I want to use Watco Danish Oil on top my oven countertop in the kitchen.
I dont want any frequent maintenance and i wont be eating on this countertop nor having any food touch it, but it will serve as a kitchen workspace for food (For example, having vegetables cut on a cutting board on this piece of wood).
Thanks!

I bought a rattle can of 2k Spraymax for a fairly small project, but I don't want the excess to go to waste.

I was thinking of using it on a guitar body I built a few years ago, but if I want to spray it over lacquer that has been cured for 3+ years, would I need to anything special to it if it was buffed with Meguiars?

Do I need some kinda remover before spraying, or a scuff sand, and which grit would be recommended if so?

(Current project, I'm using Aqua Coat, generous sanding up to and beyond 240 grit, and of course 2K)

Help I am refinishing a beautiful 1920s wooden vanity, and I’m about to drop dead from trying to get the paint to come off. I’ve applied Klean Strip stripper and wrapped the legs in plastic wrap and let sit for 30. It lifts the paint, but I can’t fully wipe it away it just keeps gumming up and turning into a huge flaky mess. I’ve tried soaking wet paper towels in acetone and wrapping them around the residue and wiping with steel wool too but it’s not getting me far.

Any tips and tricks are greatly appreciated!!

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We have almost 100 year old windows. Majority of the stain is okay, but some spots look dry and need to be conditioned and protected. Not so much worried about matching stain at the moment, but I want something I can use on the entire frame - the stained parts and problem spots.

The wood is already finished. I’m not exactly sure what caused the staining whether it was mildew or a tannin reaction. It is not raised it seems to be behind the finish

I bought a rattle can of 2k Spraymax for a project but I don't want the excess that I need to go to waste.

Would I need to do anything special to lacquer that was buffed with Meguiars? Do I need some kinda remover before spraying? It's a guitar body I built years ago, but was never 100% happy with the gloss lacquer finish

My grandfather's grandfather was a carpenter, I'm told. I was happy to accept what he taught me as dogma, I never had any reason to question it until today.

"Never sand against the grain, always up and down with it."

When polishing something, ya take a different angle. Two of em, opposed at 90°. Cut. Cut across. Flat.

I tried it with the boringest piece of pine I had access to. It is no longer the boringest piece of pine I have access to.

What is this black magic?

What products would you recommend for weatherproofing and or staining these cedar Adirondack chairs?

This is a vintage table with a stained spot from a glass. How can it be removed without refinishing, can I try to polish everything, if yes, what is the best way to polish it?

The previous owner of my house painted the kitchen cabinet knobs silver. There are a couple that have worn and I can’t tell if it is brass underneath. What is the best way to refinish these?

I’m struggling to apply a smooth coat of arm r seal using the t shirt method. I’m thinking of using a foam brush but saw something about the solvents in arm r seal may dissolve the foam. I’m also struggling to apply thin and even coats. I notice I miss some spots and have to go back over or spot apply.

This is my first time applying anything and would appreciate any advice. I’m open to other methods as well. Might try a blue shop cloth.

I drastically underestimated now much epoxy soaks into the end grain. I have a pocket in a maple piece where a magnet assembly resides potted with epoxy (part of a musical instrument electrodynamic pickup). There is a 10mm end grain wall between the pocket and the surface and the epoxy had soaked this wall all the way through. I planned to stain the final piece black but epoxy soaked parts won’t take the stain. What can I do except leaving the piece natural?

Hello!

I snapped up this table at an op shop, and want have a go at reviving it (I'm completely new to this). During sanding (150-240-320 grit) I noticed a mark on the wood and I'm not sure if it's a stain or wood discoloration. Can any of you make out what it is? Should I keep sanding it, or use bleach?

I want to achieve a kind of French-polished look, and since it's a heavy traffic table, High-Gloss Polyurethane (Oil-based) is supposedly the way to go.

Any tips or remarks regarding my approach are welcome!

I want to restore this antique table that has seen better days. We think it is antique teak, treated with shellac (20 years ago maybe). We want to get rid of the moisture spots and get it presentable again. We do want to keep some of the character. I am considering chemically rinsing the shellac, and adding hardwax-oil toplayer with some pigment, to keep the darker look. Any advice is much appreciated

Hello! I’m also sharing this here as it might be a good community to get the help I need. Thank you very much in advance for your input!

[https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGchLK/\](https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGchLK/)
[https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGT5bn/\](https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGT5bn/)

Hello guys, I’m really fond with this type of finish that’s trending lately, but everyone seems to male it happen in a different way… some say cerusing some say it’s a japanese flame treatment.
What do you think could be the best way to make this happen? Would I be better off buying the veneer directly? Seems expensive tho.

Ps here a girl reached a similar result but might be the natural grain of the wood that behaves that way… I will use birch. [https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGEUY9/\](https://vm.tiktok.com/ZN8BGEUY9/)

Thanks in advance :)

Top and bottom trim (first pic)are walnut. Sides are iroko. I mainly want the top to pop and be striking given the grain contrast. Second highest priority would be feel. Third highest would be durability.

I have osmo and Rubio on hand, as well as wipe on poly and something called polywhey that did a good job on a maple veneer. I also have danish oil and tung oil.

Open to all suggestions.

I am trying to restore the top of this bedside table but I have zero experience other than watching a few youtube videos.

For starters, I don’t know if this is veneer or if its solid wood. If someone can tell from the pics please do tell!

I am aiming for a stained look that compliments the grain of the wood but I am not sure if this can be repaired then covered up and still look good or if it needs complete stripping and restaining after filling the chips. I am also not sure if staining after patching the chips up would work or if they would be very noticeable.

I tried to color the chips with wood markers as you can see in the last 4 pics since they’re very shallow but I’m not satisfied with the result. There are also some scratching on top of the biggest chip that I’m not sure how to cover either.

I was planning to do a top coat of a water based polyurethane at the end to seal the top side but I’m not sure if this would help cover the imperfections in any way.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks

I am painting raw maple pieces to be made into a dresser. The finish I am looking for is s whitewash with some wood grain showing through. I did a test piece using Gliddens interior latex paint in white mixed 1:1 with water. I applied two coats wiping back after each coat. I do the result I was looking for. However, I am anxious about tannins showing though after a couple years leaving the dreaded yellowed look. I was advised to use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac Traditional Finish & Sealer in clear, but have since learned that it has a wax in it and the paint may not adhere. I can't use a regular primer as usually suggested as I won't be able to get the wood grain showing through which is the finish I am looking for. Hoping for advice from the group on how to proceed.