My belt grinder unfortunately is not variable speed… I use water misting to keep my knife cool but it’s hard getting my knives right down to 0.2-0.4 mm thick at the edge without burning…

What are your thoughts on whether a course diamond file would be like to thin the blade down that last bit before hand sanding?

The handle is desert iron wood

Anybody have a good place to order a spring fuller from? One that goes in the hardy hole and yeah I know make one or build my own but as of right now I don’t have the most amount of time and the free time that I do have I want to be practicing and getting better. I have looked some and haven’t had the best luck finding one that goes in the hardie hole

Here’s a look at a knife I made from gcarta, trustone, Juma, and g10 spacers. Steel is AEBL. OAL is 6.8” and edge is 2.8”

Doing some testing before I finish up my last bit of hand sanding

Hand forged 288 layer 1095/15n20 damascus blade. Fatcarbon handle scales.

Here’s a pair from like 6-7 years ago , Damascus blade with ivory handle and a matching neck knife.

A little WIP from our Noblie workshop. We usually make 5–6 test engravings to dial in the settings and get the colors right before moving on to the actual knife parts. The tricky part is making sure all the colors, contrast, and small details work well together. What looks good on one test doesn't always look right in the full design. Still experimenting with this one.

Love how this baby came out. Gold Sheen is just the best… it’s smooth and predictable… at least this one was! A combination of English and American walnut compliments it perfectly!

I am supposed to make a knife with black Metal bolsters and desert Iron Wood.
Now I have somewhat of an idea how i‘d go about doing that.
Put the bolsters on, peen them on with pins and darken them with ferric chloride.
Now there are some things I am not sure about, since i never put bolsters on a knife before:

Is it gonna Show if the pin Material is slightly different to the bolsters?

Should I shape them with the Rest of the handle and darken them then or does the ferric chloride eat away at the wood?

Should I use non stainless Steel because it darkens better or is the risk too high that it might rust (Blade is from semi stainless vanadis 4e)?

I appreciate any answers and other tips about putting bolsters on a knife.

Swayback Jack slipjoint

Bakers forge cumai blade, 1084 spring, Titanium liners, copper bolsters and shield with black paper micarta scales.

Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think.

**books are open**

Have a knife day

Always wanted my own Esee Junglas or something similar.

But could never afford one, so I'm making my own.

SUP9 leaf spring steal from a 2016 Triton Ute.

Was going to use orange G10 pins but changed my mind to bolts for the added strength

Anyone using the Shop Fox 12” disc sander?
Just picked this up for a pretty good deal on Marketplace! I’m hoping to use it primarily for segmented handles, tapering tangs, and flattening scales.
A variable-speed disc grinder is definitely on my wish list, but I’m hoping this will be a useful alternative in the meantime.
Anyone have one in their shop? Curious how well it performs, especially when it comes to getting the table dialed in to a precise 90° for segmented handle work.
Would love to hear your experiences!

52100 with black palm, ebony and nickel silver

One of my latest knives, made from an old leaf spring, with blue/black g10 and brass pins.

I’m looking at making some pocket clips using spring wire. Any advice on which size diameter wire to use. And which metal alloy works best. Most of the wire I see is stainless steel.

Made a puukko handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop thinking it would look cool. To my shock and surprise it looks if someone would throw together a handle from different types of leftover woodbits from the workshop. Should i just accept its uniqueness or could I stain it perhaps? Would the glue "layers" show up if I stained it?