Has anyone bought a resin shift knob from lowered empire or happy endings? I want to know if they tend to yellow or become messed up after a while.

Greetings dwellers,

Question about rod cap orientation, I received free set of pistons and am curious if rod cap is correct side. There’s little slits, two of the pistons have the rod cap the opposite way with two slits facing each other. The other two have two right on top of each other like picture here:

Pistons I was told are from another NA, not sure if they were short nose or from big nose. They look VERY similar to the short nose I’m rebuilding now, I made the mistake by pairing them with correct piston but not keeping track which side rod cap sat on one I’m currently rebuilding.

Hi guys, I have a question, my clutch was sounding weird so I replaced my trowhout bearing, Is this play normal? Or is the fork or something else bad? I would really appreciate you guys help, would be a pain if that wasn't the issue and make me drop the transmission again, my car is a 94 na

Ok so I’m completely torn I’m looking for a realizable fun car to daily to work. This z3 is in amazing condition at only 116k miles, bone stock as well. On the other hand the Miata is around 130k miles and comes with the hardtop. It also has some new engine mounts installed and some upgraded suspension components as well as some enkeis. Only thing driving me away from the Miata is that it has a valve cover leak. I know this is a common thing but as a daily driver I am kinda concerned about it. For anyone who has knowledge on either your input would be greatly appreciated.

Made a post yesterday asking if my engine had knock.

It sounded pretty bad but I opened it up, checked the timing and it was fine, torqued everything back down to spec and re seated my crank pulley. Thoughts? Couldn't really keep it running too long with everything disconnected but I'll be putting it back together tomorrow regardless. I still hear some kind of rhythmic noise but it seems much quieter at least and sounds much less immediately alarming. Still not 100% sure if this thing is knocking or not.

My '99 Miata has been having clutch issues recently. Since I bought it, there has been a "dead zone" in the first 0-20% of pedal travel where it gives no resistance and moves freely. After this zone you can feel the resistance and the clutch operates as normal. About 2 weeks ago I ran an errand and the clutch was working as normal. I parked, turned the car off, and when I came back out the clutch pedal went to the floor with no resistance. When taking my foot off the pedal, the pedal would "hesitate" to return and would do so suddenly, as if the pedal was getting stuck on a piece of gum at the back of the drivers footwell. This resulted in a dumping of the clutch and an unhappy miata/driver. As I drove the car home (I needed to be home otherwise I would've had the car towed) I noticed that I could actually feather the clutch as normal, only the clutch's travel was limited to only about the last 10 or even 5% of the pedal's travel after pressing the pedal almost all the way down. I mean to say that in this state, pushing the clutch pedal gave no resistance almost all the way down until the bottom where I could just barely modulate the clutch. I promptly parked the car for about 2 or 3 weeks until I could get a mechanic out to look at it. To my surprise upon beginning diagnosis the mechanic showed me that my clutch pedal was working as it was when I had bought the car! Sitting for some time had somehow fixed the pedal! But the mechanic told me that the play in the top of the pedal was not normal and that the culprit most likely lie not with the master/slave cylinders like I had originally thought, but with something inside of the transmission itself. I'm curious if anyone has had similar experiences with their Miatas or if anyone can provide some insight as I contemplate the cost of dropping the transmission :(

Hello, trying to figure this out as I can't seem to find my issue but I have a 1990 1.6 NA with a crank no start issue, after sitting for a couple months I have a bunch of new items such as fuel pump with sock, fuel filter, battery,main relay, and finally spark plugs and wires. After changing all of the above nothing has helped, I do get it turning over for a split second with starter fluid tho 😅. (I also have no CEL codes on the OBD1 system)

After car got warmed up I noticed the tac bouncing a little like it's seen in the video when in neutral. Car revs fine and doesnt die when going from gear -> neutral.

It's been a minute since i've driven an older manual car. Trying to see if this is normal, or if I need to go through the process of a vacuum leak; ISCV; CAS; plugs; etc.

My '91 NA started making a new noise today. It's accompanied by a burning smell. Any idea what's causing this? I suspect a belt, but I wanted to consult the council.

ADOPT is now an authorized supplier of NOPRO parts, from the Miata platform specialists that develop and run products for the MURAKAMI MOTORS MX-5 entry in the Super Taikyū supertouring endurance racing series.

NOPRO products are 10% off while we batch initial orders. We plan to import their NC hardtops sometime early next year.

MANUFACTURER: NOGAMI PROJECT (NOPRO)
VENDOR: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS

MSRP: $440
-10%: $400

NOPRO toe lockout/toe cancellation arms for the NC are by far the most popular product we get requests for. These arms remove the NC's dynamic toe change under heavy cornering loads, removing skittish, unstable, or otherwise neurotic rear end sensations typical to NC, especially on touge routes or B roads with uneven surfaces.

NC on stiff suspension typical to entry level kits like BC Racing will experience this rear end instability even more so.

All products from NOPRO's catalog are available on request, even if unlisted. Prices are already inclusive of customs charges, tariff, Japanese consumption tax, and other fees. Orders ship via air express, ETA 1.5-2 weeks.

So I got my old mx5 back recently and I’m looking to make it my own Through and through when I stumbled onto this marketplace ad.
The seller listed his b2500 seats and within the description says he’s got mx5 seats in his van instead.
I hoping that these might not be far off of plug and play since their shoulder widths are the same pretty much.
Any ideas are helpful as it’ll be the first seats I’ve ever swapped.

I've bought an NB about a month ago, with the intention of buying it for daily summer driving for any short trips. I took it to a mechanic to inspect a couple of small issues that popped up and long story short, there is a lot of rust.

Engine rails are mostly nonexistent, rockers are shot with some small holes even. All the bushings are shot and arms will need replacing in the foreseeable future.

This is on top of other smaller issues the car has.

This mechanic has quoted me around 6000€ for all the repairs, which is around double I paid for the car itself. I could probably get it done cheaper, but not by a whole lot.

From what I've gathered I have 3 options.

1. Sell the car (most likely at a loss), cut my losses and buy a more looked after piece for more $$$. But even a more expensive one can have its own issues, so it's not a guarantee.

2. Fix the most critical issues and ride it till it's not sustainable and it just falls apart.

3. Fix the problems in smaller sections so I can afford it, do all the work I can myself and have a rust free, working miata. Although I'm not sure if it's worth it at all for a base 2002 1.6 with 190k km on the clock.

Any pointers on where to go next?

My 240k mile 1.6 finally kicked the bucket at the track and im in the process of replacing it with a low mile motor. The old motor leaked oil from basically everywhere, but it was always had a leak at the rear exhaust side of the block that I couldnt find the source of. The new old motor is pretty clean, except for oil weeping in that same spot. The head is dry and clean (no oil leaking from the valve cover or CAS), inside of the bell housing is dry (no oil coming from rear main), so where the heck could the oil coming from?? Head gasket would be the only place left I can think of, but none of the motors are exhibiting failed head gasket symptoms. I assume the freeze plugs are only for the coolant passages, so cant be from there. Any help is appreciated.

(Ignore the moistness along the top of the block, that's from PB Blaster on the exhaust studs. Oil leak is accumulated mainly behind the dipstick under the #4 exhaust port)

He told me it was done in the early 2000s. Never seen or heard of this conversion. Red one is mine

Fellow Dutchies! Got any scenic fun back roads that you strongly suggest? Please suggest! ❤️

TIA

I might being picky, but brothers me the fact the right side doesn't fold neat like the left one. Any idea? How's yours? Thank you!

Recently started getting this rattle. Usually at low rpms (2000-3500) on accel and engine braking decel. Couldn’t find any loose bolts. I’m hoping it isn’t the inside of the cat but I’m open to everyone’s suggestions. Thanks. Edit: NB1

Hey guys, I replaced my valve cover gasket, and while scraping off the remaining RTV sealant in the corners, a tiny piece fell into a hole near cylinder 1, underneath the camshaft.

I’ve circled the hole in the picture. Do you think it’ll be okay? ;_;

Changing my oil filter and saw this… now im assuming thats my oil pressure switch but im not seeing where this wire leads, checked around and nothing. gauges look fine as well as no codes popping up…… someone help!