The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!

[u/AutoModerator]

The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.

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You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.

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If you haven't, check out our local wiki and the "New to the hobby" thread, which might be of help to you!

[u/theoxfordtailor]

Anyone have experience with the Italeri F-15C? Specifically this one.

I've never built an Italeri kit. Oddly enough, I cannot find this kit on Scalemates anywhere either.

Edit Actually, it looks like it might be the same as this kit. Looks like the same decals are included and the model number is only off by a digit.

[u/ubersoldat13 → u/theoxfordtailor]

I found a FineScale Modeler Review of the kit that you could look at. Not that specific boxing, but the tooling seems to be the same.

Seems like it has really crisp panel line detail, but sucky cockpit and engine nozzle detail.

And it wouldn't be italeri without some fit issues with the fuselage.

[u/theoxfordtailor → u/ubersoldat13]

Thanks. Sounds like one to skip.

[u/rolfrbdk → u/theoxfordtailor]

Yeah I'll chime in and say it's not a good kit. Neither is the Tamiya 1/48 F-15C for that matter, but it does have some advantages over the Italeri one in my opinion like the cockpit segment not being a comically hard to attach separate part. So if you're looking in the cheaper kits of the scale I'd take the Tamiya but be ready for some filling, sanding and re-scribing work

[u/theoxfordtailor → u/rolfrbdk]

Honestly, I'm more interested in the decals. I'm trying to get a Desert Storm 58th TFS Eagle done. Hasegawa has discontinued kit that has it but the decals were old and brittle, plus the fit was awful. Great Wall makes a great F-15 but not the markings.

Bullseye made an awesome set of Desert Storm decals specifically for Cs but it's out of print and I can't find any secondhand.

The hunt goes on. Thanks for your help!

[u/Antoine_Doinel_21]

Is it okay to prime coat the model with the grey primer from Vallejo and make a base coat with XF-63 German-Grau? I've seen people use oxide red primer for the early German vehicles, but I doubt I want to buy it solely because of one model

[u/dr_robonator → u/Antoine_Doinel_21]

It's personal preference. If you are planning hairspray chipping effects, a red oxide undercoat is worthwhile, but otherwise you can use any color primer you want.

[u/ostrichfin → u/Antoine_Doinel_21]

i will say this much, ime, oxide red primer or tamiya's pink primer makes a notable difference - it augments the color (particularly for greens) without being bright/vibrant under a white primer. i've started with grey primer, and it is still perfect for finding imperfections like shrinkage, but as a final primer, I've moved to either pink, red oxide or black (whichever is still available).

tldr; you might never go back to grey once you've tried oxide red primer.

[u/Thi_Tran]

Just got this ft17 printed and about to start painting for the first time. Any recommendations on using brush or airbrush which paint and what are the steps. Newbie here so would need some help

[u/dr_robonator → u/Thi_Tran]

You have decided to start out with a pretty severe handicap my friend. Trying to paint the kind of camo seen on those tanks is challenging enough, but you are going to attempt it while the entire model is fully assembled while being a complete novice.

brush or airbrush

What do you have access to? If you have an airbrush and can confidently use it, you'll achieve a better finish than with brushes. If you don't have an airbrush, then brush. Get a variety of artist's brushes from a craft store, don't use those shitty white ones with black bristles sold in Testor's/Revell/Airfix starter kits. Wide flat brushes for large areas, sharp pointy ones for details.

which paint

This comes down to preference and application technique. Most brush painters swear by water based acrylic paints from Vallejo, AK Interactive, or Ammo ATOM. Some people who have a wargaming background use Citadel paints or Army Painter. All modern water based acrylics perform about the same so the choice is down to preference or color selection or availability. If you just absolutely love a challenge (sorry that will never not be funny) you can opt for brush painting enamels from Humbrol or Revell, but these paints are mostly for holdovers from 30 years ago when acrylics weren't as consistent. If you airbrush you can open up the types of paint to include true lacquers and acrylic lacquers. These paints must be thinned with a dedicated lacquer thinner unlike water based paints which can be thinned with, you guessed it, water. Lacquers have a strong odor and can release harmful particles known as VOCs when atomized through an airbrush so ventilation or breathing PPE is recommended. Acrylic lacquers from Tamiya have brush painting applications with proper technique, but this isn't recommended for beginners.

what are the steps.

1. Prime the model with a dedicated surface primer. This will achieve two goals: show you surface imperfections which you can fill and sand, and provide a solid base for your paint to adhere to. Some people try to brush paint directly onto plastic and claim to have success doing so, but those folks have to work extra hard for that while literally gaining nothing. Always prime your models.

2. Apply paint. Depending one what kind of camouflage scheme you are trying to achieve, this could be a single color or merely the base color from which you will layer on additional colors. It helps to work from reference images so you know what you are supposed to do instead of winging it. Thin your paint with the appropriate thinner. You should aim for a milk like consistency. This is applicable both for brush and airbrushes. You will get better at judging thinness as you gain experience, but don't be afraid to go too thin and then need to thicken it back up. If you go on too thin you can add more paint. If you go on too thick you must remove the paint chemically (with thinner) or mechanically (by sanding/scraping).

3. Varnish the model. Get a matte varnish that is compatible with your paint. If you blast lacquer varnish over acrylic paint that hasn't had time to cure you may melt your paint. Varnishes protect the paint, seal the underlying layers, and knock down any shininess that detracts from the overall look. If you were building a store bought kit that came with decals I'd also recommend a gloss varnish for applying decals, but for now you don't need to worry about that.

Those are the very basics, but the best recommendation I can give is to look up how to do everything I told you so you can see it in action. In YouTube, add "scale model" into searches including the words "tutorial" "beginner" "paint" "how-to"...etc.

[u/Thi_Tran → u/dr_robonator]

Thanks alot for the suggestion, what type of primer should i use for the 3d prints. Since I know that the plastic on 3d prints are harder for paint to stick and the seams lines stacked on a typical non resin 3d prints can be an issue

[u/dr_robonator → u/Thi_Tran]

The best recommendation I can give is to look up how to do everything I told you so you can see it in action. In YouTube, add "scale model" into searches including the words "tutorial" "beginner" "primer" "how-to"...etc. 

You should take questions related to FDM printing artifacts to r/3dprinting. 

[u/JustAMalcontent]

This might not be exactly what this thread is for, but does anyone know why there's a shortage of Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner? I don't know how far it extends, but I can't find any in western Canada.

[u/dr_robonator → u/JustAMalcontent]

https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/airbrush-cleaner-by-tamiya-87089/

It'll be available at Sunward, at least, EoY, probably the same in a lot of places. 

[u/JustAMalcontent → u/dr_robonator]

Yes, but why is there a shortage?

[u/dr_robonator → u/JustAMalcontent]

I'm unsure if you follow the news or not, but there is a bit of a dust up happening around a key water way for oil shipping. Oil sort of makes the world go around and so some products that need to be shipped in from across the sea are not being shipped as frequently.

[u/Char_Aznable0079]

How difficult would it be to go from gunpla to military models?

[u/dr_robonator → u/Char_Aznable0079]

Besides snipping plastic parts from sprues, it's an entirely different hobby (but more challenging and therefore, I think, more fun)

Get the Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog and some Tamiya Extra Thin. If you hate it, you're out less than $25.

[u/Antoine_Doinel_21]

Currently building my first tank model in 1/35 - Tamiya Pzkpfw I Ausf. B. What is the standard procedure regarding assembling and painting wheels? The manual advises to paint it before assembly. On the other hand, I still want to prime whole hull before painting the base camo coat.

Should I assembly the wheels, paint them and then attach to primed and coated hull? I am little bit lost after making planes models only.

[u/dr_robonator → u/Antoine_Doinel_21]

You can build and paint the wheels before you ever snip a single hull part off the sprue. Set them aside and built and paint the hull. You don't need the wheels (or turret or ancillary equipment) mounted on the model to build and paint the hull.