Wanted to get the community’s opinion on this… I had a shop replace my leaky CMC on my 08 speed3. I just picked it up, and immediately the clutch pedal felt off. Way more spongy and soft, bite point felt way off…. I’ve been driving this car for 13 years so I know what it normally feels like. I specified to them that I want to replace it with the OEM part from Mazda and they said of course they will do that. On the bill however, it says the part number is “LMC467” which seems to be a generic aftermarket part number for this:

https://www.autozone.com/p/luk-clutch-master-cylinder-lmc467/1444082

These seems like a generic part that could probably go on a standard 3 too…. could this be the reason my clutch feels so different? Does the speed3 have a unique CMC assembly compared to the standard 3?

I have a headlight issue. Seems these bulbs are expensive. Anyway, my passenger low beam light keeps shutting itself off after a minute or so of being on. Makes a noise when it does it. This just started so I am thinking maybe this is a bulb issue. If you turn the lights off and back on again the bulb works but will turn off within a minute or so every time without fail. But then also turn back on if you turn the lights off and on again.

Anyone ever experience this? Suggestions. Previous cars I have owned if a bulb goes out it just works or it doesn't. This is an odd one for me.

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster :)

My MPS (based in the uk, so that’s what we call them) is finally coming back on the road after being off road for over a year due to a blown engine. I’ve got a new engine and gearbox put in, and we’re all aware of how poor the stock fuel pump is so I’m also going with a hpfp. I don’t class that as a mod/upgrade, just basic maintenance.

What other upgrades would you advise purely just for sound? That’s all I want at the moment, nothing performance wise (if it’s something that gives both then why not). And whatever it is you advise, would it need to be tuned for? Would a basic everyday tuner be able to tune for it/ are there readily available files or would it need to be someone like the likes of versatune/ a known MPS tuner?

Many thanks in advance !

Edit to clarify : Better sound I mean as in beefier exhaust, intake whistles, turbo noises, etc etc

But please help me out if anyone is interested in a Mazdaspeed 3 I have one that I don't use and need it gone, the listing is on offer up if you are interested

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/u33EtMlHg7b

Thank you!!

Currently it’s sitting on bc coilovers, they came on the car when I brought it about a 1 1/2 years ago. I’m slowly bringing the car back to it’s former glory. Replaced a blown up trans and clutch so far, new master cylinder. Slave cylinder and hard lines. Repaired exhaust hangers and just any botched work from the previous owner. That being said I’m moving on to the suspension components. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of how it rides now. Can’t say if maybe the dampening isn’t set right and/or ride height combined.
I’m on the fence of getting oem struts and just going for a nice set of lowering springs . With a 1.5 inch drop at best. Orrrr new set of coilovers or just try to dial in what I have now?
So my question is. Any suggestions, ideas. Or feedback on you guys setups.

Pictured is my first MS3 - 2012 velocity red tech package!

Coming back to the platform now and I found, to me, a perfect MS3 example that will be home in hopefully about 3 weeks by the time it's freighted in. I'm flying out in just over 2 weeks to see it but opting out of the 2k mile trip driving it home for a few reasons (mostly wear & tear, risks of stupid things happening while driving that distance, etc).

The new to me MS3 is a 2011 celestial blue tech package, having only 85k miles and a freshly rebuilt Kotzur Racing engine (OE-spec, not "built" to any real degree), CTS4 turbo, supporting mods, misc mods, Freektuned. The car has lived in the south its whole life so it's rust free - which is a car I strive to find when looking, living in the northeast where rust free is nearly impossible.

Looking forward to being back in the community and showing the car! I'm flying solo on this trip, something I've never done before, and, if I can muster up the strength, I'm actually thinking about vlogging my experience to some extent. If I do, I'll get it posted up on YouTube and share. :)

Anyone else going above and beyond to keep the Gen 1 under the 100k mile mark? Currently biking 11 miles each way to work just to keep her fresh.

Well, my car was consuming a quart of oil every 2-300 miles. Looking online a lot of yall had success with a b12 piston soak.

So far my car has drank 4 of the b12 bottles in 24 hours. Originally I was planning on soaking for 36-48 hours but I feel like 5+ bottles might be overkill.

What do yall advise?

I randomly checked my AP for codes cuz why not 🤷‍♂️ and got 1 code and it is P050A anyone had this problem and know how to fix it 🫡👍

Gonna switch tires during the winter since the summer wheels gotta come off (plus dead tpms sensors) and I was wondering what yall run?

Right now I’ve got some cheap bullshit tires on and they’re quite thin-walled/skinny. I like the meaty tire look and I was just curious about what yall have, brands, dimensions and user experience.

I like pushing it hard on backroads during summertime so that’s the only thing I’m gonna be picky about.

Thanks for your time, any tips/user experience ?

I’m pretty sure I stripped the internal threads in my fuel rail because I shouldn’t be able to finger tighten the bolt, is there anyway to repair it or do I have to order a whole new fuel rail?

Trying to see if its actually a burnt valve or not if anybody can help me determine if its that or something else yes already replaced pcv valve I changed the fuel injector on number 3 had a stuck open injector is put a new one in idles at 800 to 750 piston number 3 new coils and plugs has no compression with a normal compression test anyone know aswell as im trying to avoid a leakdown test? Thanks for the help aswell as the air on the exhaust isnt hot or warm decently cold sometimes hot

Greetings from El Salvador🇸🇻, racing my Mazdaspeed 3 at the El Jabalí International Racetrack.

Can someone tell me what the upper bolt size is for the rear sway bar brackets? I’m replacing bushings.

I have induction heater and every tool known to man/experience with rust, in preparation to do my sway bar bushings.but….

the bottom bolt on both sides is 14. The top bolt seems uh…15,16 or 14.5 (?).

Can someone tell me if I’mcrazy? ? I don’t fancy further ruining what someone did before and needing to order the bolts. Thanks!

Btw mk2 MPs.
Ran on e5.
Dyno run was in 5th gear.
Crank power.

Mods:
-one step colder plugs (LTR7IX-11)
-Cobb intake
-GFB bov (closed)
-Had 2nd cat deleted
-Hpfp??? (no proof but the fuel hit 13700 kpa at 176 kmh which equivalent to 1900psi see pic)

Is this normal for stock?? Or are my mods making some power? No proof of tune either Thanks!

I just finished the engine assembly and assembly

Pistons mahle 2618

Connecting rods h

acl race bearings

I started with oil amsoil break in oil sae 30

I already did 400km without problem without noise without smoke levels ok following the proper procedures engine brake, I avoid highway, no more than 3500rpm

Sp63 recommends using short intervals with penzoil or amsoil XL 10w40 in Europe I do not have amsoil XL available, I can use some base mineral for the first 2 or 3 oil changes

In the process of putting new rear shocks on my gen 2 and both the top mount studs on the rear have snapped on the right side despite my best efforts.

I’m planning to cut+drill them out and replace with a nut and bolt set up. As this is a known issue does anyone have any experience doing this fix and how difficult it was?

The studs did not break off flush so I’m planning to use a dremel to cut and then drill a hole through the remainder so I can put the bolt in from the inside of the boot.

Any advice is much appreciated 🙏

New to mazdaspeeds(Honda Guy) so please excuse any stupid questions.

Going to look at a few mazdaspeed this upcoming weekend. A couple 2nd gens (2010) and a few first gens (2008)

I really want to buy a 2nd gen but after a conversation with the seller he says it burns oil at a rate of 2qts per 5000k miles(he tops it off regularly to make sure it’s not running low) he’s owned the car for 5 years and he says it doesn’t smoke. 155k miles bone stock besides corkscrew catback exhaust and HPFP internals upgrade. Purchase price is $4,000

I guess my question is would burning that much oil mean it’s not worth it or would a piston soak and pcv valve remedy this issue. Not a stranger to work and am willing to put some money into the car.

Finally got around to replacing my old busted bushings and installing the OCC and PCV valve/plate. For anyone on the fence those bushings make a huge difference, the torque steer is less murderous and more like a playful tug. Still have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from the turbo return line... SMH

Recently started driving my 2008 mazdaspeed 3 after a year and a half complete rebuild of it after buying it off someone and it's such a fun car plan on a handful of exterior/interior mods and some engine mods but plan to have fun with it

I'm thinking about getting a catless midpipe to replace my second cat. What i need to know first is if this is going to make it loud and/or droney.

This is my daily driver, i leave for work at 6 am so I'm not trying to wake my neighbors up, and I don't want it to be loud and droney from inside the car either.