction component removed, the throttle simply slides along its plastic guide rails. The half-moon assembly appears to be responsible for most of the excessive resistance.

The grease itself is very thick and seems specifically intended to create damping rather than provide low-friction lubrication. In my opinion, the combination of this grease and the strong spring pressure is the main reason the throttle feels so stiff.

Important note about the adjustment screw: If you remove the half-moon-shaped friction/braking mechanism, there is no longer any need to adjust this screw — the mechanism it was designed to regulate is gone. Be careful when tightening it, though: the plastic support that the screw presses against can crack or break if too much force is applied.

Even if you tighten the screw to reduce the pressure, the thick damping grease still creates considerable resistance. So the screw does not solve the underlying problem.

How to disassemble the throttle

Here is the order I followed:

1. Remove the eight visible screws from the housing.
2. Remove the four additional screws hidden underneath the rubber feet or covers on the bottom plate.
3. Remove the bottom plate.
4. Remove the approximately six additional screws located inside the middle section.
5. Remove the side covers. These side pieces lock the upper and lower housing sections together, so they must be removed to separate the housing properly.

Once the side covers and the remaining screws are removed, you can access the internal throttle mechanism.

Take your time and do not force the housing apart while the side covers are still attached.

My result

Removing the friction half-moon assembly made the throttle dramatically lighter and smoother. I can now move it effortlessly with one finger.

I am sharing these photos to show other Flightdeck owners what is inside and to warn everyone about the fragile plastic adjustment-screw support.

If your VelocityOne Flightdeck throttle feels excessively stiff, inspect this friction mechanism before tightening the adjustment screw. Be aware that removing the friction assembly also removes the original friction-braking function, so the throttle will no longer hold its position in the same way.

Hopefully, this helps someone else avoid breaking the plastic support or struggling with an unnecessarily stiff throttle.