Doing some testing before I finish up my last bit of hand sanding

Hand forged 288 layer 1095/15n20 damascus blade. Fatcarbon handle scales.

Here’s a look at a knife I made from gcarta, trustone, Juma, and g10 spacers. Steel is AEBL. OAL is 6.8” and edge is 2.8”

A little WIP from our Noblie workshop. We usually make 5–6 test engravings to dial in the settings and get the colors right before moving on to the actual knife parts. The tricky part is making sure all the colors, contrast, and small details work well together. What looks good on one test doesn't always look right in the full design. Still experimenting with this one.

Love how this baby came out. Gold Sheen is just the best… it’s smooth and predictable… at least this one was! A combination of English and American walnut compliments it perfectly!

Always wanted my own Esee Junglas or something similar.

But could never afford one, so I'm making my own.

SUP9 leaf spring steal from a 2016 Triton Ute.

Was going to use orange G10 pins but changed my mind to bolts for the added strength

Here’s a pair from like 6-7 years ago , Damascus blade with ivory handle and a matching neck knife.

One of my latest knives, made from an old leaf spring, with blue/black g10 and brass pins.

Anybody have a good place to order a spring fuller from? One that goes in the hardy hole and yeah I know make one or build my own but as of right now I don’t have the most amount of time and the free time that I do have I want to be practicing and getting better. I have looked some and haven’t had the best luck finding one that goes in the hardie hole

52100 with black palm, ebony and nickel silver

Swayback Jack slipjoint

Bakers forge cumai blade, 1084 spring, Titanium liners, copper bolsters and shield with black paper micarta scales.

Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think.

**books are open**

Have a knife day

I am supposed to make a knife with black Metal bolsters and desert Iron Wood.
Now I have somewhat of an idea how i‘d go about doing that.
Put the bolsters on, peen them on with pins and darken them with ferric chloride.
Now there are some things I am not sure about, since i never put bolsters on a knife before:

Is it gonna Show if the pin Material is slightly different to the bolsters?

Should I shape them with the Rest of the handle and darken them then or does the ferric chloride eat away at the wood?

Should I use non stainless Steel because it darkens better or is the risk too high that it might rust (Blade is from semi stainless vanadis 4e)?

I appreciate any answers and other tips about putting bolsters on a knife.

Made a puukko handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop thinking it would look cool. To my shock and surprise it looks if someone would throw together a handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop. Should i just accept its uniqueness or could I stain it perhaps? Would the glue "layers" show up if I stained it?

Second time making a dagger. Turned out much nicer than my first. Used some custom-made paper micarta which really popped against the black and white G10. Ontario bound 🍁

It was my dads fishing knife, now mine so I’ve removed all of the surface rust with 3 different sand paper grits, I don’t have a belt sander or anything even close to it but I do have my hands and a willingness to put in the effort

Anyone using the Shop Fox 12” disc sander?
Just picked this up for a pretty good deal on Marketplace! I’m hoping to use it primarily for segmented handles, tapering tangs, and flattening scales.
A variable-speed disc grinder is definitely on my wish list, but I’m hoping this will be a useful alternative in the meantime.
Anyone have one in their shop? Curious how well it performs, especially when it comes to getting the table dialed in to a precise 90° for segmented handle work.
Would love to hear your experiences!

Made my first independent knife from start to finish and it was pretty rewarding

I used a 2mm thick bandsaw blade from the scrap yard with a local red wood scales and brass pins. I only have an angle grinder to cut the shape and used a belt sander adapter on the grinder with 20x520 mm ceramic and zirconia belt. Heat treated in a small gas furnace with a heat resistant brick walls

The hardest part was setting the grind/bevel of the blade imo, I thought I did a pretty good job but turns out it was still very very thick behind the edge. I’ll just call it a feature lol. I did a hybrid grind where it is full flat from the spine to 3/4 of the width and then a scandi grind to the edge.

I know there is so much to improve on but I am pretty happy with this one. Any suggestions on what I should make next?