It’s working and it’s a beautiful thing! The console has been working great but during deep cleaning I noticed I had about 4 of the stock caps that were actively leaking with visible leg corrosion. I decided to pull the trigger and do the whole board on my own before it started showing signs of failure. Before this I had only ever done a few Gameboy and Genesis cartridge batteries, along with my GameCube clock battery. This was a much more tedious process. I partially tore about 15% of the pads during removal…which I’m honestly happy with considering me being a soldering novice. But none came completely off! Multimeter checks of every single pad after soldering new caps in were good and it booted up beautifully first try. Absolutely thrilled with this.

I wanna know what component, pointed by red arrow, is, I read M32 in it's surface, but googled it was not fruitfull at all, any one know about it?

Repalced these 2 caps with similar caps from a samsung board, are these readings normal for ps5 edm-020 board right behind wifi module ( other side )

Can't tell if this one is real or fake. Has amiibo support rumble gyro etc.

I don't know if this is how it should work or if there is something stuck but it doesn't get to read disks.

I rescued this little guy from an old box in my house, I cleaned it as much as I could and when trying to test if it can still play games, I see that it can't read the only original game that I have. I cleaned the contacts and tried the game with another PSP just in case but it works fine on the other one.

Also I can play in this PSP 1000 from a memory stick but I would like to make the UMD drive work too if possible to sell it better because I have another one for myself

Got this ps2 a couple weeks ago seller was transparent about the faults. Didn’t have a power cable when I first got it so I did open it just to check fuses and resistors just to rule out anything like that and when I got the power cable strangely it booted up fine for the first couple times so I put the metal shielding back on it and turned it on again just to see this happen exactly as the seller described. Im mostly puzzled as to why it worked the first couple times but I can’t find what’s causing it, I’ve tried reflowing the av connector and checked some components with a multimeter with the help of Claude but havent found anything. Is it possibly a dead gpu?

So to turn an xbox controller off we all know you hold down the xbox button for approx. 5 seconds, then it quickly dims to off. This little sob dims down and then instantly comes back on and i have to repeat the 5 seconds hold 5-6 times sometimes.

Obviously holding the button with inconsistent pressure or moving your finger about too much would cause this to happen so i try to keep steady firm pressure and press centred and no moving but this seem to make no difference. Sometimes it will go off on first attempt but mostly i need about 3 goes and it drives me nuts. Its only 5 seconds but im normally rushing off to do something else and it feels like forever.

No other xbox controllers ive owned over the years have done this AND i dismantled and gave the carbon? pad and contacts a good clean with IPA and tbh it looked perfectly clean to start with but nothing has changed.

Any suggestions? This is my fave pad as i have TMR's installed and i hate installing those things so much.

Im going to have a readup on the actual tech on these buttons because im not 100% sure how they make an electrical connection and see if i can do something to it with some foil or something.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Hi again

My next challenge is a PS1 that barely reads discs. When the console is turned on, it makes a terrible noise that only stops when you manually move the laser up to the centre of the assembly towards the disc hub.

Everything is greased up, appears to look ok but I’m struggling with the gears. They move very smoothly one way, but the other is very rough. Please see video. When travelling forwards towards the hub, I notice that not all gears are engaging - but they do when moving the assembly backwards.

Any ideas on where to go from here? Thank you.

Thinking about buying a junk DSL on ebay, and this seems to be the issue it is having

https://a.co/d/0iqFZXIn

My PS5 fat overheats and hard shuts down without any warning after 5-15 min of gameplay.
On PS4 games it runs without issues.
Initially I thought my PSU is dead, then I tried to replace it, and found out that PSU is not the problem.

Every time I open the console, I see dry spots on both sides: APU and cooling plate. I have 2 variants left:

1. Could it be that oxidation doesn’t let liquid metal to stick properly?

2. Not enough pressure on X clamp, although I screw them well.

Pic 1 and 2 right after opening the console
Pic 3 and 4 after cleaning the lm

I dont have a multi-meter, trying to fix my childhood ps2 that has been dead since around 07

I’m trying to install a game on disc but when I insert the disk I get the message that the disc can’t be read. If I try to insert it a couple more times it usually reads it and starts to install but then half way through it stops and the disc drive sounds like it’s struggling to spin as you should be able to hear in the video. I usually have my ps5 stood up so I thought maybe if I lie it down I might have some success but no. Any ideas on what this could be? I’ve tried a storage rebuild on safe mode as I’d seen that’s worked for some people with similar issues but I feel this is a hardware issue.

Hello,

i was working on a console that has the blue light of death. Previous owner stated that it kept overheating on him. He took it apart and ripped one of the fan cables out of the socket(fan side. No visible mobo damage) and put it back together. It kept overheating. He said someone stepped on it at one point and then he started having the BLOD symptom. As far as im aware, nobody has tried to work on this console or diagnosed anything on it. Once i opened it, i did notice that fan wire ripped out of the fan connector as well as a big oxidation spot on the APU.

I am no expert on working on PS5 motherboards but i am trying to learn

Findings:

standby voltage is present (as far as i can tell)
power supply outputs 12V.

No blown fuses that I can find.

UART shows code 80810001 general power failure for all error logs. Same code shows back up when erasing codes and doing another power cycle on console

No caps i can find shorted to ground

What would be the next best place to look or recheck? I was thinking of buying a south bridge replacement. i wanted to recheck the caps near the south bridge encoder first to ensure no shorts first. I was also thinking of reflowing the south bridge before buying a replacement just to see if that changes anything. I also saw some people post similar issues but they replaced the HDMI encoder/looked in that area and sometimes that fixed their issue. Any guidance would be appreciated

I bought an untested (fake) Sega mega drive, but I can't find any suitable video cable, because it only has an rf module and my normal av cable doesn't work with it.

i had stick drift so i opened it up and when i turned it back on my character would only move forwards so i reopened it and now its doing this what do i do and dont say get a ps5 or a new controller bc i am severely broke and only play like 2 games anyways

Hi everyone!

Regarding the NEC Tokin replacement, I'm still not entirely sure how they should be replaced.

For example, here's a SEM-001 board where I've marked nec tokins couples from 1 to 4: 1–2 are on the bottom side, and 3–4 are on the upper side.

Let's say Syscon reports error codes 1002 and 1001.

Should all four couples (1, 2, 3, and 4) be removed, or only one pair (1–2 or 3–4)?

Should the RIP Felix tantalizers be installed in place of all four Tokins (1–2–3–4), or only one pair (1–2 or 3–4)?

And what about the 470 µF 6.3 V capacitors? Should they be installed in place of all four removed Tokins, or is it enough to install them only on one pair (1–2 or 3–4) so it's not necessary to bridge positive lines? If so, how many capacitors should be installed for each pair?

I've also come across videos where the Tokins are not removed at all, and a single capacitor is added to each Tokin on the bottom side, for a total of four capacitors. Is it recommended to try this method first to see if it fixes the issue before removing all the Tokins?

I used a translator, so I hope I've explained everything clearly enough. Thanks!

Any chance of repairing this. I have repaired other electronics before but this looks like it could have taken out the layers of the pcb.

I have never seen such a violent death of a console

How do I open this power supply?

I noticed that a tiny black component is missing from the PCB. I realized it had come off because it was stuck to the adhesive backing of the LED PCB when I removed it, so I’m 100% sure it came off during the installation. Unfortunately, I then managed to lose the tiny thing. 😢

Everything on the Joy-Con works perfectly, even the mod itself, except that the battery won’t charge at all.

Could that missing component be the reason why it won’t charge?

On a scale of 1 to 10, how fucked am I? 💀

[Xbox ONE S] hola amigos, el día de hoy adquirí esta Xbox one S por muy bajo precio, el ¿problema? no tiene su lectora original, creía que tal ves cambiando el disco duro y instalando la actualización se solucionaría, error, la consola sigue marcando el Error E100, ya sé que no se puede solucionar si no tengo la lectora original, existirá algún modo de saltarse la verificación de la lectora Bluray del Xbox one S? o alguien sabe si se puede instalar la actualización directamente en el disco duro y así iniciar la consola? no importa si solo se podría en all digital, no quiero que sea un pisapapeles muy caro.

is my xbox series x hdmi port broken I dont know ive had no display for 2 years and I'm looking to get it fixed for gta 6 I just need to know if this is the issue

Hey everyone, hoping someone can help diagnose this.

My PS2 Fat (model SCPH-30004 PAL) reads PS2 games (DVD) and DVD movies perfectly fine, but completely fails to read anything on CD — tested with a PS1 game, an old audio CD, and a newer audio CD, same result on all three. The console spins but doesn't pick up the disc.

What I've already tried:

Cleaned the lens with isopropyl, gentle circular motion, no pressure

Cleaned the rails, removed what looked like old dried grease

Still no change — DVDs/PS2 games work perfectly, CDs still nothing.

I dont get what isnt working, can you help me ?

Hi everybody,

I have acquired a GG console that has the issues mentioned in the title. The screen stays black but backlit and there is no sound (speaker or headphones). The console does not turn off, though.

The inside looks quite clean. I don't see any visible leakage or corrosion.

Do you think it's worth to recap or is it a bad sign that there is no sound?

I have been fighting with the soldering with this xbox forever and I have unsoldered multiple times I am trying to find a error code so the games with stop glitching then force back to the menu. If anyone could help I would be greatful

I have a 2DS that won't power on. Its fuses are good, but it has a component that's snapped off and I suspect that may at least part of the issue (photo isn't of that particular board but has an intact example circled). Would anyone be able to tell me what this is? Any help would be appreciated!