I love this stone. I cant afford a new one right now I want to clean it as its stopped working as well. I tried scrubbing and eraser but the marks wont go away...

Check out that massive wire burr about 1.25” or so long! That sucker was stuck on good too; it took about about 3-4 more passes after I noticed it and took this photo. ALSO, look at that weird burr fold up towards the tip. I’ve been getting this on some knives recently and I THINK it is due to uneven wear or grind in that area. It shows itself first by appearing like steel that I haven’t quite apexed yet, THEN, I frustratingly remove a ton of more steel only to realize my true problem is on the other side….its so deceiving when I come across it hurts Ricky Bobby, it hurts real bad. ANY OPINIONS ON WHETHER OR NOT MY LEADING THEORY IS CORRECT? Any input is good enough for me as long as you’re not a beginner….(The burr on my thumb is also from this same time I got this big wire. I’ve only had a wire burr this big and strong 2-3 times. This is a paring knife by the way, a very very old one that looked like it had never been sharpened)

I finally got to sharpen this knife, I think it came out pretty good and it's razor Sharp.

Model: Firebird knives FB7651 if anyone's curious

What's your guys' personal favourite stones to use? It could be coarse, fine, synthetic, natural doesn't matter.

I love my shapton 2k and Grind Knife 120. I want to know what yours is, how it feels and what you generally do with it (sharpen, polish, what steel, anything you wanna add) I would love to try miyagoshi stones at some point as well as a couple kings (I have a giant 400 grit one coming in)

Thanks!

I don't know which to buy. both have a bunch of bad reviews (wear fast, not plane..). the sharpal is a dual stone (that i don't need) for the same amount of money so i would guess it's of worst quality but sharpal seems to have a better reputation than dmt nowadays. any feedback or other recommendations? mainly for lapping plane irons, chisels and reprofiling knives.

Analysis paralysis is killing me. I have Uber dull kitchen knives and decided I want to sharpen myself. Original plan was to get the Work Sharp Ken Onion but I've decided to learn free hand sharpening instead. I'm thinking diamond is the way to go (don't ask me to defend this decision... I can't). Should I get the Sharpal 325/1200 or this set of 4 grit Dia-sharp stones. 4 grits seems better than 2 but are these better than sharpal?

I mostly need to sharpen cheap kitchen knives (Victorinox, restaurant supply store knives, etc) and just one small S30V knife.

Edit: I'll get a strop regardless of the stones as well.

Morning all, I checked the rules, hopefully this is OK...

Would anyone be interested in a Sharpenset or Tormek supergrind 1200? I have both sitting unused following a move.

The sharpenset has a 600 grit stone and is water cooled. It's a little aggressive for routine use but great for setting bevels and thinning.

The Tormek has a diamond wheel and a leather wheel, with a more coarse stone (grit unknown) and jig parts as spares. In its current setup it's good for finishing.

So I watched a couple of videos of a guy on yt (IvanDolgopolov for anyone interested) and chatted with him for a bit. He seriously states that the burr formation indicates either a heat treatment mistake or a sharpening mistake. He says the knife should form no burr when sharpened whatsoever which absolutely contradicts what I learnt and experienced. And I wouldn't bother but he seemingly gets good results. What is he on to? Maybe he cannot recognize a burr and thinks he doesn't form one?

Anybody else put a polish on their clients' blades and handles as part of the standard sharpening service they offer?

This Syokami knife came to me with a terrible grind that the Sharpie Method shone a light on for fixing. Even experienced sharpeners rely on the Sharpie Method! Here's a link to the full-length video of me fixing this for a customer.

https://youtu.be/n8MrDMGo6zQ

Let me know what your toughest sharpening jobs were and what made them challenging (if not obvious) 😄

I sharpened a pair of salon scissors on my wicked edge with the scissor attachment for the first time today and I'm not sure how much to charge. I had to reprofile out the convex bevel it had starting at 100 grit, and went through every available progression up to the 3,000 grit diamond stone, and finished with the 3 micron lapping film, 1.5, 1, and .1 as well as my .5 and .25 diamond strop. They are deadly sharp and it took almost exactly 2 hours.

I'm thinking 50 dollars for this, but if sharpened again I would expect it to take a lot less time since the bulk of the reprofiling is already done. Thoughts?

I am a hobbyist woodworker, so I am not strange to sharpening. I mostly sharpen plane iron and chisels (western and Japaneses) on whetstone (Shapton glass) up to 16000 grit.

I also have the Tormek T8 I use to establish the main primary bevel when needed.

I use few jigs in order to hold the blades at the proper angle. I don't have the mussel memory to free hand the blades.
I have couple of Japanese knives in the kitchen that I don't sharpen often enough and usually wait until they get into bad state. It is a combination of laziness, lack of time and lack of practice at holding the knives at the proper angle which takes more time to build the burr on the knives.

My current T8 setup isn't perfect for sharpening the Japanese knives. My knives are in the 63+ RH with either R2 Powder Steel or Blue Super steel. The default aluminum oxide wheel doesn't work well with those steels. I have the Japaneses 4000 grit water stone, but it grind slow and mostly good for touch ups. Especially if the knives is already dull.

I wonder how to get a faster and more streamline sharpening method.

I consider my option:

1)Get a diamond wheel to the T8, but those run at around $400
2)For the same price I can get the Tormek T1, it looks like really nice and compact model. It doesn't require water and seams like it will set up an edge quickly reducing the overhead or sharpening
3)For the same price I can also get something like the HORL 3 with the extra disks- I watched few videos and it looks really easy and dummy proof.
4)Suck it up, be a man and learn how to sharpen free hand on the shapton glass/diamond stone.
5)Any other recommendation?

So basically I'm finally getting better at freehanding but when I sharpie test the bevel I'm currently working on to see if I'm really establishing a 20 degree v edge, I notice that my first few passes only wipe off sections of the sharpie marked bevel and it takes another 10-20 passes to fully reveal the underlying steel. This is just so odd to me because I have been fixated on the angle monitor of that new sharpal freehand guide while making all of my passes and have only occasionally seen it shift to either 19 or 21 degrees and, even at that, only for, at most, 2 consecutive passes.

I am aware that freehand v edges will always be slightly convexed and that the only real way to ensure perfect flatness is by using clamps/jigs, but could my technique possibly be improved?