NAO dumplog: https://archive.alt.org/dumplog/searchCommand/1790434659.nh500.txt
This was on 9/26, but figured I'd post it in case people are interested.
This is my longest game so far. I had full moon luck, plus I got lucky early on with quadruple bones on D:6. But, it was still slow-going. I pressed 's' a lot. Didn't get the mines luckstone until turn 46k. Finished the quest at 98k, entered Gehennom for the first time after 100k.
I was unlucky with thrones; I couldn't get any identification, so I didn't know the B/U/C of anything except my starting items and the Orb. And I didn't get any genocides either.
I would say this is the most brutal endgame I've ever had. Somehow I thought I'd be able to search for the planes' portals with the Orb of Fate, and it didn't occur to me until very late that "Too bad you can't see The Orb of Fate." So it was just my wand of secret door detection, which is fine except on the plane of earth. I had to rely on the Amulet. I got a double trouble summoning storm early on, and my PYEC got stolen. Eventually I ran out of digging wands, and I had opted not to bring a pick axe to stay unburdened. By then I knew where the portal must be, but I couldn't get to it. I had to backtrack and search for the PYEC to charge a wand of digging. I ended up spending over 1000 turns there.
After that the rest of the planes weren't bad, but I had gotten my bag of holding un-blessed without realizing it. It only made me Burdened, not Stressed, so I figured it was just the Orb being heavy. Luckily I tried re-blessing everything so I got unencumbered before Astral.
I'm definitely grateful for the 5.0 mind flayer nerf; I would 100% have lost on the planes otherwise.
I visited all three altars on Astral, but I got pretty lucky with the riders, so I can't complain. :) I'm happy about this one.