I had my leveling kit installed when I got new front struts since mine blew out, my control arm is bent almost vertical, hitting metal to metal on the strut, and my truck ISNT EVEN LEVEL. What do I do?

For reference, this is a 1.5” kit.

So I bought my f150 single cab from a dealership with the fox factory sr150 package (no whipple) and it comes with an exhaust layout going from stock cars, to a y pipe, straight back to a Gibson muffler with a dual exit behind the tire. I’ve been considering swapping to a louder setup and can’t decide if
A) I should remove the resonator
B) I should move the exit in front of the tire
C) and if the new muffler should be a borla atak crate muffler or flow master super 10.

Any help that you guys could give would be great!

Hey everyone! I had to buy a new truck last year (my Sierra was a lemon), and I ended up with a 26 Tundra TRD Off Road. Overall the truck is pretty good. It's fine. When I bough it, the engine recall issues seemed to be limited in scope and remedied with newer trucks. Now, I'm not so sure that's going to be true, and the engine issues feel more like a possible design flaw.

Anyways, I am considering just cutting my losses as I am done dealing with vehicle issues.

The local Ford dealer has several 2026 F-150 Tremor with the 3.5L turbo. From what I can tell, this powertrain is well tested and fairly reliable these days. Is this the general consensus? I do at least a few hunting trips per year, and do varying trail/off-road driving. I like the underbody protection, ground clearance, shocks, etc.

The other thing I've noticed with the Tremor is a ridiculous STINK BUG stance. Love the look of the truck, but that looks crazy. What do you all do about it? Are you just doing leveling kits? And if so, how does that affect ride quality?

THANKS!

As the title, curious on feedback from those(if any) that have lifted/leveled a Powerboost. Test drove one and really liked it, would use the generator feature enough to justify and the amount of time I’d likely be in electric mode based on my typical daily driving is worth it. Trying to think long term plans now, and a level at the very least is one of my things.

Ooof 😭

New bed ? Lol

I love my 12th gen. The 5.0 has been just the right amount of power, the whole truck feels like just enough, and it's also been my first truck ever. I wanted to have it for a long time, but I also live in Upstate NY (Rochester - Schenectady belt along the Mohawk)...

Mechanically, most of the things are to be expected due to age and the region, but it's put me into a larger financial hole by this point than I would've hoped for. In total, I paid $6000 for the truck a year and a half ago. By now, I'm easily north of $4,300 in repairs into it, and will likely need to tack on another $200 or so for a new battery. Here's everything that has been/is about to be replaced:

- Water pump

- Thermostat

- Coolant

- Both serpentine belts

- Both tensioner pulleys

- Idler pulley

- 2-ish oil changes iirc

- Both 4WD vacuum hubs

- Both lower control arms

- Both upper control arms

- Both front wheel hubs (and studs, was because both front wheel bearings were bad)

- Rear differential fluid

- Rear passenger side wheel bearing

- Both rear leaf springs (upgraded to 1900 lbs. capacity 3+1's with the appropriate U-bolts)

And Oil changes as seen fit over my period of ownership. I got a lot of stakes in this thing at this point, but my most pressing grievance now is rust. I have attached photos of my truck bed crossmembers, a cab mount, and a frame area for reference. (From first to last photos shown, those are: My front most - rearmost truck bed crossmembers [NOT frame crossmembers], a front-to-back view of the bed area underside, rear passenger side cab mount, and a frame area near my front passenger's side in the wheel well right above that cab mount I believe is starting to go.)

Would I need to get a whole new bed? Or would I be able to get new crossmembers welded in?

My Main question is, though, is it worth pouring even more money into this thing at this point? I'm at least somewhat mechanically inclined and can do all the listed work above, but I can't weld. I've been putting this off for a while due to focusing on classes and extracurriculars in college, but I have an internship coming up spanning from winter to mid-year in June, and I need a reliable vehicle. I'd like to keep my truck but if it keeps on actively crumbling away like most other trucks from this era I've seen growing up in the NE and still see today, idk if I can justify that. It's a shame the bodies rot like no other well before powertrains and most other systems on these trucks begin wearing. I just want some other opinions on this likely from others who may have needed to face the same financial decision before. Thank you for reading all of this if you did, and thanks for any replies!

Edit: Just to be clear, pictures 1-3 are of the BED crossmembers. Not the actual frame's crossmembers. The holes and really bad rot are on the bed itself.

I have tried so many thing to get this stupid bolt out. What do I do to get this out? It snapped when I was torquing it down

Have a 17 F150 that will intermittently not want to start. Key fob in center console and next to start stop button doesn’t seem to make a difference. Different keys,same issue. Vehicle battery is AGM and tests good, key fob batteries changed. Would this be a starter beginning to fail? When it does happen it will usually start within 20-30 seconds of trying to start the first time.

Ok so I just bought an f150 2019 xlt 4x4 with a 3.3L V6 yes i know it’s a tiny engine. I bought some 35s on 17” rims from a guy for 600 and want to put a lift kit on my truck now to fit them. I’m looking at the zone nitro loaded 4” lift kit to install but I’ve never done anything like it before. I feel pretty confident with time and YouTube I could do it myself my main 2 questions are how hard it is to actually drop the front diff and axle and also I live in the Bay Area and want to drive to to Tahoe in the snow to snowboard and would my truck be able to make it up to Tahoe with a 4” lift and 35s with a tiny ass engine?

2011 f150 5.0

My parking brake is hanging up and I'm planning to replace the disc, caliper, etc. The parking brake will not allow the disc to come off, and the bolt threads to pull on the disc have been stripped. The inside of the parking brake is rusted and I am unable to adjust the parking brake down to allow it to release the disc. What should I try next?

Does anybody have the bullet antenna? I like the way it looks.

looking at getting a 26 5.0 lariat , msrp is 72450. discounted down to 60,155. am i crazy for trying to get it 60,000 otd?

Was just told my transmission on my 2020 coyote engine needs replacing at 70K miles.

Should I drop the 10K to replace it, or just buy a new truck?
Those who have replaced, is it worth it??

Thanks

Just had motofabs 2” leveling kit installed but she still fits in the garage little tight though

Has anyone had a leak into the cabin during rain.?

does anybody know how I can get rid of the orange in this light I think you truck would look 10x better without the orange amber light

Heyo, I'm looking to convert my 2017 5.0 F150 XL into an overland powerhouse to take off-terrain and find some good spots out and about in nature to just relax with me and my dog. First time truck here and a pretty big and long project by my means.

I've started off with Rough Country 2" M1 suspension upgrade and their greaseable Upper Control Arms. (Just to start off).

I recently just got 285/70r17s as my latest upgrade. And they fit with no rubbing at ride height, and look absolutely amazing on the truck. They are a beastly 6 ply with some pretty good looking and thick sidewall armor.

I was wondering if anyone else has had any issues with 33inch tires at full suspension usage. I'll admit the tires are a tight fit, but I hope as long as the internal suspension stoppers prevent the tires from hitting the top fender well, it should be alright.

And any suggestions or advice on my conversion project would be greatly appreciated! My end goal is to have a fully decked out and custom truck with an overland rack with some kayak mounting points on both sides. I'll just mostly see where it takes me.

(And I don't mean for this thing to be a Raptor competitor. Just for overland and terrain crawling through trails and light off-roading to set up a camp. I've always been in love with the idea of a mobile base lol. Gonna have buddies with me, so I'm trying to kind of create the mother-ship of the fleet. Have the winches and tows, and the power to get them on their feet again.)

315/70r17 with KMC IMS 17x8.5 -10
Part of me wishes I went with the +25 offset so they didn’t stick out as far, but I’ll get used to it and see how it goes!

I’ve been a Toyota Tacoma guy since 2014, having owned both a 2nd & 3rd Gen in that time. Sadly, about 3 weeks ago I totaled my 2023 Tacoma and figured it’s finally time to move into a full sized V8. I got a 2026 Lariat in Antimatter Blue Metallic with the 502A package. I’m absolutely loving this truck so far. The power and far more luxurious interior will make it hard to ever get back into a Toyota truck again.

I have a 2025 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.0 V8 with a 3.73 axle ratio, and I’m planning to install a 2.5 suspension setup and switch to 17-inch wheels.

I’m deciding between:
- 285/70R17
- 315/70R17

My truck is primarily a daily driver, with occasional camping and off-roading. I want a more aggressive look, but I don’t want to compromise reliability or cause unnecessary wear on the transmission or differential.

I’ve heard mixed opinions. Some people say 315s are fine on a regular F-150, while others say the Raptor has different gearing and that running 315s on it puts too much strain on the drivetrain, especially in traffic, under heavy acceleration, or when off-roading.

For those running 315/70R17 tires on a regular F-150:

1. Have you noticed any difference in acceleration, braking, transmission behavior, or transmission temperatures?

2. Have you experienced any transmission or differential issues over time?

3. Did you need to regear, recalibrate the transmission, or make any other modifications?

4. Would you recommend 315s for a daily-driven truck in a hot climate, or would you stick with 285s?

5. What wheel width and offset are you running, and do you get any rubbing?

I’m particularly interested in long-term ownership experiences rather than just how the truck looks or drives immediately after installation.

Hey guys. I own a 2026 Ford Ranger with the 2.7L and at just 2,100 miles I got the cam phaser rattle on cold start. Super bummed but am getting the repair done next week. Will be at the dealer for at least 4 days.

Anyway, I can't find much of anything online of other Rangers experiencing this, but I know it was a more common occurrence on 2.7L F-150s.

I wanted to ask, for those of you who have had the cam phasers replaced on your 2.7L, what specific things should I monitor after the repair?

I have read that they either need to pull the engine or lift the cab. I think they also need to disconnect/remove the coolant lines and oil pan too. I've got a list of things I've put together to monitor but just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something:

• Oil leaks at the valve cover, timing cover, and oil pan

• Leaks at the coolant lines

• Leaks at the brake lines

• Check all electrical components

• Confirm wheel alignment still correct

Appreciate your insight guys.

I picked up my dream car yesterday. A 1992 Ford F-150 XLT (Lariat) with a 351 Windsor.