Found a lot of conflicting info in this online. Plan on fluid filming my F30 and girlfriends G20 soon before winter now that we park in a warm garage that will rot out our cars. Online seems like most people will just spray over bushings with no care. I don’t plan on spraying them aggressively but they will probably get wet to some extent with overspray and as the oil seeps around over time. Do any of you guys have experience with this and can tell me how careful I need to be with specifically our BMW bushings? Thanks!

My E92 328i has a slightly rough idle, smoke on startup, and occasional hard shifts/kicks. Sometimes around 1,500–2,000 RPM, the car jolts like it’s slipping, but it drives smoothly on the highway. I replaced the MAF and the kicks seemed to improve slightly, but they’re still happening. Codes I’ve had: 2D06, 2A7A, 2D15, 2D27 and 2F08. The only codes I have now is 2E06, an the other codes sometimes come up as not present on my scanner, Could these symptoms all be related to an air-mass/MAF, or does it sound like a separate transmission problem? Has anyone experienced this on an N52? TIA 🙏

The little things are right in front of the headlights, btw.

2010 BMW 6 Series

Posting this so the next person doesn’t lose days like I did.

I was removing the coolant expansion tank on my 330e. When it finally came loose, it slid forward and snapped the thin plastic coolant line right where it meets the quick-connect fitting (circled in the pic). It was one of those “oh no” moments, and I figured I’d just look up the part number and order a new one.

It took me hours to find it over weeks. I ordered the wrong part as well. The usual parts sites and diagrams kept showing me 330i / 328i hoses that didn’t match, because the 330e plug-in hybrid has its own cooling setup for the Turbo auxiliary electric water pump and the transmission (ATF) cooler. After days of searching I finally found the part number buried in an old reddit thread.

Part number: 17128740117 (also written 17 12 8 740 117)

What it is: Engine coolant hose, auxiliary water pump, upper, inlet, from the ATF cooler outlet. It’s a rubber hose with a thin hard plastic line on one end, and that plastic section is what breaks. The plastic line isn’t sold separately, so you have to buy the whole hose assembly.

Fits: BMW 330e / 330e iPerformance, F30 sedan, RWD, automatic, 2.0L B48 (B48A20M0) plug-in hybrid. 2016–2018 [confirm your years].

It was only used on the 330e for about 3 years, which is why it’s so hard to find. Genuine BMW ran me $106.99. Plastic coolant lines can suck it!!!!!

If you’re pulling the expansion tank on a 330e: hold onto the tank as it comes free so it can’t slide forward into this line.

Other names people might search for: 330e broke coolant line removing expansion tank, 330e turbo coolant line, 330e broken coolant quick connect, 330e ATF cooler to aux water pump hose, 330e coolant line near expansion tank, F30 330e expansion tank replacement.

Is there a BimmerCode or tech fix to allow the front or rear cameras to activate on the main screen while in drive/moving ?

2013 535i N55 PWG

i recently just got done doing an ofhg job, next day i drive it i feel like its a little slow. i give it about half throttle and drivetrain malf pops up. no cel either. besides the fact it’s generally sluggish, it doesnt slow down or run rough after the drivetrain malf message. sometimes has a weird idle for a few seconds during startup, but it’s always been that way.

i do a little research and people say the boost solenoid is a common failure. i don’t really know the exact sound of a failing boost solenoid, but i noticed this short hissing sound after i turn off the engine, sorta sounding like it’s from the passenger side. i haven’t done a smoke test yet but im not sure if that’d reveal a failing boost solenoid.

E46 M47Tü. Hey. Is there any way to change the coding data on the instrument cluster so the water gauge shows a true reading instead of a buffered one? A quick look with NCS Expert gave me 0 results. I have a CH341A lying around and I am comfortable with desoldering EEPROMs or On-Board reading. Just wanted to know if anyone did it before me, and what other options I have. Maybe there are other tools needed, maybe it can be done via OBD alone. Any suggestion is welcome.

Hi all,

I need some help, I have looked for this little part everywhere and I cant find what it is. If you know, would you mind telling me?

2026 BMW X3 20

Thank you!

Hi all,

Thanks in advance. Bought in 2012 - I have a 2009 335i convertible E93 with adaptive headlights. I’ve never had any codes with the headlights but I did notice the wiring insulation falling off inside the headlight. I sent the headlights for service to have the harnesses replaced (there are now replacement harnesses available) and to replace the lens.

I plugged them in and I received these two errors. I cleared them from the frm but they still appear.
009CC1 FRM stepping motor SMC left
009CC2 FRM stepping motor SMC right

I ran the component triggering for adaptive headlights in ISTA and the headlights move, so I’m unsure of why stepper motor codes

One thing I haven’t tried is NCS expert to recode the modules. They are the originals and had no issues prior to service.

Sorry for the dusty laptop screen pics, it’s really sunny here. Also sharing the front end. Looks so nice.

Yesterday I was driving my car, then got a knock sensor code, with limp mode. I heard slight hitting when at higher rpms, so i decided to just drive it like normal, and not go high rpm. Then today i was driving and it felt very rough, like it was about to stall. I was sitting at a red light and it did stall, the car turned off. And continued to do this, so i had to hold the gas so it wouldn’t. Then I checked the codes again and got many more. This was after i had cleared the knock sensor code. What could the problems be? Did the knock sensor cause off of these codes? If anyone has any ideas of the issue could I get some tips?

Also could the whining noise be related?

Hello, i have a bmw 630i n52b30, how can I keep track of whether I have enough oil in my car? I had the oil changed and only put in 6 liters, and the navigation showed that the oil level was at MAX. I’m worried that I might need to add more. I should also mention that I have a small oil leak around the oil pan, but it’s not a major one.
I'm worried, the sensor who meassure the oil level can be broken?

Just got myself an F10 with N52 (132k miles/215k km) recently and was really let down of the legendary ZF8.

To begin with, almost every time I engage from P to D or R, the whole car jerks and there's also some distinct clunk sound.

Then when I accelerate from standstill, the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are the furthest from what I would call smooth. Even my ZF6 in E60 525d and at 400k km mileage shifts more smoothly.

But the worst are 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts when stopping. So noticeable and so bad. Again, my old ZF6 is leaps and bounds ahead in low speed downshifts.

Surprisingly, upshifts and downshifts from 3-8 and 8-3 are decent and actually can't complain. It's mostly low speeds and low gears where the the shifts become shitty.

These issues are mostly present when the engine is cold and somewhat subside when the engine really warms up. Somewhat but definitely not completely.

Btw, not sure if worth mentioning but overall shifting speed is really quick, No hesitation or confusion from the gearbox. Just rough shifts at low speeds up to 40 km/h and especially when cold.

I'm also attaching a glimpse of what diagnostics showed today during driving. Maybe some of you might be able to pinpoint the problem.

Regarding transmission fluid, I don't have data or proof that it was ever changed. And don't know the current level and state of the fluid. I mean do my symptoms even remotely line up with old, bad or low level fluid?

You'll need to REALLY listen carefully, and apologies for the parking sensor beeps.

You can just about make out the 2 creaks coming from the front end, one weird sound when coming to a stop, second when I'm completely idle. The noise seems to disappear after having driven it for a short while.

I was told it was the front lower suspension arm, which I've changed and annoyingly the noise is still there!.

It's most noticeable when I'm on/off the breaks in short spells, like queuing at a drivethru...

I'm beginning to think it way be the brakes rather than suspension components?

Any help appreciated.

So i've had this car for about 3 years now, oil change every 4k km (might be a little longer for this most recent upcoming change), and I happened to notice smoke coming out of my engine while stopping at a light. I thought it was something minor so I let it pass and now I noticed it happened again and it smelt like burnt oil. I will be booking an appointment to get this checked out but I was wondering if this is a big problem. Am I going to be fucked? Attached are some images below for where the leak is.

Hey guys, my car seems to be drinking coolant. I’ve topped it up 3 times in the last week with coolant and it just disappears. The car isn’t overheating but my heating/climate control doesn’t seem to be working which I know is coolant related. From what I could tell online a common issue with my model of car isn’t the EGR developing cracks and dripping coolant onto the exhaust which evaporates instantly (this is the best explanation I could find because the coolant isn’t pooling underneath my car onto the ground). There is no recall out for my car that I could find. I’ve been told to stop driving it but it’s my only mode of transport and I need it for work. I bought the car off of a Japanese import dealership in Ireland 3 months ago with 90k kilometers on it. I’ve been driving it since and this is the first issue that has come up. What is going on? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Around less than a year ago I was in an accident involving my 2018 540i XDrive. The vehicle was totaled out, and as of now i'm back in the market for a new BMW.
Going into the market I do know I wanted something faster than the 540i as well as just a slight more edge to the technology.
Recently Ive been looking a lot at the M850i years
2020-2022
I have a rough budget of 45-50k and was looking at getting myself into an M850i with around 50-60k miles.
I know the older N63 generations have not been the greatest engine but I have heard that with proper and early preventative maintenance the newer N63's aren't as troublesome if at all.

Not sure why I didn’t notice this till now but one of the angel eyes on the passenger side turned yellow in my 2018 M240i haven’t taken it to a mechanic just yet but was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences and what they did after that? I’ve heard it could just be the DRL module needing to be replaced but not completely sure.

Can anybody help my identify the part making it rattle and how to sort it?

currently in process of ‘up badging’ does anyone know the screws i need for the air ducts ? the bar it attaches to doesn’t have thread for a screw , would it be some sort of pop rivet? also do i need to remove the crash bar? also if you have any tips or advice dm me thanks

I just bought a used 2019 X3 G01, and the lane departure warning will not vibrate the steering wheel. It does show the green lane recognition icon, and I was able to activate the steering wheel vibration using ISTA+. In the settings, Steering Wheel Vibration is set for Medium and Lane Departure Warn is set to Always. What should I check next? I have ESYS and ISTA+ working if I need to check anything.

Perhaps related, the rain sensing wipers were not working when I got the car, but recalibrating the rain sensor in ISTA+ got them working, though not sure yet how well. The windshield is aftermarket. Thanks!

This morning got a low coolant warning, it was way past the min line. I know my oil housing gasket leaks oil, could my coolant be leaking from the same spot? I watched some replacement videos I feel like I can do it myself as I’ve done some other work on my car. Novice DIY mechanic lol. Any idea if this could be the culprit of where my coolant went? 2012 BMW 528i RWD N20

Hello,When the car is heated and i start it sounds like this
Is normal?

These are the codes i currently have 165015 I had prior to the timing job pretty sure thats a separate error will get to that when I can as it ran fine with that code active before.

I had to replace my vanos gears and retime the motor as my exhaust one decided it didnt want to live anymore.

Upon starting the motor now the idle is very rough like it goes fine half way through the cycle and then rpms jump to the exact point it does every single time and the cycle continues.

There is also a super loud wining noise thats present on throttle so i think it could potentially be a vacuum leak but im not sure why I’d get the 131501 code.

Additionally When you first start the car it will start and then shut off im assuming something goes wrong and gets thrown into fail safe. Then on the second start it stays on but idles rough, thrn the car throws a drivetrain malfunction but doesn’t shut off/stall. Any input is greatly appreciated. Will link a video soon