Hey everyone, I originally took my 2004 Toyota Camry V6 to the shop to get a vehicle speed sensor replacement to solve this issue but it wasn’t the case.

I ended up replacing the transmission as well and I’m still having this issue where my speedometer doesn’t register and the RPM stays stagnant(sometimes drops and causes my RPM to shoot up)

My mechanic tried to trouble shoot and figure out the problem but could do so..

I was wondering if anyone here would know?

Trying trying to change spark plugs and cylinder one boot looks different than the rest. It’s a 1998 Honda Honda Accord.

I am having issues replacing the VVT gear on my Toyota RAV4 4 cylinder 2AR-F. I swapped out the gear with a replacement part. After installation, the car idles roughly, and when I try to shift into reverse, the engine wants to die. There is no clanking or rattling when the engine is running. The chain appears to be in the correct position, and the gear locked after installation per the instructions. What am I missing and what could be the problem?

Had the death wobble for the first time on my way home and had to come to a complete stop for it to stop. Drove about 3 hours today and had the same thing happen. Noticed my truck was over heating, pulled over and put coolant in it since the tank was empty but the reservoir was full. Drove about another 2 hours and it over heated again, reservoir was empty. Put coolant in it, made it home but there is a small portion of the coolant missing.

Any ideas as to what’s going on? My fan has always ran when driving the truck so I’m wondering what the issue may really be.

2021 wrangler JL 3.6.

Hi everyone,
I have a 2009 Citroën C1 1.0 petrol (1KR-FE, manual transmission) with only 47,000 km (approximately 29,200 miles) on the clock.
The car runs and drives perfectly fine, but I’ve noticed a strange rattling noise when accelerating.
Description of the noise:
It’s a relatively light but noticeable, raspy, tinny metallic rattling sound.
A rough, raspy, metallic rattling or buzzing noise that occurs under acceleration. It sounds like a thin metal component vibrating rapidly.
It seems to come from the front of the car, although it’s difficult to pinpoint.
The noise becomes louder and more pronounced the harder I accelerate.
Even under light throttle, the noise is audible.
As soon as I release the accelerator, the noise disappears completely.
What I’ve tested:
In 3rd gear at 90–95 km/h (56–59 mph), I cannot hear the rattling.
In 4th gear at approximately the same speed, the rattling is clearly noticeable.
The engine runs smoothly, with no hesitation, loss of power or unusual vibrations.
I remember hearing a similar noise approximately 1–1.5 years ago, so it doesn’t seem to be a recent development.
The car has only covered around 2,000 km (1,240 miles) over the past two years.
Audio recording:
I’ve recorded the noise while accelerating. It becomes more noticeable from approximately 5 seconds into the recording.
Unfortunately, the recording doesn’t capture it nearly as clearly as it sounds in person.
I’m wondering whether this could be caused by a loose exhaust heat shield, exhaust resonance or a small exhaust leak, or whether it might be related to the gearbox or engine under load.
Has anyone experienced a similar noise with a Citroën C1, Peugeot 107 or Toyota Aygo 1.0?
Any ideas about what might be causing this or what I should check first would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

My husband attempted to do an oil change on my 2016 mazda cx9, the next morning I tried to back out of our driveway and i hit reverse and it went in reverse and then i put it in drive and it went into reverse, so then i tried to put it in reverse and it went into drive. I immediately put it in park and turned it off. I waited about 30 minutes and it went into drive correctly and i was able to park the vehicle in a perfect position but then when i put it in reverse to back it up a bit, it just stayed there, rpms did go up, but no movement.
he later called me to tell me he accidentally drained the transmission fluid and added the new oil into the old oiI. after learning this, i didn’t drive the car for two days, and he eventually added the amount of transmission fluid he drained and drained the motor oil and added the new oil. He drove it and checked the levels and everything was fine. We drove it the next day all day everything was good. I drove it to work and back and everything seems fine, i’m just hyper vigilant now on every little slight movement in the vehicle since my last vehicle (gmc acadia) went to shit, transmission definitely went out on me while driving. today he drove it to lawrenceville (we live in powder springs) and back home and everything was smooth. I’m just worried and nervous when i drive the car. My question is; will the car be fine?

Working on a 2000 Toyota echo in australia. I had to remove the drive shaft for something else and I’m reinstalling now. When I removed the driveshaft I peeled the boot back and used a slide hammer, but a ton of grease ended up falling out the shell at the end and boot. I’m planning to degrease the tripod and shell, then degrease them and use the old clamp again. is this okay practice? Also the retaining clip at the end is slightly deformed, is it okay if I reuse that too? Is it worth getting a new one?

Btw in the photo the boots are back on, as a mechanic did that for me, but he never regreased it and I think that them missing a substantial amount of grease is risky.

Thanks

Its a 2011 v6 mustang I plan to go look at today, but in the description he says

"Windshield wipers started going off randomly and wouldn't let me turn them off. So I replaced the whole stalk, the wiper assembly, and the wiper motor. It still does it but randomly."

I just followed the instructions step by step and it looks good. But nothing is working here! No light, no vibrations, no sound. What did I do wrong? I even moved the small red botton far right corner and it is not reacting at all

Peugot 208 1.6l vti 4 cyl 2015

Car sounds like a tractor, doesn't matter if it's driven for half an hour or just from a cold start, noise is always there.

- New spark plugs torqued to spec

- one ignition coil was replaced by a mechanic on last service with a Bosch branded one

- no OBD2 codes or misfires in live data monitoring

- used seafoam from full tank to empty and again with a PEA injector cleaner

Is it something serious? I'm at a loss as it's out of my skill set now

Hi friends. A plastic water bottle cover clung onto my girlfriend's exhaust pipe while driving and the plastic seems to have melted on from the heat (idek how it managed to stay attached at freeway speeds). Does anyone know a way to get something like this off without damaging the exhaust pipe itself? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

Car specs: 2021 Rav4 XSE Hybrid

Replacing Nissan Altima motor mount and overall it’s the same shape but the rubber pad is a different shape and there’s no rubber washer on the bottom. Is this normal? Bought it from o’Rileys and it doesn’t match their picture either.

I have a 2015 Chevy Malibu and my brother dipped my car key into a candle and I didn’t really notice till I had already put my key in the car. I took it out after and cleaned the rest of the wax out and went in my ignition with a Q-tip and a bobby pin…(sorry) now it’s kind of just a greasy residue and I’m kind of stranded in Indiana visiting my mom and I have a 2 Hour Dr. home tomorrow. I’m 17 years old so it would be a lot of trouble for me to call a mechanic to look at literally nothing. Do you think I’m safe to drive home?
Or anywhere actually

2014 Kia sorento v6. Issue first began while I was driving and my battery started to go out, loss of power steering etc, battery wasn’t getting a charge from alternator. Replaced alternator and worked for a week or two, same issue happened. Checked all the fuses, checked the positive terminal on the alternator to make sure it had the same charge, put in a new alternator in case the last one was just a faulty rebuild as well as a new battery. Same thing, battery isnt getting any charge. Everything is plugged in, alternator is spinning, it’s also creating no magnetism. Im guessing it’s something in the charging wiring but any help would be appreciated im running out of ideas.

Working on a 2000 Toyota echo in australia. I had to remove the drive shaft for something else and I’m reinstalling now. When I removed the driveshaft I peeled the boot back and used a slide hammer, but a ton of grease ended up falling out the shell at the end and boot. I’m planning to degrease the tripod and shell, then degrease them and use the old clamp again. is this okay practice? Also the retaining clip at the end is slightly deformed, is it okay if I reuse that too? Is it worth getting a new one?

Btw in the photo the boots are back on, as a mechanic did that for me, but he never regreased it and I think that them missing a substantial amount of grease is risky.

Thanks

I have a 2006 Suzuki ignis 1.3 fwd. I have to drive for about 700 km in 2 days and I just found out that the oil filter mount is leaking where its bolted to the side of the engine. My oil level is still ok. Can I drive this distance and then take it to a mechanic or is it something that needs to be addressed immediately?(The attached image is a diagram of the engine and the part that leaking is the o-ring number 20)

I have a bmw 330i with a valvetronic exhaust on it, the car had a catless downpipe I put the stock one back in but whenever I have the windows or sunroof open I get carbon readings inside the cabin especially when given lots of gas

No the car doesn’t have an exhaust leak because I have been chasing this issue for a while and got the whole system checked, how do I resolve this it’s doing my head in

Also what are safe levels to drive the car?

Just had my 2009 Mazda 2 1.3l serviced and the mechanic used 0w-20 when the specifications say to use 5w-30. I questioned him on it before he put it in and he insisted it’s fine and it doesn’t matter. I’m not sure whether to believe him.

Is it likely to cause any damage to my engine? Is it safe to use until next oil change or do I need to get it changed immediately?

I know there’s a lot of discourse on whether or not to change the transmission fluid on modern cars, and I don’t know what to really follow. I have a 2017 Mazda 3 grand touring with 65k miles on it and I’d like to keep this car for as long as possible. Should I change the fluid right now, wait, keep it or do something different? I don’t want to keep prolonging maintenance, cause I know there’s a threshold with transmission fluid changes.