Earlier today, I went to a locally owned thrift store where I ended up finding a working Sony PVM-1271Q! Unfortunately, there is some burn-in, but it's so faint that it can really only be seen on pitch-black screens. In all, I got this unit for $33 total. Best purchase of my life!

I put this together for my wife’s birthday last month. Picked up the PS2 shortly after obtaining the monitor. Replaced the laser as it was weak and having trouble playing some games and DVD’s. Console outputs RGB over SCART and is software modded to output RGB for DVD. For sound Sony SRS-A202 shielded stereo speakers.

It’s been fun in the weeks after hunting for ps1/ps2 games and 4:3 full screen DVD’s. I even found my original PS1 memory card with my 27 year old save files!

Hi. I have this Sony 20M4E with me and the it is not displaying the color correctly. Is the screen burnt or is there some settings I can tweak?

This is something that I've been wanting to try for a while. Essentially, when using SD consoles on HD CRTs:

• Some HD CRTs line double SD resoultions to 480p at little to no lag

Or

• Some HD CRTs don't support native 480p. These sets instead upscale SD resolutions to 540p, adding lag and not looking super nice.

If you use a Retrotink 5x you can scale SD sources to either 480p or 540p and add scan lines if you desire. I've been wanting to give this a try, but the 5x is a bit too expensive for me to blindly purchase.

I was curious if anyone has given this a try and what your experience has been/would you recommend it. If you have a post/video/pictures, I would love to see them. Thanks for your time.

It's a bit offcentre and there's some wobbling to the right but there's absolutely ZERO documentation on this TV online let alone the service menu code

Hello everyone if you haven’t seen my previous posts, my tv has been trying to start when I press the power button. It does the big thump, but won’t whine or do the sorta flick noise it does when the screen starts to turn on. It happened randomly one day when I was gaming on my ps3 the screen started tearing and making a weird buzz noise. I in turn shut off my tv and it hasn’t started since. Here’s the motherboard I got unplugged and hopefully a better view to see if anything looks strange. Thank you again

Got her off the side of the road. Model number CX32G60. July 1997. Modded my gamecube for this lol.

I've gone through so much back and forth with this poor monitor and refuse to give up until it's able to work flawlessly. Me and my friend recapped the A board and I sent it to a repair shop; still it has these irregular video artifacts.

I sent another similar video to a different repairman in my area and here's what he said:

"Ive never seen this tbh... i would suspect a power supply or deflection circuit issue. It might be IC related."

They recommended trying to locate another monitor to trade boards, not sure if that's easier than trying to fix the problem directly. The video signal has always had problems but never like the video I included in this post. Not sure if that means it's getting worse or not.

Any help is appreciated, I'd hate to admit defeat but it's definitely felt bleak recently.

I have an unmodded Xbox 360 S connected to my Sony PVM-20M4U with a component cable and use it with the official remote control. Plex stopped working for me this year, but the 360 still supports:

• DVDs
• MP4 (H.264) or AVI via USB
• Netflix
• YouTube

Do any of you guys have both a PS3 and an Xbox 360? If so, how do they compare?

An old Extron school touchscreen now runs my Sony retro gaming setup. I’ve been using an Extron MVX 12×12 VGA/audio matrix and a Stream Deck to route consoles around my CRT room. Now I’ve added an old Extron TLP 700TV touchscreen and built an interface specifically for the setup.
It still had its classroom configuration and labels for a projector, laptop, and document camera. Getting it repurposed involved tracking down the older Extron software, backing up the existing configuration, making new pages, and getting everything communicating through an IPL T S2 controller.
The touchscreen now has console icons and room presets for Dreamcast, GameCube, N64, Saturn, Wii U, Switch, and my VAIO PCs. I can recall a whole-room preset or choose individual sources and displays. Video and audio have separate routing pages, so I can send the picture from one system and sound from another.
I also added controls for my DVS 304 scaler: brightness, contrast, picture size and position, input selection, picture-in-picture, and output settings. The physical knob adjusts the selected picture setting or the MVX audio output volume, with a small custom bridge running on my Raspberry Pi.
The Start screen uses a photo of the actual room, and the side buttons provide shortcuts between pages. There’s a screen-off button too, so the panel doesn’t have to stay lit while I’m playing.
The laptop was only needed to build and upload the configuration. The touchscreen, Extron controller, and Pi run it afterward, alongside my existing Stream Deck setup.
Moved it into the CRT room today and tested it through the room’s network connection—all the controls are working. Pretty satisfying seeing a piece of old classroom equipment become useful again with a room full of older Sony gear.
The original classroom button labels are still there for now. Those need an update 😂

I found it on the side of the road with a dell E773c both of their VGAs cut. The Dell is dead after using it for a bit (for now). I recapped like 80% of this monitor and cleaned it just in case.

It's a very strange monitor as it doesn't have a g2 on the flyback nor anywhere on the actual board and neckboard. It also has a chip socket for the main OSD I believe. Kinda looks like it needs to have it programmed to change the value which sucks since looks like it's up a bit. Also the entire back of the tube is lined with a RF shield. Looks almost bullet proof how covered it is. The deeper menu has some black level adjustments that seemed to help a bit. It has a "self diagnosis" function but doesn't really do anything of value.

The picture is pretty snazzy and I hope it lasts me longer than the other monitors I've given this much love.

M61273M8-067FP is the chip number but i csnt find any datasheets for it to even see if its capable i asked AI and it said theres no published data sheet and i do have a dvd drive that uses svideo but i bought a scart cable specifically for rgb not svideo and i know theyre close in quality i really just wanna be able to reference something of this tv its just very generically lost on the internet

Got it for the free. Still works great. Few cracks in the plastic here and there but it’s whatever.

Finally found a CRT I really loved, a Sony KV-27FS100, and decided to create a Nintendo-specific corner for cozy, nostalgic gaming.

Wii and GameCube games look phenomenal over component. SNES and N64 are running composite. Should I invest in S-Video cables?

It looks so fucking awesome, it's like a TV made for kids lol. It has the perfect gaming vibe. And I am a straight man.

Hi everyone I just got this nec accusync 70 from my bf that he previously got from our old hs when we went there , but anywho I have no idea how to get the display to actually display any tips or trick much appreciated

For the cord I’m using a vga to hdmi adapter

For my homemade arcade cabinet I'm using a Sanyo C21TF26S. It didn't come with a component input from factory, so I did a little mod to add the input rebuilding the YUV stage of the circuit. I'm also using a homemade VGA to component transcoder. The image looks really good in comparison to composite, at least for me. The issues I'm facing now are two:
1- When there is white text or pronounced white lines, it leaves a black trail in the screen, and vice versa (black lines leave white trails). I wouldn't attribute this to the transcoder since it's a pretty straight forward and known schematic. I'd rather think that unbalanced inputs from my mod could be causing it.
2- The picture "deflates" at the top when it's dark and "inflates" when it's bright. It curves downwards at the top and recovers when the image gets bright. I don't really know how to describe this so I'll leave a video. I've read it may be the B+ voltage but I'm a little afraid of tinkering with it since I'm still a beginner in CRT's. https://youtu.be/l-_8pzveSu4

First picture is issue 1, second and third picture is the stage i had to rebuild in order for the YUV input to work.

If anyone knows what could be causing these issues and how to fix them I'd be really grateful. Thanks.