Hi,

My wife wants me to construct a house(or two separate houses) for two dogs that were abandoned near our villa and since winter is coming soon, I have no choice but to build it now. (Before anyone says anything - no, we can't take the dogs home)

Has anyone ever built such a house? What's the cheapest way for me to do it? I don't have any spare money for a side project this month anyway but I'll give it a go regardless.

What materials do I need? Are there any alternatives to the materials that I can find in my basement? For example, can I substitute the glass mineral wool with something else? Thank you guys.

Hey so I’m trying to do a thing for one of my classes that involves slush (like wet snow). Where I live it hasn’t gotten to that point of the year to allow for snow to fall and slush to form just yet. I’m wondering if anyone knows how or if they have any ideas on how to make slush themselves. (Maybe like altering an already existing homemade snow formula?)

Any help would be very much appreciated.

I have a shower/tub combo in my bathroom. The walls of it are plastic, like in this image. (This isn't my shower, but an example I found online.) I would never dream of putting contact paper on the plastic part because that's where the water lands. However, what about the green "wall" part? Is it OK to put the contact paper on that surface or would the water just make it peel right off again? Is there a special kind of waterproof contact paper I need to use? My bathroom is just really plain and boring and I want to add some pizzazz, but I wanted to start with a smaller area since I've never used contact paper before. I tried looking this up, but all the threads I could find assume I want to put the paper in the actual shower part, and I definitely don't.

Making a Billy Bass play stuff from a Bluetooth Speaker

I have a final project idea for a class that involves taking a billy bass and instead of it singing when you press the button, it just moves and flaps while hooked up to a bluetooth speaker that will play my talk. I'm aware of those Donald Bell videos where he took the amazon one and made it possible but I have no soldering experience and am really bad at coding, so heres what I'm looking for if yall could help me out.

1. I want the Bass to not sing- Im assuming theres parts I can remove in the fish that will make that happen

2. I want the fish to continuosly move while my talk/speech/video plays on the bluetooth speaker, its okay if it keeps moving after the fact, ill just shut it off.

3. Is it possible to hook my speaker up to the fish, I was thinking of just setting the speaker up behind the fish and have it play my talk while the fish just keeps flapping and moving its lips but lemme know if its possible

At the store I paid more attention to the finish on the tub and if there were any scratches or chips in it. Thought I lucked out when I found one that was blemish free when all the others at the store had damage. When I got it home and put a 4' level on the back deck it has a substantial dip in the middle (level touches the deck only at the ends) and when looking top down you can see the flange bows outwards at the middle of tub.

You get what you pay for and I bought a cheapo Bootz steel tub, but how screwed would I be if I installed this? Just scribe the tiles to the dip and shim the wall on the sides? Or will it cause an issue with water pooling there in the middle? This is for a guest bathroom that rarely will get used. I feel I already know the answer and I need to just return it and start the crapshoot again of trying to find a tub that's not damaged in some way cosmetically or structurally.

I'm looking for a smart inline dimmer that installs directly on a lamp cord and works with Google Home.

Not looking for a smart plug or wall dimmer. Just a simple cord-mounted dimmer with smart controls.

I found the Tradim 6802W, but it seems to be available only in Europe.

Anyone know of a similar product that works with US 120V?

OK, I will start with the fact that I can easily remove and replace the lock on this mailbox.

But what I am trying to do is replace the lock with some type of latch that does not require a key. Also, it needs to look decent (Though the upper flap hides the lock unless you are opening it.)

Basically I don't care about mail security, nothing of value is ever delivered and I live in a very secure area. The problem is that I have to keep a key on the wall next to the mailbox and I would prefer just some type of latching device that will allow me to open the flap, grab the mail and then close it again.

Any ideas?

I'm looking to extend the edges of my driveway about 2 feet and I was thinking pavers would be the easiest way to go. I am looking for recommendations on what size of a paver to go with. They would primarily be for walking but I will likely park my truck on them from time to time. So would a larger, 12'x12' be a good way to go to minimize unevenness/shifting or would that be prone to cracking with the vehicle weight?

I have an older semi, the shared wall between the units seems to be concrete/block and you can hear conversations. I have read the other threads regarding removing the existing wall and adding insulation/dampening. I am quite sure that in this case there is little to no cavity and they put the cement board (this build predates drywall) onto slats on the shared wall. Trying to remove this cement board is also a huge pain, as I have done so elsewhere and would like to avoid if possible. Adding a decoupled wall may be an option, but the space it would take up is a concern. I was considering green glue or a 2mm rubber layer and 5/8 inch drywall layer but I am seeing mixed opinions on that.

I have a garden shed/office behind which is a small stream about a meter below the floor level of the shed.

I'm thinking of drilling through the back wall and pushing the drain hose through. I would seal around the house inside the shed, make sure there's some fall off in the hole I drill and put some gauze around the open end to stop insects possibly crawling up the hose.

Can anyone think of anything I'm missing here before I start?

Thanks

I have an unfinished space where there is ThermoPly? What needs to be done to finish the space? Can you tape and paint ThermoPly?

The soil surrounding my 76-year-old house in Los Angeles is often wet or moist during our winter rainy season. Over the years, the excess moisture intrusion from rain and the ground movement that followed the rains, damaged some parts of the foundation where the most water got through to the foundation. The worst portion is a 12-foot section of foundation that is adjacent to the outside of the fireplace. It is this 12-foot section that I would like to improve.

In addition to putting up gutters, I'd like to do something simple & cheap to redirect some of the water away from the house. I thought of using simple, cheap 12"x12" concrete pavers, perhaps 2-deep, to create a sloped 2' by 12' hardscape to make the rainwater roll away. Is this a reasonable idea? Is there something better than pavers I might use? Should the pavers be placed in a layer of sand or is there something better to use as a base material that might hold less moisture?

Edit: Thanks everyone for the enlightening on the guests being installed wrong, unfortunately that is not an option to replace at the moment.

Hi All,

Need suggestions for how to fix a flashing to my pergola, to stop rain water during a downpour from bouncing over the gutter. It's got to be sectional and removeable so that I can access to clean the gutters. Rough sketch below, Red is where i need the flashing to be.

​

​

​

I had mice but all the holes have been plugged bait used and traps and the pest company is confident the critters are gone.

I'm replacing the vapor barrier at their recommendation due to it having the piss scent and whatnot to prevent other mice from smelling it and wanting to make a new hole into the house.

It seems like there is a boat load of options for plastic vapor barrier. Is there really that big of a deal? Or do I just go to Lowe's and buy 6 mil plastic sheeting in the largest pieces they sell, or something thicker? Also how much overlap do I need to account for? Since obviously it's not just laid down edge to edge, and I need about 900 sq ft of just dirt coverage. I live in NV zone 7a if that matters for anything in this case.

I have heard some folks seal the seams, but every crawl space I've ever been in was just laid down overlapping and that's all no tape or sealing of anything, is it necessary?

Also it's a crawl space so crawling room only about 3 ft from dirt to beams. I don't store things down there and I only go down every 3-5 months to inspect the area so not a lot of traffic. Oh and new construction 3 year old house.

I’m building a 800mm high retaining wall and using 1.6m galvanised steel posts with timber sleepers.

Planning to have a 1:1 ratio with 800mm in the ground but just determining hole diameter

The 1 man augers look to cover up to max 250mm diameter but AI is screaming at me 300mm should be the minimum

From what I read, depth is more important and the hole width.

I’ll also make sure to have good drainage with a perforated pipe/geo textile then backfill with gravel - and proper outlet pipes.

Is 300mm vs 250mm really an issue?

Hi all,

My Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior has developed an intermittent fault where on hot water demand the boiler will fire up and then shut down, it continues this cycle until the tap is turned off, no fault lights or anything. 

Happens randomly with different taps, shower etc so flow rate seems to make no difference.

Sometimes it will fire up and be ok for 10 or so minutes then shut off and then do the cycle as above. 

Any ideas? More than capable having a play, I just stay away from anything gas related. 

Video: https://anonmp4.art/v/blRLfV4RsHgJn79

(sound on)

Many thanks 

Source post

Another redditor made an absolutely stunning LED lamp I'd like to try and make myself.
I reached out but wasn't able to get a response, so I'm wondering if anyone one else knows where a person would start with trying to make something amazing like this.
I'm pretty crafty with building things, but never done anything with LEDs before and not sure where to get started though I'd really like to try.

Thanks so much in advance for any help you can provide.

I'm tired of reaching for an old glue container and finding all of it has hardened inside of the container. I guess wood glue hasn't given me any problems, but CA glue? It's impossible to keep this stuff usable... Epoxy should be fine, but the stupid dual-plunger dispenser caps leak and fuse shut. Silicone or RTV seems totally random whether it has all hardened or not, I haven't figured out what causes that stuff to harden.

What brands or containers or techniques have you found that actually keeps glues storable?

I have one tip - I store a sewing needle with my CA glue. Sometimes you can just stab straight down the nozzle and get it flowing again. But not always

I bought this shed to store my crafts but also to move my extra tack that I am not using into it: I am wanting to make storage and hanging things similar to the pictures. I have tried to look up kits that would make this work?

Does anyone have the best ideas or thoughts to make this work and attaching pictures for inspo

https://a.co/d/0dUFbfal

Hey everyone, I’m looking into using DC current to strip a copper coating from an MS (mild steel) base.

I have a few questions about using copper sulfate (CuSO₄) for this:

• What concentration of copper sulfate would be a good starting point?
• Do I need to add sulfuric acid? If so, why?
• How do current density and temperature affect the stripping process?
• How can I avoid damaging the steel once the copper is removed?
• Is there anything I should test before deciding on the electrolyte composition?

If anyone has experience with this kind of process, I’d really appreciate your advice. Thanks!

I’m doing some renovation work that requires moving my tankless, natural gas water heater literally a foot to one side. Three quotes have all consistently been around $1600, which is why I’m considering DIY

I wouldn’t need additional gas hard pipe, just a slightly longer plumbflex flexi-pipe. Condensate drain would stay, just need a longer drain pipe to reach the drain. The venting is PVC and becomes both shorter and less 90° bends. The only issue is the water lines; they’re all copper pipe and I’ve never done brazing before

All work is outside the wall and will be plainly visible in the garage just in case there’s a leak. Not sure if it’s my county but I had two of the three plumbers say a permit wasn’t even needed because it was being moved less than three feet

How confident would you guys feel making this a DIY job? Am I crazy to consider it?

Edit: I’m in Washington State

Edit2: I’m really happy I posted here! I think I’ll take the majority advice and use a sharkbite and flexible pipe to replace the copper pipes and move the heater myself

Edit 3: My final quote came in (also $1600…). Price collusion or what? This guy actually listed out the work in the quote and it’s almost exactly what everyone recommended: longer flex lines for both the gas line and the water lines. He also confirmed no permit was required. I’m as good as convinced I can not only do this but it’ll probably be as good as what they’d do!

We have a 300sqft kitchen with ceramic title, it's old, cracked and just ugly. We are looking to rip it all out and replace it with a lock-in floor title. We are first time home owners, this would be the biggest project we have done. I'm not to bad handywork wise, did all the basement lighting, replaced the hot water heater etc. We got quoted $3k even by Home Depot for everything if we wanted them to do it. $900 of that being the flooring, does that sound worth it to let them deal with the head ache or is this a pretty easy project that I am just overthinking?

I work with aerosol coatings and this term drives me nuts, so for anyone painting indoors around kids/pets:

"Non-toxic" is NOT a regulated classification for spray paint. The US EPA itself says a "low VOC / no VOC" claim does not prove a product is safe indoors. Here's what actually matters:

1) VOC, not the word "safe" Ask for the SDS/TDS and check VOC in g/L (EPA Method 24 or ISO 11890-2). Water-based acrylic sprays are typically far lower than solvent ones (which run 500–700 g/L).

2) Ingredients list, not the front label A water-based formula still contains co-solvents and propellant. A legit one lists them — e.g., water-based acrylic resin, deionized water, ethanol, propylene glycol methyl ether, DME propellant. If the can won't disclose ingredients, that's a red flag.

3) Substrate list in the TDS Good water-based aerosols state wood, metal, drywall, ABS, foam. On glossy plastic or previously painted furniture, always run a small adhesion test patch first.

4) For toys/cribs/pet items — EN 71-3, not RoHS RoHS is about electronics, not general household safety. For child mouth-contact items you want EN 71-3 (migration of specific elements). "Non-toxic" alone does not mean "safe to chew."

Practical notes: - Water-based acrylic: touch-dry 15–25 min, hard-dry ~4 h — but drying ≠ cured. Keep kids/pets away until ventilation clears and it's fully cured. - Always ventilate, even "odorless" products — odor and VOC are related but not identical.

What have you actually used indoors that didn't stink up the whole room?

Im renovating the bathroom and noticed cracks spanning 4ft by 6ft. Clearly the tape failed over the years. Ive removed the old tape and tossed a bunch of screws to secure the sheet but I still have 2 spots between studs that are flimsy.

Without cutting an access hole for a back strip, how can I tighten these sheets down ?

Since Saturday, we started hearing a small beeping sound from the garage ceiling once every 30-60 seconds, sometime it would stop for several hours and then return. I spent the last 3 days trying to figure out where the sound is coming from. No luck so far. If anyone have similar experience or even the craziest idea, please don't hesitate to share (I am out of ideas).

First, I thought it must be some electronics in one of the cabinets. No electronics and I have moved most (not all) of the stuffs to the floor. No luck.

Second, it could be the fluorescent light fixture. Opened it and found nothing that makes sound. If I am wrong, please lmk.

Third, garage door opener. My Chamberlain opener model has no battery (according to AI). I also disconnected its power to make sure. Still beeping.

Fourth, water leak from upstairs. I was worried and studied the layout carefully. Directly above is a bedroom and not the bathroom (maybe 6 - 8 feet from the shower). I went upstairs, sat, and listened, No beep.

Fifth, no smoke detector, telecom, power supplies in that area, except the fluorescent light and garage door opener.

Btw, I live in this house for 30 years, brought it new, and that part of the house was never worked on. There is no hole, no patching, and no way to get in between 1st and 2nd floor. If the builder left something in there, it wouldn't last 30 years before it starts beeping (true? anyone knows?).

If anyone has any idea, please share. Much appreciated.

EDIT: mystery solved. Thanks to u/skintigh pointing out the possibility of an old smoke detector. I do have an extra smoke detector (brought one too many and kept it as spare). It is not the on ceiling, inside a plastic bag, in the back of the cabinet. Somehow the sound transmits up the wall and appears to come down from the ceiling. But appears to originate from different spot each time. The beeping has stopped for 15 minutes and let's hope the quiet continue. Thanks everyone who read this and contribute your ideas. Much appreciated.