I got some attention on the port on the last post so I took it out and did some research. This should sound awesome!!!

I recently got my first sub, a Sundown sa-8 v.3 d2, and I don't wanna blow it.

my friend bought this very cheap k2 copy and he wanted me to test and measure it. very bright from 5khz-16khz with THD less than 1%. (measured nearfield with jbox iii, umik1 and REW) basically no distortion 5khz and above.

note: I did not add any crossover on the measurement, only 1khz-20khz sweep on REW.

tweeter price around 25usd

Had this thought the other day. We could be sending all these channels down a single fiber optic cable, with 0 interference. Yet all aftermarket stereos and amps continue to use arguably the worst standard for the electrically noisy environment in a car: RCA.

Anyway, this idea is now in the public domain, so nobody can patent it.

I'm tackling my first REAL project with my Creality k2 Plus and would like some insight on printing enclosures.

What are the better filaments to use for this? Need something that won't warp from sun exposure, heat, and something that isn't gonna crack under the pressure. What about wall thicknesses and infill? Any tips/tricks you can share?

I also have questions regarding speaker number, type, and size differences in the same enclosure. Will having a Sundown Audio Neo Pro 6.5" midrange alongside a Sundown Audio U Series 6.5" in the same enclosure cause any issues? Obviously the U series is a subwoofer, so I'm wondering if I should wall them off so that they're in their own separate spaces.

Would also throwing a super tweeter or 3" high range speaker in that enclosure require being separated? I'm assuming I can run that and the Neo Pro in the same space so long as I wall off the U series.

Plan is to run....

a single Neo Pro 6.5", a single U Series 6.5", and a SA-3M 3" in each front door.

A single U Series 6.5" and a SA-3M 3" in each rear door.

I'm open to suggestions and criticism. I may swap out the Neo Pro 6.5" for the SA-6.5M 6.5" for the fronts and run a single SA-8M 8" in each rear door.

Recently, I upgraded the speakers in my 22 F350 because the factory ones were just meh. I didn't put any super high end speakers in but all doors and tweeters were replaced. The difference in sound is night and day. But, there is still something missing. I went to my local audio shop, where i bought the speakers, and he suggested a DSP. He showed me one that he had in stock which is the Alpine PXE-0850X. I've never considered myself an audiophile but I feel like I'm trending that way after watching some videos on DSPs in general. Is the Alpine that I mentioned a good model? The price he gave me was approx 40% off of what I have seen them being sold for online. I may or may not continue down this rabbit hole in the future in the form of adding subs and possibly upgrading speakers again if I feel it's necessary. Will this particular model be beneficial if I decide to add more down the road? I have the basic Ford audio system with the now upgraded speakers. I know the speakers can handle more power than what my factory head unit is putting out. Would I benefit from an amp in addition to the DSP?

Hello, All! I am rebuilding an ebay sourced 10w7 and i have 2 questions. It was poorly rebuilt by a previous owner and the voice coil rubbed on the motor, making a rattle as it played. This is my first ever subwoofer rebuild.

First question(s) is, What are some tips and tricks you have learned while repairing electronics that you wish you knew before you started soldering? I need to solder the terminal leads to the new voice coil and ive never soldered anything before. What is the best solder to use for a w7? Voice coil was sourced from Underrated Audio Repair on ebay.

Second question is, what is the best way to go about removing the glue and remaining spider from the basket? I have tried a cut off disk and a flap disk on my dremel, and while they do kinda work, they take forever. Im hoping there is a more efficient and expeditious method.

What’s the best way for me to add Bluetooth to this head unit. This is my 1996 na mx5 and I’m really trying to keep the old head unit bc I think it looks sick. I’ve looked for a Bluetooth module that plugs into the cd port but I swr it doesn’t exist.

I’m trying to avoid an fm transmitter bc it’s jank.
If anyone’s done anything like this or knows how to better the sound quality please help me out 🙏

Had a coworker that got a Miata NB that had a system installed a wanted to clean up his trunk and upgrade the amp. Figured I’d share here.

Forgot to take a before picture but the Hifonics amp was just laying in the corner of the spare tire well when he got the car. He installed the sound deadening before I started the cleanup/install.

Made a panel for spare tire well so we could mount his new Audio Control Epic Five and then installed the carpet kit and the trunk trim panels. He doesn’t plan on using the trunk and just wanted a simple low cost install so this is what I came up with.

He’s happy and it sounds way better, obviously better than the Hifonics amp. I didn’t bother with pictures of the speaker setup but the amp is powering a pair of coaxials in the doors and 2 more coaxials and 2 Orion XTR 8’s in a box on the rear parcel self.

I've heard Bose (mazda 3 turbo hatch, Kia k5 GT) "premium," the HK in BMW (x3 and m850i gran coupe), both are not too bad imo, sounds ok to me. But the Bang & Olufsen in Audi (tried both Q5 and rs etron GT) just sounds "harsh" in comparison especially in alto and treble....

is it just me?

Hola buenas tardes !! Tengo esta pantalla instalada en mi auto !! Pero no reconoce el CarPlay .. ni el puerto 1 ni el rojo de frente, abra algún tipo de actualización ? O de plano vuelvo al estéreo original , lo conecto a un iPhone 17 .. algo tiene que ver ?
Saludos

So im got my new 10 in and i noticed somewhere right away, my new sub is like really stiff. My old stub is pretty loose, at least compared to the new one.

Is this gonna cause a problem when i get them paired together in the same box (the box is per spec)? My old ev4 10 is at least a couple years old i can imagine.

Even on this one the surround is nice and sparkly while the older one doesn't even have sparkle (doesn't matter just found that interesting).

This fuse is labeled RR PWR Socket. There is no such socket so will it be possible to power a small sub from this circuit? I know it is not recommended but in this case there will be nothing else on the same circuit and the subs also have 15A fuses.

The car is a J10 Qashqai and possible subs are JBL Bass Pro Nano and the Ground Zero GZCS SW-800A.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice on upgrading the audio in my F-150 and figured this would be a good place to get opinions from people who have worked on these trucks.

Here’s what I’m working with:

• Truck: 2021 F-150 Lariat Powerboost
• Factory system: B&O Eight Speaker System
• Installation: DIY
• Main complaint: B&O Amp dead after Over-the-Air update and out of warranty. Ford repair costs are north of $1500+. Only the tweeters work currently, and it sounds like a 1930's AM radio.

Need to keep Sync in place. Ideally, I am looking maintain or have slight better audio that won't break the bank.

For those who have upgraded an F-150:

• What made the biggest improvement?
• Do I need to upgrade speakers with an amp/DSP replacement?
• Any specific equipment or integration solutions you recommend?
• Anything you bought that you’d skip if doing it again?

If you have a similar truck or install, I’d appreciate hearing what you installed, roughly what it cost, and how happy you are with it.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to add an underseat sub to my 2014 Hyundai i30. Budget is roughly £300. Keeping my boot space clear is a non-negotiable, so it absolutely has to be an underseat unit.

I've upgraded my head unit so I have dedicated RCA subwoofer outputs, so I'll be running a low-level RCA signal to this Sub.

I'm not expecting chest-rattling bass from a underseat subwoofer but I just want the absolute closest I can possibly get to this.

Between the SL2 and the Nano, which one would be best?

Are there any other options under or around £300 that outperform the JBLs?

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to install an active subwoofer in my new C-Class (W206) and need to tap into the frontbass in the passenger footwell.

To get to the speaker and carpet, I need to remove the lower trim panel under the glovebox. I already pulled the two push-pins at the front edge. The right side drops down about 1–2 inches easily, but the far-left side right against the center console is completely stuck and won't budge at all.

Is there a hidden Torx screw (T20?) tucked into the corner against the tunnel, or is it strictly a sliding tab that jams when the panel tilts? Which direction does it release (straight back toward the rear seat or sideways)?

It's a brand-new car, so I really want to avoid snapping any plastic tabs. Any advice from someone who tapped the frontbass or pulled this panel off would be nice!

Thanks!

Fellas I need some recommendations for coax 6x9 and 6.5's. Something that isn't a super edgy harsh sound. More detail the better and I'm mainly focused on nice vocals and mid-range notes like the guitar notes shining through in metalcore songs rather than being a static guitar noise, or warm but powerful vocals. Not to concerned with low-end as I do have a sub. I listen to lots of different genres/styles of music but something that would accel in like bluegrass and warm sounding songs but also not distort when listening to metal or rap/hip-hop. I am looking to run an amp on the door speakers I just want to know what speakers I'm getting so I can get an amp with the right amount of wattage. Trying to stay in the 300 dollar range but could bend a little. Also no DSP-not enough moneys:(

Thanks!

I bought a custom fit box for my Jeep. Gladiator from his car came with two Skar Audio VS-12 D4 12-inch subwoofers. Blew them out so the company sent me some new ones but did not include any screws to secure it to the box. The box has metal pieces for the screws to go in but I can’t seem to find the right ones. Does anyone know which hardware works?

Im relatively new too car audio well you can tell that by the title but I ordered two resilient sounds gold v1 10s and I plan on going balls to the walls and putting them in my extended cab sonoma my question is I just got into it and my truck got a brand new alternator like a month ago is there a way around a "high output alternator" ?

I’ve been looking at getting a battery for my sound system but everywhere I look it’s all mixed signals I plan on running around 6-7k watts on a 24 Silverado, I’m new to all car audio stuff

Iv been looking into this one and it seems like a good deal, it lists 1.75 CUBIC FT AIRSPACE, 6.5" MOUNTING DEPTH, 2.25" EXCURSION TRAVEL would that pair well if I was doing a 3 way front stage or is 2 subs preferred?

I already tried the place custom speaker pods . Com they couldn’t help me they don’t have my car and none of the universal pods would fit.

I need a midrange pod for my a pillar. willing to pay more to get it made specifically for my car too.

real subs from the database, you build the ported box and hold the burp, let go before the coil cooks or the cone slaps itself apart.

First of all im sorry for this long post but thought id include as much info as possible to get best results.

Ok I will admit I got the car about 6 month ago and almost immediately got an aftermarket subwoofer placed in the boot of the car. The make and model if relevant is a golf r line tdi 2019 (mk 7.5). Ive had zero audio issues until a few days ago….

When driving to my partners house I had a prompt on dash stating ‘checked dip headlight beam’ both were on so thought nothing of it, however it only took me a few mins driving to notice I had zero sound coming from the back rear speakers (set fader to the front speakers and was able to hear some audio but very quiet. After the engine was turned off over night i hopped in, started engine and walla heard what i thought was sound from every speaker again.

It was only when i started driving home after a weekend I noticed theres still a massive audio decrease, all speakers including tweeters play sound no problem however sound is very subdued as if something had blown, the deep sound from low end mid and top end audio has massively deteriorated. For example the audio at around 20/25% was the perfect level and very loud previously, i can now turn it right up to 80+ volume and while fairly loud has no clarity and when my ears pressed against each door speaker i hear a less punchy clear sound.

For the subwoofer install I used a vibe LOC converter and spliced signal from rear speakers where they connect to behind the glovebox wiring loom/plug. This has all been fine for 5 month untl now.

Things ive done are hard reset the infortainment, ensured all connections are still connected where quick connects and splices are. The subwoofer did have a light on and played sound but now doesnt after I went into the glovebox to check wiring so ive possibly made matters worse now. So plan on checking the ground tomorrow and also changing the fuse located near battery and on the sub itself to rule this out.

In terms of troubleshooting, where would I go next, get a voltmeter and physically test each speaker? Purchase a new LOC converter and do the full re wire again to rule the LOC being an issue? Would a poor ground on sub or a break in connection cause a subdued sound on the surrounding factory fitted speakers due to being spliced. If all fails ill see a car audio specialist to help me through but i genuinely have a passion for audio though my car audio knowledge is limited (followed youtube guide on taking subwoofer from rear speakers to LOC converter. My next point ill do on my own is getting sub back on which may be ground etc havent checked that as it was dark and is grounded to under seat bolt to chassis of car, paint sanded off…

So started off wth rear speakers with zero audio, now all speakers have audio but lack lustre sound to a couple weeks back. And now the sub doesnt even have a power light thought this is only since i went back into the glovebox audio compartment behind cd player. If anyone can just give me steps or request more info on what you need to help matters feel free and thank you in advance

I havent been in an accident or took a knock to cause this, just happened over night.