My brother has run out of energy and money on his 67. I was going to help him with restoration since he knows a lot more than I do about it, but he is giving up. Unfortunately I let him park it in my driveway when he lost his storage. He lives in a townhouse. I am trying to decide whether to buy it from him and find a shop to get it drivable. 289 V8. Block is still in car but top end is off and in pieces. Auto transmission in unknown condition. He has owned it for 35 years and drove it for 10 but it has been stored for 25 years until last year. Driver side pan is rusted.. Some surface rust. Interior needs to be redone.

The question - I can afford to sink money into the car but I can't do the work myself. I don't know enough and I am in my 80's. My guess is that our best bet is to sell it to someone who will do the work because paying someone else is an uneconomical bet. Opinions?

The car is NOT THE numbers matching garage queen I thought i was getting.

So im going to have fun with it.

Had a buddy try something different and I love how it came out

So tried something different, thrilled with the results!

Removed both leaf springs at once because as usual not a single video I watched mentioned anything about doing one side at a time until AFTER I did it.

The pumpkin has been supported by a jack the whole time but it did roll slightly forward on the pad and at one point I did press down lightly on the driver side wheel by accident.

Other than making installation of the new springs harder for no reason, is there anything I could have potentially misaligned or need to check before I walk away?

TL/DR: i found a grey 67 fastback, unknown trim, unknown condition, and someone more resourceful than me deserves to restore it.

I don't know how hard these things are to find but i found one so i figured i should share for anyone interested.

I was looking at potential properties and came across this one. Both the property and the house, itself, were clearly once incredibly beautiful but they are now a bit of a wreck and need A LOT of work; was told the house came with everything on the property, including everything in the house (even the previous owners clothes, vhs collection, frozen ground beef in the freezer, EVERYTHING); i wasn't able to get any kind of story but i imagine it's pretty grim and probably involved a "wellness check". At any rate, there was a 67 mustang fastback under a tarp in the garage and i was told it came with the property.

If someone wants it, they might be able track down the property owner and make an offer but i don't know how one would even begin that process.... or i guess they could buy the house for the car, but that feels pretty silly.... anyway, it's on zillow; there are no images of the car (or even the inside of the garage) on the listing and i'm sorry to say i didn't have the presence of mind at the time to snap a pic. happy hunting!

https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/2461-Garden-St-Avon-NY-14414/30807362_zpid/

67 Mustang 1” lower front coil spring install.

Long story short I’m building a 390FE with 4 mounting holes for mounts, came out of 70 f100, I really want my dream mustang but all I can find are 289 mustangs, is it possible to to swap it into a 289 mustang? If so how would I go about motor mounts, I have a c6 trans that was with the engine, just needs a rebuild.

Stumbled upon this and was wandering if any of you have information about it.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1JZdG4NVw6/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Stripped it today. Hopefully will be mostly done by the new year. Have to have it finish by February however. Been a long, hard, weekend..

I’m looking for ideas for a battery kill switch that I can run to the underside of the dash. I see a lot of options for on or near the battery, but I’d like this to be accessible without lifting the hood.
Both for security and for battery preservation while it sits for a while.
Thanks

1965 Fastback. Painless performance new wiring harness was recently installed by a mechanic, probably about 90% done. Car is running great. Now I’m working on some finishing touches to the electrical.
I’m trying to sort out some interior lighting.
Door lights. Pictures are what I have.
Looks like original lights, with male/female bullet connections. The wiring kit has two wires labeled for door lights, with male bullet ends (pictured). There are no button switches on the doors, which I need to get. Then I imagine there’s some sort of rubber protective sleeve for between the frame and the door.
Can anyone walk me through how to wire these up and what I’ll need?
I’m also doing the glovebox light. Am I correct that the light is actually not in the glove box, but just shines through the hole? Looks like a kit with everything prebuilt is available. Any advice on this one as well would be appreciated.
Clearly, I’m a hack that has no idea what he’s doing, but I have time and I don’t give up easily.
Thanks for any advice!

Almost learned the hard way on how dangerous a single bowl master cylinder is. Had a wheel cylinder fail and drain all my brake fluid. Luckily I drive slow and I could tell pretty quick that the brake pedal was going down further than before. Swapped to a dual bowl. Man it was a pain since the old brake line wanted to strip even when using flare wrenches.

Just a few shots of some of the Mustangs at the Loyalty car club Hot Rod show in Middletown, NJ. Nice show about 175 cars.

Alright folks, I have a head scratcher. Getting my 351 all put together, and the PS pump pulley is not even remotely in line with the water pump pulley. Any ideas what’s going on before I go buy a new pump?

Looking for some help on bleeding these brakes. Recently completed a two year full drive train rebuild on this 65 mustang, and the only keeping me from driving are these brakes. I have done everything I can possibly think of, but I can get no pressure built at the pedal. Below are the specs along with everything I’ve tried.

Specs:
- 4 disc brake
- Power brakes (7-8” booster manufacturer unknown)
- New Summit GM style master cylinder - SUM-760100-BLK (same style of master cylinder that was already installed)
- Quick Performance 9” rear end with their bolt on disc brake/caliper kit. (Spring loaded emergency brakes)

Things I’ve done:
- Bench bleed the master cylinder upwards of five times
- Tried pneumatic and manual bleeding
- Checked push rod length
- Adjusting the rear calipers per manufacturer instructions (set piston/pads using emergency brake lever on calipers)

I have plugged both ports of the master cylinder and was able to build pressure just fine. Had about 2” of pedal travel per 1/2” of push rod travel (4:1 ratio). I recently kept the front brake port plugged and tried to dial in the rear brakes. Zero bubbles on the fluid but still no pressure. Can’t find a single leak anywhere.

Any help would be appreciated!!

I’ve found two 67 mustangs I’m close to purchasing

67 yellow for $19k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good
-body is pretty good as well - maybe small blemishes (was garage kept for over a decade) here and there
-a/c
-front disc brakes
-no power steering
-289

67 blue for $12.5k
-frame rail/floor pans/cowl are all good (seller selling due to health reasons)
-doors have some perforated rust, same with trunk, and some bubbling
-power steering
-drums all around
-no a/c
-engine runs well, was inspected

My goals:
I’m a beginner wrencher looking for my first project. I’m not trying to have a show car, more of a learning platform to get my hands dirty, have fun, learn a lot, and keep a car going for life. Not resell. And keep this car on the road.

The heart wants the blue but the brain says the yellow is the smarter choice. I feel like the blue will take more immediate, up front work but still a short drive, weekend cruiser while the yellow is more turn key and quicker to get road trip ready.

Any thoughts or feedback welcome. Happy to answer any follow up questions. Thanks✌🏼

Edit: both are 289 v8

These guys are selling a (sort of) frame, that will use a dynacorn body as part of the frame (making it sort of a unibody). It seems cheaper than full on frames....was looking for some thoughts on it.

https://totalcostinvolved.com/product/1964-1970-mustang-suspension-stage-packages

Aftermarket cam
Headers and exhaust
Holley 600 cfm carb
MSD distributor

What we've done:
Set #1 to TDC and installed the distributor.
Adjusted the distributor position, rotating counterclockwise (advance) while trying to get it running.
Used a timing light to set initial timing to 12° BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
Symptoms:
Originally: backfiring.
Now: rough idle to no start.
When shifted into drive, it nearly cuts off.

Anyone have experience with timing adjustments with a 302 with aftermarket parts like this? I grabbed an msd advanced kit that will come in the mail soon, but unsure if that will solve the issue.

i have an early 65 mustang (built in october 64 but technically a 65) so it has NO chassis stiffening. i was going to do a strut tower brace to help things out but now that i have a mustang ii front there are no mare strut towers. what do i do

65 coupe, I had all my bows sandblasted and powder coated but didn’t notice this until I went to install it.

All 3 other bows look fine

I have a 1967 mustang with single piston front disc brakes. The guy who had the car before me put in spindles from a 70-73 mustang like the ones pictured above. I want to upgrade to the 4-piston calipers for better stopping but I’m under the impression I’d have to buy new spindles and caliper brackets to fit the calipers pictured above. I’m wondering if there are any caliper bracket adapters that will bolt on to the 70-73 spindles that will work with the 4-piston brakes. I think I may have found one above however I figured I’d get second opinions or advice on how to proceed before I buy whole new spindles and brackets