As mentioned, what is it?

State is CA.

Hi everyone,

We recently had a new combined washing machine and dryer unit installed in our apartment in Germany.

The installers noticed that the old plastic 90° drain connector was deteriorating and needed replacing. I bought replacement fittings and tried installing them myself, but couldn’t get a watertight connection.

I eventually called a plumber, who has now visited twice. He improved the situation significantly, but unfortunately there’s still a very small amount of water leaking from the white plastic connector during a full washing cycle.

I’ve attached a photo of the current installation and the pieces that were used. You can see what appears to be sealing material around the connection. Not sure what he used.

The plumber has been helpful and offered to refund me if the issue persists, but since he’s already visited twice and improved things considerably, I’d rather find a solution than ask him for a refund.

My questions:
- Does anything about this installation look incorrect?
- Is there a different type of connector that would provide a more reliable seal?
- Could the problem be with the existing wall-side fitting rather than the replacement elbow?

I’d appreciate any advice on how to get this completely watertight.

Thanks!

Hi,
Looking for some advice on a leaking tap. Leaking about 100L per day. A few months ago the plumber fixed a point under the ground that was leaking , and now the top part is leaking
They’re not responding to any calls anymore.
Is this a straightforward diy fix?
Thanks!

Just got comfortable messing with the pop up to unclog the sink and we’ve not been able to use our pivot rod to fully hold water in the sink due to it getting hung up on the supply line.

If I turn off the valve and loosen where it connects to the line, will I be able to swing the line in the left/opposite direction (assuming there’s room), and is that the correct method to fix this?

Been tinkering with my basement toilet today because the bowl didn’t seem like it was filling as much as it usually does. Gave up and tried to put it out of my mind because it was flushing fine.

Just went down to look at the level because I can’t sleep, and the bowl had filled to its normal level after about an hour from the last flush. I noticed what seemed to be water very slowly coming from the right rim jet. The float level in the tank was a little high, so I adjusted and flushed to see what would happen. Still having the water slowly coming from that rim jet

Is there a fix/concern here, or do I just move on with my life?

Hi, I'm looking at some homes next week that I know may have had Kitec pipes put in when they were built.

I'm hoping some seller's disclosures will help me determine if any still have Kitec but I was wondering if there is an easy way for me to tell if they still do or not? I will obviously get an inspection done but would rather save the money and not have to pay for that on every house I'm interested in if I can cross them off my list by just checking for myself.

Any additional information about Kitec pipes is welcome, I'd like to learn.

I tore out the faux stone on either side of this fireplace in order to build some built-in bookshelves. I want to run a tube from behind the TV to the side of the fireplace to run HDMI cables though for gaming consoles. Is it possible that this natural gas fireplace would create enough heat inside of this area that it would warp grey PVC over time? Would metal be a safer option?

We have someone coming tomorrow for this getting ever so slightly bigger after three months. We have an en suite bath above it so assuming it’s that. Roof is only five years old. Home built in 2001.

We did a meter test over an hour not using water and the the sweep hand did move.

We’re going to schedule a second plumber after the first to compare what they say. Both highly rated 4.9/.4.8 with hundreds of google reviews. First said $145 for service call. Both were given to us by former homeowner who took immaculate care of house.

Already know we’ll need dry wall/painting work after the fact, if not more, given the bathtub never used is above that corner.

What should we expect regarding plumbing fix price? Aware it’s not a cheap fix but a ball park figure would help. And also if one or both recommends a dry waller/painter, should we take their advice or kickbacks involved? Any other info you need? Thanks in advance!

Added a spin down filter on a closed loop greenhouse boiler system that has some grit issues that’s fouling the boiler

I haven’t sweated copper in nearly 30 years - it’s ugly - too much heat & solder, so got some drips, but I think the layout’s pretty clean

Noticed today when I was refilling salt in the water softener. It’s a drip that goes directly into my French drain in the basement. Is there an easy fix since it seems to be from a cap that is not in use?

Very minimal plumbing knowledge here. When a low flow condition exists such as the fridge water pitcher filling or cracking a faucet partially open there’s a loud high pitch sound coming from our pipes.

It is a different sound than air trapped in lines. I have disconnected the fridge and flushed the lines so I know it is water solid and doesn’t have trapped air.

When I cycle my main house shut off the noise sometime stops. I don’t know if it’s some debris or something on the city side of my meter. I think it could be my dual check valve on my side of the meter but I’m not sure. It’s hard to tell where the vibration comes from. But overall my water pressure is not affected. It just sounds bad when any low flow conditions exist, but clears up as soon as a faucet is full open.

Not sure if anyone has had any experience with anything similar.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

Hi all, per title, had to pull the old hose out as my son had snapped the vege mixer at the plastic, i was told i can just buy a new vege mixer head and hose which i have done, per photos, i simply can not feed the hose down to under the sink, it fees like its just hitting a brick wall / dead end, any tips or do i have to remove the whole tap fixture? appreciate your help.

Trying to ask a licensed plumber what they recommend as most reliable /functional water conditioner as I am in process of updating all my plumbing for a full house repipe and planning on going with smart toilets /water conditioner

I had existing pex supply lines for the hallway sink, run through ceiling joists in my house and reconnected to existing copper lines. I went to wash my hands in the hallway sink hours later and there is low hot & cold water pressure. When I contact the plumber, do you think he should charge me to fix it or not?

I checked the shutoff valves below the sink and I can't budge them counterclockwise, so I think they're both fully open. I tried running water on all the house's sinks in case there was air in the lines and there was no pressure change in the hallway sink. If there is anything else I can try, please let me know.

I made a post the other day about this plumbing but about something else but i got roasted for not having any venting.

So, i ended up redoing this plumbing and added a AAV vent and curious what others think. Not ideal but better than nothing. Its not practical to tie into the main stack vent here. This is under a kitchen sink and nothing is glued together yet. Just dry fitted for now.

Just curious what would be the best way to change this one sink drain plumbing to 2. The upper drain is for a bathroom sink on the other side of the wall. Appreciate any insight.

Hi everyone. I will start by saying that my knowledge about this is basically 0%, but i was hoping i could get some help on how i can fix the flush valve issue i have myself. I really appreciate any help provided!

My flush valve (is this the right name?) has been making this hissing sound which seems to be caused by water constantly flowing into the tube thing. Hopefully the video shows it well, but can someone please help shed a light on what the issue is here and how to fix it?

Thank you very much!

Hi all, my hot water got scalding hot recently. I was thinking about replacing the thermostats. When searching online I am having a hard time finding the exact numbers that are inscribed. I suspect some of the numbers relate to the manufacturing date etc.

Can you all point me in the right direction to make sure I get the exact one? I see plenty that are 59T 4195. But haven't seen 59T 4190.

Thanks!

Got in a little far over my tools and abilities. Just bought this older house and got my first water bill.....a tad high. Found a drip at a outside spigot/PVC/Sprinkler system and fixed that.

Now tackling this bathroom drip. Trying to replace the fixtures with new Delta. Hot water stem very corroded and now soaking in liquid wrench. Just got a new basin wrench to hopefully sort this out tomorrow.

Looking forward at the drain thinger. This looks very corroded all the drain pipe is metal. I have zero experience with this metal.

Hoping you all have some advice (other than my purse). Should I just leave that old gold drain piece in or replace it with the new bronze stuff that came with the faucet? Or is this going to be a sheeit show to get out and do proper. Transition to PVC perhaps, and what is the best way to do that?

Appreciate your thoughts and time.

After a spoon found its way into my garbage disposal without me seeing it, I turned it on. I quickly turned it off and removed the spoon, but then whatever this thing is was stuck in the garbage disposal. I fished it out and have no idea what it is or what it goes to. Like the title says, what is it and how do I fix it?

Our water heater is 20+ years old and needs replacing. We were quoted $1925 by a recommended local plumber for a new 50 gallon AO Smith install, add thermal expansion tank, bring up to code, and hauling away of old water heater.

My 80+ year old engineer dad insists that I am being over charged. I live in Charlotte, NC. What do you guys think? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!