I’m looking for a fabric that matches my cabin before I upholster and hook up my dsp

Was wondering if these settings are okay for this type of music (corridos with drums and a bass guitar). I currently have these settings on my EQ, it was previously higher with the guy at the audioshop putting the loudness at max and the sub level at +10. I lowered it to +1 and turned loudness off. I left the Crossover how he left it since its okay i guess. I got a new Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX, after two previous units have fucked up. I had a cheap audioplanet, then upgraded to a JVC which was supposed to be better. Turns out according to the audio shop that it had Chinese wiring and was a defective model. Any suggestions or tuning recommendations? (on my Sub amp i have a Phoenix Gold and a Audiobahn Sub).

Wrapping up an install and need some help landing the plane. Shoot me a chat.

So recently I was give a box that goes under the back seat of my truck for those curious they go under the e back seat of a 2014 f150 extended cab and the subs face down towards the floor but I’ve been looking around at just cheap subs for the moment then going better when I have more to spend I’m looking at getting these 10’s but idk much about the brand currently the box has 2 subs but one is blown the subs that are in it are ford foster should I just get another ford foster so I only have to buy 1 subs or should I just replace both?

I recently got my first sub, a Sundown sa-8 v.3 d2, and I don't wanna blow it.

I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan with a navigation system unit which I plan to replace with a more modern CarPlay system/unit. Do y’all know where I can start looking? PS: this is a reference photo.

My amp does 800 into 4, 1.5kw into 2, 2.2kw into 1.

Swapped my 4 ohm sub to a D4 so 2 ohm on the amp. Problem starts here. When I've set the gain on the previous sub using a -3db tone at 400w rms then music was regularly RMS in the 700s. But now even if i set the gain to 750w rms at a -5db tone the same songs get only around 600w worth of voltage output..... even worse when i set it to 750w rms on -3db tone. Then i get approx 400w worth of voltage in music. Monitored with oscope

I have to reconnect a butt splice for my steering wheel controller, but the original installer left almost no wire length, and it’s tight reach into the cavity. Ideas?

Hello, hope everyone is well.

I want to upgrade my car speakers in my 2019 civic si ( comes with a 10 speaker sound system )

I wanted to replace the front door and tweeters with Kicker 46CSS654 CS-Series 6.5" Component Speakers.

And add a powered sub Pioneer TS-WX1210AH sub in my trunk. I will also add a bit of sound deadening in my door cards.

Simply, for th experienced in here, are these products of good quality? If you guys have any better recommendations that dont cost an arm and a leg i am open.

Want to preferably keep stock headunit and amp.

Thank you

I have a 2016 Chevy Malibu 1.5L turbo and I’m upgrading my car audio power wiring.
I recently purchased 25 feet of KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 1/0 AWG OFC cable to replace my existing power wire. The cable is advertised as having a maximum current rating of 375A.
My current setup has a 500A ANL inline fuse, which previously supported a much larger audio system. I’m now running a SoundQubed amplifier for my front speakers and adding a Taramps 800x4 for my DS18 speakers. I also have a Brand X 270A high output alternator that I’ll be installing.
My main power cable runs directly from the alternator, through an inline ANL fuse, to a distribution block in the trunk.
I’m trying to determine the correct fuse size for the new OFC cable. I’ve been considering 250A or 300A, but I want to make sure I’m protecting the wiring properly without unnecessarily restricting the system.
Would you recommend a 250A or 300A ANL fuse for this setup? Also, with the high output alternator, should I be upgrading any additional charging or grounding cables?
Appreciate any advice from people running similar setups.

Thanks.

I am installing a wolfbox in my hatchback and the camera briefly reboots whenever the engine restarts at a traffic light. I suspect I chose a poor circuit for the hardwire kit rather than having a bad camera. Before I move the fuse tap again, what should I check for constant and accessory power on a vehicle with auto stop-start, and are there circuits that should always be avoided?

So i posted about this a few days ago got like 2500 views awsome! Thank you! Goo all the way to bottom of you dont want to read my bs long story lol...

I was so mad a at this little cheap amp and still sort of am but im realizing now. These things aint built like they used to be... in my teens id throw a 1800 watt amp maybe another 400 watt amp on top for some cheap mids and watch the lights dance.

Buttt these new electronics dont do that they have built in microprocessors that will turn off the amp or what ever before the lights blink. And ykw thats actually awsome bc im on my second battery in 6 months and i havent burned my vehicle to the ground yet. We also wernt trying to run 1 ohm loads on stock systems or care about haveing to replace a battery every 3 days butttt where older now..

I cant afford to or want to replace a premium battery every few months... anyway getting off subject but i have bills now so no i still dont want to have to replace a battery every few months or go into crazy mad science dual alternators and battery stuff and i deff dont want to deal with un reliable sound either... soo what do i do?

I bought these bad ass little 8 inch 1000 watt rms 2000 watt max resilant sounds subs a box and an amp for 300 bucks. Not realizing how much of a unit i had bought i threw in some 4 gauge wired it up and ran it. And then 3 months later battery dead. And the whole time amp cutting off. Surely the truck has a draw and the amp is a pos right.... nope its not the same the same amp im used to would knock until the truck shuts off not this one lol again off topic omg cant lie mightve had some beers while messing with this thing.

Long story short i wired the subs wich are dual 4+4 subs have no idea what that meant at the time and wired them the way the music guy/ instructions it came with told me to not knowing it was a competition speaker that will suck the life out of any stock system with one base hit..soo my theroy is after some research that im not sure if can i wire them down to 4 ohms and maybe not experience such a draw thats my main question will this 1 ohm amp work with more restriction im gonna try this weekend regardless but i might have to just sell these crazy things and put in some cheap 12s idk yet

The system will run off of the oem head unit so as not to lose any features that come with the car. I bought a wire harness from Crutchfield to get the front signal wires to work with, since I'm building a front stage SQ system. Listening to the front and rear speakers using the fader, it's clear that the bass signal is also more louder in the front speakers, so I used it to connect to the LC2i. I have the Dayton Audio 408 DSP and the Epicenter Micro.

I've heard Bose (mazda 3 turbo hatch, Kia k5 GT) "premium," the HK in BMW (x3 and m850i gran coupe), both are not too bad imo, sounds ok to me. But the Bang & Olufsen in Audi (tried both Q5 and rs etron GT) just sounds "harsh" in comparison especially in alto and treble....

is it just me?

Recently, I upgraded the speakers in my 22 F350 because the factory ones were just meh. I didn't put any super high end speakers in but all doors and tweeters were replaced. The difference in sound is night and day. But, there is still something missing. I went to my local audio shop, where i bought the speakers, and he suggested a DSP. He showed me one that he had in stock which is the Alpine PXE-0850X. I've never considered myself an audiophile but I feel like I'm trending that way after watching some videos on DSPs in general. Is the Alpine that I mentioned a good model? The price he gave me was approx 40% off of what I have seen them being sold for online. I may or may not continue down this rabbit hole in the future in the form of adding subs and possibly upgrading speakers again if I feel it's necessary. Will this particular model be beneficial if I decide to add more down the road? I have the basic Ford audio system with the now upgraded speakers. I know the speakers can handle more power than what my factory head unit is putting out. Would I benefit from an amp in addition to the DSP?

So im got my new 10 in and i noticed somewhere right away, my new sub is like really stiff. My old stub is pretty loose, at least compared to the new one.

Is this gonna cause a problem when i get them paired together in the same box (the box is per spec)? My old ev4 10 is at least a couple years old i can imagine.

Even on this one the surround is nice and sparkly while the older one doesn't even have sparkle (doesn't matter just found that interesting).

my friend bought this very cheap k2 copy and he wanted me to test and measure it. very bright from 5khz-16khz with THD less than 1%. (measured nearfield with jbox iii, umik1 and REW) basically no distortion 5khz and above.

note: I did not add any crossover on the measurement, only 1khz-20khz sweep on REW.

tweeter price around 25usd

Doing all new runs of speaker wire and RCAs. Definitely needed to address the road noise coming into the cabin. It’s bad. Doing a deep clean obviously, CDL sheets as needed. I have a bunch of CCF 1/8” thick to go on top of that and a 100sqin roll of 1 l/b MLV . Really hoping to notice a difference !!

was sold this amp by a crackhead. it was cheap because unbeknownst to me he had dropped it on the terminal blocks and cracked the board. previously, I reflowed the traces and it worked for a while but still is very fragile. it broke again months later so now he's my permanent fix. this works perfectly!

I got some attention on the port on the last post so I took it out and did some research. This should sound awesome!!!

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to add an underseat sub to my 2014 Hyundai i30. Budget is roughly £300. Keeping my boot space clear is a non-negotiable, so it absolutely has to be an underseat unit.

I've upgraded my head unit so I have dedicated RCA subwoofer outputs, so I'll be running a low-level RCA signal to this Sub.

I'm not expecting chest-rattling bass from a underseat subwoofer but I just want the absolute closest I can possibly get to this.

Between the SL2 and the Nano, which one would be best?

Are there any other options under or around £300 that outperform the JBLs?

Thanks in advance!

This fuse is labeled RR PWR Socket. There is no such socket so will it be possible to power a small sub from this circuit? I know it is not recommended but in this case there will be nothing else on the same circuit and the subs also have 15A fuses.

The car is a J10 Qashqai and possible subs are JBL Bass Pro Nano and the Ground Zero GZCS SW-800A.

I recently got a new car and I'd really like to add some extra bass. However, the dealership advised me against installing a traditional subwoofer because of potential warranty issues...

Has anyone been in a similar situation? Are there any decent alternatives that don't require messing with the car's wiring or electrical system?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

I'm tackling my first REAL project with my Creality k2 Plus and would like some insight on printing enclosures.

What are the better filaments to use for this? Need something that won't warp from sun exposure, heat, and something that isn't gonna crack under the pressure. What about wall thicknesses and infill? Any tips/tricks you can share?

I also have questions regarding speaker number, type, and size differences in the same enclosure. Will having a Sundown Audio Neo Pro 6.5" midrange alongside a Sundown Audio U Series 6.5" in the same enclosure cause any issues? Obviously the U series is a subwoofer, so I'm wondering if I should wall them off so that they're in their own separate spaces.

Would also throwing a super tweeter or 3" high range speaker in that enclosure require being separated? I'm assuming I can run that and the Neo Pro in the same space so long as I wall off the U series.

Plan is to run....

a single Neo Pro 6.5", a single U Series 6.5", and a SA-3M 3" in each front door.

A single U Series 6.5" and a SA-3M 3" in each rear door.

I'm open to suggestions and criticism. I may swap out the Neo Pro 6.5" for the SA-6.5M 6.5" for the fronts and run a single SA-8M 8" in each rear door.