Old lady crashed into my car and it’s now totaled, this car is a bad luck charm 🕊️ (don’t mind the ugly bumper)

Recently did a clutch kit, flywheel, billet slave, oem master cylinder, I can not get the clutch to bleed, I have tried gravity bleeding, pressure bleeding, the pump method and still will only return half way. If I delete the clutch dampener and make it a straight line all the way through will that help?

i have a 2004 350z and while i’m driving it keeps shutting off it happened like 5 times in a row yesterday i think it’s the cam sensors and crank sensor because i’ve never replaced them yet im going to this weekend hopefully it fixes the car shutting off randomly, but this red light above my dash stayed on solid red while driving is that normal?

Hey I just got my car back from the auto shop today for the second time same issue my gas gauge is not reading full i have sent it one to the shop the replaced the sending and fuel units and got it back read 3/4 so I sent it back got it back today same thing I think it is just a pinched wire but idk any thoughts

I am replacing the clutch in my 07 350z 6 speed with the z1 drag pack clutch and want to do the CSC while I’m there what are you guys recommend to replace the csc with? Already have the clutch
Yes I am already doing the rear main seal too

Picked up this car a few months ago (03 de) and finally got around to fixing the clutch. The previous owner said it has a z1 clutch kit in it and he put a new master and slave. I replaced the clutch hard lines and delay valve with a steel braided line.

Spent an hour just bleeding it last night and finally got clear fluid no bubbles coming out. Pedal feels good, slave has this much travel. Barely goes into gear only after I pump the pedal a few times. No leaks. I’ve adjusted the master cyl rod that connects to the pedal to no avail. I know these can be difficult when it comes to bleeding the clutch but, what am I missing here?

MANUFACTUER: ガレージ4413
VENDOR: ADOPT Motorsports
MSRP: $770 USD
-10%: $700
PURCHASE LINK: HERE

running a $70 discount on these for the first five orders.

these are by far the most in demand part in Garage4413's catalog. Yoshihisha-san developed the bracket to remove what he feels is excessive deflection in the front knuckle hub mounts, especially under heavy braking and cornering loads. this also helps mitigate hub/bearing lifetime issues by reducing total deflection of the wheel side mount.

made from a chunk of billet 6061, these bolt onto the knuckle's rear side and are compatible with aftermarket brake calipers (such as mine).

Garage4413 parts are pricey, but everything he makes has been proven in time attack and endurance racing in some of the hardest conditions Z33 still race in.

An old lady went through a yellow yield light and didn’t see me and i tried to swerve but i could not fully in time and the front of her car scraped along the side of mine pretty bad . only 80k miles

Looking for this wing or any info on it that would help me track one down.

I have a blue 2004 350z with 115k miles …… 6 speed …. All stock ….. I just spent 700 dollars to replace the spark plugs and the radiator and the intake and the coils ……… it has a plastic bra on it from when I bought it 14 years ago …… and needs work done on the hood and trunk due to clear coat fading off …… it’s in good condition outside of this …… what would it be worth ? I still drive it once a week just because I love the 6 speed feel, but I don’t want to put the money or work into getting it fixed and being what it should be

I’ve heard from many in this community that the VQ35DE is bulletproof and I didn’t know the extent to which that was true until I realize my car has been running a 3 inch cold air intake, headers, HFC, and Stillen dual exhaust for years without a tune. I had recently gotten a tune and the car was running over 30% lean. I’ve driven this car pretty hard prior to the tune and I’m honestly surprised it’s survived the beating I put on it. I got this car when I was 18 before I realized the important of on time oil changes so I will admit I was neglectful on them. Did it every like 6k miles☠️

How this engine is still running perfectly is beyond me🤣

Ripping engine apart (new to me car) lots of grime build up on pass side of engine, all over top and around alternator and side of engine and drips to the ground. Ripping apart due to head gasket. Guy didn’t tighten hardly anything let alone torquing, so could be that lol.

Not sure yet what’s causing it for sure yet but curious if anyone else has had something similar to get a better idea. As I’m digging into it when I have time.

TIA

Did someone have a problem with the coolant of the Z and it’s exploded everywhere after driving a bit and the gauge in the car didn’t show any like high temperature it just started to rise really fast as soon as the
the car was in neutral and standing still. Whole engine is covered with coolant but the coolant reservoir is still full!?!? Did someone have a similar experience?

now carrying Garage4413, who've raced Z33 for almost 20 years in circuit and endurance series, like IDLER's Z-Expert one make championship.

by far the highest spec parts for the Z33 in any circuit context.

ADOPT is the only importer of Garage4413 products in the US.

their knuckle reinforcement bracket improves turn-in and reduces pad knockback, by preventing distortion of the upright during full braking or under heavy cornering loads.

Hello everyone, this is for the ones with an ls swap 350.

After a long time of planning to get around to it, ive decided that soon ill be buying all the stuff to do the LS3 engine swap I've wanted to do for years now. I don't have a ton of experience, but I have done some involved repairs on vehicles before. Never anything of this scale though.

I have an 03 350z, so im ordering a cd009 transmission, a 2012 LS3 out of a corvette, and I think I might go with the sikky stage 3 conversion kit.

I have my dad who has a ton of tools, and decades of mechanical experience, but he will mostly be lending me tools, or talking to me over the phone, and a friend who says he knows how, and wants to be there helping me, but idk how much he really knows.

I guess my question is does anyone have any tips? Things I should look out for, or things maybe you wish you knew/considered before jumping into doing the swap? I decided to do it myself as a challenge, and a way to save like 8 grand on a mechanic doing it for me, lol.

Or what kit it’s off of?

I’m at the age where insurance isn’t too much of an issue, just need to save a bit more up been wanting a 350z for years now

what are major/common issues to look out for in early and later gens.?

what gen should i look for?

maintenance prices?

best place to buy? Do I import or shall I look in UK markets.

best import sites? (I’ve been looking at carsfromjapan but heard there’s better places)

Thanks for your time!

I want to get a koyorad cause my stock radiator is busted and leaking coolant, should I Upgrade hoses aand maybe fans also wondering if I need anything else to upgrade cause z1 was saying autos need integrated internal transmission cooler for another $400

Hey y’all, which spoiler is this one? Looking for something of this style for my 08’.

Obs: pic is from and old Reddit post by @DecimatorX_X - https://www.reddit.com/r/350z/s/vPfhnIoDKk

Hi all, I'm hoping someone can offer some advice on diagnosing an issue with my 350Z.

I've owned the car for almost two years and have never had any issues with the coolant level. It's always remained at the MAX mark in the expansion tank.

Timeline:

One week ago: I had an Invidia Gemini exhaust fitted, along with two new front drop links.

The following day: I went for a drive and noticed a new, sweet smell. After looking into it, I found that this could be the smell of coolant getting hot or burning. However, I'd also read that new exhausts can produce a smell as factory oils and coatings burn off, so I wasn't sure what to make of it.

Over the following few days: I occasionally noticed the sweet smell, although it gradually became much less noticeable and has now almost disappeared.

Two days ago: I checked the expansion tank and noticed that the coolant level had dropped from MAX to roughly halfway between MAX and MIN. Oil looks normal on dipstick (did an oil change 200 miles ago, prior to this issue). No milky residue on oil cap. Coolant looks clean. Granted, the issue is fairly new.

I've driven approximately 50 miles since the work was carried out, although I'd need to confirm the exact mileage.

My main worry:

The drop in coolant level has me worried that there's a leak somewhere. My biggest concern is a potential head gasket failure, although I'm not sure whether the symptoms point towards that. There is a release of white gas form the exhaust which starts about 10 seconds after start-up, and it goes away in 15-30 seconds. Noting that temperatures outside right now are about 12°C. My 350z has always released some visible exhaust gases at times, especially in the cold, and has never had coolant issues prior.

What's puzzling me is the timing. The coolant level had always been stable, and the sweet smell and coolant loss only appeared immediately after the exhaust and drop links were fitted. It could be a freak coincidence though.

Could anything have been disturbed or damaged during this work that might explain the symptoms, or is the timing likely to be coincidental?

I've bought a block/head gasket leak tester to check for signs of a leak into the coolant system. I have put the video here.

I initially tried using it at the expansion tank, but it didn't seem to work properly, as no bubbles were passing through the test fluid. I then tried using it at the radiator cap instead.

To do this, I removed some coolant to create an air gap for the tester. However, I haven't managed to run the test for very long (maybe 30 seconds) before the coolant level rises and enters the tester. Negative result so far, but I doubt my method has been good enough for an accurate test (and I understand false negatives are very possible). A more accurate test would be compression testing each cylinder.

My understanding is that the coolant rises as the system heats up and builds pressure, but I'm unsure how much coolant I should remove to carry out the test correctly.

- Am I using the block tester correctly on the 350Z?

- Is it normal for the coolant to rise into the tester over time due to the coolant naturally rising due to pressure building, or am I doing something wrong?

- Should I remove more coolant to create a larger air gap, or is there a better way to carry out the test?

- Are there any other checks you'd recommend before assuming the head gasket is the problem?

Any advice on the likely causes or the best way to narrow this down would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I thought it might have been suspension bushes but the play seems to be up higher than this u joint up towards the steering wheel. What should I check next?

I found a FB marketplace listing for a 350z and I want to work on one as i learn the car. Listing says it comes with another VQ35DE aswell. I added the post and some messages, any advice is appreciated 🙏🏾