So I bought my f150 single cab from a dealership with the fox factory sr150 package (no whipple) and it comes with an exhaust layout going from stock cars, to a y pipe, straight back to a Gibson muffler with a dual exit behind the tire. I’ve been considering swapping to a louder setup and can’t decide if
A) I should remove the resonator
B) I should move the exit in front of the tire
C) and if the new muffler should be a borla atak crate muffler or flow master super 10.

Any help that you guys could give would be great!

Which one do you prefer? And why?

The old one is mine haha

Sometime in 2003, my uncle was shopping for a car to replace his garage-queen 2001 Grand Marquis LS. His search started with a Marauder, but they were still commanding more than sticker. As a car salesman himself, he flat-out refused to even entertain paying over MSRP. That eventually led him to Quirk Ford to look at a new LX Sport. According to my aunt, they offered a massive discount on the Crown Vic, which was enough to sway my uncle into signing.

About fifty years shy of the car’s demographic, 13-year-old me fell in love with it at first sight. At the time, my uncle had a demo from his dealership and my aunt had her own 1998 Town Car, so the Crown Vic mostly sat in a Massachusetts garage and was driven sparingly.

In 2005, they drove it down to Florida to use while staying at their second house, and it’s been there ever since. Last I checked, the odometer still hasn’t cracked 60,000 miles.

My uncle passed away over 10 years ago, and my aunt, now 75, likes the Crown Vic but has never really loved it. She knows it’s special, but more than once I’ve heard, “It’s a nice-looking car; I just prefer a Lincoln.”

After finding her a Town Car that meets her standards and getting the approval from her to buy it, the Crown Vic I’ve wanted for the past 23 years will finally be mine.

I own a 2020 explorer, getting some work done on it. I got a loaner car a 2026 expedition. While driving down the road it messaged to keep my eyes on the road, while my eyes are on the road, it continues, then drops acceleration which feels like braking. I will never buy a car from Ford that has that as a thing ever. This happens way too often on a 17 mile commute.i would immediately return the vehicle and declare lemon law.

hello! the dealership is trying to sell us a 2 yr extended warranty for $3,000 on used 2022 Ford Edge Titanium in Canada. Do you think it is worth it? The car has 150,000km ODO and the extended warranty provider is First Canadian.

please help

Got an official letter from Ford. The engine block heater may corrode with coolant or whatever (maybe light on fire); triple checked with the vin and yea, gotta get it done for my mental sake. It gets -40F here. i need one that works.

First dealership, where i bought it from, I call the 'service' department. They dont answer, and AI 'talks to me'.. like what the fuck. then sends me a text message with 'we will get back with you; and 1 hour later, not a peep.

2nd one, got there after the VIN, then a few minutes later, she explains how there is a shortage and the 'real fix' wont be available until next spring; and if its faulty they just plug it up, and if its fine they put it back in; but they need to fully uninstall it first.

Then she says 'it will be in the shop 2 days'.... I'm like okay.., ill call you back after calling ford and get some more information.

i mean in reality, i would take 15 minutes to check it and make sure its part number isn't in the 'defective batch'. but okay.. im like 1.5 hours away.

Then, it took a 15 minute phone call, to the actual 'Ford' recall team.. I mean I hear 10 different people from 'call centers' in the backround, for her to FINALLY say, 'Yes, we will provide a rental vehicle for one day, and on conditions, maybe 2 days'; cause the dealer said 2 days... ;

I'm like thanks finally thanks bye and hungup

TLDR; getting your vehicle recalls fixed, aka the companies mistakes, is garbage.

Edit: Thanks to the great u/Bravardi_B The location, for those who needs it is in the WORKSHOP,

Under Body and paint >

02:Frame and Mounting>

Removal and Installation>

Removal and Installation>

Frame Members-Front Frame Section.

Under section 3 there is a hyperlink to 501-26 Body Repairs -Vehicle Specific Information and Tolerance checks, description and Operations.

..............................

I have recently been fighting to get information for one of our main Bodyshop.

They are working to put a 21 F550 back on the road after it had been declared scraped. To do their work, they need precise measurements of like the frame and cab and door opening and so on.

I have looked online and I can't seem to find anything from an official source.

I have however found a website that had those documents for sale but honestly I would like to think that as Ford dealer employees we're able to provide that information.

Does anyone have an idea?

Just took these 4 mustang wheels off my crown vic. The front two tires are bald but the back are good. Mustang brand rims. Some off brand tires. What would the value be for these? Gonna power wash and polish them to make them look better.

2016 ford f250 super duty beds shot so im replacing it for one with wooden slots

Fiesta 2007 1.25 75PS

While cleaning the battery terminals with a wire brush, I accidentally caused a short circuit. Afterwards, the trip mileage reset and the radio displayed “CODE 01”. Holding buttons 1 and 6 or 2 and 6 did not show the serial number, so I may need to remove the radio and check its sticker for the unlock code. Could the short circuit have damaged anything else, or should I mainly check the fuses?

I also dropped a small LED remote into one of the central round air vents. It fell too deep to see. If I remove the radio, will I be able to access the ventilation ducts and retrieve it? You can't see this remote control from the air vent

Everytime I see the Gen 1 raptor it gets me going, the startup engine the soul the car has but I don’t know if the extracab life is for me I was wondering on how it actually is on space with use

The engine splash guard/skid plate fell off my Ford Taurus earlier this year and I have been unable to find a replacement. All of the ones that I've ordered haven't fit and I am at a loss about how to find one that does fit without going to the dealership and paying a lot of money for it.

Here are the ones that I have purchased that didn't fit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRRQ6RG6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395563799982

The one from Amazon was the closest to what I remember the original looking like, but it was too small. Attached is the photo the mechanic took when they tried to install it.

I called around to local scrap yards and they all said that they don't sell the skid plates, so that's off that's not a possibility.

Does anyone know where I can find one that actually fits my car?

2002 Ford E350 5.4L 2V

Long story short im an idiot I was on the phone yapping away not even paying attention totally forgot to put a block under my air jack.

I know I shouldn't be jacking from the oil pan but I just needed to raise my engine an inch or so. Anyways as soon as I realized what I was doing I quickly let it down but Def a dent.

What are the odds im okay and pickup is undamaged at that location? No leaks...

Im stressin because this is my only work truck atm and i got.calls to run 😬

Don't know if this is the correct place to ask this, but I'm going to look at an old 94 f150 302 4x4. Dude says the transmission jumps just a bit when shifting into 3rd and you need to apply a little gas when shifting into reverse. He claims the truck has only 50k original miles and it looks like it, it's very clean. Just have a question on what to look for to see if the transmission is completely shot and will need to be replaced or there's a possible quicker fix that doesn't involve replacing or rebuilding the trans.

Hey everyone,

I don't normally post on reddit period but I thought I should bring up an issue I had with my 2024 Expedition Max.

A bit of a backstory, I purchased a used 2024 Ford Expedition Max with roughly 18k on the ODO back in July. Immediately after purchasing it, I noticed that at certain times of the day (eventually, all the time) my doors would either not lock or not unlock. I tried with the key, and nothing. I tried inside the car, and nothing. I was out of town and my fiance had the car for a few weeks and didn't really use it. When I got back in August, I took it to a dealership (separate from where I bought it, but one I've used in the past and had great experience with) who said they could not recreate it. They stated they would order a BCM under warranty and see if that fixed it. Then... crickets from them. I called them every few days for a few weeks and they never had an update. Eventually, I got one where they stated the regional parts people cancelled it.

They eventually ordered it and replaced it anyways. The BCM swap made it worse. Mind you, this has been going on for over 3 months now. The dealership couldn't fix it after the BCM swap and gave me my vehicle back. HOWEVER, they left the moisture barrier in my car and never swapped it from when they took the door panels off.

After that I called the dealership I bought it from, they got it in, and fixed it within 4 HOURS. Turns out, all it needed was a PCM Update.

However, now I have to go back to the original repair place to have them look take all the panels off, and reinstall the barrier - and yet, they refuse a rental...

Overall I am curious, has anyone had something similar happen? Is there any use speaking with Corporate about the terrible experience I've had at the one? I did tell them about it but I don't want to have that dealer work on the car again, and I'm debating on taking the trim off and installing a new barrier myself - Has anyone done this and can elaborate on how/how complicated it is?

My 05 f250 2wd with the twin I beam front end, got some lift block in it but due to how the front suspension functions my camber is way out of spec, anyone know the best ways to fix this?

Hello,

I have a 2019 F150 Eco Boost. Recently I have noticed a whining and grinding noise from the passenger side wheel. The noise would go away when I put my truck in 4 Wheel drive. I replaced both actuators, the solenoid and now also the check valve. I am still having the same problem. While on the lift we discovered that in 2 wheel drive the passenger side tire is spinning the axel while the drivers side is not. When we apply direct vacuum to the lines it releases and spins freely. When connected back together it reverts back to the original problem. What am I missing?

Loyalty is a two-way street, but today it is clear that @Ford does not value its most loyal customers.
My family has a strict history of leasing a brand new vehicle every 2 years. For 10 years, I have been a dedicated Ford driver, and this 2019 Ford Escape 1.5L EcoBoost was the only vehicle we ever decided to buy out at the end of a lease, solely because we trusted the brand enough to pass it down to my son. The vehicle has just under 56,000 miles and has been well-maintained. It drove flawlessly until it suddenly suffered a catastrophic engine failure with zero warning—leaving my son stranded when it instantly dropped into a dangerous 20 mph limp mode in the middle of traffic with no check engine lights or notifications.
The diagnosis? Coolant is leaking directly into the engine cylinders—the textbook symptom of Ford's widely documented 1.5L EcoBoost manufacturing defect.
@Ford Motor Company knew this engine design allowed coolant to compromise the cylinders, destroying the engine from the inside out. **They were so aware of this widespread engineering failure that they quietly extended the engine warranty through Customer Satisfaction Program 21N12—yet they never proactively notified the drivers or gave us a heads-up that our engines were a ticking time bomb.**Instead of issuing a transparent safety recall to protect consumers and families, they chose to let the extended warranty program quietly expire in February of this year without a single word to the affected vehicle owners.
Despite multiple dealerships telling me that Ford "values customer loyalty," corporate customer service has completely turned their back on a family that brings continuous lease business to the industry, simply because a calendar date passed—ignoring the fact that the vehicle has a mere 56,000 miles on a known, manufactured defect.
To make matters worse, Ford corporate customer service told me I had to take the vehicle to an authorized Ford dealership for an official diagnostic as a required step. I followed their instructions, only for the dealership to force me to pay a $238 diagnostic fee out of pocket just to confirm the known defect and say, "Nope, nothing is covered." On top of that, they tacked on a 3% fee just for using my credit card.
I am not just an isolated case; I am one of thousands of loyal drivers who have been left stranded. This isn't just a mechanical failure; it’s a failure of corporate responsibility, consumer trust, and family safety.
If you own a Ford with a 1.5L engine, be warned: Ford will not give you a heads-up, and they will not stand by you or your family when their engineering fails.
@FordEscape @EcoBoost @FordFamily @ConsumerAlert @FordLoyalty @CoolantIntrusion @AutomotiveDefect @FamilySafety

Scrolling the forums it says that they now use Mercon V and some say it’s not a good idea and to use something like this

On a 2003 MazdaFord with the CD4E trans

Which is it?? lol

Trying to remove the rear disc on my 2011 f150 5.0. The parking brake must have worn a groove in it, the disc threads to back it off are stripped, and the parking brake adjustment is too rusty to bring them in. What's my next step?

I’m driving to PA (about 6 hours) for my best friend’s wedding and was doing a quick check over my car. My friend pointed out my coolant was under the Min line, and that I should top it off. To be honest, I know next to nothing about cars, but she said this was very easy to do.

I went down to Autozone before work and asked the guy what I’d need and how to do it. He told me the details of waiting til the car is completely cool, filling it between min/max line, and I should be set. He handed me a bottle of Prestone DexCool Pre-Mixed Orange coolant and off I went.

While at work, I mentioned to my coworker and showed what I got. He told me that it’s not compatible with my car and I needed something else?

We went to Advanced Auto Parts & the guy agreed and gave me Peak North American Vehicles, orange antifreeze + coolant.

I’m just… genuinely confused. Did I even get the right stuff? My car is 2019, but both bottles say Ford 2018. I haven’t put it in my car since I’m honestly pretty worried.

Are one of these even right?

EDIT: my manual says this Motorcraft® Orange Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant or VC-3DIL-B. Specifications: WSS-M97B44-D2