Que es el la electricidad si no es el flujo de electrones, ni el movimiento y la interacción de cargas eléctricas?

Found a baseboard heater that had the wire fallen on the radiator blades and melt a little.

I’m debating with myself and electrician friends if it is a good idea to repair it by running a new wire. It’s the wire that goes from one end to the other and I found a wire with similar specs and an even higher temp rating that id feel comfortable using.

Some electricians say it’s safe to be done and some that I’m just being cheap and I should buy the new baseboard. It’s not a money thing, I just don’t like throwing perfectly good stuff if I can help it.

I’m in Canada with harsh winter and the baseboards are our primary heating source, if it changes anything to your choice.

Hi All,

I'm in a South American country currently, so pricing, warranty and availability are not great when compared to Europe and the US.

That being said, I was looking at a Sanci SC-TY2622. Manufacturer Spec.

It's LiFePo4, 1792Wh, 2000W max , comes with a 29.2V/10A wall charger.

The downsides are that it's not a well known brand and that wall charging takes about 7-8 hours, based on the specs I've found. I also don't think that it has UPS or pass-through functionality.

Wondering if there's anything else I should be taking into account - i don't have much experience with electricity or power stations.

I'd be connecting my high end laptop that I use for many hours during heavy 3D work.

It's the same physics hiding in your phone charger. A transmitting coil creates an oscillating magnetic field, and a receiving coil sitting inside it turns that energy back into usable current.

Tune both to the same frequency and it gets better. Resonant coupling pushes power farther and more efficiently than standard inductive charging.

Radio waves and microwaves have carried power over even bigger distances. The catch is aiming the beam safely.

Where's this heading? EVs charging without a plug. Sensors powered in spots no wire can reach.

Eventually, devices with no wiring at all

Swipe for more photos

Hi there everyone. If this is not the right subreddit, please let me know which place is much suitable?

I have had this multiplug or whatever this is called (please let me know what is the specific name for this item) for months now. I bought this in an old minimart that happens to sell them surprisingly (2-3 were there when I was about to buy) in a country that only sell type g products only (boxy UK type) since it’s the default plug type here. I have noticed that this product has a 13A fuse in it since this is not the usual known range for type D plugs (I think it’s much lower if I remember). However I did use it on an all-in-one desktop (dell) monitor PC as a solution to a narrow occupied power strip (universal extension cord with narrow sockets that’s hard for wide UK type plugs to be plugged beside each other) which couldn’t fit my computer’s plug properly. So I plugged the product and over that I plugged the computer plug and it worked for weeks like a charm (atleast no issues) until we moved to a newer office.

So I would like to know your opinion and thought about this product and your verdicts. Thanks in advance

Anyone have experience with this retailer? Found them in a recent search and can't find many reviews. They offer in QLD NSW and they claim that below a monthly use threshold your bills will be 0...even with supply charge

https://www.highflowenergy.com.au/

I’m trying to find a portable charger to run this tiny projector off of but I’m not exactly good with this kinda thing. I’m just wondering if any of the stuff can tell you what can provide power to it efficiently. My goal is to have a projector on top of my head for a Halloween costume, so something that I can just tuck into my pocket and hide the wires in the back of my shirt, all while being able to move around and not be stuck to a wall.

My idea was a portable charger but it’s hard finding something that will reliably charge it, especially before I purchase it.

The current power is supplied through the DC5V port, which I have a cord for it with a usb end, that I just plug into my wall for now.

Anyways hopefully there’s a solution to make this more traversal. Thanks in advance!

Spotted on the outside patio space of a local restaurant.

I especially like the part where you can stick a knife into contact with the hot side of the line if getting a jolt via the GFCI isn't enough for you.

So I was wondering if I were to try to combine the components how powerful could I make it and how would I do so.

this was las night i dried them and again this morning but is it okay to plug into the wall outlet? and i already threw away my outlet strip also sorry i misspelled outlet with outline in title*

The writing in the wall says “then properly ground the circuit”

I was unable to properly record it because its so faint but loud enough to be annoying. It hasn't done this in over a year but its doing it again after gradually stopping. What is this?? Its a super faint sound here but its much louder irl trust me I can hear it in the back of my head.

If I could describe it, it sounds like a vibrating sound, not buzzing. Its just faint rattling. Ask me questions if they're needed T_T I'll try to provide an audio

I have a smart plug from tp link to monitor energy consumption of my PC the model is Tapo P115.

I would like to also protect my setup against power surges from lightning strikes, and this smart plug does not offer that protection. Could I just plug a power surge protector between the wall socket and my smart plug?

And by the way, how likely really is it that my PC or other electronics will break during a thunderstorm? Maybe I'm being too paranoid, I live in a big city as well, so I assume the electrical network is designed to be more robust against this? Thanks.

When I turn off the electricity in my house, my tension headache disappears. I mean the general switch from which all the power lines come. Someone explain to me how that works. The cables have isolation after all. I always feel on edge when electricity is in the house. But the main question is about the headaches. It was a high-pitched noise.

I have a conceptual question about reference directions and signs in circuit analysis.

I understand what a negative current or voltage means. If the calculated value is negative, the actual direction or polarity is opposite to the chosen reference direction or polarity. That is not what I am asking.

My question is more fundamental:

Why does choosing a reference direction allow current and voltage to be represented by positive and negative values in the first place?

For example, suppose a branch actually carries 5 A from left to right. If I choose left-to-right as the reference direction, I write:

i = +5 A

If I choose right-to-left as the reference direction, I write:

i = -5 A

Why is this relationship valid in the first place? Why does agreement with the reference direction correspond to a positive value, while opposition to the reference direction corresponds to a negative value?

I am not asking why we interpret a negative answer as meaning "opposite to the reference direction." I am asking why a physical quantity such as current can be represented by a signed scalar at all, and why reversing the reference direction corresponds specifically to multiplying the scalar by -1.

There is another part that I find especially interesting in AC circuits.

For example, we may write an AC current as:

i(t) = I_m cos(wt + phi)

But this expression seems to require a reference direction to be defined first. The reference direction remains fixed, while i(t) can become positive or negative as time changes.

Why is this necessary? Why can't we simply describe the physical current at each instant by its magnitude and actual direction without first choosing a reference direction?

I would like to understand the mathematical reason behind this, and how it connects to KCL, KVL, Ohm's law, and time-dependent/AC circuit analysis.

In the picture, I tried to explain where the positive and negative signs come from by starting with KCL, KVL, and Ohm's law. I realized that by simply substituting the current and voltage variables defined along the actual direction, I can derive both the equations for the reference direction and the relationship between the two sets of solutions.

Futures, contracts, etc. Is electricity accessible to retail traders or is it a game only for the large whales?

I heard a company is making these and renting them out for €75k a year. They make enough electricity for 30 houses a day and they are literally a shipping container and a kite lmao.

How much would a DIY version run?

If I added this type of bulb to the front of my garage. Keeping the light switch on 24/7.. would that pull electricity 24/7? Or only dusk till dawn?

Thank you in Advance!

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Thank You

I left my house a few hours ago for a stay of three days (return on Thursday). Only I don’t know anymore if I actually unplugged an electric mosquito-repellent diffuser.

Does this present any risk of electrical sparks or even the start of a fire? Or can it remain plugged in without presenting any danger?

Hello everyone,

I currently have a Square D QO 200A panel with 40 slots. During my basement renovation, I filled the panel, there's no more breaker left. I'm looking to upgrade the panel since I want to add solar capacity and also have more circuit for upstairs (currently all kitchen outlet are on the same 15a circuit, old house).

I looked online and found this

Schneider Electric Square D 200 Amp Main Breaker Only Plug-on Neutral Loadcentre with 60 S... | The Home Depot Canada

Is that a good replacement? It would add 20 slots which should be well enough. Unless I'm wrong, it's the same type of panel so I can keep my current breaker.

Photo showing my current panel.

Yes, I will hire an electrician. While I can safely work on a panel, I refuse to play with live power. I always turn off the main breaker when doing so and since here, it will be touching the main directly, I'm not doing that.

Reason I'm asking if the panel I'm looking at is good is because electrician here tend to push heavy on the pencil. I want to quote multiple electrician seeing the price with and without a panel in the quote and see how much they charge for a panel.

Thank you

edit: Forgot to say, I'm in Quebec so it's a 240V 2 phase panel. Current connection is back fed (which I hate, might look at changing that with electrician but would require more work outside and closing the new hole).

edit 2: Just found out that panel doesn't accept neutral pigtail from GFCI and CAFCI breaker, which all my basement use... Which mean replacing all the new breaker I just installed. This will cost a lot at about 100$/breaker. So I guess I must find something else

This black lion audio pg2r that I use in my studio has a constant voltage reading even while powered off, so I have been noticing the fluctuations regarding voltage in my home. I live in a basement apartment.

Earlier this week it dropped as low as 96V.

What steps should I be taking to address this?

I called the utility company and they basically told me there were 40000 homes without power and they can’t help.

Asked my landlord to bring in an electrician due to potential fire hazard and she never got back to me about what they said.

I feel like this is not normal so I’m just curious to see what your opinions are. Thanks.