I get these weird artifacts that looks like some sort of extrusion issues. Could it be that i have tuned pressure advance incorrectly?

Printer: Voron 2 + DragonBurner (Orbiter 2.5 + Bambu X1 Hotend)
Slicer OrcaSlicer 2.4.2
Meterial: Sunlu ASA
Temperatures: 270/100
Speed: 160 mm/s
Retraction: 0.8 mm

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an ELEGOO CC2 and I started designing and printing some Halloween decorations. I designed some thin decoration (1,2 mm thick) with multicolour, but when I Printed them I noticed some black spots and looking at the slicer (I am using Elegoo slicer) , between the first and the last layer it creates some strange square black square at the contours. There are some setting I can toggle to eliminate it or change the colour?

I’ve mostly worked with PLA+, PETG, and TPU up until now, so getting into engineering-grade materials has been something I’ve been looking forward to.
These are parts for my BIQU Panda Breath riser, and I’m really happy with how they turned out. Definitely wasn’t without some trial and error, though.
I dried the SUNLU PA6-CF in my SUNLU E2 for 24 hours at 100°C, then printed directly from the dryer while maintaining 80°C throughout the print.
Warping and bed adhesion were probably my biggest hurdles. After a few frustrating attempts, I found that letting the chamber heat soak for just about an hour made a huge difference in getting consistent adhesion to my Darkmoon CFX plate.
Once I got past those issues, the results really surprised me. The surface finish, rigidity, and overall quality are fantastic.
Running a P1S with a 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle and Darkmoon CFX plate.
Still plenty to learn and fine-tune, but I’m genuinely excited to start exploring what I can make with this material. Functional printing is where this hobby really gets interesting for me.
Would love to hear what everyone else has been making with PA6-CF!

I've cleaned the bed, dried the filament, lubricated and greased the machine, done flow rate calibration, flow dynamics calibration, bed leveling, XY belt tensioning, and ran the Bambu Lab calibration. (Unedited Bambu Studio profile "0.30mm Standard @ BBL H2C 0.6 nozzle")

Printer: Bambu Lab H2C
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Material: Bambu Lab PLA Basic

Temperatures: 220/55

Print Speeds: Initial layer: 50 mm/s, Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s, Outer wall: 200 mm/s, Inner wall: 300 mm/s, Small perimeters: 50%, Sparse infill: 350 mm/s, Internal solid infill: 250 mm/s, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200 mm/s, Bridge: 30 mm/s, Gap infill: 50 mm/s, Support: 150 mm/s, Support interface: 80 mm/s, Travel: 1000 mm/s.

Acceleration: Normal printing 8000 mm/s², Travel: 10000 mm/s², Initial layer travel: 6000 mm/s², Initial layer: 500 mm/s², Outer wall: 5000 mm/s², Inner wall: 0 mm/s², Top surface: 2000 mm/s², Sparse infill: 100%.

Overhang speed: 10: 0 mm/s, 25%: 50 mm/s, 50%: 30 mm/s, 75%: 10 mm/s, 100%: 10 mm/s.

Retraction Settings: Length: .4mm, Z Hop Type: Spiral, Wipe While Retracting: Enabled, Wipe Distance: 1mm.

Printer : Ender3 V3 Se

Filament: PLA Basic

Slicer: Orca

The layer lines at the same height as holes/slots looks different.

1st print is the baseline.

2nd print: At first troubleshooting, I thought this is ghosting/echoing. Hence I reduced speed and acceleration by 50%. 50ms, 500ms2. The improvement was negligible.

3rd print: Found one post on this sub with the same issue and it was identified that Layer time was the culprit. Hence I updated the cooling parameter to have maximum fan layer time as 16sec, which is the time it took to print the layers within hole section. The improvement was quite significant.

How do I fix the start and end layer difference which you see in print 3.

Help is appreciated

hey y'all!!

Been printing off these little card borders, printed two sets successfully at 0.08 layer height, then unloaded filament and reloaded it. Afterwards, prints have come out completely cooked. It's dry, I seriously doubt travel speed, any ideas?? I have never seen anything like this before. The left most one was printed before the right.

Cheers!

I'm working on some arcade controllers. This is my first time using Choc V1 keyboard microswitches.

I downloaded a Choc v1 button from makerworld and duplicated the other guy's measurements for the part that sticks into the microswitch.

When I print his button... it works. When I print my button with the same dimensions, it does not work.

What am I doing wrong here because it's making me crazy!!

• Printer Model - Bambu P1s
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.) - Bambu Studio
• Filament material and brand - Aliexpress PETG
• Nozzle and bed temperature - Nozzle - 255c / Bed - 75C
• Print Speed - 50 and then 105mm/s
• Retraction set - ?

I've been having trouble with large prints that take up the whole build plate, warping and actually bending the build plate in my X2D. I've read that increasing bed and chamber temps can improve this. Anyone have recommendations for these temperatures?

Pla+, Kobra pro 2, ultiMaker Cura, 218°C, 90mm/s,

Things ai has suggested that I've done...

Reduce layer height (now .12)

Increase skin overlap percentage (now 27%)

Decrease retraction distance (now 1mm)

This is for an airplane so the wall count can not be higher than 1 and the infill can be no higher than 3%. I have tested with different tempatures & speed. I have made sure there is no blockage in the printer by pushing filament through manually and also performing cold pulls. The PLA+ is fresh out of the air sealed packaging. I have printed tons in the past this is the first time and it is the worst with the tree support.

Bambu p2s with bambulabs slicer, standard profile, but see the temp tower that didn't appear to show any issues. Pictured is PETG, but have tried ABS with the same results.

Appreciate any help, I'm not sure what to do next.

I have been printing on my x1 carbon with Asa for some time now and have never seen this happen. Any suggestions?

I’m not sure how to post all my printing settings. The settings are basically normal besides 5% infill

I'm having a multicolour first-layer problem on my Qidi Q2 with Qidi Box. The first colour prints well. Every colour printed after it has visible gaps between the lines on the first layer. No matter which colour I start with, the first always prints well, the others develop more and more gaps after the colour swaps.

The filaments im using are a mix of different PLAs (Basic, PLA+ and Silk) on a Qidi Cold Plate.

Plate is washed with dawn soap and warm water between each print.

All filament flow ratios, initial layer flow ratios, pressure advance and temperatures were calibrated for all four filaments.

Bed levelling is checked through Kamp before the print starts and Z-Offset is checked at the beginning of the print.

Initial layer print speed tested: 50mm/s, 75mm/s and the default 105mm/s.

The image attached is an example of what I’m getting. Black was printed first, then red, then green.

WHAT I'VE TRIED / FOUND
• Cleaned the extruder gear.
• Changed the nozzle to a new one.
• Reviewed the project settings and the sliced G-code: the slicer sends the same extrusion amount per mm for every colour, so it isn't under-extruding by design.
• Raised the first-layer nozzle temperature by at least 5 °C on the later colours: no change.
• Many test prints with coloured strips playing with settings and nothing would improve.
• Measured first-layer thickness of a failed test print by print order (target 0.20 mm layer thickness): black (1st) 0.22 mm, red (2nd) 0.25 mm, green (3rd) 0.28 mm. The nozzle appeared to sit higher with each colour change.
• Printed 7 same-colour strips over 50 minutes with no colour changes: all 0.22-0.23 mm, so there is no thermal drift over time.
• This is leading me to believe there might be a Z height drift every time the bed is repositioned after the colour swap.
• Tried test strips modifying the initial flow rate for each colour and that had no effect on quality for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th colour.

Anyone seen this before? Any solutions to suggest?
What could be causing these gaps?
Is there a way to check if the Z-axis height isn’t what it’s supposed to be after a colour change?

Thanks in advance

Bambu X1

Testing with ASB

This is the best result I've got from these supports. All sides are good except the support side. I'd appreciate any pointers!

Centauri carbon
Filament - abs
Nozzle - 0.6mm 250-260
Bed - 105
Chamber - 50-60

Ive tried different inner outter orders, slowing down outter wall, slowing print speed and messed woth layer heights and widths

Please debug my problem I am using ASA from num makers and I am using 260c for nozzle and 105c for bed

So was printing something from a friend and the Creality Yellow filament I’m using turned green? Any advice or thoughts? I’m using yellow, orange, and black on the main nozzle of my X2D. It’s interesting but not the color I want right now…..though might be nice to replicate for green parts down the line.

I am trying to print a rather large print and it is failing every single time. I have just switched filaments (elegoo PETG.) and this new filament will not print past the first layer. The filament is freshly dried for 10 hours, I adjusted the leveling, the flow rate, messed with retraction, cleaned the plate before and after many times, and slowed the speed down. it is still coming out in a huge blob and getting caught along the plate. the temperature ive been trying though it hasn't helped when being changed is 245 first layer then go down to 240 with a bed of 80 degrees. im tired of pulling these blobs out of the extruder so hopefully its a setting I'm missing... thanks for any and all help, I'm trying to make a cosplay for halloween :) the machine itself is a neptune plus 4

Printed this model and have these weird bumps towards the back of the blade. Printed on my mostly stock Ender 3 V2 and the orientation is how it was printed in the first picture. Model link is this: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2576196-bonesaw#profileId-2840812

Edit: Slicer: CURA Filament : Creality PLA Print speed: 50 mm/s Bed temperature: 50 C Nozzle temperature: 200 C

I am getting an alert that the nozzle control is abnormal but I'm not sure how to fix this, this is what the alert looks like and what behind the nozzle looks like. It doesn't seem to be damaged but I could be wrong! Thank you for any advice!