So my 2017 is at the end of her life. She got the coolant intrusion, which is temporary fixed with sealant but hasn't leaked anymore coolant. Now it sounds like I got some lifter noise. Any idea how long I can prolong it? I don't think she will make it through winter but I'm going to try. 2.0L with 214,000 miles.

I posted on here before and was hoping it was the battery but Can somebody please tell me what’s wrong 😭 my car been down for two weeks i honestly was just hoping it was the battery but I replaced the battery, and the lights came back on but when I tried to start it I heard one click. The dashboard lights stay on but my AC and power windows won’t work and the engine won’t turn over. I have had issues with the positive battery cable before. Could it be the cable, a bad ground, or the starter? Has anyone experienced this? I’m trying to figure it out without wasting more money on parts. Any advice is appreciated!

Currently I have a 2018 ford escape SEL 1.5L

Trying to do any work on it myself has been such a headache, and my partner and I are looking to upgrade our vehicle. We live in Nunavut so we got very little choice on what vehicles we can get (fords are the most common vehicles we can buy)

Would it be worth getting the 2026 escape? 2026 bronco? What is best for basically 6 months of cold temperatures lol

Assuming the initial mechanical checklist is squared away (fluids, filters, checking for coolant/boost leaks, etc.), I’m trying to plan out the first round of quality-of-life updates.

Every used car comes with a bit of mystery wear from the previous owner, and I’m debating where money is best spent first between cargo management, tint, and interior protection. The factory carpet in the footwells and trunk area seems prone to picking up ground-in dirt fast, especially through wet commutes or hauling gear.

For long-term Escape owners:

Did you stick with factory all-weather mats or upgrade to full molded liners (WeatherTech, Smartliner, 3W, etc.) for better sidewall coverage?

What was the first non-mechanical upgrade or accessory you added that was actually worth every penny?

Still had the original plugs.They didn't look that bad but definitely needed to be changed @95k.

The first one was absolutely saturated in oil.

I'm new to these 2.5 L engines. The rest of the plugs were dry as a bone. Any insight on what that could be? Car ran absolutely amazing the whole time without issues

How do I replace the rear differential on a 2001 ford escape

Just threw these in today. was getting tired of maintaining stock carpet, so I wanted something super easy to clean. being able to just wipe or hose off whatever gets tracked in is a game changer.

for those who’ve run these long-term, how are they holding up?

Previously the Air bag warning light, Overdrive on and right indicator light all around fuel gauge would illuminate on initial key turn in ignition. I recently removed the dashboard trim, Radio / 6 stack cd to access the instrument panel lights (Narva p/n 47287 BL 12v 1.7W T6.5 mm Wedge) to replace bulbs as they had over time, all failed.

Since putting the dash cluster back in and connecting back up, the right side warning lights and the Right indicator arrow around the fuel gauge no longer illuminate. Note: at the same time I also replaced all other T5 bulbs that appear to be for the warning lights and indicator arrows at the same time. (Narva p/n 47286BL 12v 1.2w T-5mm dash) since then all warning lights around the fuel gauge on RHS of dash cluster are not illuminating on initial ignition key turn.

Any thoughts on what may be causing this? All assistance will be appreciated.

Hello I’m new to the page and was wondering I have my 2014 ford escape 1.6 EB and wondered what mods everyone does to these cars so it’s not a boring compact suv. TIA

I am planning to buy a second hand car
I came across 2017 Ford Escape SE

Car details:
price: 13244 cad plus tax
milage: 67096km
Front Wheel Drive

6 Gears

4 Cylinders

how does this offer sound?

hey guys - got a 2017 escape with the automatic 6f35. has fluid changed (one pan’s worth) last week, noticed the car started slipping on highway speeds, 4/5 gear, i accelerate and it revs up to 3k rpm before it actually starts accelerating. the vehicle has a brand new long block installed 1k miles ago by ford (old had coolant intrusion)

any ideas on what could be happening here? 60k mileage

Hi, I’ve posted here before and recently got my 2010 Ford Escape inspected with a routine oil change.
I live in Michigan and have had this car for a year, was told I might have another year with it but there’s so much rust it might not make the winter after this.
I love the second generation Ford Escapes very much, they’re extremely reliable and amazing cars, but I’m worried about consistent rust issues, especially with living in Michigan.
Should I get another second generation Ford Escape or start looking into other cars?

EDIT - Added pictures of the mechanic’s findings during my inspection in the comments. Like stated, he said I have this winter and should probably start looking for another car before next.

I have a 2017 Escape with 48,500 miles diagnosed with coolant intrusion. The dealer service department says a new engine installed will be $14,000, but the car with a good engine is worth no more than $8000. It runs fine now, but I will not sell it without revealing the issue. Can anyone recommend how to sell this car? Do I go straight to a junkyard or is a car with a bad engine something that sells on Craigslist or Facebook?

Has anyone done this? I have a 2011 ford escape that used to be a daily and now sits around as we have new vehicles. It has a rebuilt title and is not worth much, however it’s in great shape and very comfortable, so i want to turn it into my weekend off-road vehicle that i can mess around on the trails with. However with it being AWD it lacks true 4wd, lockers, low gear, etc so is it even worth the time is my question. My thoughts are moderate tight trails, not rock crawling.

Has anyone built their escape into an off-roader? If so, how does it perform? What size tires/lift? Any input is helpful, thanks!

For the last few months, I have had a problem where, every once in a while, the gas pump shuts off before it is done. I normally could fix it by just restarting it, but the problem has gotten worse. Now I get about 0.9 gallons before it shuts off, and then it shuts off within 5 seconds of restarting. If you try to hold the hand down manually, the gas pours back up and out of the gas cap.

I've tried putting it in upside down, venting it, letting it run to empty, and then refilling it. I've also tried opening and closing the flap a bunch to break up any dirt or debris that may have been stuck. I have an appointment today to get it looked at. I've been driving on empty, filling a gallon or two at a time to try and keep myself moving.

Before I take it in, are there any obvious fixes that I'm missing?

Thanks for any insight!

152k miles

Just bought a 2008 escape FWD from marketplace for 500$ (mechanic special) to replace for some parts on my 2011 but it’s super clean and I’m thinking about just replacing the transmission. Has anyone replaced the transmission on one of these without removing the engine?

Love my hybrid SEL. Coming from a 2016 CX-5 the slippery drive mode powers the rear axle a ton, making snow driving a ton of fun!

My only complaint is the lack of LED headlights. I wish ford would’ve made them standard and not trim-locked them to Titanium, like our fraternal triplets Bronco Sport and Maverick.

Hi all,

Have a 2017 Escape with 130k miles and started to feel the dreaded shutter recently while driving on the highway. Drove it into Ford the next day and the tech confirmed it was a failed torque converter and the recommendation was a full transmission replacement. I knew from the get-go I was not draining money into fixing it, but was trying to get by as long as possible with this Escape before upgrading.

Hoping I could get some solutions on any other possible ‘cheaper’ fixes or recommendations that others have done with the same issue. Just trying to squeeze a little more time out of it before making the jump to a new vehicle.

Appreciate any advice or feedback on the situation.

Hello, I've been having trouble with getting my 2009 Ford Escape XLT (Hilda) to start. Let me give you some context: The problem originally started a few months ago. Hilda just wouldn't start. Fuel pump engages, all lights come on, key turns to the on position just fine, but no ignition. We've already replaced the PATS sensor, and whatever that part is on the left side of the steering column that pushes out a little piece of plastic when the key is in the ignition (I can't remember the name of it for the life of me), and after both repairs, Hilda ran fine. We also replaced the battery because we accidentally left the lights on. Hilda started failing again, and we took her to Autozone to check the battery, starter, and alternator. All came back fine, and Hilda ran for another week or so. Same thing happened the other night while my husband was at work, and we managed to start her and get her home but she hasn't started again since. I touched the alternator the next day to see if it was warm compared to everything else in the engine bay, and it wasn't. My brother reminded me to check the fuses, and I did and found that the delayed accessory relay was warm to the touch comparitively to the rest of the fuse box. I replaced that relay, and it still was warm (if not warmer). Does anyone have any answers to what this could mean? I'm not car savvy in any capacity, and have been relying on my dad and brothers to guide me. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Title, increasingly obnoxious rattle when idling and below 1k RPM. Above that range the noise goes away, sounds and runs fine. No codes. We previously replaced the transmission after flex plate blew up around 100k. Currently has 140k.