Finally have the rifle to proceed with load development, I waiting on my 203 grain hammer hunter tippeds to get here as an alternative to the 212 lrx. Gonna pick up 1 more powder probably but my local selection is thin so I gotta figure that out soon. Ignore all the parts on the ground im building a 5.3 Chevy too and my reloading room has turned into a storage room for the time being. The rifle has exceeded my expectations so far handling it, the fit and finish is awesome, the trigger is insanely crisp, I got a new fortis scope mount to replace the rings on there currently the scope itself is an Athlon cronus 4.5-29x gen2 and I also have a brake for the suppressor if recoil ends up being an issue. I really dig the color and pattern I requested these colors and a chunky camouflage pattern and they totally delivered. The mcmillan elr hunter stock feels excellent although I kinda wish I would have waited for the rok stok because I like the negative comb. I will be trying to do a complete review when I have loads developed for it and can confirm its accuracy. Shout out unknown munitions and suppressors they knocked it out of the park on this custom tikka. The loads im developing first will be

1. 212 grain lrx bore rider

2. 203 grain hammer hunter tipped

3. 215 grain berger hybrid

4. 178 grain absolute hammer

5. Maybe a bonded bullet like accubond lr or terminal ascent.

I want to get the DAA Plate and Wedge but cant afford it right now. My current wedge is kinda weird? I seen the video on adjusting the wedge but for some reason my wedge has a lip on the top that sites ontop of the case feeder? So it doesnt go up and down.

Was wondering if ANYONE has ever made an STL to 3D print the DAA wedge or the one that supposedly should be on the case feeder?

I got this Dillon 650XL Used and missing parts and stuff, cobbling it all together had to warranty a couple pieces and buy a bunch of others. So Im in pretty deep on the cost of it and parts and dies. Would appreciate if anyone could give me a hand on an STL or if someone could scan theirs.

Hodgdon doesn't have 300 blackout listed as a cartridge that could be used with titegroup, but they have many others including 308, 223, and 30-06.

This load data may help others who need a reference for their own development. These rounds used new starline brass, a cci 400 primer, 190 grain hornady sub x bullet, 5.7 grains of titegroup, 2 thousandths neck tension, 1.350" case length and a coal of 2.055". Primers looked good and cases extracted easily.

Gun used was a ruger american ranch gen 2 with a dead air wolfman.

3.9 grains Unique, Missouri Cowboy #6 (I've heard guys run up to 5.5 grains - way beyond the books)

Range day coming up on Saturday if the weather doesn't turn to chit..
Five powders, three bullets for the .32-20 Blackie, two bullets, five powders for da' turdy-turdy rife-el.

So ive been fairly frustrated with brass recently, not liking barnes, military is meh, and only a handful of Peterson cases, so im looking at buying some new 308 cases mainly by Alpha munitions, I am also thinking about buying SRP as well since I will be buying a 223 and it would be nice to keep the lrp saved for my more oddball stuff, my question is, will I have a bad experience due to my firing pin striking not perfectly centered on the shown LRP cases?

I just bought a Hornady lock n load used and was wondering has anyone tried reloading 338 Lapua magnum with it? I emailed hornady and they said they can build a custom shell plate for it but has anyone here actually done it? Was it an issue?

I am trying to find the best place I can buy mixed spent range brass for good prices. I tried calling a few ranges near me and they don’t sell the brass or allow you to pick it up, so wondering where I can go to get a good deal on bulk.

I’ve got a 308 bolt gun that I’ve been loading for and the brass I’ve been using has probably 6-8 firings on it. I’m plan on cycling it out just for peace of mind. I ended up with 200 rounds of 7.62x51 Federal 149gr. I know 308 and 7.62 cases have small dimension and wall thickness difference. However, for practical plinking purposes would I have any issues? I’m middle of the road on charge weight with CFE223 and loading 165gr SSTs.

Figured since reviving .455 Webley Manstopper went so well, I’d give a Manstopper round loaded into a .45ACP case a whirl (dubbed “45 AutoStopper” in my load data log book). Instead of Unique, I’ve reverted to 3.5gn of win231 (since all my home-data for Webley safe 45ACP has gone reasonably well with 231) and simply switched out the usual 230gn LRN for a 230gn manstopper, with an OAL of 1.20 (seated depth of 0.2 is identical however). Unlike the 455 manstopper I haven’t fired this one yet, but I’ll surely post the results when I do!

Also, since I missed it in the last post, obligatory photo of my two 455/45acp revolvers, a MAS 1873 from 1875, and a Webley MK1 circa 1890.

New AR with a suppressor and i've got dents from the brass defector! Safe to reload? I don't have a tunable gas block, it's an A2 sight post and gas block. Running an Odin works FRT buffer system.

I got just installed my new Lee classic turret press, and already I'm having indexing issues

The auto indexing only works sometimes. I know the most common issue for auto index failure is the square ratchet piece being worn down... but brand new, really? I opened up the clamp and inspected the ratchet, and it still looks square, and when I move the square up and down the rod it still turns. Is it slipping inside the clamp? I tried tightening the clamp down more but it also still "slips." It just looks like the ratchet piece isn't catching the rod. I'm hoping there's some other trouble shooting I haven't found from googling to try before giving up and buying another new ratchet piece (for my new press).

https://reddit.com/link/1x68yrv/video/pye5fw08ajvh1/player

And another dumb mistake that I figured out myself... I bought the breech lock die set instead of the regular set, so now I have to wait for regular lock rings to come in. Figure I'd throw this in here so someone else doesn't make the same mistake.

Is this too much crimp? I pulled this bullet for an unrelated reason. Just wondering what you all think in terms of how much crimp to apply to .223. Its a 68 grain hornady BTHP in case it matters.

Figured these would be a great way to stay out of my GMAR primers for non-precision loads

gonna run ammo inc brass from raven rocks, I am using cci SPP magnum. hornady 158 XTP bullet

I plan on starting at 15.5 gr and working up to the 16.7 grain max listed on hodgdon’s site in .3 grain increments.

should I be more cautious with the load work up? I have an old hornady book and it lists a max of 15.8 for H110 and 16.4 for 296

I have been using 2400 powder using hornady‘s data and #9 powder with hodgdon data, and haven’t had any issues with pressure at the max charges in this gun, a CZ/colt python with 8 inch barrel. I have access to a chronograph

looking for input from others that use this powder.

Anyone have a good accurate load in this combo? Yes I know there are better powders. Want to use what I got.

I was gifted a bunch of reloading supplies from the person who got me into reloading. This one struck me as odd. I can’t find any info on a Lyman bullet in this diameter and grain weight. I know it’s labeled 38 special, but from what I’ve read that diameter is too small. I know 9mm is this same diameter, but I’ve never seen a 150gr. I also have ready that a SWC wouldn’t feed reliably and could have pressure issues in a typical 9mm semi auto. Could it be that he mislabeled it? I’ve seen 38 super with these weights but I know he doesn’t own one. I haven’t checked the diameter or weight myself but I was curious if anybody had some thoughts.

Same bullets, but different gun, when oit of the Dan Wesson they get these and I had a missing primer in 2 of the cases, but in Glock I have none of these signs.

Fps is 1250-1300 with 200gr bullets

WARNING: do this at your own risk, as this is a round that was meant for antique pistols.

After a lot of tricks, including using a virtual ruler to map out rough seating depth next to a 262g Webley LRN (pictured), I believe I came up with reasonably safe load data for the 455 Webley Manstopper.

Data is: 230gn Hollow Base .455 Manstopper cast with MP-MOLDS Manstopper 4 cavity mold, pure lead, Eastwood jet black powder coat, sized to .451, 3.5gn of Unique, OAL 1.13, seated depth 0.20, Fiocchi Webley mk2 brass with federal small pistol primer. Tested in a MAS 1873 4.5” barrel from 1875.

As far as shooting, felt pretty much the same recoil and power wise as a regular 455 slightly downloaded handload. No damage to the firearm and no seeming signs of overpressure. The action did bind a couple of times, but as you can see in the last two photos, it’s seems more to be because the longer firing pin on the 1873 and the soft federal primer caused it to slump. For reference, it does this on large pistol primers too, but with the larger surface area they almost never slump out like this and cause a cycling issue.

Interestingly (to me at least), you can see the circular head of the manstopper left a small black circle on entry

I was wondering anyone had use the breech lock bullet sizer for jacketed bullets. I have a Remington model 14 in 32 Remington and was hoping to use it to resize .323 bullets to .321. Has anyone hand any luck with the breech lock sizer on jacketed bullets? Thanks!

Peregrine 124gr VLR4 vs Sierra 130gr TGK. Y'all know bullets better than anyone in here so I chose this sub. Even though it's more hunting related... but you have to reload to hunt!

The warehouse where I work got new bins and they are disposing of all of the old trays they used for parts

Been making some Martini Henry Casings out of 24 gauge. Ended up making 25 of them and crushing a fair bit more. These few are just sort of folded in but ever so slightly and they seat. Anyone think it could still work? I have no issue chopping them to Snyder rounds if not.

As the title says my pace setter die set won’t allow me to just remove the expander ball and retain decapping. I plan on expanding with a mandrel for consistency but I also don’t really want add a separate step for decapping