My interpretation of a Hans Wegner CH25 and some random pics of the journey.

Spread over the course of a month, 212 hours were spent in creating this beautiful aircraft. The Hawaii (II As the first was destroyed) Mars was and still is the most awe worthy piece of engineering. I wanted to convey this in my own ways as well as giving my original Martin mars being the Philippine Mars a sister.

The Martin JRM Mars was a massive, four-engined cargo transport and firefighting flying boat built by the Glenn L. Martin Company during World War II. Only seven units were ever completed, making it one of the largest and rarest Allied flying boats ever operated.

In 1959, the surviving aircraft were slated for demolition, but a consortium of British Columbia timber companies called Forest Industries Flying Tankers (FIFT) bought them.

Forest industries was later bought by Coulson aviation and the Hawaii was refitted with cutting edge avionics flying until 2016 and once more in 2024.

This plane is personally my greatest ever creation and hits home as well having seen it once in action on the field.

So enough of that here’s some stats if anyone is crazy enough to make a 3.5 foot wide plane.

Wood used for the main aircraft: pine so shaping would be easy.

Wing: oak

Tail was cedar and MDF

Floats are oak

Stand is black walnut.

The cost was about 250$ total (not bad!)

And the time spent was summed up by around 100 hours of shaping and sanding and 60 putting it together. The rest was on finishing which took several all nighters.

I hope looking at her brings the same weird feeling of looking at a hunk of wood in the shape of one of the most gorgeous flying boats ever built.

Cheers guys.

It’s time to wrap up before my retirement from making planes.

Your favourite plane maker,
-nasty

Started making some salt cellars for holiday gifts, but also wondered if these are sellable at a local high-end wood craft store. If so, how do you go about pricing them? I've never sold something I've made before. I have a few more styles, but these are the first I've made.

Hello all!

I just finished up this shaker hanging cabinet, made from riftsawn cherry harvested from trees in my yard.

I also used quartersawn eastern white pine for the drawer box, from Alexander Brothers in PA.

This is my first complex, heirloom-quality build. First time doing dovetails, as well.

I really took my time. This took me about three weeks. I borrowed heavily from designs by Christian Becksvoort, and borrowed Rob Cosman’s drawer bottom slip idea.

I’ll make a quick peg rail to go with it. Both will be a wedding gift for my mother.

Excited for this!

Hello

I am building a hotrod.

The dashboard is mahogany. It will have brass plates and various other bits on it when finished (one example pic attached - the circular hole was dpne with a hole saw but then had to be clearanced by hand with what I had to hand very clumsily by me, I know I know I am sorry but I was in a big rush with my foundry running, long story! But that will have the speedometer in there, the bezel of which overlaps the brass that is already there so you wont see the hole).

I was wondering before I have at it how best to get this to a beautiful lustre and protect it in a car? Isnthere anything special I need to do with mahogany?

I am not a woodworker (clearly!!!), welding and forging and cars and engines is my bag.

The dash is 15mm thick and is currently just planed flat and smooth.

So, how best to tackle this to get the best from it and keep it nice forever? Any advice from the experts on the room?

I started this last September based on videos from Graham Blackburn and Wood By Wright. It never worked too well, binding badly as it approached full depth, and after using it a couple times I just went to the tablesaw for grooves. Yesterday I was finishing a couple of small coffers from American Peasant and needed to groove the breadboard ends for the lids and decided to finally give this the attention to make it work.

I used a chisel to ease the inside edges, applied a good amount of paste wax to the plane surfaces and to a piece of grooved cherry, and spent a few minutes aggressively riding it back and forth. What a difference! The burnishing action along with the wax worked the wood into compliance and left a glassy surface to slide on. After that I gave it some final shaping and finishing work, then an all over coat of paste wax.

It's made from a piece of steamed euro beech that I keep on hand for plane making, with initial cutting and shaping done on my tablesaw. Cutting the recess for the iron and wedge were done with hand tools, as was the final shaping and smoothing. The iron is a 12 dollar DeWalt 1/4 inch chisel with the handle cut off, an affordable and expedient way to get a good plane iron for grooving or rabbet planes!

This thing really cuts like a dream now! I can pull this out of my tool chest and cut a perfect quarter by quarter by quarter groove in seconds. Far faster than I can set up the tablesaw. This is one instance where the hand tools absolutely outperform the electron-driven madness of power tools. If you don't have one, don't be afraid to try making one, it's a great tool to have and a fun project!

I hope this post inspires you to go make something, or at least to go out and caress your tools in appreciation of their beauty and quiet utility.

I made this dresser. Solid walnut with a homemade finish

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Hey r/woodworking I've been woodworking for years and wanted to start posting the projects I've done. This is a PC built into a desk that I finished about 2 years ago and is one of my favorite projects I've done.

Design process:

I drew out the layout several times. I actually ended up using graph paper and to make the pc components to scale and arrange them in a scale drawing of the desk. After finding the layout I wanted I designed the desk in Sketchup. I used that design to get the measurement for each piece.

The build:

I have always loved using maple and walnut so that's what I used for this project. I had not done much hand tool woodworking before this project and wanted to try to do hand cut dovetails. I did many practice pieces before doing it on the desk. I have a CNC and did use that for the front panel of the desk for the intake fans and to make removable grills for the fan intakes. The fan grills are held on by magnets. For the top I wanted to be able to see down into the desk so I did a clear resin pour to create the windows. This was the first time I worked with pouring resin and did end up having a leak in one of the smaller windows at the top but was able to do a second pour to fix it. After an insane amount of scraping and sanding it looked pretty good. I used a clear resin to finish the top and on the desk body I did a French polish.

It has some flaws but I'm extremely happy with it!

We’re a small restoration workshop in Odesa. Right now we’re working on the carved ornaments from the doors of the Rauchverger house on Italiiska Street.

Our rule: keep the original. Repair what’s damaged, recreate only what’s lost.

The bracket. 
A section of it broke off and was lost. We glued oversized blocks of new wood into the gap and clamped them up. Once the glue cures, they’ll be carved down to follow the lines of the original scroll.

The rosettes. 
Cracks and chipped petals, filled.

The frieze and acanthus pieces. 
Next in line.

All of this happens in Odesa during the war, between air raid alerts and power cuts. To everyone who follows us here: thank you. Your comments and support keep a small workshop going.

Happy to answer questions about the process.

I picked up this cheap center finder on Ali after admittedly not looking at the photos too closely. I assumed at a glance this would be a vernier scale but it's actually 20 units in 2cm. Is this just a fake scale for precision-aesthetic, or is it an actual scale with a use I just can't think of?

Source: https://www.sawstop.com/sawstop_faq/can-i-use-any-10%E2%80%B3-standard-blade-or-8%E2%80%B3-dado-set-with-a-sawstop-saw/

Do not use dado sets with solid-plate interior chippers or blades with molding heads, as neither brake cartridge is designed to stop those blade types.

Does that mean the CMT locked dado set will have an issue with the sawstop? Perhaps with the safety mechanism?

This is the specific one: https://www.cmtorangetools.com/na-en/industrial-saw-blades/locked-dado-pro-set-230

I have this fresh Osage orange log and I'm trying to figure out the best way to process it for carving and use in tool handles. Do I seal the ends with wax and let it dry for a year or two or do I take it to a Milling plant and have them cut it and then let it dry? I'm just not sure how to go about it.

Need to sand this lid for an urn I'm making. Want to make sure i don't round over the corners and can keep them looking crisp.

I have an ETS 150, a mirka deos 3x5, and, of course, hard sanding blocks.

What would be the best approach in your experience?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers

Picked up this Nova Viking drill press and was offered these pieces of ebony along with it. Got everything for a little under $600.

Unfortunately didn’t have much time tonight to try something new but had to get one done. Went back to poplar but didn’t have any splitting this time. Should have more time tomorrow night to try something interesting. Also hoping I’ll have my dozuki tomorrow.

I have a LOT to learn as it was "only" a one year long training on the weekends, but given the fact that I have two small children as well and a full time job it is a big accomplishment for the whole family that we could pull through and super proud of my wife and kids for supporting me.

Here is my "workshop" with my own workbench that I have created for my exam. It is small and probably won't be bigger given my freetime and my budget, but still happy that I can create presents and useful stuff for my loved ones.

My teachers were the best and I hope to see them soon again!

First time making something with curves! A coworker of mine asked if I would make a shadow box-esk table to display decorative spoons in their front room. They’ve been renovating their house bit by bit over time with white oak so the table was following that trend.
The table has a rabit cut into the inside to eventually hold a glass top. A simple bottom shelf for living room books or decorations made from MDF core white oak paneling, with some solid edge banding.
My coworker wanted to be able to make adjustments to the layout in the table without having to remove the glass, so on one side there are two pieces that hinge out on barrel hinges so that they can reach into the table. First time using barrel hinges and I gotta say, lot of fun and I am definitely going to be using them again.
The hardest part of the project was creating the curved end pieces that act as the “riser” to continue supporting the glass. At first I was going to try and do some steam bending but didn’t like the look of the solid top end grain then having the curved grain on top of it. So I cut a crap ton of blocks and glued them together in what was a maddening process lol. I honestly thought I had ruined the project like 5 different times cause I kept making so many mistakes that I had to fix. One of which was trying to using my router to match the curve of the table for the end risers, only to learn my router bits were too short, and then I had to spend hours chiseling the edge to the right length that my bits could reach.
I also had to figure out how to make my straight side riser pieces match the curved ends, and ended up with a lot of mismatched ends meeting up of various widths. After questioning my life choices for a while I realized I could use my tapering jig to make them match better and it gave the top a kind of unique look top down. But it all lined up!

I also got to break out my hand planes to bevel the top ledge and that was a hugely satisfying process.

Overall, never ever doing curved “shadow box” table again, buuuuuut if I did do it again, next time I’d just make the table top longer, and the cut of making the half circle end would just become the riser. Two birds one stone.

I definitely loved making something with curves though, and think I’ll try making a circle table sometime.

I've been slowly getting to grips with Vectric Aspire and I'm really pleased how this came out! I usually use the CNC for basic flattening, pockets etc.. so never attempted anything this complicated before!

Hey friends,

I’ve recently acquired this really neat behemoth of a butcher block. She feels pretty darned sturdy but there are some splits along the top that make me a bit nervous with some of the separation running nearly the full height of the block.

I have wooden counter tops that I have maintained pretty well so far by just oiling the heck out of them. Will that work for this too?

Previous owner only cleaned it with hot water and bleach and I’m afraid the water on the open ends of the grain caused the splits by swelling/contracting. Would oiling do the same thing?

Any advice is appreciated!

My sister uses her hot tub a lot so I made her a tea light candle holder she can use while soaking. I included a cast iron candle snuffer that is stored in a channel inside the candle holder, held in place by a black screw-on magnet. On the back where you can't see it while using the candle holder I glued on a wafer-thin strip of magnetic stainless steel to hold a lighter in a magnetic sleeve.

I had planned to add onboard candle storage underneath somehow but I decided that would be too busy.

Body is Spanish cedar with 2 coats of Defy redwood deck stain, legs are walnut, inlay strip covering the snuffer storage channel is torrefied poplar. Both legs and inlay finished with 2 coats of Defy butternut deck stain.

The legs were supposed to be torrefied poplar as well, but every time I tried to rout them using a pattern template I made, the flush trim router bit would destroy the poplar, sometimes destroying the template in the process. Even when I ensured that my bandsaw rough cut was close enough that I was only flush trimming 1/16" off using my router table. It acted like I was climb cutting only much worse.

Torrefied poplar is really brittle and apparently router bits love to grab it, although it cuts on a table saw just fine. Except for the tearout. Lots of tearout. I'm not a fan. I switched to walnut and was able to flush trim the legs with no problems at all.

NOTE: I originally labeled this as a project submission but I'm new to this and didn't realize in-progress photos were required for that, and I didn't take any. I was too busy fixing/covering up my many mistakes.

EARLY EDIT: Surprise, it's oak! Not sure how I missed that.

I'm a woodstover, so I get log drops whenever small-time tree guys have takedowns near me, in SW Connecticut. I'll take anything, pine, maple, oak. Always for free so that's amazing. Usually just cut, split, season, but I finally got around to buying an Alaskan mill for any "nice" logs and milled some 5' long maple, about 14" diameter.

No idea what I'm going to do with them. Maybe stair treads on a staircase I need to refinish. Please tell me if I'm an idiot for doing that.

Anyway I've been milling them 2" thick. I have one last log, it's shorter at 4', should I be making some thicker slabs? Will anyone want to buy any of this? It sat outside (raised off ground) for 18-24 months. All seems pretty mint. I'd just dry this...in my basement?

Any thoughts, advice, comments are welcome. Thanks!

Gear geeks:

Mill is a Vevor 14"-36". Way cheaper than Granberg ($60 vs $330). Don't love going the China route but just can't justify the extra spend for practically the same thing.

Chainsaw is an MS362 with a 24" Oregon Powercut bar and Stihl 33 RMX ripping chain. I bought the saw used years ago, recently rebuilt with a used Stihl crankshaft and a new Meteor piston and cylinder.

Anyone have experience with air scrubbers for use in smaller spaces like garages?

Background,

I'm an Owner/Operator Carpenter/GC and my business is pivoting toward only doing custom high-end finish work. My 5 year goal was to move out of the subs, get a property, build a shop, house and spend 90% of my time in the shop and 10% in the field... but now, only a year since setting that goal, I'm getting loads of requests and have 3 months of custom projects on the books. So, while I'm upping my timeline and my wonderful wife is looking for a property for us. I'm scrambling to update my current garage/shop with more compact dust management. Namely air scrubbers because I need to apply finishes in a dust free environment.

Currently I'm using a Shop Fox dust collector and Festool Dust collector with Cyclone Dust Separator (amazing BTW) but it's just not enough to clear the air to a point where I can apply a finish.

I use the Alorair Scrubbers in the field and have been really happy with the results but they are clunky and free standing. I don't have the floor space needed for those. So, I'm wondering if anyone here has had good results in a smaller work area with the free hanging units. What are you using? Any advice would be appreciated.