Just threw these in today. was getting tired of maintaining stock carpet, so I wanted something super easy to clean. being able to just wipe or hose off whatever gets tracked in is a game changer.

for those who’ve run these long-term, how are they holding up?

Still had the original plugs.They didn't look that bad but definitely needed to be changed @95k.

The first one was absolutely saturated in oil.

I'm new to these 2.5 L engines. The rest of the plugs were dry as a bone. Any insight on what that could be? Car ran absolutely amazing the whole time without issues

How do I replace the rear differential on a 2001 ford escape

I bought a car in Toronto Canada a month ago from a ford dealer. The car fax reported 75000 kms and 1 rear end collision which was repaired under 2000$. The dealership took 1 month to give me the car after not taking the title properly from the previous owner; I’m not sure how. I also noticed on the car fax the previous owner took it into a dealer for a vibration when turning; the salesman told me yes it was from tires not being balanced. Don’t worry.

When I got the car, it had white stains all over the dash board. I used armour-all and it came out, my parents were a bit disappointed. The previous owners banking information was there still as well. I started hearing a clunking noise and that vibration when turning. I took the car back and they took off my licence plate cover and said nothing was found sorry. The rehashed and cleaned the car however.

It happened again and louder than before so a went back and asked for a senior tech. The said the drive train has an issue and needs to be replaced in the rear, and the from control arm was gone. They will be covering it all. I got lucky because when I pulled into the service garage, the car made a loud screech and banging noise as well; they all heard it and looked. They couldn’t deny there was an issue.

I have a disability and need to uber now because no car to get to my treatment. Should I ask the dealer for some sort of compensation? I don’t think this was fair. What would be reasonable to ask for or to accept from them if I were to get something? Thank you.

So my 2017 is at the end of her life. She got the coolant intrusion, which is temporary fixed with sealant but hasn't leaked anymore coolant. Now it sounds like I got some lifter noise. Any idea how long I can prolong it? I don't think she will make it through winter but I'm going to try. 2.0L with 214,000 miles.

I posted on here before and was hoping it was the battery but Can somebody please tell me what’s wrong 😭 my car been down for two weeks i honestly was just hoping it was the battery but I replaced the battery, and the lights came back on but when I tried to start it I heard one click. The dashboard lights stay on but my AC and power windows won’t work and the engine won’t turn over. I have had issues with the positive battery cable before. Could it be the cable, a bad ground, or the starter? Has anyone experienced this? I’m trying to figure it out without wasting more money on parts. Any advice is appreciated!

Currently I have a 2018 ford escape SEL 1.5L

Trying to do any work on it myself has been such a headache, and my partner and I are looking to upgrade our vehicle. We live in Nunavut so we got very little choice on what vehicles we can get (fords are the most common vehicles we can buy)

Would it be worth getting the 2026 escape? 2026 bronco? What is best for basically 6 months of cold temperatures lol

Assuming the initial mechanical checklist is squared away (fluids, filters, checking for coolant/boost leaks, etc.), I’m trying to plan out the first round of quality-of-life updates.

Every used car comes with a bit of mystery wear from the previous owner, and I’m debating where money is best spent first between cargo management, tint, and interior protection. The factory carpet in the footwells and trunk area seems prone to picking up ground-in dirt fast, especially through wet commutes or hauling gear.

For long-term Escape owners:

Did you stick with factory all-weather mats or upgrade to full molded liners (WeatherTech, Smartliner, 3W, etc.) for better sidewall coverage?

What was the first non-mechanical upgrade or accessory you added that was actually worth every penny?

Previously the Air bag warning light, Overdrive on and right indicator light all around fuel gauge would illuminate on initial key turn in ignition. I recently removed the dashboard trim, Radio / 6 stack cd to access the instrument panel lights (Narva p/n 47287 BL 12v 1.7W T6.5 mm Wedge) to replace bulbs as they had over time, all failed.

Since putting the dash cluster back in and connecting back up, the right side warning lights and the Right indicator arrow around the fuel gauge no longer illuminate. Note: at the same time I also replaced all other T5 bulbs that appear to be for the warning lights and indicator arrows at the same time. (Narva p/n 47286BL 12v 1.2w T-5mm dash) since then all warning lights around the fuel gauge on RHS of dash cluster are not illuminating on initial ignition key turn.

Any thoughts on what may be causing this? All assistance will be appreciated.