315/70r17 with KMC IMS 17x8.5 -10
Part of me wishes I went with the +25 offset so they didn’t stick out as far, but I’ll get used to it and see how it goes!

So I bought my f150 single cab from a dealership with the fox factory sr150 package (no whipple) and it comes with an exhaust layout going from stock cars, to a y pipe, straight back to a Gibson muffler with a dual exit behind the tire. I’ve been considering swapping to a louder setup and can’t decide if
A) I should remove the resonator
B) I should move the exit in front of the tire
C) and if the new muffler should be a borla atak crate muffler or flow master super 10.

Any help that you guys could give would be great!

I’ve been a Toyota Tacoma guy since 2014, having owned both a 2nd & 3rd Gen in that time. Sadly, about 3 weeks ago I totaled my 2023 Tacoma and figured it’s finally time to move into a full sized V8. I got a 2026 Lariat in Antimatter Blue Metallic with the 502A package. I’m absolutely loving this truck so far. The power and far more luxurious interior will make it hard to ever get back into a Toyota truck again.

Just picked up my new lobo and want to lower it more anyone have recommendations for a kit don’t wanna scrap the street but I don’t wanna out running boards on it either

I love my 12th gen. The 5.0 has been just the right amount of power, the whole truck feels like just enough, and it's also been my first truck ever. I wanted to have it for a long time, but I also live in Upstate NY (Rochester - Schenectady belt along the Mohawk)...

Mechanically, most of the things are to be expected due to age and the region, but it's put me into a larger financial hole by this point than I would've hoped for. In total, I paid $6000 for the truck a year and a half ago. By now, I'm easily north of $4,300 in repairs into it, and will likely need to tack on another $200 or so for a new battery. Here's everything that has been/is about to be replaced:

- Water pump

- Thermostat

- Coolant

- Both serpentine belts

- Both tensioner pulleys

- Idler pulley

- 2-ish oil changes iirc

- Both 4WD vacuum hubs

- Both lower control arms

- Both upper control arms

- Both front wheel hubs (and studs, was because both front wheel bearings were bad)

- Rear differential fluid

- Rear passenger side wheel bearing

- Both rear leaf springs (upgraded to 1900 lbs. capacity 3+1's with the appropriate U-bolts)

And Oil changes as seen fit over my period of ownership. I got a lot of stakes in this thing at this point, but my most pressing grievance now is rust. I have attached photos of my truck bed crossmembers, a cab mount, and a frame area for reference. (From first to last photos shown, those are: My front most - rearmost truck bed crossmembers [NOT frame crossmembers], a front-to-back view of the bed area underside, rear passenger side cab mount, and a frame area near my front passenger's side in the wheel well right above that cab mount I believe is starting to go.)

Would I need to get a whole new bed? Or would I be able to get new crossmembers welded in?

My Main question is, though, is it worth pouring even more money into this thing at this point? I'm at least somewhat mechanically inclined and can do all the listed work above, but I can't weld. I've been putting this off for a while due to focusing on classes and extracurriculars in college, but I have an internship coming up spanning from winter to mid-year in June, and I need a reliable vehicle. I'd like to keep my truck but if it keeps on actively crumbling away like most other trucks from this era I've seen growing up in the NE and still see today, idk if I can justify that. It's a shame the bodies rot like no other well before powertrains and most other systems on these trucks begin wearing. I just want some other opinions on this likely from others who may have needed to face the same financial decision before. Thank you for reading all of this if you did, and thanks for any replies!

Edit: Just to be clear, pictures 1-3 are of the BED crossmembers. Not the actual frame's crossmembers. The holes and really bad rot are on the bed itself.

I picked up my dream car yesterday. A 1992 Ford F-150 XLT (Lariat) with a 351 Windsor.

Got a 2022 5.0 L
I still have factory powertrain warranty
I’ve noticed some jerking on downshift. So far noticing mostly getting down into 3rd gear and mostly when trans is cold
Brought it to dealer, they say it has no leaks, no codes, they couldn’t replicate hard shifting but did say after getting trans up to temp the fluid was not registering on dip stick. So they added fluid and cleared the shift tables and did a relearn etc
Been 3 days now, and I’m still getting somewhat jerky shifting but was told it is normal during relearn stages.

What do you guys think?

I’ve read that most of these trucks left factory being underfilled.
I’m thinking bringing it back and get them to check transfer case, maybe fluid ‘leaking’ into there or might still be a CDF issue. Truck built Jan 2022

The canister, rails, and clamps may compete with bed dividers, cargo systems, or low-profile rack mounts. What measurements should be checked before assuming the accessories will coexist?

Hey 2018 f-150 crew cab I'm wanting to add a system to my beloved truck! I want the hardest hitting cleanest sound that I can get under the seat. I do not mind getting the seat lift kit. But I'm looking for opinions. I'm 40 years old and I used to be into car audio big time but I've been out of the game for 12 plus years. Help me out guys what should I do? I want a remote gain so I can listen loud and then crank the bass when I want it. Thank you so much! I've been looking online for a couple weeks and can't make my mind up. I've looked at skar and the solo baric shallow mount in sealed down fire box. What would you do?

Was just told my transmission on my 2020 coyote engine needs replacing at 70K miles.

Should I drop the 10K to replace it, or just buy a new truck?
Those who have replaced, is it worth it??

Thanks

The electrical connection seems straightforward, but parallel rails, drain routing, and canister position look less forgiving. Which measurement or adjustment caused the most trouble, and is a second person essential?

The canister, rails, and clamps may compete with bed dividers, cargo systems, or low-profile rack mounts. What measurements should be checked before assuming the accessories will coexist?

I want to install powered steps without cutting into the factory harness or leaving loose wiring under the cab. Some kits appear to use plug-in connections, while others still need routing near moving parts and weather-exposed areas. For anyone who has done this cleanly on an F150, where did you secure the harness and place the controller? I am more concerned about serviceability and water protection than saving an hour during installation.

I realize you can use CarPlay for free. Does anyone else feel that Ford charging you to use GPS is nuts. Does anybody that pay thinks it’s worth it?

Good evening, everyone.

I’m about to do a valve job on my gen1 coyote and was curious what brands you guys used gaskets and timing chain. I was looking at engine tech / Fel Pro for gaskets and Cloyes for the timing chain assembly.

Thank you.

My f150 still has the factory running boards, but they sit high enough that shorter passengers barely use them. I am considering electric boards mainly for the lower deployed step, not for looks. The truck is a daily driver and sees rain, road salt, and occasional gravel roads. For owners who switched, did the lower step make a noticeable difference, and what became the biggest maintenance issue after a year: motors, hinges, sensors, or wiring?

I had my leveling kit installed when I got new front struts since mine blew out, my control arm is bent almost vertical, hitting metal to metal on the strut, and my truck ISNT EVEN LEVEL. What do I do?

For reference, this is a 1.5” kit.

Driving down the road and looked over to see this beauty
driving next to me.

Truck banged into gear once and a harsh 4->5 was persistent since, finally got it to the dealer.

They attempted a valve body replacement with no success, and are now going to replace the trans.

I figured the 23+ transmissions in these trucks were good, feeling a little suspect about the truck now. Anyone with a 23+ have a trans replacement or rebuild? How’s the truck now?

\- KO2 tires

\- Bakflip G2 Tonneau cover

\- Husky rear wheel well covers

\- Husky front and back weatherbeater floor mats

\- Rough country under the seat storage box

\- F150leds front and rear dome/map lights

\- black lugnuts

\- morimoto smoked taillights and third brake light

\- emtech spray in bedliner

\- S&B cold air intake

\- F150leds hood lights that turn on when hood is opened

\- KJM blacked out for emblems

\- axial smoked led license plate light

\- morimoto reverse light

\- fitcamx dashcam

\- juggernaut designs bed mounted ratchet straps

- Black chrome ford performance exhaust tip

Have a 17 F150 that will intermittently not want to start. Key fob in center console and next to start stop button doesn’t seem to make a difference. Different keys,same issue. Vehicle battery is AGM and tests good, key fob batteries changed. Would this be a starter beginning to fail? When it does happen it will usually start within 20-30 seconds of trying to start the first time.