Had the death wobble for the first time on my way home and had to come to a complete stop for it to stop. Drove about 3 hours today and had the same thing happen. Noticed my truck was over heating, pulled over and put coolant in it since the tank was empty but the reservoir was full. Drove about another 2 hours and it over heated again, reservoir was empty. Put coolant in it, made it home but there is a small portion of the coolant missing.

Any ideas as to what’s going on? My fan has always ran when driving the truck so I’m wondering what the issue may really be.

2021 wrangler JL 3.6.

Hey everyone, I originally took my 2004 Toyota Camry V6 to the shop to get a vehicle speed sensor replacement to solve this issue but it wasn’t the case.

I ended up replacing the transmission as well and I’m still having this issue where my speedometer doesn’t register and the RPM stays stagnant(sometimes drops and causes my RPM to shoot up)

My mechanic tried to trouble shoot and figure out the problem but could do so..

I was wondering if anyone here would know?

Just had my 2009 Mazda 2 1.3l serviced and the mechanic used 0w-20 when the specifications say to use 5w-30. I questioned him on it before he put it in and he insisted it’s fine and it doesn’t matter. I’m not sure whether to believe him.

Is it likely to cause any damage to my engine? Is it safe to use until next oil change or do I need to get it changed immediately?

Trying trying to change spark plugs and cylinder one boot looks different than the rest. It’s a 1998 Honda Honda Accord.

Trying to get this old beater truck I got for free passed the safety on the cheap so I can transfer the title. Trying to do it on a budget. I know i could new shoes on here easy enough, and have the skills to do it, but it seems like there is a fair amount of pad left, but i'm worried that they'll fail me on those chipped corners. thoughts?

Hi everyone,
I received a brand-new SACHS clutch kit (part number 3000 951 790) today.
When I unpacked it, I noticed a green, viscous substance on the back of the dual-mass flywheel. It looks like it might be coming from inside the flywheel.
I've attached some pictures showing the substance and the areas where it appears to be leaking.
Has anyone seen this on a brand-new SACHS dual-mass flywheel?
I'm wondering:
• Could this simply be normal grease, or does it look like a leak?

• Could it be a manufacturing defect or damage caused during shipping?

**• Would you install this clutch kit as it is, or return it and request a replacement?**

I don't want to install it only to discover later that the flywheel is faulty.
Any advice or experience with SACHS dual-mass flywheels would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

Hi I’m a newbie diy, please help me

2007 toyota camry 175k miles

The pistol ring is extremely worn, it burns oil a lot. So the spark plug head is very dirty with burn oil, causing misfire

I was told me to get a non fouler to protect the spark plug head, but it create more clearance, push out the coil (see photos), and i cannot screw down the coil to fasten it.

What should i do? Thank you

Hey, I would greatly appreciate if anyone could let me know what the part circled in red is?

It would be underneath the intercooler but that is out.

I snapped the banjo bolt that seems to have an oil feed through it and need to order a new one. Bonus points if anyone knows the size of the bolt and thread!

Thanks in advance :)

Hi friends. A plastic water bottle cover clung onto my girlfriend's exhaust pipe while driving and the plastic seems to have melted on from the heat (idek how it managed to stay attached at freeway speeds). Does anyone know a way to get something like this off without damaging the exhaust pipe itself? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

Car specs: 2021 Rav4 XSE Hybrid

Car stopped running while driving, engine turned off had to pull over. Any idea what it may be ? Bad battery or starter ?

EDIT:

-Car doesn’t crank at all
-Electronics still work
-Fuel is working
-Dash lit up while driving, engine shut off and I had to coast the car to the side of the road
-When I try to start it up, half the lights go out including the in car rgb lights

Note: no lights were on prior, was driving car and it was starting to switch gear, the whole dash lit up engine shut off and i coasted to the side of the road.

I have a 2011 Chevy Traverse 3.6 V6 engine.
I have recently replaced the alternator and the serpentine belt and that made the squealing go away for the summer but now that the temps have dropped again (<20 degrees F) the squeal is back with a vengeance. It’s really bad when I go out to start my car up but quiets down in about 2 minutes. But when I begin driving and touch the gas, it gets really loud again and does not stop for my whole drive. The volume of the squeal correlates completely with my RPMs (higher rpm=louder squeal).
I’m just not sure what to do or how to diagnose. Any help is appreciated!

I know there’s a lot of discourse on whether or not to change the transmission fluid on modern cars, and I don’t know what to really follow. I have a 2017 Mazda 3 grand touring with 65k miles on it and I’d like to keep this car for as long as possible. Should I change the fluid right now, wait, keep it or do something different? I don’t want to keep prolonging maintenance, cause I know there’s a threshold with transmission fluid changes.

https://reddit.com/link/1x6yiez/video/3kuo3sh2bpvh1/player

2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L 4 cylinder. Noticed light smoke and burning smell coming from under hood. Opening hood saw smoke emanating from rear of engine, toward the line that plugs into exhuast at bottom of the rear of engine. What is that line - it looks damp/black at the connection. See pictures / video. Is this a manifold gasket leak? Coolant? Something Else? How critical is this to fix in a timely manner? Can I try to tighten the valve cover bolts?

Good afternoon folks! As the title says I’ve got an 07 Tahoe that won’t start after removing my father’s lights and siren from the vehicle. I was able to run it fine the next day with no issue, but after letting it sit overnight, the car will not come to life. I’ve included a video of be attempting to start the car.

My initial suspect was an automatic starter put into the car, but after disconnecting it, the issue still persists.

My intuition is telling me it’s a bad ground somewhere, but I would like to verify with others before diving any deeper.

any advice or further questions are more than welcome! Thank you for your time!

It’s lifted off the ground by a jack

Honda civic 2007

after rebuilding a tdo4 turbo with a rebuild kit I realize that I forgot to mark the original position of the compressor bolt.

google tells me this has completely destroyed the balance of my turbo and I will need to do VSR rebalancing to correct this mistake

is the issue that serious? could I use the origional bolt and torque it to spec to achieve the same balance as before?

Peterbilt 389 shock bushings on rear drive. Would you run 80,000 lbs at 70mph on these? One of the front drives is as bad as well.

2004 Chevy Silverado, truck was off, pulled fuel pump relay still was running drained battery too low to start. Only seems to stop when I unhook the battery Can’t figure out what it is ?

Guys I tried using my wolfbox jump starter on a cold 6.7 Powerstroke after it sat for a few days and only clicked. The pack was fully charged and has worked fine on smaller gas vehicles, but after two short crank attempts the clamps and leads were warmer than I liked. I stopped there because dual batteries plus glow plugs seems like a very different load than a normal gas car. Terminals were cleaned first and the pack had been charged inside overnight, so I do not think it was just a bad connection. For diesel techs, are portable lithium jump starters like the wolfbox jump starter realistic for cold powerstrokes, or is this a job for a shop jump box / heavy cables? What rating matters beyond the huge peak amp number?

I am having issues replacing the VVT gear on my Toyota RAV4 4 cylinder 2AR-F. I swapped out the gear with a replacement part. After installation, the car idles roughly, and when I try to shift into reverse, the engine wants to die. There is no clanking or rattling when the engine is running. The chain appears to be in the correct position, and the gear locked after installation per the instructions. What am I missing and what could be the problem?

When parking on a hill or in general, is it better to:

Stop → Parking brake → Park.

Or

Stop → Neutral → Parking brake → Park.

Does the second method actually protect the parking pawl better, or is the Neutral step unnecessary?

Hey everyone this is my 2026 Honda civic. It has about 20,000 miles on her.

After I start driving I notice a clunking when I turn. It is a lot louder at lower speeds and while parked. I also
Notice when I’m driving on the highway and keep
My wheels turned to the left / right the steering feels like the lane assist is on when it is not.

I’m bringing it to the dealer tomorrow to get looked at but I’m curious if anyone else has ran into similar issues. I’m a little upset because it’s a new car, granted it has some miles but still new. I hope it’s something simple.