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A friend means he would Change my Injectors, I rather ask bc it's a bit expensive.

The Car has 280tsd Kilometres and the chain was changed at about 200tsd

Hello, I need to find that orange rubber gasket for the maf sensor because I lost mine while replacing the intake. Any ideas where I can find a replacement? The actual maf sensor part # is 0280218324 I just need the gasket though.

Around less than a year ago I was in an accident involving my 2018 540i XDrive. The vehicle was totaled out, and as of now i'm back in the market for a new BMW.
Going into the market I do know I wanted something faster than the 540i as well as just a slight more edge to the technology.
Recently Ive been looking a lot at the M850i years
2020-2022
I have a rough budget of 45-50k and was looking at getting myself into an M850i with around 50-60k miles.
I know the older N63 generations have not been the greatest engine but I have heard that with proper and early preventative maintenance the newer N63's aren't as troublesome if at all.

This is my tensioner correct? Does it just need tightening and see some oil pooling

Hey everyone, I could really use some help diagnosing my 2016 BMW 228i Convertible (F23, automatic, approximately 77,300 miles).

Here’s what happened:

Yesterday I was stopped at a red light with my foot on the brake, seat belt fastened, and driver’s door closed. When the light turned green, I pressed the accelerator, but the engine just revved without the car moving.

I noticed the transmission had switched into Park automatically without me selecting it. I put it back into Drive, got a transmission malfunction warning, and drove about 0.2 miles to park safely. I ran bimmerlink to see what’s wrong and there were no fault codes but it said that a lot of my systems were undervolted.
After restarting the car, the warning disappeared. The transmission shifted normally afterward, including in Sport mode using the paddle shifters to test.

I drove to the closest O’Reillys and bought a brand new battery

The original BMW AGM battery was approximately 10 years old. I replaced it with a brand-new Super Start Platinum AGM Group 49/H8 (95Ah, 900 CCA) from O’Reilly.
I registered the replacement using BimmerLink. The car is coded for a 90Ah AGM battery.
However, immediately after installing the new battery, the car wouldn’t start until someone helped jump-start it.
Afterward, I drove to McDonald’s, turned the car completely off, ate inside, and restarted it successfully without a jump.
Later that evening, the car refused to start again.
Current symptoms:
“Battery discharged. Start engine” warning
“Increased battery discharge” warning
Occasional “Starter/ignition” warning
Clicking/buzzing when attempting to start
Sometimes the engine cranks normally, sometimes it won’t crank at all
Dashboard lights and electronics still work
Car occasionally starts normally after sitting
Chassis stabilization warning appeared
Clock/date settings were reset
After sitting another 6–7 hours, the car still had intermittent starting problems.
Relevant BimmerLink codes:
420571 – EGS power supply below 6.5V
213A21 – On-board power supply voltage too low
802690 – Gear selector release button stuck
802696 – Gear selector undervoltage
There are multiple additional undervoltage codes across other modules.
I haven’t cleared the fault memory or reset transmission adaptations.
BimmerLink previously reported 97% battery charge, but I haven’t measured actual voltage or had the new battery load-tested.
The battery terminals have anti-corrosion grease applied by the O’Reilly employee who helped install the battery. The connections look secure, but I haven’t verified them electrically.
My questions:
Could a faulty engine ground strap, loose battery connection, or IBS issue cause all these symptoms?
Could the voltage problems explain the unexpected Park engagement at the red light?
Should I investigate the starter/solenoid or battery connections first?
Has anyone experienced something similar after replacing and registering a BMW AGM battery?
What tests would you recommend before I start replacing more parts?
The car is currently parked. I’m trying to avoid throwing money at random parts without properly diagnosing it.
Any advice from BMW owners or technicians would be appreciated. Thank you so much I would really appreciate the help :)

Hi everyone,

I have a 2020 BMW 330e G20, and my rear left door suddenly stopped opening from both inside and outside.

The central locking seems to work fine, and the lock pin goes up and down normally, but the door simply won’t open.

I’ve already purchased a replacement door lock actuator (OEM [51227445053](tel:51227445053)) and plan to install it myself.

However, I’m a bit worried about removing the black plastic panel inside the door, as I’m not sure whether it’s supporting the window mechanism. I’m concerned that removing it might cause the window to drop or damage something.

Has anyone replaced the rear door lock actuator on a G20, particularly with the door stuck shut?

Do I need to secure or remove the window before taking off the black panel? Is there anything I should be careful about?

Any advice, pictures, or videos would be massively appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Hello BMW Tech gurus, can i get ur advice on what could be the cause of the rattling/wobbling sound? Could it be the belt tensioner bearing?

Is it risky to continue driving? Thank youuu

PS Yes ik my coolant leak is bad haha

Hi All,

Anyone have success using Max Sensor (Tire Pressure) on their rigs for winter tire setup? If so, any DIY tips or should I just find a backyard mechanic with programming tool?

TIA!

So i've had this car for about 3 years now, oil change every 4k km (might be a little longer for this most recent upcoming change), and I happened to notice smoke coming out of my engine while stopping at a light. I thought it was something minor so I let it pass and now I noticed it happened again and it smelt like burnt oil. I will be booking an appointment to get this checked out but I was wondering if this is a big problem. Am I going to be fucked? Attached are some images below for where the leak is.

Not sure why I didn’t notice this till now but one of the angel eyes on the passenger side turned yellow in my 2018 M240i haven’t taken it to a mechanic just yet but was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences and what they did after that? I’ve heard it could just be the DRL module needing to be replaced but not completely sure.

Just got myself an F10 with N52 (132k miles/215k km) recently and was really let down of the legendary ZF8.

To begin with, almost every time I engage from P to D or R, the whole car jerks and there's also some distinct clunk sound.

Then when I accelerate from standstill, the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are the furthest from what I would call smooth. Even my ZF6 in E60 525d and at 400k km mileage shifts more smoothly.

But the worst are 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts when stopping. So noticeable and so bad. Again, my old ZF6 is leaps and bounds ahead in low speed downshifts.

Surprisingly, upshifts and downshifts from 3-8 and 8-3 are decent and actually can't complain. It's mostly low speeds and low gears where the the shifts become shitty.

These issues are mostly present when the engine is cold and somewhat subside when the engine really warms up. Somewhat but definitely not completely.

Btw, not sure if worth mentioning but overall shifting speed is really quick, No hesitation or confusion from the gearbox. Just rough shifts at low speeds up to 40 km/h and especially when cold.

I'm also attaching a glimpse of what diagnostics showed today during driving. Maybe some of you might be able to pinpoint the problem.

Regarding transmission fluid, I don't have data or proof that it was ever changed. And don't know the current level and state of the fluid. I mean do my symptoms even remotely line up with old, bad or low level fluid?