How do I open this power supply?

Any chance of repairing this. I have repaired other electronics before but this looks like it could have taken out the layers of the pcb.

I have never seen such a violent death of a console

I noticed that a tiny black component is missing from the PCB. I realized it had come off because it was stuck to the adhesive backing of the LED PCB when I removed it, so I’m 100% sure it came off during the installation. Unfortunately, I then managed to lose the tiny thing. 😢

Everything on the Joy-Con works perfectly, even the mod itself, except that the battery won’t charge at all.

Could that missing component be the reason why it won’t charge?

On a scale of 1 to 10, how fucked am I? 💀

Hi everyone!

Regarding the NEC Tokin replacement, I'm still not entirely sure how they should be replaced.

For example, here's a SEM-001 board where I've marked nec tokins couples from 1 to 4: 1–2 are on the bottom side, and 3–4 are on the upper side.

Let's say Syscon reports error codes 1002 and 1001.

Should all four couples (1, 2, 3, and 4) be removed, or only one pair (1–2 or 3–4)?

Should the RIP Felix tantalizers be installed in place of all four Tokins (1–2–3–4), or only one pair (1–2 or 3–4)?

And what about the 470 µF 6.3 V capacitors? Should they be installed in place of all four removed Tokins, or is it enough to install them only on one pair (1–2 or 3–4) so it's not necessary to bridge positive lines? If so, how many capacitors should be installed for each pair?

I've also come across videos where the Tokins are not removed at all, and a single capacitor is added to each Tokin on the bottom side, for a total of four capacitors. Is it recommended to try this method first to see if it fixes the issue before removing all the Tokins?

I used a translator, so I hope I've explained everything clearly enough. Thanks!

is my xbox series x hdmi port broken I dont know ive had no display for 2 years and I'm looking to get it fixed for gta 6 I just need to know if this is the issue

[Xbox ONE S] hola amigos, el día de hoy adquirí esta Xbox one S por muy bajo precio, el ¿problema? no tiene su lectora original, creía que tal ves cambiando el disco duro y instalando la actualización se solucionaría, error, la consola sigue marcando el Error E100, ya sé que no se puede solucionar si no tengo la lectora original, existirá algún modo de saltarse la verificación de la lectora Bluray del Xbox one S? o alguien sabe si se puede instalar la actualización directamente en el disco duro y así iniciar la consola? no importa si solo se podría en all digital, no quiero que sea un pisapapeles muy caro.

Hey everyone, hoping someone can help diagnose this.

My PS2 Fat (model SCPH-30004 PAL) reads PS2 games (DVD) and DVD movies perfectly fine, but completely fails to read anything on CD — tested with a PS1 game, an old audio CD, and a newer audio CD, same result on all three. The console spins but doesn't pick up the disc.

What I've already tried:

Cleaned the lens with isopropyl, gentle circular motion, no pressure

Cleaned the rails, removed what looked like old dried grease

Still no change — DVDs/PS2 games work perfectly, CDs still nothing.

I dont get what isnt working, can you help me ?

Hi everybody,

I have acquired a GG console that has the issues mentioned in the title. The screen stays black but backlit and there is no sound (speaker or headphones). The console does not turn off, though.

The inside looks quite clean. I don't see any visible leakage or corrosion.

Do you think it's worth to recap or is it a bad sign that there is no sound?

I have been fighting with the soldering with this xbox forever and I have unsoldered multiple times I am trying to find a error code so the games with stop glitching then force back to the menu. If anyone could help I would be greatful

I have a 2DS that won't power on. Its fuses are good, but it has a component that's snapped off and I suspect that may at least part of the issue (photo isn't of that particular board but has an intact example circled). Would anyone be able to tell me what this is? Any help would be appreciated!

I've run out of ideas with this so it's time to consult the hive mind.

I have a New 3DS (non-XL) which I USB-C modded last year.

However it's developed a fault that I can't work out.

The console will not boot unless the battery is completely full. If there's anything less than 100% it will simply do nothing.

Plugging in a charger shows that it does take charge at approx 5V 700mA. However, no charge light shows. The charge rate will slow as the battery gets more full. Once the charge rate drops to around 150mA, if I unplug and plug back in I then get a charge light and can actually boot the console.

To compound matters, if left off and unplugged for anything more than a couple of minutes, it will then fail to boot again until I charge it back up.

If I leave it overnight, the battery drains to 0.

If I measure current draw from the battery with the power off it's about 6mA

I have tried:

Reflowing my USB C mod (it's the giltesa one)

Replacing the ABXY board and it's associated ribbon

A new battery

Various USB chargers

Anything else I can try? The console does work but pretty much only if plugged in all the time.

I was trying to replace the CP1 capacitor on my Game Boy Pocket, but I accidentally ripped off the positive (+) solder pad.

I'm really worried because I don't know how to repair damaged PCB traces, and I don't want to make things worse.

I have a soldering iron and a multimeter, but I have very little experience with this kind of repair.

Could someone help me identify where the positive CP1 pad connects? Is there another point on the board where I could solder a jumper wire to restore the connection?

If anyone has repaired this specific issue before, I would really appreciate some guidance or pictures showing how to fix it.

Damn, this always happens with personal projects.

Is there a reliable vendor or place to purchase the back and top plate for the New 3DS XL. A friend recently gave me one and it’s in great shape minus this.

So one thingg that driv es me nuts with ebay console parts lots is how little information some sellers put in the title. You get something like mixed broken gaming consoles with eight photos and almost no descrription. Sometimes there's a model buried in there that's worth buying the whole lot for, but you have to zoom in, check labels, compare hardware revisions, and then figure out if the price leave s any room for profit. I deal with PS4s, Switches and Xbox stuff and when you're checking a ton of new listings every day, that process gets pretty exhausting. Worst part is finding a decent lot and watching it sell while you're still figuring out what's included. For those of you buying broken consoles to repair or use for parts, how are you finding decent lots these days?

Recently I brought out my childhood N64 and decided to boot up Ocarina of Time. The game won't start up, staying at "No Signal" on my tv.

I have an adapter to play N64 at 720p on my tv that works really well. I'm able to play most of my collection without any problems so I would assume that any issues would likely be the cartridge itself, not the console, the connection to the tv or the tv.

Which brings me here. I opened up Ocarina and cleaned the pins using isopropyl alcohol, swabs and a microfiber towel. All was going well and then I noticed these large marks across the width of the board just above the pins. From what I can gather, it looks like a combination of rust + wear and tear over the years may have damaged the board.

Anyways, I'd like to see what everyone else here thinks. Anything you notice that could be an issue? Is this able to be repaired? Should I take this to a repair shop?

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Edit: Thanks for the replies! I'm grateful to see a lot of consistent advice and even some offers for people to fix it for me. I really appreciate it! I'd like to take another round or two of 99% to see if that helps at all and may reach out again if I feel like the repair is beyond what I feel comfortable with.

Thanks again everyone!

Hola, disculpen alguien me podría orientar sobre que capacidad es ese capacitor ceramico de la Nintendo switch v1?

Está debajo de donde va el procesador (es igualito al que está debajo) estoy intentando reparar esa consola que encontré en un tianguis y ví que falta ese capacitor

Hey everyone

I have a really strange issue and need some advice.

I fixed 2 PS4 controllers for my friend. They both had stick drift, so I replaced the joysticks with TMR sticks. Everything works well there. I also noticed that both light bars were broken and wouldn't show light. So, I discovered I needed to charge motherboards and just ordered 2 of them. They came in, and I replaced them both, and they worked well.

Now he is trying to play some multiplayer games with his girlfriend, and when trying to pair both controllers, it just doesn't work. Controller 1 will connect, and when you turn on Controller 2, it will disconnect controller 1. Same thing, vice-versa. I have sent him a list of things to try.

1. He has reset both controllers with the pin in the back

2. Tried new cords (but has no issues with them pairing. It's just when u connect them at the same time)

3. Forgot the devices in the bluetooth settings

Nothing has worked. Any feedback is appreciated!

This was an Y-bolt. I completely lost and can't remove it

Olá pessoas. Venho aqui pedir ajuda com meu PS3 Slim depois de uma limpeza que era pra ser inofensiva.

Desmontei meu PS3 para uma limpeza e troca da bateria e quando montei ele de volta, o console acende a luz vermelha do botão power normalmente após colocar na tomada pela primeira vez, mas quanto tento iniciar, o console desliga em menos de 3 segundos abruptamente (não tem bip nem nada).

E o console desliga mesmo. Não volta pra luz vermelha e fica como se eu tivesse removido da tomada. E nesse momento, se eu tentar apertar o botão de ligar novamente, o console liga voltando para luz vermelha que era pra ser o normal. E se eu tentar apertar de novo, ele começa a inicializar, mas desliga novamente e fica nesse ciclo.

Alguém tem ideia do que pode ser por favor???

É algo muito específico e não estou conseguindo achar uma solução. Já montei e remontei diversas vezes tentando resolver, mas sem resultado. Moro em um povoado de uma cidade que é de zona rural e a cidade mais próxima depois da minha, também é rural!! Só resta eu mesmo tentar resolver isso e não quero ficar sem meu PS3 que amo tanto. Estava zerando red dead redemption e GTA V pela primeira vez...

Hi!!! I have been wanting to get into repairs (generally) for ages now so thought id try my hand at it with consoles. Namely, the DS since theyre a little easier for me to get my hands on (both the consoles and the parts). Now im debating, ive had my eye on a set of 2 DS lites. Both broken, one won't turn on and the other needs a new top screen. The set is 20 bucks. Do yall think this is worth it, or should I keep looking? And am I better off buying individual parts (top screen alone is near 20 bucks), buying part lots or buying parts off aliexpress?

Thanks a lot in advance :)

As I tried to solder off the upper potentiometer, I tore a piece of the track off the circuit board. On the track was a little element of the board, I circled it red on the picture of undamaged board I found. Can anyone help me to identify this element? I already looked at acidmods on the JDM-055 topic, and didn't found anything.

Fixing it will be a great pain in the ass, but I'm eager to learn.

Thank you.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice. I bought a white PS3 2500 series for $10 (and a monitor, of course). I tried to turn it on, plugged in the cable, and it didn't start. That got me curious (seriously, what?). The first thing I noticed was that the power port was a bit loose/wobbly, but only slightly.

So I started disassembling it. First thing I noticed: there are no screws! Only 2 big ones, 2 small ones, and those are just for the case. After taking the lid off, here's what I found:
\*All parts are in place.

\*The HDD and its caddy were completely missing.

\*The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antenna cables were also missing.

\*The disc drive is untouched, but the ribbon cables are unplugged.

\*The motherboard and case are untouched (or at least they look like it).

\*The cooling system is untouched and surprisingly very clean.

\*The power cable is unplugged, and the PSU is literally just hanging on because the screws holding its case are missing.
But overall, everything else looks pretty harmless and in good condition. I put it together for a quick test: motherboard + cooling + PSU + front panel + power port. Finally, I assembled it, turned it on, and it shows a red light. I press the power button again, it shows a green light for literally 1 second, and then it shuts down. It doesn't display anything until I try to turn it on again.

So my question is: Is it worth fixing, or should I not bother and just sell it for parts? If it is worth fixing, what should I replace/fix first?

so I bought this copy of yoshis island from a retro game store, and it seemed to work fine enough until I had to save my data. it was then that I assumed that the battery was defective so I decided to replace it. However, when I opened it up, it looked like someone got some Shepard pie and decided to smear it across a quarter of the motherboard. as disgusted as I was, I tried my best to fix it. I replaced the battery (this was my first time soldering something btw lmk if it sux), tried cleaning the board as best as I could with vinegar and alcohol, and the game runs fine but it still won’t save (well it saves if you turn it off and then on for about 5 seconds but I don’t think that counts). if anyone has any ideas on how to fix it or weather this is a lost cause, that would be awesome.

Hey all.

I have a EDM-010 PS5 that's been sat around dead for a while, I thought I'd give it a go at fixing. I've got a decent amount of tools (hot air, iron, microscope, etc) but not a lot of experience in diagnosing issues.

The board has a 12v short (measured from the power supply input connectors). I've removed the 12v coil and I still get a short across the 12v power supply connectors.

From ground to the left side of that coil (board edge side) I get 007.6 ohms resistance and from ground to the APU side I get 3.500 ohms resistance.

I don't have a thermal camera but I do have a bench power supply.

Which steps would I take next? Google/Youtube/AI is failing me.

Thanks!