He told me it was done in the early 2000s. Never seen or heard of this conversion. Red one is mine

The plan is to eventually replace the stock rims with some Advan GT's, but in the meantime I was wondering what ya'll think about gold on black/blue?

We're FOJI Raceworks, an MX-5 workshop in Cornwall, UK.

This is our manifold for low mount turbo setups with external gates, designed to keep everything tucked and refined.

This one is for a customer's forged 1.8 VVT.
It's going to be a full package, with the turbo support, oil lines, water inlet and routing all packaged around the low mount setup.

It was drawn in our own 3D tool, which we built around parts development for Mazdas.

Beautiful seats they just arrived, gonna be a pain to mount though

I want to repaint my 1994 with the 67 Shelby gt500 white blue stripes the car is already white it would just need the blue stripes would any of yall know a shop in Minnesota or semi surrounded states?

Feels like I’m home again :)

My ND3 2.0 2025 started having transmission issues around 16.000km. Same issue as described in this post.
Took it to the local dealer, they confirmed that this will be covered under warranty after consulting with Mazda. It took a couple of weeks until the new gearbox was delivered. I was driving the car in the meantime, avoiding shifting from 4 to 3.
The car stayed with them for 2 days and I got a free replacement car for the duration of the repair.
The gearbox now shifts great and the humming noise it made when in neutral as well as the whining noise during driving that I thought was normal is gone.

I was aware that this happens to NDs and that was the biggest reason I bought an almost new car with warranty, and now I can say it has paid off because the total repair cost is 5102 eur (5700 usd), and I haven’t paid anything.

Hopefully the new gearbox will live longer 🤞🏻

Dad got one from 1990 red and 36 years later I got one for myself. Keeping the tradition.

Ok so I’m completely torn I’m looking for a realizable fun car to daily to work. This z3 is in amazing condition at only 116k miles, bone stock as well. On the other hand the Miata is around 130k miles and comes with the hardtop. It also has some new engine mounts installed and some upgraded suspension components as well as some enkeis. Only thing driving me away from the Miata is that it has a valve cover leak. I know this is a common thing but as a daily driver I am kinda concerned about it. For anyone who has knowledge on either your input would be greatly appreciated.

Forgot to mention the nb also does not have ac atm so that’s another deciding factor.

My '91 NA started making a new noise today. It's accompanied by a burning smell. Any idea what's causing this? I suspect a belt, but I wanted to consult the council.

Hi guys, I have a question, my clutch was sounding weird so I replaced my trowhout bearing, Is this play normal? Or is the fork or something else bad? I would really appreciate you guys help, would be a pain if that wasn't the issue and make me drop the transmission again, my car is a 94 na

CMC-01 15x7 wheels with ceramic polish treatment and Nardi Teardrop 5 speed knob. Things are coming along! Very happy with my ride. I’m rubbing on my driver side front fender liner though. It should be able to be heat gunned and shaped for clearance of these Yokohama’s. I just need that and an alignment and I think I’m happy for a good long time 😀

Made a post yesterday asking if my engine had knock.

It sounded pretty bad but I opened it up, checked the timing and it was fine, torqued everything back down to spec and re seated my crank pulley. Thoughts? Couldn't really keep it running too long with everything disconnected but I'll be putting it back together tomorrow regardless. I still hear some kind of rhythmic noise but it seems much quieter at least and sounds much less immediately alarming. Still not 100% sure if this thing is knocking or not.

After car got warmed up I noticed the tac bouncing a little like it's seen in the video when in neutral. Car revs fine and doesnt die when going from gear -> neutral.

It's been a minute since i've driven an older manual car. Trying to see if this is normal, or if I need to go through the process of a vacuum leak; ISCV; CAS; plugs; etc.

My 240k mile 1.6 finally kicked the bucket at the track and im in the process of replacing it with a low mile motor. The old motor leaked oil from basically everywhere, but it was always had a leak at the rear exhaust side of the block that I couldnt find the source of. The new old motor is pretty clean, except for oil weeping in that same spot. The head is dry and clean (no oil leaking from the valve cover or CAS), inside of the bell housing is dry (no oil coming from rear main), so where the heck could the oil coming from?? Head gasket would be the only place left I can think of, but none of the motors are exhibiting failed head gasket symptoms. I assume the freeze plugs are only for the coolant passages, so cant be from there. Any help is appreciated.

(Ignore the moistness along the top of the block, that's from PB Blaster on the exhaust studs. Oil leak is accumulated mainly behind the dipstick under the #4 exhaust port)

ADOPT is now an authorized supplier of NOPRO parts, from the Miata platform specialists that develop and run products for the MURAKAMI MOTORS MX-5 entry in the Super Taikyū supertouring endurance racing series.

NOPRO products are 10% off while we batch initial orders. We plan to import their NC hardtops sometime early next year.

MANUFACTURER: NOGAMI PROJECT (NOPRO)
VENDOR: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS

MSRP: $440
-10%: $400

NOPRO toe lockout/toe cancellation arms for the NC are by far the most popular product we get requests for. These arms remove the NC's dynamic toe change under heavy cornering loads, removing skittish, unstable, or otherwise neurotic rear end sensations typical to NC, especially on touge routes or B roads with uneven surfaces.

NC on stiff suspension typical to entry level kits like BC Racing will experience this rear end instability even more so.

All products from NOPRO's catalog are available on request, even if unlisted. Prices are already inclusive of customs charges, tariff, Japanese consumption tax, and other fees. Orders ship via air express, ETA 1.5-2 weeks.

First rule is we don’t talk about it.
Second rule is we don’t talk about it!

I swaped a 1.8VVT after a complete rebuild into my originaly 1.6 NB and I'm running a MS labs MS3 mini for ECU. So far I've been able to get it runing on the pre-loaded base map but it comes with a bunch of problems. One of them is that when she gets to the operating temp, she starts sputering a bit. Nothing drastic but it's noticeable. What concerns me is that sometimes after a quick test drive the revs surge up and then cut off back to idle and then repeat. While that's happening I can see that whenever the revs drop a "fuel cut" flashes on the laptop. Has anyonee here had a simillar problem? Is it mechanical or tuning problem

Has anyone bought a resin shift knob from lowered empire or happy endings? I want to know if they tend to yellow or become messed up after a while.