A little backstory, I was driving home from work this evening when I saw a pristine Mustang King Cobra II in someone’s yard, and I’ve been in the market for a mustang for a couple months

Would it be odd to knock on his door to ask about buying it? One concern I do have is it was off a country road so it may be a little extra odd for the owner to have someone knocking at their door

Hi. I have an unusual situation regarding the title registration of a 1965 vintage motorcycle, and could really do with some help.

A few years ago, my father-in-law in PA passed away and he had a 1965 BMW R60/2 motorcycle. At the time, we couldn't find the original title document. Therefore, my sister-in-law (via power of attorney) inherited the motorcycle. As we didn't have the original title, and I said I would take on the ownership of the bike, my sister-in-law "sold" me the motorcycle and we sent a bill of sales and a registration application to Vermont as we understood that was the only way to do things without an original title. A registration document came back with a Vermont license plate. However, the registration had my sister-on-law's name on it.

After all of that, we found the original title certificate (it was a Maryland title).

If I wanted to sell this bike now, I am confused about what we would need to do? Would my sister-in-law just have to sign the transfer of ownership part on the Vermont registration to a new owner? We are all in PA.

Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks

Someone in my Focus thread the other week said the Nissan CVT was next, so I counted those too.

2015-2018, cars that shipped a CVT as the automatic across all four years. This is the share of each car's NHTSA complaints that got filed under power train:

Nissan Sentra 41%
Nissan Altima 26%
Nissan Rogue 21%
Toyota Corolla 11%
Subaru Forester 10%
Honda Civic 10%
Honda Accord 7%
Subaru Outback 5%

By brand that's Nissan 27%, Toyota 11%, Honda 8%, Subaru 7%.

So the general thing people say about CVTs doesn't really hold up. Subaru, Honda and Toyota sit in single digits to low teens, which is unremarkable for any automatic. Nissan is three to four times that, and the Sentra is the worst of the lot by a distance. Four in ten complaints about that car are the gearbox.

If you've been avoiding CVTs across the board, you've mostly been avoiding one company's.

I've been thinking about how different a scenic road can be from a genuinely enjoyable driving road.

You can have incredible mountain views, but if the road is full of traffic, the surface is terrible, or every corner has zero visibility, it isn't necessarily that much fun to drive.

On the other hand, an ordinary country road with good visibility, a nice flow between corners, and barely any traffic can be surprisingly enjoyable, even at perfectly legal speeds.

Personally, I think a good driving road needs a balance between scenery, road conditions, visibility, and traffic.

What matters most to you? And what's a road you've driven that really got that balance right?

Hi everyone! I'm conducting a High School research engineering project investigating wind buffeting when driving two-door coupes with the side windows open. I'm looking for current or recent owners of vehicles such as the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, Camaro, Dodge Challenger, and other two-door coupes to share their experiences. The survey takes less than 3 minutes and asks about your vehicle, interest, and experience with wind buffeting. Your participation is optional, but your feedback will help me better figure out how different coupe designs and driving conditions affect wind buffeting.

Survey link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdEIxSHNbodjJVZ-AD_L9DPKE3ALZ5iHlod5gZQX7eMADdgRw/viewform?usp=header

Thank you for helping with my research! Feel free to share this post with other coupe owners, if permitted by the group.

Hi there,
I'd be exaggerating to say I'm disabled but I'm an old man and it's really tough for me to kneel down to check or fill my tires these days. I know places like "10 minute oil change", Tuffy muffler" etc. will do it as part of their oil change service but I was wondering if they'd do a quick tire check and fill between oil changes.
My cars tire pressure monitor tends to go on at the slightest pressure drop. I wouldn't mind paying a few bucks just to get 'em checked and filled if need be.
Whatcha think? Any advice or chain service ideas?
Thanks.

Can someone explain why this might be happening???
Nissan Murano 2014
My car drives great until I drive uphill over 80mph. Utah highways are new to me and that’s the posted limit. The RPMs in my car go up while I’m pressing the gas and then it goes back down on its own while I’m trying to go fast. You can hear the motor is trying to work harder . It goes up and down while trying to maintain velocity. Before I take it into the shop, I’m a girl who knows nothing about cars and I don’t want to be taken advantage of going in clueless.

Its a 2019 toyota corolla ~87000 miles, the transmission needs to be replaced for about $4500. I have about 5k left on the loan and I'm not sure if I should pay to fix it or if I should get another car. Some context, I don't drive a lot and barely ever longer than 20 mins. The car guy said that I should replace the transmission sooner rather than later.

I bought a 2021 Ford Bronco sport from CarMax in September of last year. In the past year I’ve completely paid off the car (25k). It has about 75k miles. Please keep in mind I’m a 20 y/o girl and I know NOTHING about cars. It’s been constant issues since June and I don’t know what to do at this point.

Around June I had to get all breaks replaced. Then my Catalytic Converter went out like 2 weeks later. Luckily this was covered by my Ford warranty because I was under 70k miles at the time. Like a month later my check engine light came on AGAIN with the Turbo Underboost code. They said I needed a whole new turbo underboost system and I paid $3800 to repair it. My car is still shuddering and drives horribly. The shop that did the turbo told me my transmission is going.

So I’ve already spent close to $5000 on repairs this year. On top of the 25k I spent earlier this year to buy the car. Nothings covered by warranty, I never bought the CarMax extended warranty. Is there anything I can do? There’s no way a 2021 should be needing a catalytic converter, turbo underboost, and transmission in one year though right? My boyfriends dad suggest I just trade it in and get a new car but I love the car and would be so disappointed to lose so much money trading it in just ONE year later. Any advice on if I can contact Ford or CarMax? Should I just pay to fix the transmission? Or do I trade it in and take the loss?

First-gen CR-V with 150000-190000 miles for less than 5k (cash) or a Golf Sportwagen with less than 100k miles for 10-15k (5-8k down payment), which should I buy?

Looking to replace my 2005 Honda Pilot with 230k miles, I love and trust the older Honda reliability, but this was my first car, and I am tired of looking at it lol. I am comfortable with older cars, but I also want a somewhat newer car; I can't decide. I have also always wanted a wagon. I plan on doing most of my own general maintenance other than big things. I have a Saab 900, so I am no stranger to working on cars. Though I am unfamiliar with working on newer cars / not as interested in it.

Just curious what y'all have to say.

Feel free to suggest other cars! I want something fun, decent mpg, and decent reliability.

Hi everyone,

My wife and I are considering purchasing a used Audi Q7 from an Audi dealership, but we noticed something concerning during our inspection.

The rear bumper cover appears to have separated near the weatherstripping, leaving a gap of approximately half an inch. I can see some of the clips through the gap, but I can't tell whether they're broken or simply disengaged.

The Carfax report shows no accidents. However, the vehicle's official service records mention a “sensor drop off” followed by reinstallation.

I asked the sales manager to restore the bumper to its original, properly aligned condition before we purchased the vehicle. He said they could try to pop the bumper back into place if a clip was loose, but they couldn't guarantee in writing that the issue would be fixed. He also mentioned that a full rear bumper alignment could involve more extensive work.

I contacted the service manager at another Audi dealership where we regularly service our vehicles. After hearing the details, he considered this a potential red flag and said he personally would hesitate to purchase the vehicle.

For context, the bumper appears to fit flush against the body on both the left and right sides. The gap is along the rear portion of the bumper near the weatherstripping, and it appears relatively uniform.

I'm not very familiar with Audi bumper construction, so I'd appreciate input from anyone with experience in Audi bodywork or collision repair.

1. Based on the photos, what components could cause this type of gap? Could it be a loose clip, a broken retaining tab, a damaged bumper guide bracket, or something else?
2. Could the gap be related to the previous “sensor drop off/reinstallation” service record?
3. Is it possible for a bumper to have this kind of gap without the vehicle having been in an accident?
4. What would a body shop typically inspect to determine the underlying cause?
5. Would you consider this a reason to walk away from the purchase unless an independent collision center inspects it first?

I'm not asking for a repair estimate. I'm mainly trying to understand what might be causing the gap, what the inspection process should involve, and whether this is a concerning sign when buying a used Q7.

Thanks for your help!

Recently bought a Hyundai i20 Sportz (O) IVT in Bangalore. What are the must-have accessories I should buy, and which accessories should I avoid?
Looking for genuine recommendations based on your ownership experience. Thanks!

Recently bought a Hyundai i20 Sportz (O) IVT in Bangalore. What are the must-have accessories I should buy, and which accessories should I avoid?
Looking for genuine recommendations based on your ownership experience. Thanks!

I have a 2017 v6 automatic Mustang. I can’t remember the last time it’s had its transmission fluid changed but jiffy lube wanted to do it. Should I have it dumped and filled or flushed or leave it? I’m at 100,000 miles currently

First time buying a car. Want a nice, smooth, quiet ride for under $16k with a little space and okay gas mileage. Don’t want to fork over a TON for repairs and maintenance but I’m okay setting aside the money for an alright car. I’ll probably put 400-500 miles a week on it until I move somewhere else.

I obviously want it to be safe drive as well.

Is this a horrible idea? link to cars

Used 2019 Mercedes-
Benz CLA 250 - 75k miles - $15k

Used 2018 Mercedes-Benz C-Class C 300 - 54k miles - $15k

Hi all - I bought my first car and I’m looking to get it tinted. In Mass, they allow 35% tint on the front windows. My family lives in NJ where I will be driving to regularly. In NJ, no tint on front windows are allowed. Will cops pull me over and ticket me even with a Mass license plate? I will also be driving through NY which also does not allow it I believe. Would you just not get your front windows tinted if you were me? Thanks!

72667 miles, 2017 outland sport. I recently took my outlander in for transmisson work because at an oil change the mechanic told me I had very little transmisson fluid. My mechanic replaced a the CV joint. Now, when I shift gears or sometimes engage my break, I hear a faint "thump." Is this normal? Is it related to the transmission? I can post a video in the comments

Hi all,

I have a 2005 Accord sedan. 4 cylinder, 2.4L. I've been noticing lately these strange noises sometimes being made on accelerations and decelerations. In the video provided, I accelerate / decelerate about three times...although actually, to be 100% accurate, the "deceleration" is actually me just lifting my foot from the gas pedal.

I typically don't hear it all the time - Sometimes I'll be driving and not hear it at all, or maybe I'm just not noticing it. For the most part, the car is otherwise pretty smooth and turns / steers smoothly, has reasonable power, etc. For what it's worth, I do not hear these noises when not moving (i.e. pushing the gas while the car is in park).

Thanks in advance for any help.

https://streamable.com/f5wjsp

My car is shaking

Car is shaking when I brake

Hi guys. I had left a post a while back about my oil and I had some incredible amount of information and helpfulness from you guys . So I figured i would come back to you guys.
So I have a 2024 Grand Highlander .
I recently got my oil changed from the dealership and they said all the inspections passed , however , my wife said ( about a year and a half ago ) when she pressed the brakes while going fast on the interstate the car would start shaking bad .
She said she had told me but if she had I would’ve definitely got it inspected . I drive the car a ton and it has never once happened to me .

Well she is traveling 7 hours today to pick up my daughter from her grandparents and she said the shaking “ started again “
Here’s how she explains it . When she goes about 60 mph or faster and presses the brake , the car begins to shake pretty hard. My wife is definitely known to completely over state the magnitude of things . So that’s all the information I’m left with.

I googled the symptoms and they’re saying it’s most likely the brake rotors but I see on my inspection sheet that everything is checked green . I called the dealership and they said they do check those during the oil change . And it’s a pretty brand new vehicle . Yes the vehicle does have quite a few HIghway miles . But I am just mostly concerned , is she in any danger taking this road trip . The grandma is meeting us half way and she has already left . I would hate for the trip to be called off or postponed if there is not any immediate danger?

If you guys could please give me some advice or maybe ease my mind on this. Thank you so much, I will reply to every comment that is needing more information about the situation. And sorry for any typos I am not proof reading this right now due to my ability to type is far faster than my ability to read . But if it’s just a nightmare to read I will go back and edit if needed . Thank you guys

i just got an 02' gts a few weeks ago and i'm dying to have the sound system working. i got an aftermarket stereo to install and im having issues because the 12v constant has no power. i also don't know the condition of the stock speakers, so the list of upgrades keeps growing (aftermarket stereo, speakers, amp, sub) however i have no idea what i'm doing, and im just learning as i go. here are a few things im hoping someone will have an answer to:

how do i resolve having no 12v constant? do i run a wire to the battery bypassing the firewall and just splice it into the aftermarket harness?

do i need to/should i bypass the factory amp? what would i replace it with since im assuming id need a new one for the upgrades i want?

i wanted to try and save money by doing it myself, but i feel like i may be in over my head :/

My car has an SRS airbag indicator- the local approved dealer troubleshooting informs me that the cost is £1800 approx for a new inflator for the drivers airbag but cannot guarantee that this resolves the SRS problem, it’s just the first step in the line.

I’ve had no luck online seeing if the car has a recall on the issue but I’d expect them to have told me that if that was the case.

The car is a Honda civic 1.6 dtec, it’s a good car I’ve done my best to look after it. 110k miles, registered 2015.

It has £2800 remaining on a finance deal so it’s probably in negative equity with this fault.

Do I just trade it in for a new car and hope for the best deal or should I take the chance that £1800 resolved the problem, bear in mind the value of the car is likely between £3500-5000.

Any thoughts would be appreciated as I’m in a pickle on this one. MOT due in early January.

​

Hey everyone,

My current situation:

I currently drive a 2021 Toyota C-HR Hybrid with 107,000 km (66,500 miles) which i bought in June for 18 000. It's been a really good car, and I have no real complaints about it.

However, I still have around €10,000 left on my car loan, with monthly payments of approximately €220 for the next four years.

The Hyundai I'm considering:

I found a used 2017 Hyundai Ioniq Electric Premium for €13,999, with only 51,164 km (31,800 miles) on the odometer.

Here are its main specifications:

First registered in August 2017

28 kWh battery

88 kW (120 hp) electric motor

Automatic transmission

Premium trim

Heated seats (and apparently ventilated seats as well)

Blind spot monitoring

Front parking sensors

Built-in navigation

Lane departure warning

Apple CarPlay

...

Sold by a professional dealer in Belgium

A few things make it appealing to me:

it's cheaper than my current Toyota

Being fully electric, it could significantly reduce my running costs.

It seems to offer more comfort features than my C-HR.

It has considerably lower mileage, although it's obviously an older vehicle.

I live in Belgium and I'm also self-employed on the side, meaning I could potentially deduct a percentage of the vehicle's business-related expenses for tax purposes.

My driving habits:

I mostly drive around Brussels, so the majority of my trips are relatively short city drives.

Once or twice a week, I travel from Brussels to Namur, which is approximately 120 km (75 miles) round trip.

I also have the possibility of charging at home, although not necessarily every day. It would most likely be through a regular household outlet.

I know the 28 kWh Ioniq doesn't have a particularly large battery, but I've heard it's an extremely efficient EV, so I'm wondering whether its limited range would actually be an issue for my driving habits.

Here are my main concerns:

Reliability: How reliable is the original 28 kWh Hyundai Ioniq Electric compared to a Toyota C-HR Hybrid? Toyota has a fantastic reputation for reliability, and that's probably my biggest hesitation about switching.

Battery health: Considering the Hyundai is already around 9 years old, should I be worried about battery degradation even with relatively low mileage? Would you consider a State of Health (SOH) report essential before buying?

Financial sense: Would switching actually save me money in the long run, considering I still have an outstanding loan on my Toyota? I'd obviously have to account for selling my current car and paying off the remaining loan.

Depreciation: Do you think this older Ioniq will lose value significantly faster than my Toyota, especially considering how quickly EV technology and battery ranges are improving?

Real-world range: Would the 28 kWh Ioniq comfortably handle my driving habits, especially the 120 km round trips during winter, with heating on and some motorway driving?

Long-term ownership: Are there any common problems with this particular generation of Ioniq Electric that I should know about? How expensive are repairs and maintenance compared to a Toyota hybrid?

Ultimately, I'm trying to figure out whether selling my C-HR and switching to this Ioniq would be a smart financial decision, or whether I'd be better off keeping my Toyota for several more years.

I'm not looking to change cars just for the sake of it. I genuinely want to know if this could be a sensible long-term decision, especially considering the lower running costs, potential tax advantages, and the fact that the Hyundai is relatively inexpensive.

Thanks in advance and feel free to ask if you need any more clarifications !!

Hey hey,
I know absolutely nothing about cars, but I feel like I need to ask anyway…?
I have a 2018 Seat Ibiza that I bought a year ago. I knew the brake discs needed replacing when I bought it, so I got that sorted.

I took it to a friend who owns a garage, and everything was fine and dandy for about 10 months until the discs warped AGAIN. I had them replaced again, this time at known repair shop in Sweden, and I pointed out that I’d only had them replaced fairly recently. Their only theory was that maybe I’d driven through a puddle when the discs were really hot (I honestly have no idea).

Now it’s been two months since the last replacement, and the steering wheel vibrates and the whole car judders when I brake. AGAIN.

I took it back to repair shop today, and they replaced the discs and brake pads free of charge. They told me they’d checked the wheel bearings and brake calipers, and had test-driven the car about seven times because everything was supposedly within spec and the car shouldn’t feel like that when braking. They also said the discs had warped again. This time, they made sure to clean everything extra, extra thoroughly, apparently.

But I can’t help overthinking that something else must be wrong. What could possibly be causing this to keep happening?

For context, I drive very gently and pretty much only use the car to commute to and from work.
Sorry if I’ve got some of the terminology wrong, but I really don’t understand cars

Edit: thanks everyone for your input! Really appreciated

Most of my driving is an uneventful commute, so a camera feels unnecessary right up until someone runs a light, changes lanes without looking or gives a completely different version of a parking-lot incident. I am not expecting it to prevent anything; I am trying to understand whether the occasional evidence is worth another device on the windshield. What changed your mind, and did you choose something simple or end up wanting more coverage later?

Just bought a used car from a dealership didn’t notice this glue on a few parts curious what the gameplay to remove it would be.

https://imgur.com/a/rW9EDYG I’m taking the car back today to get something check gonna ask them to fix it but on the off chance they don’t, what would remove this? I also noticed make-up stuck on the seats as well.