Up on the mountain in a snow storm. My coworker slid into a drift so I hooked up to pull him out. Took the slack out of the chain and gave it a little gas. BANG, you have been unsubscribed from four wheel drive. Be careful buying a 21-23 F-150 if you live in a location with weather.
Mechanic says the diff suffered a rapid and dramatic disassembly. Apparently, when you suddenly gain traction, instead of using the torque at the wheel to, you know, move… it transfers the torque into the weak diff and 💥, steel and aluminum salad with 90W dressing.

Tillamook state Forrest, trail is firebreak 5.

The base mount on the whip lights cracked clean through on a washboard section that was not even that rough, the plastic housing around the bolt pattern just split and the whip folded over sideways, total failure after maybe four months of weekend trail use

What are trail guys running for base mounts that do not crack, is aluminum the only move or is there a reinforced plastic option that holds up

Took the ol’ turbo Samurai to Holly Oaks ORV park in southeast Michigan for the annual 4Fest event. Joined by a buddy’s TDI 4Runner, and LS swapped wrangler TJ.

Had a great time and looking forward to going back!

As the title says I need help valuing my dad’s truck. If this is the wrong place to ask, would love some help pointing in the right direction.

He passed away recently, still deciding if someone in the family would take it or if we will sell it private party. So maybe trying to figure out 2 prices, one to value it in the family (like wholesale price) and one private party sale.

2014 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road, Double Cab, 4WD, V6, automatic

212k miles, carfax is decent, one minor collision reported in 2016, my dad bought it new in 2014, tons of service records, car is currently in Idaho, could be moved to CA if that makes sense for some reason. Currently runs/drives fine, no service lights on.

Hard to comp it online because it’s modified and clearly beat up a bit.

What do you guys think?

Looking for help identifying and valuing my dad’s custom rock crawler

This was my dad’s build, and I’m trying to figure out exactly what I have before I sell it.

From the photos, I believe I’ve identified some of the major parts, but I’d really appreciate help from people who know these builds better than I do. I know it needs a wash too haha but other than that …

**What I’m specifically trying to figure out:*\*

- Whether the parts/components I’ve identified are correct

- What major parts or modifications I may be missing

- What engine, axles, transmission, transfer case, steering setup, etc. it appears to have

- What a realistic **as-is value** would be for something like this in Arizona

What I believe I’ve identified so far:
\- Vortec engine
\- Custom tube cage/chassis fabrication
\- Interco Super Swamper TSL/SX tires
\- Solid front axle
\- Long-travel front shocks
\- Bilstein rear shocks
\- Rear leaf springs
\- Custom steering/suspension setup
\- Rear fuel cell
\- B&M shifter
\- Custom lighting/electrical
\- Extensive off-road fabrication

I’m happy to take closer photos of anything specific if that would help with identification.

Thanks in advance for any help, corrections, or pricing insight. I really appreciate it.

Buongiorno a tutti

Sono intenzionato a comprare una nuova macchina ma sono molto indeciso fra queste due e volevo qualche consiglio, io abito in un'area rurale che in inverno si riempie spesso di fango e con tante strade bianche,non penso di fare mai fuoristrada duro.

Quale mi consigliate?

Putting a 6.2 liter L92 and a 6l80E into the snow wheeling Patrol I got running on 46" MT's.

Front Range trail obstacle. Was pretty dug out and still a little wet from earlier rain.

I park an older Jeep on a steep driveway. Google says that for 35" tires I need wheel chocks at least 8.75" tall. My tires are a little under 12 inches wide. I am having difficulty finding large enough wheel chocks.

This is probably a question best answered by the oldheads. I have an old Saginaw style hydraulic power steering pump and steering box in my truck. I don't enjoy how the factory settings on the pump valving are just a little too stiff that turning 35" tires at flex requires more effort than I'd like. I believe the factory setting is for increased road feel and stiffness at high speeds, and these power steering pumps are fairly generic applications for trucks and classic American sports cars, but this is not a sports car.

I bored out the high pressure fitting with a drill bit for more flow, it helped marginally. I have seen forum posts where some forum Bubba talks about removing the shims (the copper shims in the photo) to increase pressure, shimming the small spring inside for even more pressure, or stretching the big exterior spring for more pressure but I'm not sure what each mod does specifically and at what point I'd run the risk of blowing seals on my pump and steering box. My DOM tube steering linkage should be able to take the abuse, Im just not sure about the rest.

Is it the jeep wrangler? Land Cruiser? 4Runner? Patrol safari? Land rover discovery? Bronco? Blazer?

Personally think of a 1995 Land Rover Discovery a y61 Nissan patrol safari, or 70 or 80 series Land Cruiser.

I'm starting a project on a Toyota BJ40, and I'm looking for advice before I spend money on the wrong things.

The vehicle:

• Year: 1989
• Engine: 3B diesel
• Condition: enging is fine denting and painting work needs
• Current mods: stock

What I want it for:
Weekend trails / overlanding and long trips / rock crawling / mostly a restored daily driver that can handle off-road

My rough budget: slow n steady i will not do it fast beacause i want to things very clearfully

What I'm thinking about so far:

• Rust repair and body work first, then mechanical stuff
• Suspension upgrade (leaf springs, shocks, and a modest lift)
• Tires in the 31 to 33 inch range
• Brake and steering upgrades for safety
• Possibly a power steering conversion

What I'd like to ask:

1. What would you do first on a 40 series, and what can wait?
2. Is it worth keeping the original diesel, or should I look at an engine swap? If I swap, what's the most reliable choice?
3. Which suspension setups have worked well for you? I'd rather avoid anything that ruins the on-road ride.
4. Are lockers or a gearing change worth it for a build like this?
5. What are the common problem spots I should check before buying parts (frame, floors, axles, cooling)?
6. Any trusted parts suppliers, or ones to avoid?

I'm happy to take advice from people who’ve already made the mistakes. If you have photos of your own 40 series build, please share, because they're a big help for ideas.

Thanks in advance!

For context I want to get into overlanding not hardcore crawling meaning I want a capable rig for the weekend but could also be a daily during the week. I am mechanically inclined and would be able to wrench on the vehicle. I would be going with my wife and two kids so something not too small or large.

I found a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero XLS (215k) and a 2007 Nissan Pathfinder (205k) both being $3k for sale in my area. Both have some cosmetic damage but nothing serious. My questions is for my Use case which would you buy?

I’m looking at two 4x4s:

• 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ: ~$4,500 USD
• 2nd-gen Toyota 4Runner with a 5.3L V8 swap: ~$7,500 USD

Both would be weekend vehicles for some off-roading, not daily drivers.

I’m also pretty new to cars and want to start learning how to work on them myself.

is that a terrible idea for someone with little mechanical experience?

Edit: i know the xj has some poorly modded things (Mismatched tires, missing flare and black paint overspray) but the car is well mantained, only one owner. and the interior is pristine. i was able to lower the asking price to 3.8k, so i think im gonna go with it, thanks everyone for their help.

I just love this 4x4 from all points of view. Thoughts on this bad boy?

Not a 4x4 post but close!

I'm narrowing down my next tires for my 2025 Outback Wilderness (225/65R17) and am torn between the Yokohama Geolandar A/T4 G018 (SL) and Falken Wildpeak A/T4W (XL).

My use case is 95% highway, 5% genuine (light) off-roading: beaches full of driftwood, rutted two-tracks, forest trails, etc. No rock crawling. I have full underbody skid plates and frequently explore fairly remote trails, so durability and puncture resistance matter.

My dilemma:

• G018: ~29 lb. Seems like an excellent balance of on-road refinement and off-road capability. Evolution of the stock G015s that came on by OBW.
• AT4W: ~35 lb, heavier XL construction, aggressive tread, and a stellar reputation among off-roaders. Possibly tougher and better off-road, but at the cost of weight, ride quality, and potentially MPG.

Question: Has anyone compared these directly? Is the AT4W noticeably tougher or more capable off-road? And how much on-road comfort, noise, and efficiency am I sacrificing?

The 4x4 light is not showing up on the instrument cluster but low range light is

Leaving an event with some equipment and heavy concrete blocks, two tractors struggling until this guy showed up

Tilting the stiff driver side floor tray to clear the pedals dumps half the loose creek gravel straight over the plastic door sill. The tall perimeter lip holds standing mud fine while driving, but trying to squeeze that rigid molded edge past the steering column creates a funnel that empties right into the door frame gap. A buddy running trails in the same area pointed out 3W as a possible replacement with slightly more flexible sidewalls. I still cannot tell if softer edges would just collapse when you lift twenty pounds of wet sand out of the footwell.

Hi guys, I'm thinking of buying some TT tires for my Pajero.

It would have to be at least 33 and that it would not be necessary to remove the tabs or make cutouts.

To what extent can I put it taking into account these aspects?

Can I keep the original rims or should I buy others?

They cannot rub against the fenders or the bodywork

*It's slightly up

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