315/70r17 with KMC IMS 17x8.5 -10
Part of me wishes I went with the +25 offset so they didn’t stick out as far, but I’ll get used to it and see how it goes!

So I bought my f150 single cab from a dealership with the fox factory sr150 package (no whipple) and it comes with an exhaust layout going from stock cars, to a y pipe, straight back to a Gibson muffler with a dual exit behind the tire. I’ve been considering swapping to a louder setup and can’t decide if
A) I should remove the resonator
B) I should move the exit in front of the tire
C) and if the new muffler should be a borla atak crate muffler or flow master super 10.

Any help that you guys could give would be great!

I’ve been a Toyota Tacoma guy since 2014, having owned both a 2nd & 3rd Gen in that time. Sadly, about 3 weeks ago I totaled my 2023 Tacoma and figured it’s finally time to move into a full sized V8. I got a 2026 Lariat in Antimatter Blue Metallic with the 502A package. I’m absolutely loving this truck so far. The power and far more luxurious interior will make it hard to ever get back into a Toyota truck again.

Just picked up my new lobo and want to lower it more anyone have recommendations for a kit don’t wanna scrap the street but I don’t wanna out running boards on it either

I love my 12th gen. The 5.0 has been just the right amount of power, the whole truck feels like just enough, and it's also been my first truck ever. I wanted to have it for a long time, but I also live in Upstate NY (Rochester - Schenectady belt along the Mohawk)...

Mechanically, most of the things are to be expected due to age and the region, but it's put me into a larger financial hole by this point than I would've hoped for. In total, I paid $6000 for the truck a year and a half ago. By now, I'm easily north of $4,300 in repairs into it, and will likely need to tack on another $200 or so for a new battery. Here's everything that has been/is about to be replaced:

- Water pump

- Thermostat

- Coolant

- Both serpentine belts

- Both tensioner pulleys

- Idler pulley

- 2-ish oil changes iirc

- Both 4WD vacuum hubs

- Both lower control arms

- Both upper control arms

- Both front wheel hubs (and studs, was because both front wheel bearings were bad)

- Rear differential fluid

- Rear passenger side wheel bearing

- Both rear leaf springs (upgraded to 1900 lbs. capacity 3+1's with the appropriate U-bolts)

And Oil changes as seen fit over my period of ownership. I got a lot of stakes in this thing at this point, but my most pressing grievance now is rust. I have attached photos of my truck bed crossmembers, a cab mount, and a frame area for reference. (From first to last photos shown, those are: My front most - rearmost truck bed crossmembers [NOT frame crossmembers], a front-to-back view of the bed area underside, rear passenger side cab mount, and a frame area near my front passenger's side in the wheel well right above that cab mount I believe is starting to go.)

Would I need to get a whole new bed? Or would I be able to get new crossmembers welded in?

My Main question is, though, is it worth pouring even more money into this thing at this point? I'm at least somewhat mechanically inclined and can do all the listed work above, but I can't weld. I've been putting this off for a while due to focusing on classes and extracurriculars in college, but I have an internship coming up spanning from winter to mid-year in June, and I need a reliable vehicle. I'd like to keep my truck but if it keeps on actively crumbling away like most other trucks from this era I've seen growing up in the NE and still see today, idk if I can justify that. It's a shame the bodies rot like no other well before powertrains and most other systems on these trucks begin wearing. I just want some other opinions on this likely from others who may have needed to face the same financial decision before. Thank you for reading all of this if you did, and thanks for any replies!

Edit: Just to be clear, pictures 1-3 are of the BED crossmembers. Not the actual frame's crossmembers. The holes and really bad rot are on the bed itself.

I picked up my dream car yesterday. A 1992 Ford F-150 XLT (Lariat) with a 351 Windsor.

I had my leveling kit installed when I got new front struts since mine blew out, my control arm is bent almost vertical, hitting metal to metal on the strut, and my truck ISNT EVEN LEVEL. What do I do?

For reference, this is a 1.5” kit.

Was just told my transmission on my 2020 coyote engine needs replacing at 70K miles.

Should I drop the 10K to replace it, or just buy a new truck?
Those who have replaced, is it worth it??

Thanks

I realize you can use CarPlay for free. Does anyone else feel that Ford charging you to use GPS is nuts. Does anybody that pay thinks it’s worth it?

Driving down the road and looked over to see this beauty
driving next to me.

Just had motofabs 2” leveling kit installed but she still fits in the garage little tight though

Truck banged into gear once and a harsh 4->5 was persistent since, finally got it to the dealer.

They attempted a valve body replacement with no success, and are now going to replace the trans.

I figured the 23+ transmissions in these trucks were good, feeling a little suspect about the truck now. Anyone with a 23+ have a trans replacement or rebuild? How’s the truck now?

Have a 17 F150 that will intermittently not want to start. Key fob in center console and next to start stop button doesn’t seem to make a difference. Different keys,same issue. Vehicle battery is AGM and tests good, key fob batteries changed. Would this be a starter beginning to fail? When it does happen it will usually start within 20-30 seconds of trying to start the first time.

\- KO2 tires

\- Bakflip G2 Tonneau cover

\- Husky rear wheel well covers

\- Husky front and back weatherbeater floor mats

\- Rough country under the seat storage box

\- F150leds front and rear dome/map lights

\- black lugnuts

\- morimoto smoked taillights and third brake light

\- emtech spray in bedliner

\- S&B cold air intake

\- F150leds hood lights that turn on when hood is opened

\- KJM blacked out for emblems

\- axial smoked led license plate light

\- morimoto reverse light

\- fitcamx dashcam

\- juggernaut designs bed mounted ratchet straps

- Black chrome ford performance exhaust tip

2024 stx 2.7 ecoboost, 20k miles, USA, 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Is this a timing chain issue? This was immediate at startup at a dealership. The sound stops at the very end of the video, and doesn’t continue until it was started up again about an hour later. Again, it stops after about 20 seconds and a bit of revving.

Looking for a replacement grille after accidentlly hitting a trashcan after a long 24hr shift. I’d love to replace it with the same grille but not wanting to spend $500+ on an oem ford grille. Wondering if anyone here has found anything that’ll match on EBay. If not I may just leave it and buy a ranch hand to cover it.

So I’ve had my (140k miles) 18 f150 xl for a couple years and was thinking about trading in for a newer one mainly due to the ugly 4 inch head unit that’s having connection problems with my phone and also what seems to be my CDF drum failing since I’ve been having some hard downshifts. Ultimately I’ve decided to keep this one since it’s paid off and I’m about to buy some land and build but I do want to fix the transmission and upgrade to Apple CarPlay/ android auto do yall suggest upgrading to the 8 in OEM unit or one of the off brand touchscreen units.

I have a 2013 XLT 4x4 3.5L with 185,000 miles on it.

The radio in my F150 has never responded to my attempts to stream music over my phone. I can bluetooth to the head unit and take/make calls, but never navigation or music. Likewise, the 3.5mm pin connector down below the head unit doesn't connect to anything either.

Is there a magic reset button somewhere? Or it just cooked?

2017 f150 5.0 6 speed, 109k miles. The sound started probably a week ago. Would this be a pulley issue, or is there no way to tell without removing the belt and testing each pulley and tensioner for play?

Hey guys. I own a 2026 Ford Ranger with the 2.7L and at just 2,100 miles I got the cam phaser rattle on cold start. Super bummed but am getting the repair done next week. Will be at the dealer for at least 4 days.

Anyway, I can't find much of anything online of other Rangers experiencing this, but I know it was a more common occurrence on 2.7L F-150s.

I wanted to ask, for those of you who have had the cam phasers replaced on your 2.7L, what specific things should I monitor after the repair?

I have read that they either need to pull the engine or lift the cab. I think they also need to disconnect/remove the coolant lines and oil pan too. I've got a list of things I've put together to monitor but just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something:

• Oil leaks at the valve cover, timing cover, and oil pan

• Leaks at the coolant lines

• Leaks at the brake lines

• Check all electrical components

• Confirm wheel alignment still correct

Appreciate your insight guys.

I have a 2016 F150 Lariat with the upgraded Sony sound system. Audio works fine when listening to music and podcasts but when I take a phone call, the audio is very low and the only speaker that I hear the phone call through seems to be on the dash in front of the driver. It’s the same whether I take the call over Bluetooth or CarPlay. My Sync system is already on 3.4. Anyone else have this issue and solved it?

Just bought my first Ford ever. I given up on GM! Traded in my 2019 Sierra 2026 F150.

I have a 2025 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.0 V8 with a 3.73 axle ratio, and I’m planning to install a 2.5 suspension setup and switch to 17-inch wheels.

I’m deciding between:
- 285/70R17
- 315/70R17

My truck is primarily a daily driver, with occasional camping and off-roading. I want a more aggressive look, but I don’t want to compromise reliability or cause unnecessary wear on the transmission or differential.

I’ve heard mixed opinions. Some people say 315s are fine on a regular F-150, while others say the Raptor has different gearing and that running 315s on it puts too much strain on the drivetrain, especially in traffic, under heavy acceleration, or when off-roading.

For those running 315/70R17 tires on a regular F-150:

1. Have you noticed any difference in acceleration, braking, transmission behavior, or transmission temperatures?

2. Have you experienced any transmission or differential issues over time?

3. Did you need to regear, recalibrate the transmission, or make any other modifications?

4. Would you recommend 315s for a daily-driven truck in a hot climate, or would you stick with 285s?

5. What wheel width and offset are you running, and do you get any rubbing?

I’m particularly interested in long-term ownership experiences rather than just how the truck looks or drives immediately after installation.