hey y'all!!

Been printing off these little card borders, printed two sets successfully at 0.08 layer height, then unloaded filament and reloaded it. Afterwards, prints have come out completely cooked. It's dry, I seriously doubt travel speed, any ideas?? I have never seen anything like this before. The left most one was printed before the right.

Cheers!

I'm working on some arcade controllers. This is my first time using Choc V1 keyboard microswitches.

I downloaded a Choc v1 button from makerworld and duplicated the other guy's measurements for the part that sticks into the microswitch.

When I print his button... it works. When I print my button with the same dimensions, it does not work.

What am I doing wrong here because it's making me crazy!!

• Printer Model - Bambu P1s
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.) - Bambu Studio
• Filament material and brand - Aliexpress PETG
• Nozzle and bed temperature - Nozzle - 255c / Bed - 75C
• Print Speed - 50 and then 105mm/s
• Retraction set - ?

I've been having trouble with large prints that take up the whole build plate, warping and actually bending the build plate in my X2D. I've read that increasing bed and chamber temps can improve this. Anyone have recommendations for these temperatures?

Pla+, Kobra pro 2, ultiMaker Cura, 218°C, 90mm/s,

Things ai has suggested that I've done...

Reduce layer height (now .12)

Increase skin overlap percentage (now 27%)

Decrease retraction distance (now 1mm)

This is for an airplane so the wall count can not be higher than 1 and the infill can be no higher than 3%. I have tested with different tempatures & speed. I have made sure there is no blockage in the printer by pushing filament through manually and also performing cold pulls. The PLA+ is fresh out of the air sealed packaging. I have printed tons in the past this is the first time and it is the worst with the tree support.

Bambu p2s with bambulabs slicer, standard profile, but see the temp tower that didn't appear to show any issues. Pictured is PETG, but have tried ABS with the same results.

Appreciate any help, I'm not sure what to do next.

I have been printing on my x1 carbon with Asa for some time now and have never seen this happen. Any suggestions?

I’m not sure how to post all my printing settings. The settings are basically normal besides 5% infill

I'm having a multicolour first-layer problem on my Qidi Q2 with Qidi Box. The first colour prints well. Every colour printed after it has visible gaps between the lines on the first layer. No matter which colour I start with, the first always prints well, the others develop more and more gaps after the colour swaps.

The filaments im using are a mix of different PLAs (Basic, PLA+ and Silk) on a Qidi Cold Plate.

Plate is washed with dawn soap and warm water between each print.

All filament flow ratios, initial layer flow ratios, pressure advance and temperatures were calibrated for all four filaments.

Bed levelling is checked through Kamp before the print starts and Z-Offset is checked at the beginning of the print.

Initial layer print speed tested: 50mm/s, 75mm/s and the default 105mm/s.

The image attached is an example of what I’m getting. Black was printed first, then red, then green.

WHAT I'VE TRIED / FOUND
• Cleaned the extruder gear.
• Changed the nozzle to a new one.
• Reviewed the project settings and the sliced G-code: the slicer sends the same extrusion amount per mm for every colour, so it isn't under-extruding by design.
• Raised the first-layer nozzle temperature by at least 5 °C on the later colours: no change.
• Many test prints with coloured strips playing with settings and nothing would improve.
• Measured first-layer thickness of a failed test print by print order (target 0.20 mm layer thickness): black (1st) 0.22 mm, red (2nd) 0.25 mm, green (3rd) 0.28 mm. The nozzle appeared to sit higher with each colour change.
• Printed 7 same-colour strips over 50 minutes with no colour changes: all 0.22-0.23 mm, so there is no thermal drift over time.
• This is leading me to believe there might be a Z height drift every time the bed is repositioned after the colour swap.
• Tried test strips modifying the initial flow rate for each colour and that had no effect on quality for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th colour.

Anyone seen this before? Any solutions to suggest?
What could be causing these gaps?
Is there a way to check if the Z-axis height isn’t what it’s supposed to be after a colour change?

Thanks in advance

Bambu X1

Testing with ASB

This is the best result I've got from these supports. All sides are good except the support side. I'd appreciate any pointers!

Centauri carbon
Filament - abs
Nozzle - 0.6mm 250-260
Bed - 105
Chamber - 50-60

Ive tried different inner outter orders, slowing down outter wall, slowing print speed and messed woth layer heights and widths

Please debug my problem I am using ASA from num makers and I am using 260c for nozzle and 105c for bed

So was printing something from a friend and the Creality Yellow filament I’m using turned green? Any advice or thoughts? I’m using yellow, orange, and black on the main nozzle of my X2D. It’s interesting but not the color I want right now…..though might be nice to replicate for green parts down the line.

I am trying to print a rather large print and it is failing every single time. I have just switched filaments (elegoo PETG.) and this new filament will not print past the first layer. The filament is freshly dried for 10 hours, I adjusted the leveling, the flow rate, messed with retraction, cleaned the plate before and after many times, and slowed the speed down. it is still coming out in a huge blob and getting caught along the plate. the temperature ive been trying though it hasn't helped when being changed is 245 first layer then go down to 240 with a bed of 80 degrees. im tired of pulling these blobs out of the extruder so hopefully its a setting I'm missing... thanks for any and all help, I'm trying to make a cosplay for halloween :) the machine itself is a neptune plus 4

Printed this model and have these weird bumps towards the back of the blade. Printed on my mostly stock Ender 3 V2 and the orientation is how it was printed in the first picture. Model link is this: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2576196-bonesaw#profileId-2840812

Edit: Slicer: CURA Filament : Creality PLA Print speed: 50 mm/s Bed temperature: 50 C Nozzle temperature: 200 C

I am getting an alert that the nozzle control is abnormal but I'm not sure how to fix this, this is what the alert looks like and what behind the nozzle looks like. It doesn't seem to be damaged but I could be wrong! Thank you for any advice!

​

Hi everyone, I need some help!

Originally, I was dealing with severe heat creep where the filament kept clogging right in the middle of the printhead.

To fix it, we replaced both the hotend cooling fan (axial) and the part cooling fan (blower), but the issue persisted—it would jam every 2 or 3 prints.

Eventually, we noticed the filament was sticking right past the PTFE tube, inside the metal heatbreak. So we decided to buy and install a brand-new hotend assembly.

After replacing it, the hotend heats up properly and melts filament smoothly when pushed manually through the nozzle. However, the actual problem now is that we have to push it manually: the extruder stepper motor won't engage at all, and the dual gears aren't spinning.

When we open the extruder casing / housing and turn the gears inside by hand, everything rotates freely, so there doesn't seem to be a mechanical jam. It just seems like the motor isn't receiving any power or step signals. I don't understand why this happened, since the motor was working fine before the hotend swap.

What could be causing this? AI narrowed it down to two main possibilities: either the extruder stepper motor died, or the toolhead breakout PCB (or its driver/cable) failed.

What do you guys think? Does that sound accurate, or is there something obvious we might be missing? Any advice is appreciated!

Reposted here for extra visibility

Hello, on my Ender 3 V3 SE running Klipper, I get regular horizontal lines on the walls (layers look very slightly shifted, very visible with light behind the part), and holes printed sideways come out oval

Slicer : OrcaSlicer
Filament : Anycubic PETG White (230°C 70°C)

Designed hole diameter: 15.85 mm
Printed width: 15.7 mm
Printed height: 14.5 mm

Does someone know how to fix that ?