Our water heater is 20+ years old and needs replacing. We were quoted $1925 by a recommended local plumber for a new 50 gallon AO Smith install, add thermal expansion tank, bring up to code, and hauling away of old water heater.

My 80+ year old engineer dad insists that I am being over charged. I live in Charlotte, NC. What do you guys think? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

The first try the builder used flex accordion pipe.. I asked th to redo it and this is attempt #2 what’s your opinion?

Added a spin down filter on a closed loop greenhouse boiler system that has some grit issues that’s fouling the boiler

I haven’t sweated copper in nearly 30 years - it’s ugly - too much heat & solder, so got some drips, but I think the layout’s pretty clean

We had this bathroom installed 11 yrs ago. the drain pipe to the sink cracked wierd in two diagnal strips. what would cause it to break like this?

It had pink insulation on both sides. it just happened so it wouldn't be from cold/freezing.

We have someone coming tomorrow for this getting ever so slightly bigger after three months. We have an en suite bath above it so assuming it’s that. Roof is only five years old. Home built in 2001.

We did a meter test over an hour not using water and the the sweep hand did move.

We’re going to schedule a second plumber after the first to compare what they say. Both highly rated 4.9/.4.8 with hundreds of google reviews. First said $145 for service call. Both were given to us by former homeowner who took immaculate care of house.

Already know we’ll need dry wall/painting work after the fact, if not more, given the bathtub never used is above that corner.

What should we expect regarding plumbing fix price? Aware it’s not a cheap fix but a ball park figure would help. And also if one or both recommends a dry waller/painter, should we take their advice or kickbacks involved? Any other info you need? Thanks in advance!

Hi folks, I'm dealing with some old plumbing, and I'm not sure what the next step should be. The tub pretty quickly went from draining relatively well to the tub taking 24 hours+ to drain the water from an 8 min shower. I've tried green gobbler, multiple applications and letting is sit for 2-3 days. I've removed the plate to the overflow, and tried snaking it with 2 different thickness of snake, and a drain weasel. the snake just won't go more than like a 8 inches. I've also tried plunging it, but some water splashed out the overflow and nothing changed. Right now, my best guess is the plunger is stuck and blocking the snake from going down the pipe and the tub from draining. Is that possible? I should also note that when removing the overflow cover, there was nothing connected to the other side and no linkage found behind it.

Going on this assumption(that a plunger was causing the issue), I found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1Nxuxa_ja0 and attempted to fish it out, with no luck. every 20-30 tries, the hook seems to catch on something, but whatever it is refuses to budge and eventually the hook comes out.

there is no access panel to the pipes and some fool that owned the house before I was born TILED the entire bathroom so it will be a major production to get access to them.

What am I missing? What else can I try? TYVM!

Just curious what would be the best way to change this one sink drain plumbing to 2. The upper drain is for a bathroom sink on the other side of the wall. Appreciate any insight.

After a spoon found its way into my garbage disposal without me seeing it, I turned it on. I quickly turned it off and removed the spoon, but then whatever this thing is was stuck in the garbage disposal. I fished it out and have no idea what it is or what it goes to. Like the title says, what is it and how do I fix it?

Noticed today when I was refilling salt in the water softener. It’s a drip that goes directly into my French drain in the basement. Is there an easy fix since it seems to be from a cap that is not in use?

we thought our caulk failed when we noticed corner of shower staying wet. Thought maybe condensation. Today we pulled baseboard off the other side of the wall and found this. Walls are covered in mold, and we can’t even get to the pipe. We have no essential money to call plumber, any advice would be appreciated. just at a loss.

Very minimal plumbing knowledge here. When a low flow condition exists such as the fridge water pitcher filling or cracking a faucet partially open there’s a loud high pitch sound coming from our pipes.

It is a different sound than air trapped in lines. I have disconnected the fridge and flushed the lines so I know it is water solid and doesn’t have trapped air.

When I cycle my main house shut off the noise sometime stops. I don’t know if it’s some debris or something on the city side of my meter. I think it could be my dual check valve on my side of the meter but I’m not sure. It’s hard to tell where the vibration comes from. But overall my water pressure is not affected. It just sounds bad when any low flow conditions exist, but clears up as soon as a faucet is full open.

Not sure if anyone has had any experience with anything similar.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

Hi all, per title, had to pull the old hose out as my son had snapped the vege mixer at the plastic, i was told i can just buy a new vege mixer head and hose which i have done, per photos, i simply can not feed the hose down to under the sink, it fees like its just hitting a brick wall / dead end, any tips or do i have to remove the whole tap fixture? appreciate your help.

Trying to ask a licensed plumber what they recommend as most reliable /functional water conditioner as I am in process of updating all my plumbing for a full house repipe and planning on going with smart toilets /water conditioner

I had existing pex supply lines for the hallway sink, run through ceiling joists in my house and reconnected to existing copper lines. I went to wash my hands in the hallway sink hours later and there is low hot & cold water pressure. When I contact the plumber, do you think he should charge me to fix it or not?

I checked the shutoff valves below the sink and I can't budge them counterclockwise, so I think they're both fully open. I tried running water on all the house's sinks in case there was air in the lines and there was no pressure change in the hallway sink. If there is anything else I can try, please let me know.

I made a post the other day about this plumbing but about something else but i got roasted for not having any venting.

So, i ended up redoing this plumbing and added a AAV vent and curious what others think. Not ideal but better than nothing. Its not practical to tie into the main stack vent here. This is under a kitchen sink and nothing is glued together yet. Just dry fitted for now.

New homeowner. The RO system in this house hasnt run in the last 5 years at least, to my knowledge. The water here is extremely hard and I'd like to get RO set up without overpaying a company. Would something like this be able to just start running again? Could I just buy a new system myself and just plug it in using the existing connections? Any direction for assessing what's already here would be greatly appreciated. When it comes to actually installing and setting everything up, I'll do my due research.

Hi everyone. I will start by saying that my knowledge about this is basically 0%, but i was hoping i could get some help on how i can fix the flush valve issue i have myself. I really appreciate any help provided!

My flush valve (is this the right name?) has been making this hissing sound which seems to be caused by water constantly flowing into the tube thing. Hopefully the video shows it well, but can someone please help shed a light on what the issue is here and how to fix it?

Thank you very much!

Hi all, my hot water got scalding hot recently. I was thinking about replacing the thermostats. When searching online I am having a hard time finding the exact numbers that are inscribed. I suspect some of the numbers relate to the manufacturing date etc.

Can you all point me in the right direction to make sure I get the exact one? I see plenty that are 59T 4195. But haven't seen 59T 4190.

Thanks!

Got in a little far over my tools and abilities. Just bought this older house and got my first water bill.....a tad high. Found a drip at a outside spigot/PVC/Sprinkler system and fixed that.

Now tackling this bathroom drip. Trying to replace the fixtures with new Delta. Hot water stem very corroded and now soaking in liquid wrench. Just got a new basin wrench to hopefully sort this out tomorrow.

Looking forward at the drain thinger. This looks very corroded all the drain pipe is metal. I have zero experience with this metal.

Hoping you all have some advice (other than my purse). Should I just leave that old gold drain piece in or replace it with the new bronze stuff that came with the faucet? Or is this going to be a sheeit show to get out and do proper. Transition to PVC perhaps, and what is the best way to do that?

Appreciate your thoughts and time.

Hello!

Long story short - this sink was not used for close to a year and is now overflowing some water and mostly soap bubbles when water is running. Should I plug the top ribbed pipe (circled with red) from which it is overflowing or will this cause other issues?

This AO Smith 50 gal water heater is 2 years old. I decided to replace the anode rod because I have soft water and my previous heater only lasted 8 years. I could not get the anode rod out easily. I had to use an air impact wrench. I placed a new anode rod into this hole and it leaked. I could not get it to stop leaking. I put the old rod back in and it stopped leaking. I have another new rod that I can try but if the 3/4 inch NPT threads are ruined, I don’t want to destroy a perfectly good anode rod. The heater is under warranty. I spoke to tech support and he seemed to indicate they over tighten the anode rods at the factory. What would you do?