Just got myself an F10 with N52 (132k miles/215k km) recently and was really let down of the legendary ZF8.

To begin with, almost every time I engage from P to D or R, the whole car jerks and there's also some distinct clunk sound.

Then when I accelerate from standstill, the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are the furthest from what I would call smooth. Even my ZF6 in E60 525d and at 400k km mileage shifts more smoothly.

But the worst are 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts when stopping. So noticeable and so bad. Again, my old ZF6 is leaps and bounds ahead in low speed downshifts.

Surprisingly, upshifts and downshifts from 3-8 and 8-3 are decent and actually can't complain. It's mostly low speeds and low gears where the the shifts become shitty.

These issues are mostly present when the engine is cold and somewhat subside when the engine really warms up. Somewhat but definitely not completely.

Btw, not sure if worth mentioning but overall shifting speed is really quick, No hesitation or confusion from the gearbox. Just rough shifts at low speeds up to 40 km/h and especially when cold.

I'm also attaching a glimpse of what diagnostics showed today during driving. Maybe some of you might be able to pinpoint the problem.

Regarding transmission fluid, I don't have data or proof that it was ever changed. And don't know the current level and state of the fluid. I mean do my symptoms even remotely line up with old, bad or low level fluid?

Not sure why I didn’t notice this till now but one of the angel eyes on the passenger side turned yellow in my 2018 M240i haven’t taken it to a mechanic just yet but was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences and what they did after that? I’ve heard it could just be the DRL module needing to be replaced but not completely sure.

So i've had this car for about 3 years now, oil change every 4k km (might be a little longer for this most recent upcoming change), and I happened to notice smoke coming out of my engine while stopping at a light. I thought it was something minor so I let it pass and now I noticed it happened again and it smelt like burnt oil. I will be booking an appointment to get this checked out but I was wondering if this is a big problem. Am I going to be fucked? Attached are some images below for where the leak is.

Around less than a year ago I was in an accident involving my 2018 540i XDrive. The vehicle was totaled out, and as of now i'm back in the market for a new BMW.
Going into the market I do know I wanted something faster than the 540i as well as just a slight more edge to the technology.
Recently Ive been looking a lot at the M850i years
2020-2022
I have a rough budget of 45-50k and was looking at getting myself into an M850i with around 50-60k miles.
I know the older N63 generations have not been the greatest engine but I have heard that with proper and early preventative maintenance the newer N63's aren't as troublesome if at all.

Hi all,

I need some help, I have looked for this little part everywhere and I cant find what it is. If you know, would you mind telling me?

2026 BMW X3 20

Thank you!

Hi all,

Thanks in advance. Bought in 2012 - I have a 2009 335i convertible E93 with adaptive headlights. I’ve never had any codes with the headlights but I did notice the wiring insulation falling off inside the headlight. I sent the headlights for service to have the harnesses replaced (there are now replacement harnesses available) and to replace the lens.

I plugged them in and I received these two errors. I cleared them from the frm but they still appear.
009CC1 FRM stepping motor SMC left
009CC2 FRM stepping motor SMC right

I ran the component triggering for adaptive headlights in ISTA and the headlights move, so I’m unsure of why stepper motor codes

One thing I haven’t tried is NCS expert to recode the modules. They are the originals and had no issues prior to service.

Sorry for the dusty laptop screen pics, it’s really sunny here. Also sharing the front end. Looks so nice.

Yesterday I was driving my car, then got a knock sensor code, with limp mode. I heard slight hitting when at higher rpms, so i decided to just drive it like normal, and not go high rpm. Then today i was driving and it felt very rough, like it was about to stall. I was sitting at a red light and it did stall, the car turned off. And continued to do this, so i had to hold the gas so it wouldn’t. Then I checked the codes again and got many more. This was after i had cleared the knock sensor code. What could the problems be? Did the knock sensor cause off of these codes? If anyone has any ideas of the issue could I get some tips?

Also could the whining noise be related?

Hello, i have a bmw 630i n52b30, how can I keep track of whether I have enough oil in my car? I had the oil changed and only put in 6 liters, and the navigation showed that the oil level was at MAX. I’m worried that I might need to add more. I should also mention that I have a small oil leak around the oil pan, but it’s not a major one.
I'm worried, the sensor who meassure the oil level can be broken?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2020 BMW 330e G20, and my rear left door suddenly stopped opening from both inside and outside.

The central locking seems to work fine, and the lock pin goes up and down normally, but the door simply won’t open.

I’ve already purchased a replacement door lock actuator (OEM [51227445053](tel:51227445053)) and plan to install it myself.

However, I’m a bit worried about removing the black plastic panel inside the door, as I’m not sure whether it’s supporting the window mechanism. I’m concerned that removing it might cause the window to drop or damage something.

Has anyone replaced the rear door lock actuator on a G20, particularly with the door stuck shut?

Do I need to secure or remove the window before taking off the black panel? Is there anything I should be careful about?

Any advice, pictures, or videos would be massively appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

You'll need to REALLY listen carefully, and apologies for the parking sensor beeps.

You can just about make out the 2 creaks coming from the front end, one weird sound when coming to a stop, second when I'm completely idle. The noise seems to disappear after having driven it for a short while.

I was told it was the front lower suspension arm, which I've changed and annoyingly the noise is still there!.

It's most noticeable when I'm on/off the breaks in short spells, like queuing at a drivethru...

I'm beginning to think it way be the brakes rather than suspension components?

Any help appreciated.

Hey everyone, I could really use some help diagnosing my 2016 BMW 228i Convertible (F23, automatic, approximately 77,300 miles).

Here’s what happened:

Yesterday I was stopped at a red light with my foot on the brake, seat belt fastened, and driver’s door closed. When the light turned green, I pressed the accelerator, but the engine just revved without the car moving.

I noticed the transmission had switched into Park automatically without me selecting it. I put it back into Drive, got a transmission malfunction warning, and drove about 0.2 miles to park safely. I ran bimmerlink to see what’s wrong and there were no fault codes but it said that a lot of my systems were undervolted.
After restarting the car, the warning disappeared. The transmission shifted normally afterward, including in Sport mode using the paddle shifters to test.

I drove to the closest O’Reillys and bought a brand new battery

The original BMW AGM battery was approximately 10 years old. I replaced it with a brand-new Super Start Platinum AGM Group 49/H8 (95Ah, 900 CCA) from O’Reilly.
I registered the replacement using BimmerLink. The car is coded for a 90Ah AGM battery.
However, immediately after installing the new battery, the car wouldn’t start until someone helped jump-start it.
Afterward, I drove to McDonald’s, turned the car completely off, ate inside, and restarted it successfully without a jump.
Later that evening, the car refused to start again.
Current symptoms:
“Battery discharged. Start engine” warning
“Increased battery discharge” warning
Occasional “Starter/ignition” warning
Clicking/buzzing when attempting to start
Sometimes the engine cranks normally, sometimes it won’t crank at all
Dashboard lights and electronics still work
Car occasionally starts normally after sitting
Chassis stabilization warning appeared
Clock/date settings were reset
After sitting another 6–7 hours, the car still had intermittent starting problems.
Relevant BimmerLink codes:
420571 – EGS power supply below 6.5V
213A21 – On-board power supply voltage too low
802690 – Gear selector release button stuck
802696 – Gear selector undervoltage
There are multiple additional undervoltage codes across other modules.
I haven’t cleared the fault memory or reset transmission adaptations.
BimmerLink previously reported 97% battery charge, but I haven’t measured actual voltage or had the new battery load-tested.
The battery terminals have anti-corrosion grease applied by the O’Reilly employee who helped install the battery. The connections look secure, but I haven’t verified them electrically.
My questions:
Could a faulty engine ground strap, loose battery connection, or IBS issue cause all these symptoms?
Could the voltage problems explain the unexpected Park engagement at the red light?
Should I investigate the starter/solenoid or battery connections first?
Has anyone experienced something similar after replacing and registering a BMW AGM battery?
What tests would you recommend before I start replacing more parts?
The car is currently parked. I’m trying to avoid throwing money at random parts without properly diagnosing it.
Any advice from BMW owners or technicians would be appreciated. Thank you so much I would really appreciate the help :)

​

A friend means he would Change my Injectors, I rather ask bc it's a bit expensive.

The Car has 280tsd Kilometres and the chain was changed at about 200tsd

Hey guys, my car seems to be drinking coolant. I’ve topped it up 3 times in the last week with coolant and it just disappears. The car isn’t overheating but my heating/climate control doesn’t seem to be working which I know is coolant related. From what I could tell online a common issue with my model of car isn’t the EGR developing cracks and dripping coolant onto the exhaust which evaporates instantly (this is the best explanation I could find because the coolant isn’t pooling underneath my car onto the ground). There is no recall out for my car that I could find. I’ve been told to stop driving it but it’s my only mode of transport and I need it for work. I bought the car off of a Japanese import dealership in Ireland 3 months ago with 90k kilometers on it. I’ve been driving it since and this is the first issue that has come up. What is going on? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

This is my tensioner correct? Does it just need tightening and see some oil pooling

Can anybody help my identify the part making it rattle and how to sort it?

currently in process of ‘up badging’ does anyone know the screws i need for the air ducts ? the bar it attaches to doesn’t have thread for a screw , would it be some sort of pop rivet? also do i need to remove the crash bar? also if you have any tips or advice dm me thanks

I just bought a used 2019 X3 G01, and the lane departure warning will not vibrate the steering wheel. It does show the green lane recognition icon, and I was able to activate the steering wheel vibration using ISTA+. In the settings, Steering Wheel Vibration is set for Medium and Lane Departure Warn is set to Always. What should I check next? I have ESYS and ISTA+ working if I need to check anything.

Perhaps related, the rain sensing wipers were not working when I got the car, but recalibrating the rain sensor in ISTA+ got them working, though not sure yet how well. The windshield is aftermarket. Thanks!

This morning got a low coolant warning, it was way past the min line. I know my oil housing gasket leaks oil, could my coolant be leaking from the same spot? I watched some replacement videos I feel like I can do it myself as I’ve done some other work on my car. Novice DIY mechanic lol. Any idea if this could be the culprit of where my coolant went? 2012 BMW 528i RWD N20

Hello,When the car is heated and i start it sounds like this
Is normal?

These are the codes i currently have 165015 I had prior to the timing job pretty sure thats a separate error will get to that when I can as it ran fine with that code active before.

I had to replace my vanos gears and retime the motor as my exhaust one decided it didnt want to live anymore.

Upon starting the motor now the idle is very rough like it goes fine half way through the cycle and then rpms jump to the exact point it does every single time and the cycle continues.

There is also a super loud wining noise thats present on throttle so i think it could potentially be a vacuum leak but im not sure why I’d get the 131501 code.

Additionally When you first start the car it will start and then shut off im assuming something goes wrong and gets thrown into fail safe. Then on the second start it stays on but idles rough, thrn the car throws a drivetrain malfunction but doesn’t shut off/stall. Any input is greatly appreciated. Will link a video soon

Hi All,

Anyone have success using Max Sensor (Tire Pressure) on their rigs for winter tire setup? If so, any DIY tips or should I just find a backyard mechanic with programming tool?

TIA!

Hello BMW Tech gurus, can i get ur advice on what could be the cause of the rattling/wobbling sound? Could it be the belt tensioner bearing?

Is it risky to continue driving? Thank youuu

PS Yes ik my coolant leak is bad haha

I was hit at a stoplight causing minor damage to the front and rear of my 2019 330iXDrive. Safety and restraint system messages immediately appeared on my vehicle display. Repair shop did not properly repair. After returning the car to the repair shop (State Farm recommended) the repair shop sent the car to the local BMW dealer to diagnose.

Diagnosis: "Power steering torque sensor faulty in EPS".

Problem: Insurance company says it was pre-accident. BMW says the date/mileage info is no longer available after the faults are downloaded. Dealer cannot find hard copy of original report.

What do I do? Insurance company and repair shop are zero help.

How to unscrew these?😅