Hey guys new to the TDI game but not new to VW. I recently purchased a 14 Jetta TDI for exterior and interior parts for my 11 Jetta 2.5. After getting the car it’s too clean to part out and we are wanting another car.

The person I purchased it from had bought it off a friend with the plan to send straight to the scrapper after taking the dpf off. I ended up buying it before he sent it to the crusher. The OG owner had told this person that it had a runaway and blew the motor.

Now I have not crawled under this car or anything. I have opened the hood to hook jump box to lock it, only glaring thing I notice is the glow plugs are missing. It as far as I can tell has not been deleted. DPF is actually there, I don’t think he knew what was the dpf and what was the cat 🤦‍♂️

My questions I guess are:
1) where should I start looking for engine damage. I know gas cars but just bought my fist TDI a couple months back so still new.
2) why remove the glow plugs? Borescope?
3) since it doesn’t appear to be deleted and the anti shutter is still there, shouldn’t the computer recognize a runaway and axe the air flow using that?

I knew runaways would happen on older diesels (I grew up in a farm and family that had a tractor repair shop) but I hadn’t heard of them on new vehicles that have a valve in the intake tract. Sorry like I said new to TDIs. I know basic of how diesels work but it’s new territory for me.

First picture: while installing my 11mm injection pump, I was using a pick tool to seat the belt. It slipped and grazed the surface, enough to make the line seen on the belt. It’s still smooth, no fraying, and it is fully tightened. There’s about 40k miles on the belt, so it needs changing in a year or so. Should I change the belt, or will it be okay?

Second picture: while installing my 11mm injection pump, I didn’t want to take off the valve cover to set that cam tool in the vacuum pump. I did set it to be horizontal though. I made marks, as seen, and the 3rd from the left is/was aligned with the mark on the timing belt cover. Will she be okay or should I just do a timing belt job?

TLDR: should I do a timing belt job and start fresh?

Thanks in advance

Edit: I appreciate all the comments telling me I’m stupid. I know. I already have all the timing tools (like cam holder, injection pump bar thing, and camshaft rotator) but I was just being lazy and trying to save money (seeming as I need to replace the valve cover when I remove it due to the gasket). I’ll be performing a full timing job very shortly. if anyone has recommendations for kits to purchase, lmk

2011 JSW DSG

Context: The engine is an 1.6 TDI, it had the timing chain recplacement about 10k km ago, and i hear this ticking noise, idk if its normal, it usually happens on cold starts, should I be worried about anything?

I recently changed the injector pump body o-ring, now I have fuel leaking out of the lowest outlet. I pulled it out changed the crush washer and even swapped the fitting with another and it still leaks?

We have Golf TDI. About a month ago the Airbag light came on with a message that there was a fault and the passenger airbag was disabled. Had this diagnosed as needing a new control unit at a cost £1250. Anybody had this fault before and if so how reliable do you think the diagnosis is and is the cost in the right ball park? Thanks in adavance

So my 2013 vw passat tdi squeaks when the ac is on, but doesnt when ac is off. I had a new compressor installed like 2 months prior to this happening. And after it started i installed a new belt and belt tensioner and the noise continues. Im at 162K miles, and to add it stops sometimes after driving for a bit or turning ac back off and then on again. Please help me out this noise is very annoying 💔😭

Edit: If I blast my ac its less loud.

I’ve recently bought a 09 Jetta JSW and it currently has codes for NOx emissions exceeded accompanied by regen while driving (RPMs rise to 1,000 at idle). It does have 151k miles, unknown previous history but carfax shows regular maintenance (i.e.: oil changes, battery changes, recalls including dieselgate recalls)

Anyways, point is that I’ve come to a crossroads to either replace the DPF or just delete it. I live in a states with no emissions inspections/testing. So I have to ask this group if anyone has successfully gutted a DPF and paired it with a delete tune?

EDIT: I am a welder and have no issues cutting open, removing inner media, and re-welding it. Just wanted others’ take on this.

I performed an oil change at around 126,000 miles in May, after which the high oil light activated. I adjusted the oil to the standard level. A month later, I had the timing belt, water pump, oil belt, and related components replaced. At that time, I believed I had only driven about 2,000 to 3,000 miles since the oil change. Subsequently, I experienced a melted DPS following the timing belt replacement. I sent the vehicle to VW for repairs, which also included the phase 2 fix, and left VW with 129,000 miles in August. After driving approximately 1,000 miles, I received a notification indicating it was time for an oil change. At that point, I had only driven about 5,000 miles on this particular batch of oil. I am confused about why the timer for the 10,000-mile or one-year interval lost 5,000 miles. I should have 5000 more miles on my oil life

Hi everyone,

I have a 2023 VW Polo AW1 1.0 TSI petrol (DSG) with approximately 83,000 km.

I'm experiencing a cold-start issue where the engine cranks for 5 seconds before starting. When the engine is warm, it starts much faster.

What I've found so far:

\- VCDS previously detected P00C6 – Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low During Engine Cranking.

\- Replaced the battery with a new one, but the cold-start issue has returned (the old battery was in a bad shape anyway)

\- I can hear the low-pressure fuel pump priming.

\- I've been logging fuel rail pressure using VCDS, particularly during cold starts.

\- The issue is mainly present after the car has been sitting overnight.

I'm currently investigating whether the problem could be caused by fuel pressure bleeding off overnight, a faulty check valve, a leaking injector, the low-pressure fuel pump, or the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).

Has anyone experienced something similar with the EA211 1.0 TSI engine?

Which VCDS measurements or diagnostic tests would you recommend to narrow down the cause before replacing parts?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2023 VW Polo AW1 1.0 TSI petrol (DSG) with approximately 83,000 km.

I'm experiencing a cold-start issue where the engine cranks for 5 seconds before starting. When the engine is warm, it starts much faster.

What I've found so far:

\- VCDS previously detected P00C6 – Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low During Engine Cranking.

\- Replaced the battery with a new one, but the cold-start issue has returned (the old battery was in a bad shape anyway)

\- I can hear the low-pressure fuel pump priming.

\- I've been logging fuel rail pressure using VCDS, particularly during cold starts.

\- The issue is mainly present after the car has been sitting overnight.

I'm currently investigating whether the problem could be caused by fuel pressure bleeding off overnight, a faulty check valve, a leaking injector, the low-pressure fuel pump, or the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP).

Has anyone experienced something similar with the EA211 1.0 TSI engine?

Which VCDS measurements or diagnostic tests would you recommend to narrow down the cause before replacing parts?

Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, I have a Seat Leon 1.9 TDI ARL with 150 horsepower. I have an injector correction of +2.99 on cylinder one, and replacing the injector did not change this value. The engine runs more smoothly now, and the compression test showed 28, 28, 25 and 29 bar. I suspect a possible wiring problem or an ECU software issue because before I bought the car it had ECU tune with 140kw and launch control, which has been removed to factory tune by sellers friend but idk if done correctly. I also think the dual-mass flywheel could be involved because it can cause engine vibrations that might affect the injector correction readings. I would like to find the real cause before making any further repairs. Any advice please?

Im going to remove dpf, should I get a 63 or 76mm downpipe?

New to me ALH. 03. 212k miles. Cranks little longer than it should. Smokes at startup, and smokes at idle when hot too. Maybe a slight studder at idle too. Runs great has plenty of power.

I do see the return line to the pump, the felt is wet, assuming diesel. See steady flow of air bubbles in the clear line from the filter. Have new return lines, filter and T on the way. Puffing smoke from the oil fill and the disptick. Tube. Catch can has very little oil in it.

Injection timing bounces around a little bit.

Vnt17 turbo and some light mods. Guessing 40k miles or so on them

What also should I be checking. My first alh, have BEWs otherwise

Thanks

i have currently deleted my passat and im having codes P0641, P0544, P0104 Ive tuned it and let it run for a bit and the car is still in limp mode everything works but has no power i only took off the DPF diff temp and pressure sensor as i saw on a video on youtube ive cleared the codes once and they just keep on popping up.

Hey everyone, I just removed the DPF from my 2010 Audi A3 CBEA. I’m located in Vermont (US). Would y’all recommend I sell it on FB or go through one of those DPF buy-back sites?

Before I removed the DPF, soot level was on one (VCDS) scan 13 and another 10. Oil ash level was 217 (pretty high ig)…

Random background info:

I still have over boost issues 💔— p0234. Bought the car for $3k. No records of maintenance. Car was bought for son by dad. Parents divorced. Son didn’t like car anymore. (Ex) wife sold the car. She had no idea what diesel meant—joking about that, but sums up her knowledge of the car’s history.

I’ve put 6,000 miles on it over the year.

What all do I need to do to get a little more power. Already have it deleted and tuned wondering if I need a disaster kit. Also have been looking at a lml fuel metering valve. My wagon has 90k miles on it.

Something comfortable and good on gas

Salut a tous , sur l'audi a3 d'un amis , il y a une perte de liquide de refroidissement sans fuite apparente ! Collecteur d'échappement , refroidisseur egr ainsi que le radiateur habitacle on ete changer , test co2 / mise sous pression OK

Des idées d'autres éléments a controler ?

Kicking around the idea of selling one of my tdi’s. Its a 2015 silver s trim. Dsg transmission just rolled 140k. Still has emissions in tact. Whats it realistically worth? If it aint worth much then I’ll drive it for the next 30 years. Haha

I have a leak on my tdi and it gets worse the longer it’s running like a steady stream i’m not 100% sure but i think i fixed my priming issue but it could also still be there but i reattached the engine bay fuel filter after putting a new one in and i think that fixed it since before it wouldn’t idle for 30 minutes now it will i’ve also had a hell of a time useing a dolly and a 14 ft diamond plate that could’ve also hit any lines or fuel cooler in the area i just want to know if anyone’s had a leak from this area and if it’s what i’m thinking or coming from the engine bay

Owned a 15 golf tdi that was totaled , I’m now currently about to purchase a 14’ A7 TDI. The amount of people who’ve never owned a German telling me “ watch out they fall apart after 100 k “. Or just talking about how expensive they are to repair. I mean they are expensive but the more I’ve learned about German cars it seems they’re just designed to actually have their maintenance schedules respected and most Americans are very lazy with that. People will go 20k miles between oil changes then blame Audi or vw when their engine is toast. Just needed to vent almost it’s kinda bugging me telling people I’m getting an A7 and dudes who’ve never even driven a German car trying to tell me what to look out for lmao.

I recently put in a PD130 intake manifold. Made this new silicone elbow from the intercooler piping to the race pipe with a 55-50mm reducer elbow, 50mm coupler and underneath an aluminium sleeve clamped down with 3 clamps. A new expansion tank since the old was yellow, put a new coolant flange in it since the old failed, vacuum pump gasket and new fuel lines going to the fuel filter and to the mechanical pump.